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Mine came with 18's, kerbed them in the first week (first time in decades). Changed for 16's. Sale of 18's covered the cost of the 16. Never regretted it, better ride, lower noise(might be the tyres of course) haven't kerbed them in 4 years. With beam axle I was never going to notice a difference in handling😄. Which I did notice moving from IRS.

This happened to me when I replaced the batteries in both keys fobs not long after purchase. I had to synchronise both key fobs one by one. From p57 of the manual: Synchronising the remote control If the buttons on the remote control key have been operated several times beyond the effective range of the system or the battery in the remote control key has been replaced and the vehicle cannot be unlocked using the remote control, the key must be synchronised. › Press any button on the remote control key. › Unlock the door with the key in the lock cylinder within 1 minute of pressing the button.

Colourful sky this evening and the Buck Moon has just put in an appearance 👍

It's a 205/55 R16, which the EC Certificate of Conformity for my Yeti* says only needs a load index of 91: * It actually bears the Yeti's VIN, it's a not a generic document.

Compact disc changer has been installed. It works, but is senile. Sometimes forgets that there is discs in certain bits. Can resolve that later. It does work if you spam the buttons on the stereo anyway. Contact has been made with painter man ("painter man, who would be a painter man"... well bugger me I need help) about them there Stranglers spec car doors. I'll let that last joke settle in a bit there. Oh yeah, bushes are having a fun time, I think. A decent amount of toe out at the moment (to the point where it's visible to my appalling eyesight) so will have to see to that before I scrub the tyres clean.

You'll be lucky to get to chat with any mechanic at a main dealer for something as mundane as brakes! Just find a local independent or and get a quote for a strip-down and check, and for new disks, pads, drums, shoes as required. Do a brake fluid change anyway. A check may reveal other problems, like weeping brake cylinders. The point is that the work you are asking for is total bread-and- butter work for any garage that they do every day of the week. Nothing clever involved. Just ask about the origin of the parts, as they are all going to be pattern parts, and you probably want something manufactured in the EU by a known brand, rather than a fake Chinese part.

Definitely not worth the risk.

Thanks for the response! I don't know as it hasn't been cold lately. I have however managed to answer my own question since posting. With the help of YouTube I have done a continuity test on all 4 glow plugs, cylinder 1 glow plug is definitely faulty, the others are fine.

under the coolant pump, it's return pipe from the radiator. MPI one is slightly different, it has only one inlet for the heater return hose, SPI/carburettor has an extra inlet for Intake preheating.

Upgraded my Mk2 Vrs for this stunning beauty this weekend

I will put this here rather than in a Tesla Model 3 thread, as it might be helpful.

The weather in the east Midlands this evening made for lovely skies 🌈

R-line? What gets me about posters like this they always blame tools rather than themselves. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and I'm not criticising the driving style one little bit, but I am questioning what anyone considering a 1.0tsi DSG powering an SUV is expecting from their car? It's obviously the wrong car for you. Nobody in the market for a 1.0tsi auto SUV should be expecting the performance the OP clearly is. Begs the question what are you comparing it to? I suspect you're comparing apples to pears. Whatever the pros and cons of a Kamiq 1.0tsi are, then unless there's something seriously wrong with his particular engine, none of the above applies.

So, what is this project and why did i restart it? I kind of lost some motivation on the the first project thread and sort of gave up, the old topic was kind of messy, unrelated posts etc. and because I started the original project back in 2014 (nearly 2 years ago!) I know if I looked back through it, a lot of photos would be deleted or no longer visible, I'm going to lay out this topic in a similar way to the topic on Mighty Car Mods. When the topic first started out, I had no big plans for the car, how much the car has transformed over the years has been down to 2 main factors, Briskoda.net and Updown789, who I met through Briskoda just over a year ago, his help with the car has been huge and without him, the car wouldn't be what it is today. We've had our moments at times and disagreements, but we have always looked back and laughed about them. (I also mustn't forget Stormchaser, who has also lent a hand or 2 every once and a while and provided a few parts for the car as well as anyone else who has helped me and I haven't named.) Let's get into things.. to keep things short and sweet, I'll post all the major changes that have been made (so I won't bother posting about the Heko wind deflectors etc.).. i'll be honest too, during my time of ownership I have done some mighty **** looking modifications and made mistakes for choosing modifications that haven't exactly looked great.. it's all about learning from your mistakes though.. right..? This is going to be a mighty long first post. 14th January 2013, the day I bought the car, a standard Citigo SE model in Tornado Red with the winter pack (heated seats, electric heated mirrors) and 14" Apus wheels. 12th June 2014 - I crashed. (Not my fault, doing the speed limit and a deer came out and I had nowhere to go.) The parts damaged were: - Bonnet - Headlight - Headlight bracket - Bumper to side panel clip - Inner wheel arch - Side panel - Front bumper 18th July 2014 - Debadged the rear after being motivated to do it by Stormchaser. (Apologies I haven't got a great picture. Also this was done whilst the car was still being repaired.) 24th July 2014 - Finally the car was repaired, having 0 knowledge of cars and how parts worked, I fitted and sourced all the parts myself from eBay & Skoda, the wing I bought did need respraying and due to my lack of knowledge on cars, the person who resprayed the wing, didn't use the cars paint code so, it's not the right shade of red. The wheels were also resprayed black, by again the same person, this was also done on the cheap as I later found obvious runs in the paint and it was done with the tyre still on the wheel. 23rd March 2015 - It begins.. having purchased a incorrectly described headlight switch, which was chrome, I wanted chrome to match the chrome heater controls, turns out it was from an Up! so illuminated red and not green, however this prompted me to wanting to change all the lights in the car to red, as I liked the look and colour, so I got some Volkswagen Up! heater controls & buttons to match. 14th April 2015 - First of many big changes, H&R lowering springs. (35mm.) 19th April 2015 (An educated guess..) - Changed front grille over to a Monte Carlo one from the OEM Chrome one. (Again IIRC, this was originally Stormchaser's.) 21st May 2015 - After noticing my front numberplates were tired and worn I changed them out for some funky 3D effect number plates. 11th June 2015 - Without a doubt in my mind the worst modification I have ever done, I got completely fobbed off by an eBay seller and bought what I thought were genuine leather seats, which it turned out, was just leather sprayed onto the original cloth seats (if you think they look rubbish in the photos, just imagine what they looked like in person! :D) 20th June 2015 - Upgraded the speakers to FLI ones. (No pictures due to limitations on how many pictures can be posted to one single post on Briskoda.) 11th July 2015 - FLI Rear speakers added. (Had none in the rear from factory.) (No pictures due to limitations on how many pictures can be posted to one single post on Briskoda.) 17th July 2015 - Volkswagen Up! radio finally fitted to match the heater controls, also, this is gloss black opposed to the standard plastic look the Skoda Citigo radio has. 22nd August 2015 - Functioning autolights with coming and leaving home function enabled via VCDS. 28th September 2015 - Another addition to the red theme, W8 Interior Light. 2nd October 2015 - Actual leather seats! Okay, not 100% leather, rather a mix of both pleather and leather done by Seat Surgeons in West Yorkshire. 4th October 2015 - Following on with more leather bits, a Volkswagen Up! leather handbrake and Gearknob. 17th October 2015 - Said goodbye to the H&R springs and upgraded to KW Variant 1 Coilovers (secondhand) to lower the car that ever so slightly more. An up to date picture just after the coilovers. 17th - 18th November 2015 - Had the car professionally detailed and paintwork also corrected, 20 hours labour. 3rd December 2015 - Dewipered. (The plastic bung was soon replaced with a flush glass one.) 9th January 2016 - Continuing with the leather theme, MK3 Skoda Octavia leather MF steering wheel. 13th February 2016 - MY16 Skoda CItigo Monte Carlo cherry red centre console fitted. 23rd March 2016 - No photos.. however the car was remapped by EcoTuning with a map from Celtic Tuning.. what this started was a complete change in terms of what route I was taking the car down. 13th April 2016 - Chopped off the resonance chamber from the OEM intake pipe. Now with a remap, I was on the hunt for more power from the 1.0 engine, this one mod is what started a long road to find the best intake pipe I could make/find. 17th April 2016 - More attempts to gain power, with Updown789's help, we de-restricted the filter box. (This was of course smoothed.) 5th May 2016 - Redid the intake pipe with a Silicone bend. And also picked up some freshly refurbished Volkswagen Avus wheels found on the old Volkswagen Cabriolets, these wheels were originally in Updown789's possession however I purchased them from him and had them diamond cut and resprayed by Motura in Ferndown. 13th May 2016 - It turned out the silicone pipe was rubbing on the bonnet, so this was scrapped and using some intake ducting I bought of eBay a year or so back, I came up with a design and found a way I can have a pipe coming from behind the grille direct to the filter box. This will soon again change as this "design" so to speak was revised 3 or 4 times before being final. 17th May 2016 - Again, changed the intake pipe, got rid of the Silicone bend as it really wasn't needed. 24th May 2016 - Took the car again to Motura to have the OEM Skoda Citigo Sport splitter and diffuser fitted as well as a gloss black OEM Volkswagen Up! spoiler. Present (9th June 2016) - Exterior - 2017 Monte Carlo Taillights (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4818255) Lamin-X Yellow Fog Lights Volkswagen golf MK4 Amber side indicators Summer wheels - Atec F1 16" Bronze Alloys (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4927424) Winter wheels - OEM Apus 14" Black Alloys Track wheels - Atec Ultralite 16" Bronze Alloys (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4761617) Rear wiper delete Front and rear mudflaps (OEM) Heko wind deflectors Debadged on the rear Rear diffuser from the Sport model Front splitter from the Sport model Volkswagen Up! gloss black spoiler Interior - 2016 Skoda Citigo Monte Carlo centre console (cherry red) MK3 Skoda Octavia / Superb / MK1 Kodiaq MFSW (Alcantara) (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4884232) Volkswagen Up! radio Volkswagen Up! heater module Volkswagen Golf MK4 Auto Headlight Switch with functioning autolights Front speakers changed Duel cigarette lighter socket (1x cigarette socket 1x duel USB ports) Audi TT Pedals Volkswagen Up! Gear knob Volkswagen Up! Leather hand brake Rear seats and belts removed Corbeau Club Sport bucket seats Carpet and headliner removed Interior trims removed with exception to front door cards and upper centre console Lower centre console removed Engine - Celtic Tuning Stage 1 Remap Custom intake setup (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4856024) Oil Temp Sensor (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4728108) Brakes & Suspension/Handling - KW Coilovers Rear Bilstein B6 Shocks & H&R Springs Front (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4914123) MTEC grooved discs EBC Yellowstuff pads (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4937872) ATE Typ200 brake fluid (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4937872) Wiechers Sport Rear Strut Brace (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4703931) Wiechers Sport Front Strut Brace (Upper) (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4845123) Wiechers Sport Front Strut Brace (Lower) (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4943302) Powerflex polyurethane front top mounts (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4836785) Whiteline rear anti roll bar (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=5040708) VCDS - Tear wipe Autolock after 5MPH Coming home/leaving home lights (30 Seconds) The car has certainly come a long way in the last year. I had originally planned to have it show spec and pristine. I've had a theme of "Black and Red". Then moved onto having an "old style" theme with the old classic wheels and amber side repeaters along with chrome grille. As of current, the future plan is and will be to have the car as powerful as I can make it without damaging the engine and do as many track days as possible. We'll see where it takes me from there.

Hi There, I drive a Skoda Karoq(1.5 TSI ACT), purchased in June 2018. I recently got a email/message from my dealership that I was due a cambelt change after 5 years. I have been quoted 1000 £ for this. I was just trying to get a couple of other quotes from Skoda authorized service centers. And one of them has come back saying there has been an advisory update/change from Skoda (only today!!!) that the cambelt change is not necessary every 5 years anymore. Their email is as below. Good afternoon, Further to our conversation earlier today, I can confirm that Škoda is removing the recommendation to replace the cambelt every five years. This means that there is no service interval at all. Many thanks My dealership say there are not aware of any such advisory change/update from Skoda and still recommend me to change the cambelt as its been 5 years. I am more than happy not to change the cambelt if its not necessary as this is a big expense. But wondering if anyone had any thoughts and advice me on this? Thank you, Sid

Perhaps I'm reading this wrong but are you saying all of those were included at your serive last month? I may be completely wrong, but if you are, then I was under the impression the pollen filter change and extended scope occurred in alternate years - i.e. the two never occured on the same service. Someone with more knowledge than me might be able to answer that one.

Every major tyre centre I've checked offers the 255/50 R17 with load rating, which tallies with the above. But as I say, I've got the 205/55 R16s which only need 91. The only one requiring 95 is the 215/60 R16.

Amazing! thanks Ords!!

Haha, okay. Let's break this down. You are saying I need to provide source for my feelings, but you don't need to provide source for your claimed facts/truth!? The source for my feeling is the quote directly above it, and a very simple thing call multiplication: vast majority of scientists * "reward if you do toe the line " (your words) "in fact" - "Also, in point of fact. In reality, in truth; actually. " https://www.dictionary.com/browse/in--fact Where in the 2 source article have they said that they lost access to their bank accounts? First is "revoking all titles and honors". Second is "stripped of ‘humanist of the year’ title". None is related to bank accounts that support your claimed facts. I am not trying to strawman you, I'm just pointing out that your claimed facts are false, but I'm happy to be corrected when provided with sufficient source. This is true. I never thought people needing to pay £500 in instalments. I recently bought a £400 Steam Deck and that's within my disposable income. But cars are assets, in the process to get rid of non-compliant vehicle, one will gain some liquidity towards buying the replacement asset. I sold my non-compliant 2013 diesel by doing a bit of legwork and finding a dealer outside Greater London. Got a reasonable price for it. My point is, the money I got is entirely possible to buy a similar condition compliant petrol. "In fact I'd say it's easier to control them now, as there's more money to buy them off and public defenestration is a common occurrence for people failing to adhere with the current narrative. " "In fact, you can even lose access to banking services, if you fail to toe the line. That's quite an incentive to say what should be said, and not say what must not be said. " Still no sources for either of those very bold claims. The data sources are solid, but the 0.000016% number is meaningless without context or trends. Which is problematic when using that out-of-context number in order to make your point.

Depends on who you ask. 😂 Skoda engineers would disagree with you for sure. But yes, now you need at least 3 clicks to disable it. And usually you also need to wait a bit for infotainment to fully load before you can disable it.

..as previouslt posted, I made the change last year and after much soul searching ended up with a Kia Niro, (self charging hybrid). So far I have been really pleased, yes the Yeti was a little more practical, but the Niro ticks 95% of all the boxes for me. Definately like the auto, adaptive cruise control, 7 year warrantly and rear camera, and currently averaging around 70mpg (actual).

No. But they do come with dreadful suspension. First thing I changed on mine. Cannot belive how bad it was.

also interested, start and stop is one of the most anoying thing ever created in the human history 😁

Hello,I bought my caps from my local skoda dealer,worked out at about £44 inc vat.Before fitting measeured them and they were about 56mm across on the wheel aperature..Hope this helps Cheers Andy

The V12 maps, both modified and unmodified work on both units, it is just the Delphi that the tmc does not work with. Both units are fitted to 2016 Golfs, manufactured a month apart. Both units have the same part number 3Q0035874A, and both have the FEC's 00040100 - navigation and 09400008 - maps VW Mib2 Std EU.

Em, antifreeze is one of 2 components in a mixture called "coolant". The other one is water, and since you live in Derbyshire I advise actually using deionised water rather than the local hard water.

@lol-lolI am charging at Edinburgh Airport now on a 7kW charger just going to 98%>. There are only 2 posts with 22kW AC chargers and no guarantee they are working. Loads of 7 kW are out of order and as for the 6 Rapids the chance of getting on the Tethered AC on the side is hit or miss because of the way people park in bays, abuse the chargers by staying locked in when not charging. Having 11kW AC on the next car will suit my needs at times. Small battery. 3 hours max. Or use an AC while waiting for a rapid. Ps. There is Tesla superchargers near but then the drivers are not going to get to abandon the car for many many hours at them. So the plug in here, set the timer and block the bay and no penalty charge.

thanks to @varooom, updated to 1941, now testing.. so far, no more reboot

I suggest you avoid a main dealers other than go in and ask about their prices, and then maybe ask the Service desk person to go get the master tech to speak to you. Use a local independent garage, someplace trusted in your area. Go speak to the boss / manager / mechanic there about your idea for Servicing & Maintenance and replacing the likes of the rear drums just because you have no idea how they are. You do need servicing of the brakes, a brake fluid change, maybe new pads, maybe new discs, maybe drums, but find out from the mechanic. Not a Service Desk Receptionist.

Wow, the savings in servicing over those 200k miles. The level of performance still. I followed this key guy for a couple of years and I would happily let him service my Zoe, might well do. I hope he sets up a national, including Scotland as I have seen him up there several times in his videos, as he is, perhaps, and mobile fixers like him, the answer for the future rather than those dealers who take a big slice of new and second hand sales and do a pretty poor job of servicing and whose knowledge is basically pants. Interesting vid and good contribution to the overall argument for TESLA if not EVs. Did not comment about the panel fit, wonder why ?

me too have seen lot better numbers there in BS forum, but not in real life - MY23 280ps at it's first 6k Kms l/100km MPG.uk 12,7 22,3 17,8 15,9 15,9 17,8 9,9 28,6 9,4 30,0 16,2 17,4 8,7 32,6 12,3 22,9 9,6 29,3 15,9 17,8 8,5 33,4 8,1 34,7 9,3 30,3 8,7 32,6

Edinburgh City Council charging tariffs. This includes the Park & Rides & @ Edinburgh / Ingliston Park & Ride @ the Airport. At least it is now 1 hour max charging on Rapids rather than the 30 minutes it was when 35 pence a kWh.

In France, under 250 euros, you are good to do if you don't choose dhl, ups and co. Juste normal post office. If you go for Express delivery then yes, customs and vat will have to be paid. I got my camera through Standard shipping and didn't pay any Extra

Yes, the Made in China ones seems to be on-par with all other cars on the road. I'm feel the Made in Germany ones might be even better. I think it's only the American ones are problematic. (up to early 2021 for M3's)

Just think how much better your on road handling will be with 60mm! 🙄 A couple of bags of cement in the roof box will make it handle like a Formula 1 car! Your rear bump stops are deteriorated and turning to dust but they would not do any good now as the vehicle will become coilbound before they could have any affect, a serious safety issue and should be addressed, you may be able to fit new ones together with 60mm cut down sections of the old ones. It takes me back to fitting Jack-Up bars to the rear spring hangers of my MK2 Tincorner and then finding that both rear shock absorbers had sheared off at the top with the suspension on full rebound when I was trying to emulate the Dukes of Hazzard, - YEEHAAAH!

Please do, it would reduce the downtime when I do the job if I can get the bearings in advance otherwise I will simply measure them, I have been specifying bearings for over 4 decades. It would be ironic if the bearing is the same one as used on the Lotus Elan differential and my Maytag commercial washing machine as I have several in stock, it was underspecified in both those applications as well!!!!

Iy you have the small handle, you need yo measure the plug and you will need to build a clamp to hold yue AliExpress handle. If you have the bog handle then you ar good to go but go for the stock Octavia camera on AliExpress, it will have all the options

Changed my mind and went WTF and went & changed order for a murdered out car, no chrome. Carbon black leather, Midnight Black II paint, Piano black trim, privacy glass, still the 16" alloys in black. Not my car after all.

That's what I thought you meant but wanted to clarify that the firmware needs 'modifying' by a tuner.

Ceramic spray applied this morning after collection yesterday

My Velvet Red , collected yesterday and given a ceramic spray protection today

Sometimes stop-start is irritating, but if you keep light pressure on the brake pedal while stopped, the engine will keep running. With heavier pressure it stops. Works for me.

Bump. For @Tdawber Then this, http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/478186-does-the-mark-three-fabia-have-rear-disc-brakes Brakes do require Servicing and Maintenance be they Drum or Disc. Sadly that is not part of Main Dealer Servicing, it is an extra, or just too much bother for them. A good independent is needed really for Servicing & Maintenance. IMO.

Do you find being a plonker amusing? This place is for people to come and seek helpful car advice , so if you have nothing constructive to add, why not shut yer pie-hole, eh? You probably made this new member feel about as welcome as a hedgehog in a condom factory.

Just new here....this is mine iv Sportline. Grtz, Ben.

The A/C condenser is the thing that sits in front of the engine coolant radiator. The A/C evaporator is the thing in the cabin that gets cold. Just cabin-side of where the refrigerant pipes go through the firewall. The thing under the driver's seat is probably a diesel fuel cooler. The evaporator drain is visible in the first two photos you posted, 8* in the first 5 in the close-up second photo, adjacent to the pipes going to the heater matrix. Find it under a flap of sound insulation (shown as item 1 in your second picture), and as described in that linked thread. The condensed water is probably running from this drain, around the body metalwork to a low point near the fuel cooler, then falling to the ground.

Yes I can send you the firmware for this.

Ok, so first step been completed. Front side windows replaced. If anyone is interested, part numbers are: 5E3845022 (right side) 5E3845021 (left side) Nothing else needs replacement, seals are the same. In Poland i have paid 865 PLN per windows, so roughly 180€ in dealership. Tried to find used windows, but only found them in Sweden. It made no sense, as price (with shipping) was just 20€ lower, than new ones. Replacement is rather easy, once door card is removed. 1. Remove 2 plastic caps marked in green. 2. Lower your window, so that you can see holes/openings in the glass. 3. Use screwdriver or something similar to push plastic windows latches, that you can see through hole in the glass (sorry, haven taken pictures of this part). Push gently, but rather deep. At the same time try to move the glass up. Once it's release, you can remove it. 4. Release straps holding wiring (yellow marks). Do not cut them, as those are not regular straps you can replace with anything! 5. Take off plug marked in red. Disconnect all plugs. 6. Remove 2 torx screws in point marked in red. 7. Rotate green "screws" by 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Now you can remove whole window lift part, gaining access to inside of the door if you wish to use the mats there. If not, you can skip points from 4 to 7. Assemble everything in reverse order. That's it. One note - after this, you will need a diagnostic interface to clear airbag error. Round part with yellow plug is impact sensor. I have used the mats in the doors, on speaker frame and on the midrange driver mounting place on the door card. Mat is 3mm thick. Also used accoustic foam (self-adhesive) on the door cards. Now door and window feels much more sturdy. Sounds completely different when you knock on it/hit it. Also give very satisfying closing sound. Inside you can hear less noise from passing cars, but it's still present. I was surprised, that it has also reduced a bit tyre noise and suspension sounds. In general improvement is quite good, at least up to 100-120 kph. At 140 kph difference seems to be little bit lower, as tyre noise is dominating. I guess will need to also do wheel arches, and maybe part of the floor. Also one can still hear windo noise from the windscreen. Not replacing it yet Please remember, that i did all at once, so i cannot really say what would be the effect on replacing windows only, without dampening the doors. Dampening the doors has improved audio significantly. It still lacks lower bass, but at least now bass much better controlled, more punchy. Sounds much better in general. Now i have to do a rear door Edit: One more photo - inside of the door. Haven't used the mats on reinforcement, as i don't think it resonates that much, and didn't want to add more weight to the door. They are heavy already now