Leaderboard

No there were closed because of cut backs in council spending. There are toilets that you pay to go in and are well cared for. There are ones that the community have taken on to look after. Thankfully. The North Coast 500 is really pathetic. The Highland Council say how much it brings to the economy. Put in Toll roads then. Provide facilities. Use income from the Crown Estate of which they get plenty. Have a crap on King Charles. Free Gratis. Actually paying £2 to get into a loo surely is better than what people are having to do now to get a sh-it. The Automated toilets were often in the wrong place at the wrong time, but at a park and ride / charging hub. tram stop type location is just simply clever.

I remember the last time someone posted editted dashcam footage on here to supposedly demonstrate their innocense, I'm afraid I was amongst those that gave a rather forthright contrary opinion, they have gone very quiet since, I wonder which driver was considered liable or if it went knock for knock? One thing is for sure, they will both get shafted at renewal time, there is no such thing as a no blame party when it comes to policy renewal, only a captive audience to be exploited 😒

Sounds like you go from charge station to charge station just putting in the minimum to see if you can se faire draguer anyone 😀 Less harmful than smoking to do the same! It certainly sounds very social being an early adopter, make the most because it will surely change in time sadly.

@lol-lolNo problem getting speed, just charging speed. Just odd how many are out driving EV,s that say 'my partner or my son know all about charging' and quite clearly do not. Yesterday it was a lady with her daughters & son that she had bought a MG4 for and could not get her CPS card to start a 22 kW post that just charges at 3.6 kW to start. I asked if she wanted the 50 DC / CCS or the 22 AC charger as i was finished. She said that they told her at the Arnold Clark Innovation Centre Glasgow not to use those as they cost too much and ruined the battery. I told her that they were free and perfect for her need. Showed her children the Apps, what the symbols meant and explained charging. They were really not pleased at the people at Arnold Clark having told them nothing about anything useful. I suggest telling the management and all their friends and anyone interested. ................ Much cheapness.

It would seem that, for whatever reason, you are a driver who ends up in accidents more than the average driver, and sadly the insurers adjust your premium based on the risk they rather crudely determine you to be. It might be possible to get a better quote from a particular broker who may take into account the fact that the accidents were not your fault. (It'd be nice to see the dashcam footage of them to be honest, but I'm a nosey so and so.) What grinds my gears, is that my wife, who is not the best driver and in her worst year managed to write off two cars in the space of 12 months, still has a reducing impact on my premium if I add her as a named driver to my policy.

If done correctly, yes. The shafts are locked at the water pump end and the pulleys are allowed to freewheel until after the belt is tensioned

From handbook, two sizes are quoted. I can't quite remember the alternative, but my 04 TDI was fitted with origonal makers boots when I got it as 185/60/14 . Few years ago , daughter scrapped a Laguna with 4 good 185/65/14 , and I got them sooner than me fitting news/worn at wrong time of year. Since then I've kept to that as it seems to handle better. Strangely my speedo is pretty muck ok, as checked on Sat nav. AP as said, I prefer ride and handling on 185/65/14.

I stopped to charge at Stirling Castle view park and ride and 3 rapids available. I got on the middle one which gives 52 kW while either side gives just 26 kW. On the old original charger a lady was on the AC charging a Kia EV6. I asked her if there was an issue and this was her 4th attempt to charge and she could not speed. I suggested she used CCS and 50 kW charging but she said she had no plug for that just the AC. She had to get to Dundee and charge and back home but her husband did the driving and charging. She went on the rapid to try and I showed her how the plug went in once she removed the cover. The car got only 26 kW so we stopped it and she went on the charger I was on and got 52 kW speed. The car had 11% battery when we first spoke and was at 25% when I left. She was putting Tesla non Tesla on her phone to charge in Dundee. I went into Achterarder to use the toilet and charge to 100%. Chargers available. 52 kW speed. Public toilets seasonal opening and this is not the season. It is a busy busy town with good shops. This is really a nonsense in Scotland especially in tourist areas but any area needs public toilets.

Unless you really have to, don't fit a single mass to a Fabia vRS. The noise is simply awful. No nice way of putting it, it sounds like all the bearings have failed in the gearbox and people will point and stare.

Some screen caps trying out my new lens - Samyang 135mm f2 - 22. on a Canon Eos 250D. All at 30 seconds. Various ISO. Using a Skywatcher Star Adventurer GTI tracking mount and a dew heater on the camera lens. Vega baby! With Bahtinov mask on And without Tail end of our galaxy the Milky Way Milky Way with a (very) quick touch up in Windows native app Andromeda galaxy and another behind it. And Pleiades (damned power lines)

Further developments with the keys. I thought it would be a good idea to fit the keys with new Duracells to pre empt any problems in the future with dead batteries. After replacing the batteries, I thought I would try the keys to see if they would unlock the doors, which they wouldn't. However, after I'd put the key in the ignition and turned it , I took the key out and without thinking pressed one of the buttons on the key and it worked. Same thing with the spare key, wouldn't work to lock/unlock the doors, until the key had been turned in the ignition, it would not lock/unlock the doors. Thought this might bevof interest to anyone in the future with a similar problem.

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/skoda-confirms-octavia-sized-electric-estate-car-2026 my main thoughts… really interesting and I’d love an octavia as I do miss mine. It could do with touching the magic 400 miles for a real world >300 winter miles. Also I know it’s up to 200kW… but why go 400V not 800V. if it’s RWD, please add AWD options.

Just out of interest... I've been dealing with my immediate families insurance for 40years and extended families insurance for what must be 30 years now. Pre internet and comparison site days, I'd call all the brokers to get the best insurance deal. It use to take a good few days to accumulate quotes. Over that time I thought I knew most of the tricks to get a better deal - I'm your sterotypical Scot One thing has been consistant tho, there's never been any formula that says one car is cheaper to insure than another apart from the goldern rule - an automatic was more to insure than a manual. Take two cars exactly the same - one manual, one auto and the auto would be more expensive to insure. ( I'd have thought it would have been the other way round but statistically Autos must be more expensive for an insurer ). One myth is that insurance is based on a car's group rating. I never found that to be the case in all of those 40 years. A car that's in a higher insurance group is often cheaper to insure than one in a lower group. I've never been able to work out the purpose of insurance groups other than say an age restirction when renting a car. The fact below support this. Oh Boy, do they support it ! So move on to 2023. I'm gobsmacked by what's happeing right now in the insurance industry. If anyone tells you it's because this, that or the other then they're liars. I doubt even the insurer themselves know, I think it's likely all down to some algorithem their computers use. Picking up from another thread, the insurance form my Kodiaq last year was £330 and the renewal is £366. I've checked around and the cheapest quote with another insurer is £425. The prices then go skyward. The majority are in the £650 - £750 range. RBS Direct line was approaching £1000. Saga? they quoted me over £1200 😲 I've never seen such a range of prices all for what is basically the same level of insurance cover. The 'big guns' such as Churchill were quoting £700, Esure £650. Rarely do I use the same insurer 2yrs in a row but it's not unheard of for me to stick with the renewal - obviously that's a no brainer this year. But before I do, I thought I'd run a little experiment. If the renwals have jumped so much for my Kodiaq - what would it have been like for other cars I've owned or almost bought? So using Confused.com as the standard and keeping everything consistant other than the car itself, the results are: Kodiaq Sportline 1.5 auto 3yr old, valued £27k ( ins grp 17E ) - Flow Insurance - £425.75 What if I'd still been driving my old car. The Octavia was actually cheap to insure, I paid a fraction over £200 a year. Octavia 1.4 SEL estate manual 6yr old, valued 11k ( 17E ) - Flow insurance - £448.36 Answers on a postcard who can account for that price compared to the Kodiaq ! It's insane - it breaks all the rules. There isn't one single reason that the car should be more expensive to insure. Karoq Edition 1.5 auto 4yr old valued £22k ( 16E ) - Flow Insurance - £414.05 So only £10 cheaper than my current Kodiaq Sportline ! And £34 cheaper than a much older and cheaper Octavia ( which has the smallest insurance group rating ) I almost bought a 5 series estate rather than the Kodiaq. At the time the insurance was approx £100 extra... BMW 520d mild hybrid Msport estate auto 3yr old, valued £26K - Aviva £722.89 The difference is now £300 but to be fair most of the quotes are around this price. The vast majority of quotes for my Kodiaq were also around this price. Out of interest, the day I went to order the Karoq was the day the Kamiq arrived in our showrooms. If I could have amanged to fit golf equipment in to the boot I'd have bought one. It would have been a cheaper car to buy and run then the Karoq. From memory not sure the 1.0 was available is top spec DSG at the time so it had to be a 1.5... Kamiq SEL 1..0 auto 4yr old valued £17k ( 14E ) - Flow £405.92 So £8 less for a cheaper car, much lower insurance, smaller engine than the Karoq I eventually bought? Or £20 less that my current Kodiaq Sportline which is £10k more expensive, much larger, much higher insurance grouping, much faster etc. As I said above, if anyone can come up with a reasonable idea why insurance prices are what they are, then they're a better man or woman than me. Also just bought a little Yaris to replace the Karoq which came with loads of safety systems as std equipment and has the speed of an overweight snail ( non turbo 3cyl engine ) Toyota Yaris Cross GR Sport 1.5 hybrid ( 12E ) - 3mth old valued £27k - Flow £466.55 That's more expensive to insure than any of the Skodas despite being 2 insurance groups lower than the Kamiq is !! It's £20 more than the same insurer want's for my Kodiaq which has the same value FFS. 17E vs 12E What's the point of insurance groups? What does the value of a car matter? What does the age of a car matter? It's all b0llocks.

Do other dealerships pay for flood damaged cars under warranty? Good general advice for all car owners TBH.

£180 all in, not bad at all. I assume it's just a direct fit

Actually there is no statutory legal obligation on the Councils to provide public toilets....Its a voluntary "for the good of the town" obligation, which they are ditching as fast as they can! that is why that sign you posted talk about Highland Councils "Comfort Scheme", where commercial premises can earn a small amount of money by "opening" their toilets to the general public. Usually hotels, restaurants, community centres etc, in remote areas sign up for this. However H.C. are trying to force this into towns by closing their exiting Council owned public toilets. In Nairn we used to have 8 sets of public toilets circa 33yrs ago.......now down to 2 with one other taken over by Parkdean caravan site..!...How H.C. saves money!!....I'd like to know WTF it does with it....wages, gold plated pensions, etc!! Back On Topic, with the massive storm hitting Scotland tomorrow, anybody with a Tesla should just park it inside as it might fail due to the yellow weather warning!!!...fecking dealers!!!

The Dorado has an offset of ET51, not ET49 as shown in the Skoda parts catalogue. 3 5E0601025P Aluminium rim 7.5Jx17 ET51 4 PR-C0X DORADO 5E0601025P 8Z8 Diamond silver https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/805/6/601/601070

When you say you managed to break it within 5 minutes. Did you just pull it down and it broke?

There is a good chance being a 2016 TDi, it'll have smaller 312mm front disks which will open up a range of 16" alloys too... That aside, the OP said "In my country changing the tire size is not an option as it is not allowed". That means they can only choose from the alloy/tyre sizes the car has been certified against making most options suggested here invalid.

No, they r the pre-facelift tail lights. I added a light smoke tint to it, otherwise factory lights. I added a chrome strip to it - door edge protectors in fact, that I repurposed. Still going strong after 3 yrs plus. I originally wanted to retrofit the facelift tail lights, along with the chrome strip, but it was too much of a hassle, and very expensive for all the bits n pieces required. So I did my version, thanks to a cheap AliExpress alternative!! I also used the same chrome stripe on the lower door trim.

Try reading infotainment system restarting thread. You may need to do a couple of firmware updates and/or get your dealer to do a hardware replacement as well as the firmware update.

Hey hey. The cable is actually going around the A5 camera housing, but I managed to tuck it under the trim, and then under the roof liner towards the A-pillar. I didn't remove the A5 Camera trim surround - didn't want that hassle.

Thanks mate !

I'll definitely have one of these if it comes to fruition. It must be Octavia sized though, not an Octavia on steroids! The ID.4 is too big for my needs really and an OCty / Golf estate would be ideal. Riding on the MEB platform is a great plus as the ID.4 is a lovely car to travel in. The updates announced for ID.7 and also coming to updated Enyaq/ID.4/Q4 MY2024 make MEB better and more efficient. I hope they work to keep the weight and drag down to improve efficiency. 4.5 mile/kWh and the 58kWh battery would make the range acceptable. A 77kWh battery in this size of car would be overkill.

Sounds like a reasonable possibility.

I started the car this yesterday morning. Well, what I mean is, it was 0c here overnight and it only “just” started. Then a warning came up saying “Stop/start Disabled” and a symbol then came up on the warning light bar below the maxi dot, which I can’t find in the handbook so apparently doesn’t exist! So sadly it looks like the battery, which is the original form 2016, is finally on the way-out, so I can’t really complain. I put it on charge and have now left it for 24h so we’ll see if that helps. I’ve also got the Noco jump starter if needed. Fortunately, we have a replacement battery included with the RAC cover, so that’s one less thing to worry about in terms of cost, but as I’m in Ireland at present, I’ll probably have to go over the boarder to get them to come out.

Thanks for reply. Fair enough, with VW's over complicated computer programs who knows, not I, just that I'm confused as to how you got in the car if neither remote would unlock the door(s), unless the door(s) were already unlocked using the key blade sets the alarm off in my experiences of my wife's VWSkoda car ownership. Not to worry, I'm glad you're sorted as my wife had to buy a new remote, £143 and £41.40 to 'code' it, both from VWSkoda Dealer. I always suggest not thinking of the second remote as a spare but to use both keys alternatively in some respect as that way both remotes and batteries get regular use so wear more evenly and you know both work and where both remotes are, rather than one put somewhere forgotten about and possibly with a low battery anyway. Also for others, my wife's had a non-working remote after a battery change because the battery wasn't fully located against the connecting peg (a GM Vauxhall car and Dealership changing the remote battery as part of the car's service), I'm not saying that was the issue this time as it happened with both remotes and I wasn't there as I was with the GM Vauxhall remote. Again thanks for your feedback and info.

Look at Nokian Hakkapalita tyres and I would advise getting tyres where studs can be added. That way if you drive over and find yourself in need of studs you can get them fitted. I’d advise make sure you have the correct wheel size to allow clearance for snow chains and would take a set. As it’s so warm here compared to there, the Nordic tyres are not particularly suitable for the UK, so you’ll need to change them for any Of K winter that isn’t epically cold. Things to consider would include where you’re driving and can you fit them over there?

Most likely a dying bulb or a bad connection somewhere: - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01499 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00978 I'd probably replace the bulbs as they aren't expensive and then check the wiring/connectors are in good condition whilst the headlights are out Also check any ground points around the headlights look OK...

Is your car on its original timing belt or has it been replaced? If it’s been replaced there’s a chance the bolts weren’t replaced and torqued correctly. id be replacing the bolts with new ones with loctite and refitting to the correct torque

Not sure to be honest but diagrams on 7zap seem to indicate they are located on the air ducts to the vents at either end of the dashboard... Items 12 https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2015-753/8/819-819030/

Can't see it being the heater matrix as I think there is generally only one of those so if you're getting hot on one side that shows that it's working. My guess would be an issue with a heater flap motor or one of the temperature probes in the dash vents has had it or become misplaced as I think there is one in each side.

Hello Daniel, welcome to the forum. What colour is your coolant - is it discoloured? PS. I think they're taking the p**s for the coolant flush.

Fit a bigger case size (096) as the battery tray will take 3 different sizes & VAG usually fit the middle size to your engine....You will need to recode the BCM to tell the car the type of battery, the capacity & to alter the serial number coding lines. All info in the first post in this thread I made 8yrs ago.... How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

No because I did try this a few days previously and it did not work

Held in by a single torx screw I believe, but you may well need to remove the metal bracket that screws through the housing next to it (as seen in the close-up photo of the position in the ebay listing linked previously in other thread). How sure are you that it's faulty? My advice would be to disconnect and inspect the connector before anything else, looking for any sign of corrosion on the contacts or damage to the wiring near the cable entry. Do you know the knack of removing these connectors?

The GPS is done with a single wire with fakra connectors which plugs from the MIB unit to the shark fin.

If it is held in by the plastic C clip like I think it is then you can replace it working by feel alone, you dont need to see what you are doing, granted until you have done it once it will not be so apparent what to do. Removing the wiring plug is usually the hardest, once that is done the sensor should be relatively easy.

they probably do have them, but those markers can give false readings & lets say that water did get in, yet the battery pack was never submerged??.. Lets say that what the customer states is true, as there is no other evidence to prove otherwise that we can see ATM....So basically puddles & wet roads, in heavy rain, no "fording", & the water depth was never more than a couple of inches at the deepest....then the battery pack has had a manufacturer failure on its waterproofing. Yes the customer "could" be lying, & you should be able to pull the drive data logs for the car in the previous 24hrs & overlay the route onto the google maps with known flooding on it, then you can tell "if" the car "forded". The fact that the dealer is basically saying "yellow weather warning was given your tough ****"....thats really bad & means the car is not fit for purpose!...I wonder how many other times when the car has actually failed & that same excuse will be used!!....I see court cases & the consumer act being invoked!...I've driven my petrol car down roads with a yellow weather warning & never had any problems..& that includes flooded roads..the most I did was get water in the low level front fog lights!...

Ordered January 2022.. Today delivered. Fingers crossed the honeymoon period is long lasting and trouble free!!!!

Accidents affect your policy risk irrespective of who is to blame. Also a No claim bonus is not a no blame bonus If you have a protected NCB it also does not stop the price going up. You will keep the percentage discount but it will be off the "new" premium before any added options you previously added are put on. My insurance with no activity this year has gone up 29%

It might have been an idea to ask in the Mk3 Fabia Section. Usually painted. There were Mk2 Fabia Monte Carlo that came with a wrapped roof but i suspect they were built for another country with a different standard trim then ended up in the UK and not the RoI or other right hand drive countries so they wrapped them.

That is most of the time not correct, the right answer is written above by @Breezy_Pete

https://youtu.be/wBbF8V0BOKg

Dual-mass flywheels are a newish answer to an old problem, diesels vibrate worse than petrols because they have much stronger power strokes at low RPM, this is due to the higher compression ratio. Diesels also need stronger, and therefore heavier cranks, rods and pistons due to these very high pressures. In the old days diesel flywheels were huge to help absorb the vibrations, dual-mass flywheels were created to allow the use of a much lighter assembly which dramatically reduces parasitic power losses and inertia whilst controlling vibration, the result is a more powerful and fuel efficient engine that revs much more freely. No-one needs a car that lasts forever because the tinworm will claim their prize long before it ever becomes relevant, fit an SMF when building a high power tuned engine, otherwise just don't do it.

The Golf and Octavia have completely different lines around that area. I suspect you'd need to completely rework the area where it connects to get a nice blend and keep it level. More or less straight on a Golf: Much more rounded on an Octavia:

Sometimes, but also often a different version of the part entirely. I think the suffix E suits D1S xenon headlights, where the no-suffix version appears to be for H7 standard halogens. Judging by what's written on the labels in some of the above photos.

I’m absolutely not interested in hatches as everything is an SUV and I want load lugging. SUV formats are ok but not a patch on an estate. 👍 as for the id3/4, that’s the enyaq and personally I hated the 3 and sadly the 4/enyaq shared some of the traits I hated. I wouldn’t touch an octy based on that a barge pole. Currently thinking A6 Avant etron when the ev6 is due back.

I got this soon after I got my Kamiq: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333906217362?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AKamiq&hash=item4dbe5c8992:g:VqgAAOSwBWZgPT6s&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MdHXPaUMpobT8086uPT5Qd4aKJAHciVFtmZgZ%2BX8Kzz7MEmAFJXX1%2FLyy9C%2FJsjDbq05NMop%2FmFFzQOX4PxgG1qjdjgBFEgQDPrfHo%2FCtrR4VL3pNPy08zhurSESobCeToSePebcbC2vQUyEPn7I%2FlzyKa9wFQXXD45gX3ftU8XkEdF4c%2BTl0uYBwPV4fY57TrS85xwEdKsGdyxtGINEvSD2qwKrsOYuXYqKA0MKpiZqeUPbrzkfxPZqBTXBT0DoLosq3Sf6Z0PoM6k%2BTb%2Flagbv%2BAR3IEPpa81gCbSmtOw90FRigKXiztc6NseHmNudw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8jx08nBYg I’ve posted my review of this some time ago on this forum so I’ve copied and pasted it. I couldn’t be more pleased with it. Much cheaper than the other ones I’ve looked at, and so I was worried that some corners may have been cut in its manufacture. But it is excellent, slightly soft, with a textured surface which helps to stop things sliding about. Best of all it is a perfect fit, unlike some other generic offerings. It’s proved its worth already - food shop this week, went to unpack from the boot and one of the milk cartons had leaked. All contained by the liner, took out and wiped down. Would have been a horrible mess on the carpet. Note - I don’t have the variable boot floor which might make a difference to the fit. Hope this helps.

You have to modify all 4 lists. Those with LIN are for the doors