Leaderboard

It’s a pity this isn’t smellivision as the wild garlic smelt amazing.

Not surprised, given the "service" history. It happens. There is no mention of anything more than "inspection" or "interval" services in the history. Why would you think there was more work done? Are VAG dampers made of chocolate these days!? Forget going to a Skoda main stealer for the alignment. Go somewhere with a Hunter rig and a proper reputation for using it right. Well, unless the stealer offers to do it for free.

Colourful end to the day this evening............

Some positive movement. Kate has been helpful. Tyres to be sorted by Kwikfit (🤢) tomorrow and we have reached an agreement to reimburse me for getting the servicing up to date. Oil, filter, Diff oil and brake fluid. I have already done the air and pollen filters. light at the end of the tunnel.

Like the colour, pity I couldn't specify all leather seats.

Look at the background photo of this. I believe that is without doubt the new Superb estate I also believe the white estate beside it is also the new Passat estate.

It's important to remember that it is illegal to even touch a mobile phone in the UK if the engine is running in your car. Also, FM reception (RDS TMC) is more reliable than 4G/5G especially in areas of poor mobile coverage.... in those places you are more likely to need a reliable working satnav system. And there is no cost with RDS TMC FM. No data usage, no phone battery usage, no need to pair phone to car.

I have had a response from Skoda customer services directing me to the digital team covering Skoda Connect which advised further that if they could not help, then to contact my local dealership. Having already had no success through my local dealership, I have gone back to customer services to suggest they should be able to communicate how this was going to be resolved and that I was unclear how the team responsible for Skoda Connect could help as it wasn't an issue to do with Skoda Connect (I do not subscribe) There was no recognition that this is a widespread problem and quite frankly the initial response was very disappointing when clearly they DO know that this is not an isolated problem. I am awaiting a further reply from customer services.

Thanks, Mac Yeah I was just having a play to see what I could capture. Pleased with it as a first ever attempt! I'm seriously considering a a proper DSLR now so as my budget doesn't run into the 000s I'm currently looking at a Canon EOS 250D. I tried a couple more last night with just an 8 second shutter speed. It's not a shooting star - just a plane I never initially spotted I think I need to experiment a bit more on the shutter speed to find a compromise between how much light I capture and how much the earth's rotation effects it with getting 'trails'.

It's probably showing how to remove all 3 trim pieces.

@claire83 No idea why any claim under warranty. The Skoda Approved Dealership that put a Skoda Approved Warranty on a Skoda Approved Used car sold a car not Serviced to the Manufacturers Recommendations, Guidelines, Specification or Schedule. They are the ones that should be paying for the car to have the Servicing done.

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back. The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay. The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area. The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear. To fit: you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess. Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe. The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe. Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards. Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force. Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo). You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up. Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it. The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out. As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum! Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later. The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard. Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from. Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay. Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together. Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click). Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe. Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness). Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing. That's the job done. Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything. From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

Hi All. Over the past week or two in my L&K 70, android auto has started flashing up a sign telling me that the Handsfree Phone HFP has disconnected. It happens regularly, as in every 10 seconds to 20 seconds. It's pretty annoying as it covers the top 3rd of the map. There's no update waiting. Phone (S22 ultra) is up to date. Tried turning Bluetooth off on the car and the phone, phone forces it back on, car asks for it to be back on at next start up. Happens wired or wireless. I'm baffled. I know the skoda entertainment software is flakey at best but this is v annoying and I can't find a fix/workaround. Oh, I've had the recall software update which fixed the sos issue too, but that was done months ago. Any ideas on how to sort the HFP thing?

If you want to have the taillights on it's a straightforward tweak with Carista (and probably OBDeleven as well, though I don't have that so I can't be sure). And you can choose the brightness level. I don't really understand why the taillights aren't on at the same time as the front DRLs by default - it seems like a much more sensible (and safe) arrangement. Why would you not have something that makes you easier to see? If I had a tenner for every car I'd seen tootling along in the gloaming with nothing but the front DRLs on, I'd probably have quite a lot of tenners. .

If all you want to do is scan for fault codes, then just buy a compatible one and download the appropriate app. But if you want to scan for faults and tweak things then OBD11 is the cheapest route otherwise you'll be looking at a laptop and VCDS which is serious kit. Just be warned that you may get accused of tinkering by your dealership if you do something wrong, like I was.

Thanks, no not behind seats, have spoken to dealer & they are getting on f.o.c for me

Yes my experience of multiplate oil bath clutches are that they can dissipate a tremendous amount of heat and cope with loads of abuse. My Blackbird engined Caterhams had the standard Honda motorcycle clutch and were fine in the much heavier vehicle, until you put fully synthetic engine oil in then they slip like bu33ery, the friction modifiers played havoc, I stuck with Castrol Superbike oil.

@Seasider Thats pretty much verbatim what I got back from Škoda too, I agree the ‘essentials’ moniker seems to cheapen it a little even though the functionality is unchanged.

6 sort of thing might well be for England. Well if many places even get that or any charging hubs. Trunk Roads & Motorways and all roads are what matters & there are no Motorways north of Perth. This 'UK' stuff is just what confuses. As it is there are 4 countries making up the UK and each of these countries will need many many more hubs and 4 or 5 chargers will be as much as many get including ones planned by Councils around Scotland and i will guess in England, Wales or Northern Ireland.. Ground Breaking. & what can well be expected. Pathetic to be honest when not being spun by SWARCO. Not enough Rapids obviously and only 2 miles from Charge Place Scotlands HQ' which is being run by SWARCO you own e-Volt.

Problems solved so far.

Even 35k of 'riding' a dsg clutch wouldnt wear it to that point due to the oil cooling features on the clutch packs preventing them from overheating and disintegrating from heat. They also have temperature sensors where if the clutch gets too hot it simply disengages it until its cooled down and only allows the other gearset to work. Chances are it was incorrectly shimmed and caused excessive pressure on the friction material and has worn the clutch out that way. Or possibly inferior parts.

There is now apparently 200 rapid charging hubs across UK and Ireland, excluding Tesla-only. https://www.speakev.com/threads/milestone-200-rapid-hubs-now-open-in-the-uk.177382/#post-3431772 The hubs map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?mid=1DOswN-GODssM2XmKV4oQ9r-mkGcbGno&ll=54.13136950620638%2C-2.8241776258469464&z=7

move farther out from the house so your not getting the light gathering off the gutters into the shot as that will wash out some of the other celestial light sources nae bad at all though

The ring is a castellated lump of metal which rotates with the hub next to the sensor which "reads" it via hall-effect sensor. Check this for rust, damaged/split teeth. If it's dirty, damaged or past it's best it will cause the sensor to pick up erroneous readings.

I'm sorry, I don't undestand how the indirect TPMS can give a warning for all four tyres. It doesn't measure speed but relies on the ABS sensors. The sensord measure the rotation speed of each wheel relative to each other and the speed which is in the system from the reset. If one tyre loses pressure the rolling diameter decreases and the wheel rotates faster. The system picks this up after a short while and indicates that there is an unexpected rotation speed, therefore a loss of pressure. On our Karoq the system actually indicates which tyre, although on other cars we have owned it did not indicate which tyre. If all tyres are losing pressure the rotation speed of all of them will increase, and there may not be a discrepancy between wheels, so probably no alarm. I could understand an alarm of two tyres were depressurising, but if three were, there would be an odd one running at a different speed, and whether the system would recognise the one revolving slower as 'abnormal' and the other three as normal, I just have no idea. I have no idea where the cars actually obtain their speedo reading from. If it isn't from ABS sensors it is possible that the TPMS system measures against the initiallised speedo reading.

yeah, apparently it is a bearing in my AC fan!

This is a normal situation, the rubber can go weak but usually results in a slight knocking noise when turning the wheel, the essive wear on the 2 front tyres could be a few problems as in worn bushes track rod ends etc, it would pay you to check all bushes including the drop links for wear and if nothing is found take it o a decent garage when you fit 2 new tyres and have it tracked, don't take it now as the tyre wear will put the tracking out and will change again when new tyres are fitted

In my current and previous SKODAs the socket has always been live at all times. But my wife’s current Polo is only ON when ignition is on. You just have to know which is which and act accordingly.

That might prove how strong our local accents are, local-yokels. 😄 No way. Having a car on TV involves hours of waiting around doing nothing, some journalist have no proper respect for other people's property, unless it's a commercial move being featured is more about the owners ego. Which can be a laugh as they and or their vehicle might only be a very fleeting appearance, perhaps even in the very background or often not used in the show at all. My mate with the Westie was asked to arrange some "classic" cars from the club at a sprint circuit a reasonable drive away, I told him I would not waste my time and suggested he did not bother either as he wanted to promote the club. I told him he would be lucky if they got the club's name right and the club cars would only be as background for the show's featured car and that was if the any of the shooting in the show which it might not. The event was cancelled a few weeks before as the star was said to be ill and never took place later. There are plenty of companies that specialise in providing vehicles for films, TV and advertising. Mike Brewer is the Patron of the club I am in so I will not put about that show specifically but generally, certainly now at least, I would not say things are fake, in the past many shows had set up bits that could be called fake perhaps back then. Now and in the past much of the work actually done is not mentioned or shown giving a much over-simplified impression to the general public of what is needed and done . Costings are usually still 'optimistic' even now. I was not driving the Midget at all hard in the video and a standard 1275cc, or 1098cc, would look like it was going the same, I think the noisy exhaust makes it seem like it is going quicker perhaps than it actually is, the cars we were behind in the video were not going fast and I only overtook one lorry and the camera was off then. With some of the changes over the years the car was not as nippy as it was years before after first fully sorting it and even then most even modest modern family cars were quicker and faster, but without giving the same feelings. One thing to remember is whilst your Foreman is light by modern standards the Midget is lighter still so will pick up road speed quicker and the reasonably flat torque curve the Midget had.

VW dealers tend to not have access to all brands, VAG independents like us often have access to all four mainstream bands for cars with the Digital Service System via erWin.

@PhilEyreWhile asking Skoda maybe ask if VW Group including Skoda sold millions of cars with Defeat Devices which were illegal and was your Yeti among those. Did your car get a Recall Action done and new Engine Management and an Air Flow device fitted by Skoda after 2017 and are you part of a class action against the VW Group because of buying one of these cars after it was known they had these defeat devices?

The issue is your losing tyre pressure is it not. Do you reset the TPMS? EDIT. Got your latest post. So are these the factory tyres or did you change them for All Weathers? Find out why your tyres lose pressure, not why the TPMS tells you they have.

Yes the F40 was the only Fezza I'd be interested in a ride in, more my style of driver's car still a total waste of time on British roads or most roads anywhere I'd guess. I saw my mate with that car only yesterday and he reminded that the car was very untidy at the time with the duck tape at the nose cone edge and mess of wires under the dash, all sorted soon after the vid with new modern fuse boxes added too. A new aluminium topbox will be filled to the (extended) luggage rack soon as he prepares to take it over to the Historic Circuit of Laon, in France, again. The video was very hurried except for the driving, mostly I wasn't going above 40mph with an odd stretch of 50 or 60 and the engine does not really pick up until 4,000 revs and I doubt I ever got to that let alone above it. The car's sound had to be dubbed on from a video my mate made from inside the car, with the hood up, coincidentally on his way to Loan the previous year, as there was far too much wind noise on the actual recording. If yo look you will se the acceleration noises do not tie in with how the car is actually going. At one point you can see the brake lights on yet the sound is of the car still accelerating. The exhaust silencer has also been repacked since both videos as it previously blow out the original insulation. Not included was when my baseball cap got blown off, went about 4m straight up to drop back and land on the dual-carriageway road just as a motorbike approached it and steered round it, good repossesses by him. That is why I accelerated at the change of traffic lights as they changed to get to the nearby roundabout to get back to my cap before it became roadkill or another motorbike to swerve round it not knowing what it is. The video was made with a cheap second-hand Go-Pro copy and free or cheap editing software and was only the second after the Midget where my neighbour done the voice-over himself. I have no idea what the subtitles would make of his accent, Google is not yet clever enough to deal with English accents. Very few in England have the "Queen's English" you hear in international films, there are so many accents here and even people from only 30 miles away may not fully understand every word or phrase let alone regional accents. Yes that was mine for 15 years until last August. The condition was good but far from excellent, a mate who bought it had it highly polished in short order, replaced the failed (wrong rubber) seals in the concentric slave clutch with some special seals and sorted some other jobs that were on my list to do. He also found how poor the replacement hood was that I bought and had fitted by the manufacturer and how difficult it is to raised in all but the warm sun. I also sold him the hood I had bought and had arranged to have fitted by an upholsterer (which is now an expensive job). I expect he will bring the car round once he has fitted the new hood in the hotter weather. I have not seen the car since well before Xmas and if I remember correctly the engine was still out as the gearbox was away seeing what could be done with it to stop the leaking - it was supplied, modified and fitted by 'the conversion specialists' otherwise known by me as f...ing lying con-men but very highly regarded by many others including a famous car TV personality. I hope my mate has also had the stainless steel silencer repacked as that was far too noisy, the baffles inside go a bit but not fully and the noise goes up , another job I had lined up after my other mate's success with his on the Westie. HP values are ego figures, highest does not mean best for overall running, a flat high torque curve is better. Apart from after the second rolling road session when I was getting improved parts and all the servicing was paying off all subsequent sessions the figures reduced because of a change of rollers, changing in UK fuel and as the car was aged and wore. Last rolling road session, with real figures given by a proper Austin/BMC/BL A and B-series engine builder and tuner rather than some that extend the figures for egos, running on 95 octane E5 (could have higher if set for and using 99 octane E0 as I often did) - 80.62 hp at 5,442. Torque 86.28 lbft at 3,297 and reasonably level from 3,200-4,400. Book claim when new would have been 64hp and 72 lbft. Depends on your budget, the kit versions could be put together using second hand components and parts but the factory built ZEi 130 and SEiGHTs were at the time European compliant and with everything new build, they were quite expensive compared to an ordinary mass-market car. My mate's 130 in the video is I believe a 'clubman' version built for road and track use, it has 14" instead of the 15" wheels my 130 had. mine also had a heater his not, his a side exhaust mine under the car, his quick-release bonnet clips, mine four keylocks and his engine bay is a lot more congested than mine was, perhaps his as a slightly earlier car than mine Westfield were still finding out what they could fit where or perhaps more items were need for track compliance. That was true but the Westfield made parts were another matter, Westfield was very strict about getting those, the ducted nosecones of the factory cars were not allowed to be sold for kitcar use. If you made any part and offered it to others Westfield would threaten to sue (as Caterham did with them that caused the Westfield improvements). On my mate's car is an update roll-over bar with a inset wind-deflector which he made himself (Fezza fabric). He also made the extendable luggage rack, fitted a heated-windscreen and his brother made the micro-adjusting tracking parts. The Westfield "7s" sit high up compared with the Westfield 11s, copies of the Lotus 11, which started the Westfield company, the Wikki on Westfield, like so much on the internet generally about many subjects, is very short on information and has errors.

Aberdeen & Aberdeenshire is quite an affluent area with lots of Oil related businesses with car parks. You will see older cars parked there during the working week, also at the long term parking at the airport / heliport the same at other Scottish airports. This is because people have kept older cars or bought ones as daily drivers and do not use their good cars for driving to work or park up and leave for a few weeks. There are lovely cars about on the roads and the dealerships selling prestige / expensive cars. Quite often these are not on the road side or on drives they are in garages and out of sight other than when out at weekends or times onshore. Plenty older used cars might be 1 owner or ex demonstrator and one owner and low mileage in the North East of Scotland but end up in the trade further south when eventually they are moved on.

Not an affluent area round here so quite old, probably averaging somewhere about 10-15years old, but I think I won "oldest collection" I had two cars with a combined age of 61

A nonsense reply from the dealer tbh - the TMC system doesn't use satellites!

I did! I thought it's probably best not to keep using the urq as a ute Especially after the new 6-figure insurance valuation. And it's good to have another vehicle. It's a 1992 Ford Courier (also sold as a Mazda Bounty) with 404,000km on its 2.2-litre petrol engine and manual transmission. I've already done a few things to it - oil, filter, air filter (carby!!), rear speakers (back windows out to get the trims off!), removed 8m of dead wiring, dash apart to fix the charger port, a bit of cleaning up.

Hi every one. Just bought a MY 2020 Superb SE to be used as my new venture. Taxi driving. How to have a few years of trouble free motoring...lol All the best from Folkestone James

@domhnallAre Skoda Dealership selling Pollen filter at the parts department for £15? Are they doing a brake fluid change @ the £299 service? With special olive oil anointed someplace & perfumed with jasmine, rose, seseme, cinnamon and orange blossom in a far flung country, or maybe that is just the special windscreen wash for the fan nozzles that comes from the tears of angels.

It’s a shame this hasn’t happened in America as there would be a lawsuit by now. It is annoying though because nowhere does it say the traffic reports would stop after a certain date, so it’ll be interesting how VAG UK will handle this

INRIX https://inrix.com/press-releases/inrix-completes-acquisition-european-traffic-company/ “The acquisition takes us one step closer to our goal of reducing the world’s traffic congestion by providing better information globally,” said Bryan Mistele, president and CEO of INRIX. “As one company fueled by a talented staff and an unrivaled set of patented breakthrough technologies, we offer customers the best quality real-time, predictive and historical traffic information and services worldwide.” This statement seems at odds with what has happened.

That won't help those of us with older Skoda models that do not support Skoda Connect. For us there is no solution I am aware of since the only way the infotainment systems we have can get traffic data is via RDS/TMC?

All Skoda customer services want to do is send you to a main dealership who won’t be able to do anything

Thanks for the replies. Generally, android auto connects fine, it looks like it's the BT connection to the skoda handsfree which keeps connecting and disconnecting. Feels like a car issue where it's getting confused between an android auto connection and the regular BT connection for calls and media through the skoda interface. I'll try and get a picture of the error message.

yes, clock on link in my signature

Best get the new plugs in before the remap unless recently in and run the car a few hundred miles before the remap IMO. Tesco Momentum 99 is 'simply clever'. Not the same UK wide though. It is 99 ron min though.

I tried the "VRS CLUSTER THEME adaptation" both using the ODB11 built-in app and long coding (activating all the views) but it does not work on a MY23. The view appears but it does not have revs numbers nor a progress bar when the revs increase. It's static, so to speak. Please check the attached photo.

Self moderation is the key to happiness. The best reply is sometimes no reply at all. we’re all free to do what we want to do with our stuff. Why would someone buy a brand new car and take the engine out… because they can. warranty is just a risk assessment. Like any insurance. You do or do not tinker. Any manufacturer would have a hard time proving a light code change broke the transmission. Nissan tried it and lost, can’t find the reference now, 350z owner, massive warranty claim voided on unrelated change; many lost case, in the USA mind. so all that said, above all else we can and should remain civil in our replies. if we can’t, please don’t reply, self moderate for a few minutes. If after an hour you still feel the same, reply with civility. Thanks.

There's no dedicated trip meter/counter on the MK4 unfortunately. You only get "since start", "since refuel", and "long-term"... The reset is done either within the infotaiment (which can be very user-unfriendly) or via the instrument cluster. The latter is done by the right selector wheel. You need to have the counter you want on the dashboard, then longpress to reset (that's on top of my head, so could be slighlty different, but it's thereabouts...).

'Since start', 'since refuel' and 'long-term' are "improvements" and like many such so-called improvements in the digital world (cars, dishwashers, washing machines) the twenty-somethings who design these systems just make matters worse. They have no idea how simple and effective analogue and manual systems were just a few years ago. I still puzzle as to why my car needs to welcome me when I get in and to say goodbye when I switch off. Not to mention the constant pinging from sensors all over the car as I exit the garage and drive out on to the road between brick gate pillars. I've been doing this for 40+ years and never needed sensors before. Ignore it? Easier said than done. The only suggestion I have RichardB53 is to keep a notebook in the door pocket and note your mileage out and back. Paper - it's been around for centuries and remains a reliable and permanent source of recording. I've been driving Octavias since seeing them on display at Prague airport in 1998. Always impressed, but not any more. Pity we can't get Ladas and 2CVs these days. Dacia Duster next time...