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135 miles covered now, so that's 13.5% towards the running in target of 1000 miles. I have the "Rollhard" show coming up this coming weekend, so I need to have a couple of evenings this week getting it cleaned to within an inch of it's life. Display ramps are away being powdercoated Rall6029 Skoda Mint green and I "may" have bought a display mirror to show off it's undersides.... it's all got very out of hand. One thing I'll need to address in the next few weeks is the exhaust tailpipe. Quite simply the OE style of oval tailpipe, coupled with the bigger fuel injector nozzles is making me all twitchy on a long run with soot deposits on the tailgate, so i'll dig out the downswept tailpipe I made back in 2019, and find a local trusted exhaust specialist who can complete the missing piece to fit to the car. This is what it looks like, and i've already modified the heat shield, rear panel and rear bumper to fit it nice and high so you'll not see the whole thing hanging down. I have mocked it up before and it's nice and subtle, well as subtle as a 3" brushed stainless steel pipe can be... More soon weary readers.

I took my 280 round the ring. First in real life lap for me. Elevation changes is nuts. Busy session. Win because car still in one piece.

Well, it's finally time to say goodbye to my trusty Fabia after 10 'interesting' years. Collecting my replacement 2013 Peugeot 107 tomorrow. *pics now removed*

Fresh after fall out iron cleansing and ceramic coating😎

Don't think I will bother wasting my time.

@SkinnerooWho are you telling, Skoda CZ who know about the issue, or Skoda / VW UK that could not care less? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/468348-fuel-rail-leak/page/10

Nice looking car. Just get the most watertight warranty you can when you buy.

Looks spot on to me. Good work in saving the ABS sensor as well, they're usually a casualty in these jobs. I've replaced front wheel bearings before on my Black vRS, howled like a banshee but no discernable side to side play at the wheel. A tidy job all round me thinks, having the right tools certainly helps as well. A couple of pics when I built the new front hubs up for my Yellow vRS, you'll see the retaining ring just about visible and the proximity of the ABS sensor to the back of the pick up ring.

Moby is pas only the first part of its nick name. The second part has been blanked by the forum protection against nasty words 🙄. But it’s really the name of the white whale from the Herman Melville novel.

The trick to removing vac pipes is to push them, rather than pull them. So get a flat screwdriver in between the end and the flat plastic face and twist to push the end away. Go at it from a few angles and it should start to move.

Variable vane turbo needs a Mr Muscle Enema.

And another pictures..

Hi.. thank you for link.. Update was smoth.. all went OK.. Just for others.. maybe before update turn Climate to OFF. For me it started in the middle of update, which can drain Accu. much faster.. but my car survived 👍 Also after update new SW update was instantly found and installed. Some pictures..

Here she is😎 Will post more pics later on.

someone has changed the splash screen as the superb didn’t come in a VRS model. Some of the options are skoda, sportline, L&K, vrs, canton and a few more variants

Also consider sourcing a used full length plastic under tray as I'm sure some models come with full length trays

I don't think it's rust from the car panels. It's probably rust from the iron fallout. As the car was shipped by rail, you'll get iron fallout. It's the same type of fallout seen on wheels from brake disk iron fallout. However, I'd be surprised if the dealer had the time to properly decontaminate the car prior to delivery with claying and fallout remover......

I would tell VOSA though, as should everyone else that has had this issue which is certainly 'Safety Critical' and should have had Skoda / VW taking action about with a Voluntary Recall as a minimum, but as time goes past it should be a RECALL with VOSA / DVLA providing Registered Keepers details to VW UK.

Hello Mikke, that is a very disappointing pre-delivery inspection.

I think I am going to buy the car. I only got the price down a little bit £19179.00 I scared but I really like it and it has been looked after..🙂

Both Kodiaq’s I’ve had had the same random rear wipe when it was raining, and more often than not, wiping a dry rear screen resulting in a screech. The only way to stop the rear wiper doing this on the Kodiaq is to untick the rear wipe when reversing option. It just means you have to flick the rear wipe as and when required. I would imagine the Superb is similar.

Sadly not, although Google Maps does so I'm not surprised that Apple Maps does too. I would really like it if I could get Waze (or Google Maps) to display the whole map etc in the VC the way the built-in satnav can. Then we could use the Infotainment screen to choose music and keep navigation directly in front of me. If the built-in SatNav was any good, I'd probably use it just because of that, but of all the navigation options I have (that plus Waze, Google and Apple) it's the least good, so I don't.

At no time have I advised anyone to do anything which could result in a potentially lethal electric shock. I politely ask you to withdraw that remark. My advice was to make sure that BerkCo knew for certain what the wire was before they bolted it to the vehicle frame. I am exceedingly happy that they did this, and can now confidently have the wire connected. Anyone reading this thread will see that. My mistake was posting my thoughts as to whether such a vehicle ground was required for a mains connected engine block heater straying into your 240v territory for you to post a patronising explanation as to why it was required in your usual self righteous tone, rather than just explaining. All the best, I’m glad it is sorted 😀.

I should thank you guys. I have read some comments on swedish forums about those external heaters shorting and causing seirous damage to people, hospitalizing people. I will not plug the system until the mechanic grounds it, i can assure you of that.

Hi,Mine ranges depending on use.Usually between 40ish to mid fifties.If i keep speed down it can go up to early 60.s This has been the most economical car i have owned so far.I do a lot of town driving,so stop /start with some dual carriageway thrown in.Cheers Andy

Are you 100% certain that nobody perhaps under previous ownership has mucked around trying to disable the EGR system, most likely with a blanking plate with a metered hole to pass some air to fool the ECU.

There should be a weight plate fixed to the B-pillar that you should be able to see when the driver's door is open. Take a photo of that to see the maximum axle weights, as it's easier to see the details on a computer screen. If you've got 235/45R20 tyres, 2.2Bar (32psi) in all four tyres can support over 2,000kg. Pumping them up to 2.7Bar (39psi) front and 3.2(46psi) rear can support over 2,600kg, (ie. over 1,200kg on the front axle, and over 1,400kg on the rear axle). If you're not carrying much weight in the back perhaps try 35psi front and 32psi rear. This can support over 1,000kg on the front axle and about 1,100kg on the rear axle, for a total weight of over 2,100kg. Excessive tyre pressures is sometimes used to improve handling. However, I expect this is more to do with driving flat out around a smooth racetrack, and not day to day driving on the UK's bumpy and potholed filled roads.

I hadn't been to Scotland for a while, so decided to get up there this weekend to try to escape the heat a little bit. The plan worked, it was 30C at home, and 17C, with a nice breeze (as you can see from the tent flapping a bit) up here. It is a damn good looking car!

Thanks for that. I can now see what I had previously missed: when you press the control wheel, little green arrows appear above and below the dial and I've always then used the wheel to switch between different displays within the dial but what I hadn't realised or noticed is that sometimes there's a green arrow pointing to the right or left, which takes you into sub-options as explained the quote from the manual that Jorgeminator copied above. In the case of Settings, you can then get into a list of various options. Previously I thought all the arrow keys below the wheel did was switch between different instrument display formats - I hadn't thought to press them when the green arrows were showing. So, "Settings" I can access and understand. "Backgrounds" I think we can probably agree is pointless. So I'm left with "Apple CarPlay", which doesn't have any sub-options and doesn't seem to do anything useful other than display the state of my phone battery and network connection. As I use CarPlay almost all the time to show Waze on the main screen, I was hoping this option might do something really useful for me - but I don't think it does. Anyway, thanks very much for the replies, which have helped me resolve a minor loose end that has been puzzling me ever since I got the car.

Yes, I would use the recommended higher pressures if *fully* loaded. The figures aren’t unusually high, nowadays. My E-class Mercedes requires 39 psi all round for just me in it, and my van runs at recommended 75 psi.

I think you've misunderstood my post. A MOT only checks a small subset of what's required to make a car road-legal. To check everything would take considerable time and would cost significantly more. At no point did I say a LED swap would fail a MOT and I completely agree with your MOT bloke that 4.1.4 (c) Light source and lamp not compatible only applies to headlights, therefore any other lamp should not fail a MOT solely on a halogen to LED swap. Despite current MOT guidelines, a LED drop-in conversion does not meet the requirements for either the very outdated "Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989" or current ECE regulations which means it's not road-legal. It's really that simple. This article from an LED seller makes the same point despite it's focus on headlights : https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/blog/are-led-headlights-legal-in-the-uk/ Progress is being made where Philips (and other manufactures?) are pushing for changes with progress in Korea, Germany and Austria. Meaning there are now some approved LED conversions but you need specific luminaire plus LED combinations based on what Philips tested and certified. In time, I expect the same will be legal in the UK... It's your car so fit whatever you want, I've used LED conversions previously. Anyone wanting to fit LED drop-in kits should still be aware they are not road-legal even if an MOT allows for them

@HeavyMetalRich thanks Rich. I did check the mechanism using the method above, that’s when I noticed that once pulled to the open position the latch wouldn’t return as it was sticking. After a clean and grease I actuated it a few times with a screwdriver to loosen it up.

Correct but I'm sure @carefree didn't mean anything but that for red lights

Y’wot? Even your tyres?? 😳

This might be of help:

If, more likely when, we come down to one car, the frontrunner, for me, is the Toyota Corolla Touring Sports. We've several locally that are Taxi's. I've always liked A3's, I think pretty much in all their iterations. Gaz

Yeah i can help

Just because a mechanic installed the pads doesn't mean the job has been done correctly, worth checking again to make sure everything is installed as it should be. https://www.bendix.com.au/news-events/technical-bulletin-brake-noise-depth---causes-and-prevention

He was lucky with that one, many are riveted instead of bolted and they are a pain to drill out

Hello. It's a Optibeam Super Captain Dual 800, 766mm wide so 30" i guess. Don't know the ref but it's measured to 30900 lumens in boostmode which i use. Okey yeah i've had some kind of extra lights on all cars since many years back, can't be without it once you tried 😄 Live in middle of Sweden so not dark yet, a couple of months left until it's dark from 15:30 in the afternoon until 7 in the morning 😝 I've seen the difference between stock xenonbulbs with 4-5 years on them and when changed to Osram Nightbreaker or Philips X-tremeVision and it's quite a big difference what i've seen and heard from people who made the change. Hehe yeah if i meet someone who doesn't turn the highbeams off i can flash them a bit 🙃 Haha yeah it will do for now, had more power in the lights on my previous car so would be nice with some more 😝 Maybe next year 🙃

Charge the battery first using a smart main charger. Thanks. AG Falco

The Fabia has been out and about, attended the Oddly titled "Wheels on Wednesday" car meet on Sunday (go figure) in Worcestershire last weekend. It's the furthest it's been driven in many years so i'm still nervous when driving it, listening for every noise and sniffing for every smell. Car drove fine of course and was parked up in amongst the Hot (???) hatch section. Got a fair bit of interest but to many it's just a clean Fabia with yellow wheels. The many small details take a while to see and appreciate. I have a few jobs to do on her now though. The steering tie rods need changing as there is slight play in them, so I have new genuine TPS supplied parts to go on, and then I'm going to give the entire car a thorough spanner check to make sure everything is tight. This is more for my own peace of mind as anything else. Once I have done the tie rods, I'll take it for a front wheel alignment as well, even though I think it's pretty close as it is, it'll need doing to be sure. Then it's just a case of more miles on it. Done 75 so far, so that's 7.5% run in now.

Thank you for all the kind words. Ross (tech1e) asked me to post the pics on the Facebook group "Fabia Owners Club" and the response was great from all the people on there. First big show is "Rollhard", I didn't think the Fabia would be interesting enough for them to have on display, especially considering the level of other modified cars but here we are... Looks like it'll be on display on Sunday 6th August at Bicester Heritage. Can't wait.

Cheers Gaz. First thing my mate said when I sent him the pic was "Tailpipe is wonky" Cruel Ba**ard. 😝

You took it outside! Blimey, if I had a car that nice, I'd only want to drive it on freshly vacuumed Wilton or Axminster carpet 😎 Looks jubbly btw 👍👍 Gaz

I've just had the same issue with an Octavia IV vRS wagon. I was approaching the vehicle and about 10m away when the alarm started sounding. The alarm continued sounding for about 20-30 seconds, then stopped for maybe 5 seconds, then started again. Rinse, repeat, for about 10 minutes in total. Nothing I tried would stop it, including repeatedly locking and unlocking the car, popping the hood, and starting the car - it just continued while the engine ran! I was on the phone to Skoda Assist when it finally stopped, not because of anything I'd done. A roadside mechanic later inspected the car and provided me with a list of faults he pulled from the OBD II. They include: - 4 faults with engine control module 1 - 1 fault with the transmission electronics - 4 faults with the brakes - 2 faults with the air con - 3 faults with "electronic central electric" (whatever that is) - 4 faults with the instrument cluster - 4 faults with the "gateway" - 2 faults with the brake booster - 1 fault with the steering column locking - 1 fault with the passenger's door electronics - 2 faults with information electronics 1 - 2 faults with parking assistance - 1 fault with front sensor for driver's assistant systems - 2 faults with "interface for access/start system" - 1 fault with door electronics rear passenger side The car is 22 months old, has never been in an accident, and has done 8k miles / 13k km.

I put 650,000kms on an Octavia 2.0tdi (140) DSG

Just to update the ongoing situation. After 5-6 minutes the alarm stopped then started again, all the same scenario with not being able to stop it sounding no matter what I tried. Then after another 5-6 minutes it stopped again probably because it has a time out function. I called Skoda Assist and they arrived within the hour, the alarm not having gone off again. The man plugged in his computer and it brought up a fault on the siren. He re-booted the alarm system until it showed no faults, and since then (4 days) the alarm has not gone off. One thing he told me was that the little red warning light on the door that shows when the alarm is set, also can show a fault in the alarm system. When you arm the alarm, the light should start flashing straight away, but if a fault is detected, the light will stay static red for a few seconds before starting to flash. If that happens you can expect a problem.

+1, I got similar ones from AliExpress, but with silver edging. The quality is really good, and the paddle shift/click is really solid, even at the tips!

I recently bought this from aliexpress, very good quality