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I can also confirm all is well with 1941. No more strange restarts (there were many and accumulating). Also the problem i had with the shop not working after the update and the auto-update I received and couldn't be installed due to the message backend services were not started are now gone, I could install everything this morning (my shop thingies) and the update succeeded also. I would say 1941 is a delight. @varooomyou are officially my new best friend 💗 Thank you so much

I’d just say a massive thank you to @varooom you seemed to have saved me the headache of the reboots!! I also received an OTA update after installing 1941.

I also received this OTA update after updating to 1941. It installed right away and has been working flawlessly.

It's all in the software - it determines the shocks characteristics. Hence why the DCC mod is great because it changes the shock's characteristics by using the software algorithm from an Arteon which is similar in size, weight and shape as the Superb. when I bought my car new, I was using Individual Driving Profile with DCC set to Sport, 100% of the time. Couldn't use Comfort, and Normal wasn't great - too bouncy & wallowy, and would bottom out too much. after I got the Eibach Pro-kit springs, I was using Individual Profile with DCC set to Sport 80% of the time. I would use Normal Driving Profile other times, but car would still bottom out. It wasn't as bouncy or wallowy though. after I did the DCC recalibration, I was using Individual Profile with DCC set to Sport 30% of the time. I would use Normal Driving Profile most of the time, as car was no longer bouncy or wallowy, and would rarely bottom out. after I did the DCC Mod, I'm using Individual Profile with DCC set to Comfort 100% of the time. The car is no longer bouncy or wallowy, at all, nor does it ever bottom out. I now only switch to Sport Driving Profile if I'm doing spirited windy twisty roads. It's amazing wat u can do with software. APR have recently released a new product, which does a similar thing as the DCC mod, but costs 10x more. It's their Suspension Control Module (SCU).

I finally received my VRS hybrid on Friday 16th June. Amazing car and really happy with it. Ordered in Septermber 2021 with various build dates getting knocked back. Was given a build date of August 23 before it moved forward to actually getting built in May 23. Things are moving, I'm glad I waited as got a fantastic car for a great price in today's economy.

So a fairly common problem along the MQB platform such as golf, octavia, superb and such is the steering wheel control thumb wheels either become intermittent or in my case, they would operate on their own randomly. Heres a guide to fix it: Cause: As the thumb wheels rotate anything that is on your hands ends up behind the wheel and gunks up the internal switch sensors and mainly the hall sensor which causes the fault. Tools required: Plastic trim removal tools Flat head screwdrivers Small picks Small mirror Torx screwdrivers T30, T25, T6 Contact cleaner Small brushes for cleaning such as makeup brushes 10mm spanner The first part is actually removing the steering wheel controls from the steering wheel. As we are working with airbags here you will have to disconnect the battery - take note if you have a keyless car to turn off the steering lock before disconnecting the battery. Allow the car to sit for 10 minutes to discharge anything in the airbag system for safety. Next you will be removing the upper steering wheel trim above the indicator and wiper stalks, this is done by simply pulling up on the trim closest to the steering wheel end. In the photo below indicated with a red arrow. Once this is done just flap it out the way towards the instrument cluster. We now how to remove the airbag itself. First adjust the steering rake all the way closest to you and down to give room behind the steering wheel. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees in either direction so a spoke is facing straight up. I was unable to photograph this as its so awkward to get to, but using a small mirror and flat screwdriver look into the back of the steering wheel you will see a metal clip that needs pushing into the centre of the steering wheel till that side of the airbag pops out. Rotate the steering wheel 180 degrees the other way and pop this clip out too. Disconnect the 2 plugs for the airbag and steering wheel control and put the airbag aside. Now if you have DSG there will be 2 very small white plugs going into the backs of each side of steering controls, simply disconnect these. The steering controls can now be removed by using gentle force and the trim tools and will come out complete with the black trim as well, be careful not to damage any of the clips as you pull it out, there are no screws but be careful. Now you have the steering controls off the car the hard part is done. Turn them over on a soft surface as to not damage them. And remove the 2 small screws on each side to separatex the controls from the actual black trim and making sure to remove with the ribbon cable and not damage the cable. Put the black trim aside. Now we have the controls on their own and the following must be repeated for both sides! Undo the 2 tiny screws with a red arrow and also pop the clips open for the 2 blue arrows Slide the back cover down the ribbon cable and out the way to expose the circuit board so it looks like below Now lift the circuit board out of the plastic housing to expose the front face of the circuit board, we will start with the circuit board cleaning first, get some of your contact cleaner (if its a spray, spray some into the lid to have a small bowl of liquid to dip your makeup brushes in) and you are going to wipe clean all of the arrowed parts shown (even if they dont look dirty!) Next the thumb wheel sensor itself needs a clean, be very very gentle here, the components can be damaged if you are rough. You are going to use a clean brush with contact cleaner to clean inside this sensor, both sides on the inside faces where you can see the hole, and the opposite face too. This is the circuit board clean now. Next is the contact pads and thumb wheel itself. First for the contact pads give them the same treatment as above on the arrowed parts Then pull this rubber cover off to expose the inside of the back of the control face. Be careful and take note of the small plastic 'plungers' that will fall out and need to go back in the holes arrowed blue below. The arrowed red section is the sensor pickup for the thumb wheel and where build up mainly occurs. This needs a very thorough clean with contact cleaner and the makeup brush as you rotate the thumb wheel to get every side of it. The small cut outs in this little pickup wheel need to be free from everything, including any lint or build up. Once this is done, repeat the whole procedure for the other side. Now you can start rebuilding everything. Place the 2 plungers in the hole and put the rubber cover back over the top the right way up. Rest the circuit board back down on top making sure to locate it correctly. Refit the plastic cover and the 2 screws per side. Once both sides are done, refit to the plastic trim piece and clip it back onto your steering wheel gently with light pressure to push the locating pins back into place. Dont forget to reattach the DSG paddle plugs and then refit your airbag plug and steering control plug before refitting the airbag into the steering wheel - push the airbag till you hear the click of both sides of the clips re-engaging. Refit the trim piece behind the steering wheel now starting closest to the dashboard this time. Reconnect the battery now and start the car. You will have a dashboard full of errors at this point - dont panic - just slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock twice then restart the car again, all errors should be gone. Congrats - you are done, hard work paid off and saved yourself the price of a new set of controls at £250!!!

Thanks for the responses. My insurance don’t cover it. If I get the new key from Skoda they automatically disable the missing key as they give the current keys a new code.

I also got that update immediately after upgrading to 1941 by myself. Thanks @varooom! The update was successful and the reboots should be gone now. Now there's only one small annoyance with an update of the manuals failing. I can remember having the same problem before and the manual was then successfully installed a couple days later, I hope that's the case now as well. Looking at @djmartzian's post above, there's a fix for the manual, so maybe it just needs a full deep sleep cycle.

Either leave it as is, or call out a smart repair is my honest suggestion. Body repair is far from easy and reading a guide is only a small part of the battle, years of practice and technique to blend a panel is required. (I attempted to blend a bumper and wing once, just looked like i had finished with a hard line no matter how i done it, you may have better luck)

Just new here....this is mine iv Sportline. Grtz, Ben.

UPDATE: @JR RS had the 245 tyres fitted today. There were indeed cheaper and look better on the wheels than the 235. @MartiniB got the springs but when I took them to get them fitted the garage advised me that my shocks are on the way out so I abandoned the job and have just ordered some Bilstein B6’s all around. I’ll get them all fitted together in a week or so. thanks for the advice

Plenty of for @Rainesh (who provided me the link with the firmware) and @varooom (for supporting the community with very useful informations and TPI documents). I've just installed 1941 on a friend's car, who is very busy and he didn't have time to waist it with the dealers. We(Briskoda Community) manage to bring his smile and to still love his car after this upgrade. Before this, he was very grumpy with all those sort of reboots. I do have one question: Has anybody else that installed this firmware by itself, received the following OTA update? I'm asking because I didn't receive it on my car, and I'm wondering if my dealer has disabled some on-line services! Other then above, no more reboots or any kind of issues after this weekend journeys. Keep up the good work!

Correct. Going into ECO Driving profile doesn't change the DCC mode. It will remain in whatever mode it was set to by the previous Driving Profile. Hence if u were in Normal and change to Eco - DCC will remain in Normal. If u were in Sport and change to ECO - DCC will remain in Sport. ECO Driving Profile only changes the ACC, Drive mode, Xenon lights and AC.

Don't hold your breath! If you were an insurer would you want to cover a claim where someone wants an extra key for their vehicle? Keys stolen during a house break in or in a handbag stolen on holiday might be covered on those policies but not your vehicle insurance. If you genuinely have lost your second key then your preoccupation should be to get a new one via VAG ASAP so that the old one will become disabled.

Normally, when you have an incoming call you can use the volume control to turn the volume up or down before you answer call.

It's definitely worth avoiding disturbing the subframe if you can help it, particularly if you're working on the ground. They do have a bit of wiggle in their fitment, so you can mess your alignment up fairly easily. Not a great fan of poly bushes on the consoles myself, I've got them on mine and it's a bit harsh for a daily. If I were doing it again I'd go with the solid rubber bushes off an Ibiza cupra.

And I got her the 18” Perseus wheels and wrapped the chrome linings from the front bumper. I wanted to purchase a Sportline diffuser, however it does have crome elements on it and I don’t feel like it’s worth the trouble to wrap it again. The next thing is to work on silencing the interior a bit more, as it is a bit noisy at high speed.

Thank you @varooom

Agreed but its low down enough to probably not be noticeable, I would keep the repair and fade out as small as possible so as to remain in the overhung section if that makes any sense.

You are absolutely right. I should have written the question to main thread not for You

(EDIT. When the 'Low oil level' light or message are working correctly and there is a low oil level, if you open the bonnet and even do nothing the light / message goes out for 62 miles / 100 km. Which is just stupid really, but that is how the system is.) ? Is the oil level fine when checked stone cold sitting on the flat, as in area A on the Dip stick. The oil level check is at Normal Operating temperature parked on the flat after a few minutes. So oil up above an indicated 80*oC, to 90 *oC and then dipped. What engine has the car, how many miles done and has it had an oil change yet? Is it a car leased from Motability? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/463124-dipstick-question http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/502151-check-oil-level-warning http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/463124-dipstick-question http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/499390-oil-level-too-high-warning-karoq-15-tsi PS From your other 2 posts your local Dealership seems to be a busy place. Must be all the Warranty jobs they have to get done, eventually.

Nice one and welcome to the Superb forum 🙂

I had "random" reboots typically less than 1 minute after starting the car and by a process of elimination, I found it was related to whether I had a phone charging and/or streaming podcasts. What I found was 1. Charging a phone (Google Pixel) and using Android auto, single reboot next start 2. Charging a phone without using Android auto, no reboot 3. Charging a phone, using Android auto and streaming podcasts,odd double reboot, normally single reboot. 4. Not charging a phone, no reboot, streaming podcasts or not 5. Charging a phone, Android auto on but screen switched back to standard screen, no reboot What caught me was a lot of my journeys are short enough time wise (less than 30min) so I wouldn't bother charging the phone so no issues would appear. Now I know what the trigger pattern is, I can avoid and hang on until I get the update

Welcome. Maybe some help here from the Mk3 Fabia section. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/432269-air-filter http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/478632-air-filter-change

What does it say on the fuel-filler flap?

sorry ... tomorrow I'll do as you told me and then I'll send you the train software thanks for your courtesy and availability.

They are called swap codes for the nav system Not all will be active/inactive and it all depends on how the vehicle was spec’d from the factory. It it also not a job of wanting all enabled for extra features - some will be things like Australian maps and other things you don’t want in the U.K.

This is because no one uses the special tool, is cheap and worth its weight in gold for jobs like this. it’s like a long screwdriver with 2 prongs at the end. if you look up T10518 they can be had for around £12

@protoncoder does the car have air conditioning? A 17 year old fan can easily be dead, hopefully you'll soon tell us if it spins up with direct power. Careful you don't cut fingers (or worse) if/when it starts up.

Details of new Kodiaq engines now released https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-kits/the-all-new-skoda-kodiaq-press-kit/ 1.5 mild hybrid tsi 150hp 2.0 tsi 204hp with 4x4 2.0 diesel 150hp 2.0 diesel 193hp with 4x4 all these with 7speed DSG also 1.5 Plug in hybrid 204hp (combined petrol and electric) 6speed DSG all engines meet euro 6e standard

What's your GSM signal like? I gave up on S-PIN and individual profiles due to the unreliability of the software, having spent too many journeys with no radio, media or nav because the ICE was stuck at 'Syncing' from engine start. My conclusion was that, as well as being generally buggy, a good GSM signal is key to ensure server response times, and ours is poor generally. The biggest personalisation feature for us is seat memory, and whilst it would be nice if this was reliably linkable to the key in use as it is supposed to be, I can live with pressing a button on entry, and without all the other personalisation stuff which requires profiles.

Thank you 👍

Knees. Sorry couldn't resist. All cars will eventually make strange noises. Could be rubbers wearing on suspension, dry joints a whole host of causes. Any advisories on the previous MOT referring to bushes etc. I'm more irritated by internal rattles and squeaks.

It does but easy enough to test at home with prank calls and ignition recycling

Even way way more cheaper, and an even better ride if u r able to get "DCC Mod (Arteon algorithm) + DCC recalibration + Eibach Pro-kit springs" Completely transforms the car, for a fraction of the price, time and effort. Best of all u get to keep all the other DCC dependent systems happy. Win win

Yup, but at my age, I don't want to move any more, I can't be doing with all that stress and hard work, anyway, what is a nice area today could, tomorrow turn out just as bad as what we have today if the wrong people move in, so just have to keep on about the tree for me and hope that one of the authorities will eventually own up to it and remove it. It is an accident just waiting to happen as it is taller than the house and when we get gales, branches break off, the rest of the year we get pooping, leaves falling clogging all the bonnet vents and wipers and then in the spring we get all the bloody catkins dropping everywhere and getting trapped under the wipers blades 🤬

Cleaned her and went to my local car spot motorist hub

Thanks all. I drove the car for a road trip to the beach yester, with air con going, and all was okay. I've found a friend w a mains charger, and I will try that in the next few days. I hope it will still be useful to do that after whatever charge recovery from driving. I guess it won't hurt, in any event. The battery is a few years old -- can't remember exactly when it was replaced. Old enough to not be new; young enough to be disappointed if it conked out.

Thankyou all for your help , local garage cured problem . Reverse switch was not functioning. Supplied and fitted £40. i was happy at that. Thanks again.

That implies a change to the Leuchte related adaptation channels not a coding change.

There was a model change later on 2014 when Mk3 Fabia were introduced and started arriving at Dealership. Mk2 Euro 5 emissions, Mk3 are Euro 6. Citigo is a 1.0 MPI, no turbo. As is a 1.2 MPI Fabia, or a 1.0 MPI. & a 1.2 TSI has a turbo. What is it you have seen , is it a 1.2 TSI or a 1.0 MPI which could be a Mk3? MY2015 cars, late 2014.

Wow can’t believe it’s been that long, I’m sure I saw it in person at one of the either briskoda national meets or Skodafest back then around 2015

I prefer to use Waze, although it still insists on using feet on the approach to junctions & roundabouts etc. But I do have a lot of knowledge in my head so I'm not over reliant on technology.

I've booked the Fabia in for it's MOT a week today (28th June). This will be the first MOT since it expired in September 2016, so the break in the MOT history will be substantial to say the least. I'll get some better full underneath shots when it's up on the ramp. Once it's MOT'd, I shall tax it for 6 months then start using it to get the miles on. (for those of you worried about me driving it in the post above it was on Trade Plates to get it home.)

It's amazing the difference a mint rear screen makes. They stand out so much when the glue starts showing through. I love these updates Trev, it's further proof the car has ended up in the right hands and not being ragged to death or broken for spares.

Thread cleaned again. did some this am but rushing for a meeting. please keep the bickering to a minimum. if you don’t agree that’s fine, but as per the guidelines, please be nice. i’d maybe go so far as to revise that to: be nice.

If your car doesn't have Hill Hold Control, then rolling back on hills is normal. Lots of early Superbs only had HHC as an extra option, while some had it fitted but not enabled in the software (can be enabled using VCDS / VAG-COM - search the site for more answers). In terms of your other problems, I've driven our Superb since 2010 and it's been doing most of what you describe for the last 8 years or so. I haven't ever had a flashing gear number though, so that might require more investigation. But in terms of the strange gear changes, hanging onto gears etc. from my perspective it's pretty normal. You get used to the erratic behaviour at roundabouts etc. and learn to adjust / watch out for it. Software resets have improved things a bit for me in the past, but it might just be placebo effect. A garage told me years ago that the gears / clutches were slipping and I should pay to replace the whole unit as it was on its last legs. Another garage told me it was fine and to just keep driving it! For me it never made economic sense to change the mechatronic unit etc. Maybe I've been lucky and just gotten away with it. I have the older 6-speed wet gearbox, for what that's worth. And lots of people will tell you that they don't experience what you're experiencing, which is true. But for me it's just symptoms of not brilliant software for the most part I think.

Looks good in the sun does race blue:

Under inflate the tyres and over torque the wheel fasteners, tyre fitting golden rules😂

From the first time I ever had the misfortune to use a tyre fitting place some 45 years ago it has been my experience that mechanics and tyre fitters inflate all tyres to 30 psi because they can't be ar5ed to look up individual figures, back then that may have been a reasonable average and not unsafe, with todays stupid rim sizes and rubber band tyres it is dangerously underinflated for most vehicles. Given that most of the spotty youths in Kwik-fit were not born back then, nor their parents either I'm surprised that the old figure is still being passed on and accepted unthinkingly (well not the latter actually!) it should be something like 2.5 bar these days, I know they should not use a general figure and inflate the tyres correctly for the vehicle but that ain't gonna happen in my lifetime!