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Well, I’m pleased to report that the problem has disappeared. Have just filled up at a local co-op. Can’t tell how relieved and happy my wife and I are. We were having visions of it spoiling our holiday but we need worry no more. Might actually get a full night’s sleep tonight. Thank you everybody for your suggestions. It would be nice to know the cause in case it happens in the future to me or anyone else for that matter but I suspect we’ll never get to the bottom of this mystery.

Here at last is the brief write up on the tabs that I sourced from eBay via a Chinese seller that I hoped would be a suitable replacement for the original ones which are assembled from 4 parts which simply snap together, although they are incredibly difficult to assemble as the tab is assembled around the central slat, and you effectively need another pair of hands to hold, guide and press fit the bits together while inserting the hinged elongated prongs at the last minute before the parts snap into position and click lock together. However, sadly the clips are not suitable for use with Škoda air vents due to the tabs having 3 prongs at the back and the Škoda vanes having a strange shape as can be seen in the 5th photo below. If the vane had a profile like the "ideal" in that photo with "C" type bar as drawn and a tab like the Chinese ones but with 2 prongs would have been ideal. Anyway, after extracting the complete vent I took it apart very carefully on my bench, this whole vent is made from 2 identical units but are mirrored and joined to together via a series of clips and a single full width rim piece locks them together to form a complete vent and this vent has to be carefully unclipped and teased apart from the rest of the vent and this has approx 18 clips around it. Then you need to carefully unclip the frame that holds the slats/shutters and this around 10 clips and guides to release and then with gentle pulling should then separate from the main body. On the back of the tab on that vent, you clearly see the two prongs that engage with the vanes for side to side directional control of the air. This is where I discovered that I had got really lucky, the small piece of the tab that connects the large chrome knob and the 2 pronged section that fits the vanes was still firmly attached to the main tab body meaning all I had to do was try and reassemble the pronged bit with the rest again. After much swearing, this was achieved, and then the long job of rebuilding the vent takes. I attached some photos I took during the process, I hope you can make sense of them.

I took my 280 round the ring. First in real life lap for me. Elevation changes is nuts. Busy session. Win because car still in one piece.

They’ve got a lot larger database of roads for sure. To me it seems a more comprehensive service. TrafficMaster have been struggling for a number of years and probably have been winding down their service with quality probably suffering as a result.

I'd be surprised if it didn't... I used it on pretty much everything black on both cars and that would have included the roof bars on my FILs tourer. I think i have a tiny bit left still so if i get the chance I'll try it on a hidden part of the bars on the kodiaq

Thanks for the many helpful replies. As it turned out, the new car did have a spare, although the dealer hasn't listed it on the spec, so it wasn't an issue in the end. I hope I didn't waste your time, and I expect the info here will be useful for others. Martin

MOBY also sounds good

SW 1941 is the latest update, so they DID install a SW update on your car. Updating OTA is normal after the installation of 1941, it's been mentioned several times on the other topic ("Infotainment reboot"). Since you have the latest SW, it would also be a good idea to update the Maps - yours are more than 3 years old; latest version is 22.12, released 23.06.

Been driving it a fair bit since. Racking up the miles. Gone through a few tanks on it now. Calculated my mpg to be 35mpg on the dot, not bad considering it's on e10, and I've been driving it as I would. Given its got a 35L tank, brimmed I have an effective range of about 270 miles. Took it down to Mondello last Sunday for drift games. Did try to get in to the car show in it and ofcourse got a polite but firm "no". Went down anyway on the Sunday. Was miserable weather. Did well keeping up with traffic, 70-80mph on the motorway, which doesn't sound like a lot but cause of the gearing it was sitting between 4-4500 rpm at that. Drove absolutely fine. No shaking. No vagueness etc. Only concern is the temp gauge but I have a sender ordered. Whether it comes or not, who knows. Good stuff at driftgames. Still looked "clean" given the weather. Only annoyance was that the sheen on the bumpers washed off so they looked chalky grey by the end of it. Driving away at it anyway. JPCCNI is this Sunday and it's ""in"" on a reserve ticket. Have an e-mail saying that I should show up between 8-9 am incase a spot opens up. I get the impression it's being displayed outside in anycase, but I couldn't well be wrong and it might just get ****ed out if no spots open up. Nonetheless I washed it and I'm gonna give it a thorough clean ahead of it. Retrorides is on the 11th-13th and if this doesn't break down I'll be taking it. If not I'll still go in the monte. Few small things I want to do to it before then. Firstly flush the brakes, as the fluid looks like this. Brakes feel absolutely fine, yet to have an issue with boiling them or anything. But I never did it, it's obviously not been since long before it went off the road so I may do it now. Secondly I'll change the coolant as it is also quite old. Again not had an issue with it yet, but I want to do as much as possible to have it good to go. Need to think about spares too. I'll be bringing a full toolkit, spare carb rebuild kit. Spare set of points, spare plugs, spare fuel filter just in case, I'll swap them again before I go too. Anyone have any advice on what I may be missing? On the topic of that. I've been changing the inline filter before the carb every once in a while. It'll run clear for ages before bringing up a chunk of gunk from God knows where. Filters doing its job seemingly and its never much. Hope all goes well but want to be as prepared as possible.

Nice mods and you’ve gotta love a sleeper. Similar journey for mine. Came from a modded diesel 4x4 superb. Had to have the 272. lowered on H&R with koni special actives. Racingline elbow, muffler delete, R600, silicone hose, GFBDV+ mapped by TVS engineering in the Netherlands. Including their stage2+ dsg map. Also Zimmerman formula z discs upfront and drilled coat z on the back h&r arb kit next and super pro bottom arms. Was the arb east to fit, did you have to drop the subframe. I also have a Racingline subframe alignment kit to fit so will probs do at same time.

Great story and build! Mine is at 350bhp and I would love to test it on the autobahn one day! Have fun!

Otherwise, small satisfaction of last week-end: nice detailing of the cabin of Moby **** (that's the little nick name of my car, since it looks like the big whit whale 😁). Quite happy to see my Superb sooo clean! BTW, it gave me the opportunity to compare "Sprayabale Leather conditioner and cleaner" from Chemical guys (which I used on my wife's Q3 a week before) and "Gold Class" from Meguiars' which I used for my Superb. Finally, I think I prefer Meguiars' regarding the final aspect, since it almost doesn't modify the appearance. Leathers remain quite mat, as if they were coming straight from the assembly line. Considering now the nourishing and protection effects, errr... I would be very annoyed to try telling which is the more efficient. Some pics of the cleaning : After cleaning with only soapy water : A nice mat aspect, close to its appearance when coming out from assembly line the steering wheel is a bit too shiny though. I had a better result on my wife's Q3 a week ago... After applying Meguiars' Gold class: Moby **** still looks good though 97500km and almost 6 years on the clock.

Hellaflush. NSFW

Just noticed you guys have a 2020 and 2021 Kodiaq. Has the software update been applied to your systems? The problematic software affected early MIB3 equipped units. Your Skoda dealers should be aware of this. In their wisdom Skoda didn't contact owners rather contacted dealers and said 'apply this if there's a problem'. Such an inefficient way to run an operation.

Here she is😎 Will post more pics later on.

Well...Having just done my first ever lap of the Nurburgring TF.... I will say that there is enough power in stock form for the 280. Brakes are OK too, albeit I have a new set of discs and pad but nothing fancy. Stock size and ATE ceramic pads. The suspension is not keeping up, I do not have DCC. I do have Michelin PSS tyres. Still very fun and scary at the same time. I also saw a CZ plate 280 there. Wonder if it's a member here.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-highway-code/annex-6-vehicle-maintenance-safety-and-security Then Vehicle Maintenance. Looking again, this relates to what is above not below. My Bad. Thanks. AG Falco

Worked a dream on 2016 model using OBDeleven. 15 changed to 14, reset and have traffic alerts.

These actually look really good & from my preferred website PneuExperte.ch they are 124CHF each (7.0 ET40 R17) The Borbet Ys are 142CHF each Do you understand why the Borbet V is given TuV "OEM" status where as the Y which is available in exactly the same dimensions is not? The other wheels that I am concidering at the moment are from AEZ TIOGA 17" but they are a bit more at 184CHF (still 50% cheaper than the OEM wheels though) AEZ TIOGA 17" Borbet V 17" Borbet Y 17"

Maybe I´m too « old school » but I don’t feel comfortable with the idea of improving engine power and torque without increasing braking performance. If you do guys, that’s fine.

Is it my imagination or does Inrix provide more traffic info than Trafficmaster did? I seem to lots more local road works details with temporary control lights and narrow lane notifications to mention a couple of items.

This is a well known common fault on all EA111 engines of this era. (1.2/1.4tsi) The chain drive design is poor, the chains stretch (the link joints wear so effective pitch/length increases) plus the tensioner is also poor and backs off when the engine rotation momentarily reverses as sometimes when engine stops (piston on compession stroke pushes back) and often will occur if you park on a hill in gear, as the return (tensioned) side pushes the tensioner beyond the internal retaining spring capability and the oil is pushed out. The chain then remains slack hanging down off the bottom sprocket not fully engaged. So, if needed, always park in reserve gear if facing uphill or 1st gear if facing downhill. The rattling takes its toll on the sprockets so they can become worn too. Very common for chain then to skip or even fall off with little or no notice, usually when starting the car. So I'm afraid theres no alternative but to change the chain ( complete kit with tensioner, guides and top/bottom sprockets) I've had 2 changes on a 1.2 tsi engine, similar engine/job, at 55k miles then 120k. The first change cost about £350, the second time around £550. Both done at my Skoda dealer (so includes 2 yr unlimited Skoda warranty) Other people I hear get quoted around £700. Get it done and you will be good for at least another 60k miles. Cheaper than suddendly having a scrapped engine/car. https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=6

Yes, but I’m not sure I’d want to do one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDnt8N_0X5o

On the bumpers try some GTechniq C4. I used it on the black trim on two Civics (my old Mk8 and my FILs Mk9) and it brought them up a treat from that sort of condition and lasted a few years. It's expensive but if the trim is cleaned with isopropyl alcohol before the C4 is applied it seems to work and last really well. Plus it's a nice matt natural finish rather than false shiny black like some stuff is.

Yes it is a very fiddly job to do. I'm pleasantly surprised that I actually managed to complete it without breaking anything for a change, my hands are extra large and there are just so many clips that need to be manipulated at the same time in order to release their grip. These things are only ever designed to be easy to assemble from sub assemblies, they were never designed to be pulled apart again, thinking that if anything were to fail, the dealers would simply buy and fit a complete new vent assembly at god knows what price and bill the end user, ouch ☹️ I have now had to remove the rear, centre dash and right dash vents and strip down and repair them. Thank goodness I managed to that and the only cost was these useless Chinese tabs I sourced thinking that they might just do the job. My impression of the OEM vents is that they are overengineered and as such are very easy to break. It seems to be a common problem judging by what others say, indeed, I had 2 in my car that the previous oner managed to break, the 3rd was just a case of one of the vanes becoming unattached from the bar that connects them all together, so they all move as one. Thankfully in the case of the tabs, all the parts that were broken off, were still laying in the vent, behind the horizontal slats and had not fallen down the air pipes 👍

I hate to quote myself, but more details on the other topic - below... Link for Skoda Update Portal: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Read several posts from the link above... Most of us are not using the Skoda navigation (I don't even have the navigation paid for), it's for the car's management/settings in the background - parameters that you don't adjust while driving.

It was the outside of the rear doors, yes. They tend to bubble up from under the paint - probably 'road rash' as the cause, but there's lots in the archive here about how the doors were originally treated. Its definitely the weak spot, but last year's workshop visit cost a fair £250 for a rear door respray and a new plastic film for the rear door/arch edge. I can live with that now and again because Yetis have very few failings. Bilt Hamber stuff is great. Try that carnuba infused wax twice a year. Has won the Auto Express awards for years, and isnt priced like a beauty cream!

If you are carrying points then carry a few spare condensors but dont be tempted to replace the original with one of them unless it fails (engine will start but not pick up revs or un under load), most new ones are either dead on arrival or only last a short while hence the advice to buy several. Also feeler blades in your toolkit which you probably already have, points shutting down was the major cause of old school engines going out of tune, it reduces the dwell angle resulting in a weak spark and retards the ignition.

Don't keep deferring updates they're free and there for a reason. I've had a second one and everything is still fine.

My 220 is doing 530Nm at the wheels. I'm running an APR Stage 1 Hi-torque ECU tune, paired with a DSG tune.

I've ordered Octavia Style 1.5 mHEV in 27/02/2022 in Lithuania. received the car on 07/21/2023 happy

I used a different email when I setup a new account after deleting the old one. Still have the same issue. The car is not aware of any changes and isn’t connected/connecting to Škoda Care Connect.

I'd tackle it if I was you. I've just had to replace the steel cover on the front and side of my gearbox on a 2013 2.0 VRS as the rust had made a pinhole the oil was leaking out of!

Give it some Hammerite!

At that point you've already damaged the compressor or at least caused it to wear prematurely.

In total agreement....my is on all the time & have never had any issues , okay it probably uses more fuel,but to me its worth it 😉

The car will tell you when it needs a service. Get the air con done when it's no longer cold. £139 for something that doesn't need doing is typical dealer behaviour. Pretty sure my MkIII Octavia never had an aircon service in 10 years.

AC should be left on all the time. it is air conditioning so it cools, cleans and dehumidifies the air. auto will regulate the fan speed and flap positions to maintain the temperature you have asked for. Generally it should be always on auto and ac

I have a spare Bolero which was originally fitted to my 2012 Octavia II. If you are near to Stockport and can pick it up you are welcome to borrow it to test whether it solves your battery drain problem. I do not know what year your car is but I seem to remember that fitting a later model radio to an earlier model car without updating the BCM will result in battery drain as @J.R. has said so it is worth checking that fitting my spare radio will not also drain your battery even though it worked correctly in my car.

If it is not sending the correct "hand off" signal (I just made that up!) to the canbus gateway it in turn will not shut down and I reckon that is what actually is draining your battery, it happens on that age of vehicle when fitting aftermarket stereos, it shouldnt with a factory Bolero unit but we both think yours is faulty, I think though the drain will be from the Can Gateway controller. If I am correct then wiring it directly to the ignition will not resolve the problem but it costs you nothing but time to try and it will help track down the fault.

@haz0r @stripy007 @tomiss @Dillers @AdiKX @florian_ @SvenIngvarsson check your inboxes. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS on page 26 kindly put up by @TheWanderer

Yeti won't be replaced by any aboard this ship. Edit: Porsche have lost 1,117 cars on the ship, Audi claimed a loss of 1,944 vehicles, Bentley lost 189, Lamborghini lost 85, and Volkswagen lost 561 cars.

So... What's next? The RacingLine catalogue of intake goodies: - RacingLine R600 foam intake - RacingLine Silicone hose - RacingLine Turbo inlet Elbow - RacingLine Turbo Muffler delete IMG_6702.HEIC Installation was quite doable for someone who works on a computer behind a desk, with only a little bit of wrenching experience. Installing the turbo muffler delete was a pain in the ass, but mostly because of the available space in the and not wanting to remove the battery didn't help in that matter... But other than that, quite a doable mod on your driveway. After the intake, it was off to the tuner to free some of that 2.0tsi horsies that were just waiting to be set loose! After some research I settled on Tuning Service Huizen. These guys are specialized in VAG and BMW, even though they also tune other brands. Before making an appointment I went by to have a chat with them on how they work and tune. Their approach and way of working ("I don't like talking in stages, even though I have to put stages and figures on my website to sell, I just look at what a car can comfortably make. I much rather have a car that does 300hp with good reliability and more important drivability, then have 322hp and put everything on the edge of what's possible") as well as some of their comments (make sure you have new spark plugs installed before coming over, so that there won't be any issues in that department) made me choose them for the tuning of the car. The car started off as a very "happy" car, as the guys at Tuning Service told me. Not only produced the car much more hp and Nm than stock (nearly 296hp and 370nm, a common thing with detuned 2.0tsis but also the RacingLine intake was credited), all the logs showed it was just a very happy and eager engine. Good stuff! After some 0s and 1s, a few runs and bit more fiddling, a very surprising result came out of it: 381,6hp and 473,2Nm! (engine power) And that with a (for the Netherlands) higher ambient temperature (nearly 24 C), so in fall/winter it will even be a bit more. Especially the mountain-range of torque available already at 2750rpm and the high max power really pleased the guys as Tuning Service as well as myself of course. 71041643783__527E68B6-0691-46FF-8D46-E3443B36FCBA.heic The result is a rocketship on wheels, it's just phenomenal! I can't wait for the first time I'm lined up at a traffic light next to a GTI, R or S3, and I'll maybe even try the odd S4, 340i or C43 to play with! Especially the Superb still looking like the umpteenth 1500cc, zero to 60 in minutes, daddy needs space, company car and not showing its performance potential really excites me. Last weekend I spent a weekend in Germany (hello unrestricted Autobahns!) and let the Superb loose for a bit, unfortunately did not have the chance for a full top-speed run (traffic and sometime quite strong cross-winds), but having to let off at 276kph indicated (265 gps) is still mightily impressive. With how fast it was still accelerating, I would say it should do 290kph indicated at least! And seeing a pushy Mercedes S500 disappear in the rear view mirror of your Skoda Superb is just priceless...😂 For now (at least) that's where the modding ends. I have some things planned still, both in the performance department as well as the practical department, so will keep you all posted!

Remove the A pillar trims, if it wasn’t for a little bit of water on dash I’d have never thought it was the windscreen

ACC is the best thing about the car (except for the overtaking undertaking glitch). All you need is a good understanding of what is a safe distance to the car in front or better anticipation of the road ahead so you can drive in the appropriate lane. All things a good driver should be able to do ACC or no ACC.

... There's three over £19k all 17 reg at Skoda dealers. One 1.2 auto is £19,980.

My MK1 Octavia was vandalised by someone from the airbus factory throwing a pot of 2 pack resin across the bonnet which splashed up the screen, roof, side windows and door panels. It was just about cured when I noticed, acetone removed some from the paintwork but most was too far gone and it was removing the OE paint so I let it harden for a week before mechanically removing what I could. The screens were the easiest because as long as you dont use abrasive compounds they wont be damaged, a brillo pad is quite safe but is not doing the business for you. I used a scraper that I have which takes a razor blade and is intended for removing carbonised deposits from ceramic hobs or paint from windows, that should cut through whatever schmoo you have on your screen perhaps followed with one of those aluminium swarf scouring pads. The reason my car was vandalised is that someone had parked across my drive, their drivers window was cracked open slightly and I was carrying a full watering can when I saw the vehicle, it seemed like God or providence was guiding me! 😄

At some stage we are all going to have to make the change from our Yeti to another vehicle. It is interesting that almost everyone who has a Yeti is finding it difficult to find a better alternative. The Service manager at the dealer I use said the same - they have many Yeti owners who previously changed their cars at 4-5 year intervals who seem to be holding on to their Yeti’s. I really don’t need a larger car but like the elevated driving position and, well, just the convenience and drive of the Yeti. Only alternative I can see at the moment is the VW T-Cross and am hoping they improve the cabin etc. in the facelift model due later this year. Kia Soul is nice but I am not prepared to go electric at this stage.

They will not employ actual detailers to prep a 'Used or even new car' & apply the product that cost them very little. It is their valeters / cleaners or contractor. Get any money back that you paid them for this 'special product' that you got as part of the deal but you actually paid for as they have the 'cost' on their costs before sale when paying tax on profits. I used to prep cars for sales using the products that cost under £30 and were under an hours labour and were showing as £300 plus.

It is probably the rocker cover (in old speak) cam cover, cam bridge or what ever in new speak. I doubt retorqueing bolts will do anything now, but should be no harm in trying. Unless it is really bad or causing vacuum leak issues I would leave it. There is no gasket just VW high temp / oil resistant but leaks anyway expensive £££ sealant used. And yes, as @Rileysport says, it is a big job. Not like an OHC cam cover on my old 73 Datsun 240z where you could take 10 or 12 bolts out mount new gasket and be done in 20 minutes. It is not like that, the cam bridge cover supports the cam bearing towers and runs deep down into the spark plug wells. It is quite a big dismantle and re-assembly job.