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Aaaaaaaand it's back. £131 later for a track rod and tracking. Now goes in a straight line, bonus. Thank **** for that.

Right here’s what to do. 1. Connect car to VCDS 2.Go into applications 3. Click on History Data 4. Choose address ‘19’ and start. It will go through a download. Save when finished 5. Go out of that and select VCDS Toolbox. Click on B.history and should open a box with the history file. Click on it and the toolbox screen should fill with data. 6. Click on the drop down box and select 16. Vehicle energy balance 7. There’s a smaller dropdown box to the right, click on that and select one of the numbers. My starter info was number 3 on the list. Look for “ engine start counter” My car has now 59994 starts! There’s another dropdown box “ Battery aging”. My readings are: Age in relation to charging = 70% Age in relation to performance = 53%

Hi, on 18th October 2023 I officially received the 1941 update via OTA (previous version 1900). Dring the next few days 3 more small App and Manal update were performed. Best regards, WiZi

This, is my 1999 Vauxhall Vectra 1.8 16v Arctic Special Edition (try saying that three times as fast) that I bought three weeks ago. It's very much a low mileage car, having just shy of 27,000 miles when I picked it up. Unlike my Fabia, I've no intention with deviating from the original spec, bar some period additions such as a Garfield on one of the windows and suchlike. This thread will probably document me getting small details for it, and just keeping it looking and running mint (which, believe me, when it comes to a Vectra near salt water, is a task in itself). So, what's it like? It's actually rather good. It's smooth, and refined feeling, plus the multi-link rear suspension setup really does help with handling/road holding. It's a confident and sure footed drive. This, or the Skoda? Even the mental narrator has it in for me, ffs. Erm, actually, I can't pick between the two. The Fabia, despite lacking in power, is a very fun little car. Poised and cheeky. Plus it's less likely to dissolve if it rains heavily and doesn't shaft me financially at the fuel pumps. This Vectra, on the other hand, is quick, it's spacious, and it's actually comfier than the Fabia (although they do have about 220k miles on them, they're not original). So aye, maybe this is the ideal two car balance? Has it broke yet? Erm, it had been in limp home mode since I bought it, but only noticed when gunning it off a roundabout passing Durham at 1am and the limiter kicked in at 4500rpm. As of today, the cam sensor has been replaced, and it now has the lost power returned. It moves well for a nearly 25 year old (?!?!) car.

4 years production / importation to the UK and look how many on SORN, and how many no longer registered. Dead parrots.

Any more on the Tesla in the Edinburgh area & the BILL for £17,000. Not many cases of Flood ruined EV,s coming up so far & the media articles in the Edinburgh one never gave many examples of others. They will be too embarrassed to tell maybe....

Salt water (sea) and freshwater (rain and rivers) have very different properties? https://socratic.org/questions/why-is-seawater-a-better-conductor-of-electricity-than-water-from-a-freshwater-l

Some of the grasping at straws on this thread gets to the level where you could mistakenly imagine they were the grasping actions of shills trying to undermine a threat to their business. Lets keep these things real please rather than wild speculation. Ignoring the car… a bigger question is why on earth the car park isn’t built with sprinklers, fire breaks and able to withstand a reasonably intense fire without serious collapse.

For 14k extra, on a car that is the same same with a lower powered engine and all the potential issues that comes with diesel if you don't use it as intended... ... I cannot see an upside. Don't forget the new MK4 is coming out. You'll have a lot more depreciation on the new car too.

@J.R.Air filters can get wet and can get very dirty and very clogged up. And so can air filter boxes. Rural areas with STOOR, Cities with Dirty Busses / Taxis as Edinburgh was and the reek coming out of their tail pipes. The Air Filter Replacement was at the 2nd Major Service, 4 years / 40,000 miles in the UK. Included in the Fixed Price, not always checked let alone replaced. 5 minutes of the Service to check. Except now some are epic to get too. Location location location. Easy to look see, give the filter a shake, vaccum, blow through, or just stick in a new one or not.

Minus 3. Pre heating for 5 minutes worked fine. Heated seat was on as left set last light and heated rear screen and heated mirrors worked. Set ae 25 degrees interior when parked. All good. Drive a mile and great vision then into frozen fog and could not see 10 yards. That was in street lighting.

Jupiter and a couple of her moons. Io and Europa I think. Single thirty second shot with the same lens etc as above. Zoom in for a bit more detail - better on a PC than a phone.

Only need to change brake fluid if needed. All reputable garages can check it and replace if needed. Our Karoq is over 5 years old and brake fluid is still fine.

The following is going to sound very stoopid ( I know it is ) but how often are the other 3 doors opened ?. The reason I ask is my car normally has me only in it, as a result the only door normally opened is drivers door . Not so long ago the 3 other doors were opened while I cleaned it & I was amazed @ the amount of water that pi55ed out of the doors. The "seal" twixt window and door is not watertight , it cant be hence water gets into the door , if the drainage holes are blocked you could unknowingly have a few pints of water inside the the doors not normally opened. It seems to me that the placement of drainage holes in the bottom of the door means they work best with the door open. Like I said sounds stoopid but Just a thought.

Anything even with disposable batteries will start rapid galvanic corrosion if immersed in salt water, I have had dive lights fail at 40m and when opened up afterwards there was little but black sludge remaining inside, same with a cheap headtorch I foolishly tried to use when snorkelling in the dark. By comparison I had a Nokia telephone vibrate off my countertop into a bowl of washing up, it happened while I was out and somebody rang, I returned home hours later looked for the phone and saw it looking up at me, the display was still showing the missed call. After removing the battery and drying ot out it worked fine for another couple of years before finally failing probably due to the immersion. In the video he talks about submarine mode failing, there is no such thing as submarine mode and anyone who uses an EV to launch a boat is a fool, you can extend that to any vehicle other than perhaps a ratty 4x4 pick up truck. He also describes the battery box ventilation which disabuses the nonsense you posted earlier that the battery boxes should be sealed and suffer no water ingress when submerged, a shame he didn't expand on it and explain the partial vacuum generated by the rapid cooling which would suck the water in even faster.

If only, over a minute of a click bait video for just 4 sentences saying nothing but the obvious and which is already known, a Times article it was not.

The Usual, prestige cars. Accident damaged awaiting parts, owners life abroad part time, lease / hire / corporate cars. Maybe awaiting new high voltage batteries or something like that.

Apologies if this is off topic but a day of boredom saw me creating a compilation of all the cars I’ve owned since I started out in the late 70s. I lost the plot a bit in late 80’s but eventually got back on track with my first Skoda. Not all vehicles pictured were mine (sadly I didn’t take many photos) but they are exact colour and model I had and are pictured in the order I had them. I only owned the Kuga for a few weeks ( missed the Skodas) and had the wee rag top for 6 years as a summer toy while having the white Fabia as a daily driver. Wish I still owner the pick up!

The EPC coming on could be from as simple as a misfire, maybe because the spark plugs need replacing. So what Service History is there?

Seat belt damage on a 4-year old car doesn't sound good. A car that's been sitting in a Dealership and/or not used for a long time could have a low car battery that might charge up fine but I'd not trust a Dealership to do that proper so would insist on a new CORRECT battery if I was to buy the car then you know you have a new (hopefully correct) battery in good condition and only you can be responsible if it doesn't last long or goes flat. A low car battery can throw up all sorts of warnings before the lights and warnings actually spell it out to the driver that the car battery is low and lack of proper use of the car can also contribute to possibly warning lights and messages but so can other issues and problems. Plugging in a VW appropriate scan (diagnostics) tool may give you more information towards the why the EPC light was on if the Dealership has been too lazy to clear all codes (never under estimate how lazy or careless Dealerships/garage/mechanics/"technicians" can be. If I seem cynical it's because of decades of dealing with English Dealerships/garage/mechanics/"technicians", even if you buy a decent Japanese car like a Honda or Toyota you still deal with English Dealerships, well in Ingerlund at least. There's no telling on a site how good or bad a car is to buy, look at the condition of the car ,look at any servicing history (is is full or bits missing) look at the mileage, when was it done, higher mileage can be better than low mileage and lack of use. It used to be that the Dealerships only kept the car for two months before moving it on if it didn't sell but I've no idea in the times of Covid, parts shortages and recent times. A 2019 VW car is more (over) VW complex than even (over) complex earlier VW cars so I'd suggest you approach it with even more care, the car's lack of use may be easily overcome if it has previously been well used and well looked after and maintained and fully serviced on time. The failed seatbelt may, or may not be a sign of something, or nothing. If you want a more carefree purchase you may consider looking elsewhere.

Actually I found another post where you clarify it is the handle. I will private message to check if you still have parts

This is true, but unfortunately, Skoda, in their wisdom, have decided that all 3 (at least in my car), are permanently live. If I were to plug my dashcam into the front socket it would never turn off unless I pulled out the plug. Also, if I plug the dashcam into a usb socket, all that I get is a message saying that the dashcam is trying to connect to the 'computer'. I solved this by buying a power only usb c cable. Another issue is that I use a fridge on holiday, and having once, many yearsago, flattened the battery by my kids failing to unplug it overnight, I now use a lead which monitors the supplied voltage and switches the fridge off when the engine stopped and the supply voltage falls.

Thanks for the advice, I think probably I will go for the silver. It used to be quite common but now it seems grey has taken over, every other car you see is grey so I think the silver will be a bit different and contrasts well with the black trim.

I managed to do DSG adaptaton via Obd11. My Vrs has kick problem from 2->3 gear in Sport mode, (adaptation didnt help in my case) but I managed to do factory reset dsg because I heard clunking and shifting while on parking. When I finished adaptation I felt when relasing brake for example in "R"everse gear, car is biting more smoother and stronger.

It was a leaf, and thanks for the heads up.

I had not read the article when posting a reply, and it was me that posted what i heard on the radio. So due to knowing nothing other than what i heard or about Sub judice or anything else i never guess. As it is not under any court yet if released. not even the court of Social Media / speculation...

Hey guys, anybody tried to fix a faulty injector by it's own? One of our company cars have a faulty injector @cylinder 3. I checked the internal resistance with a multimeter and got 4kOhm. All healthy ones are around 190kOhm. I have another broken injector to play with and that one also show ~5kohm on the multimeter. I noticed that you can easily remove te top part that includes the electical components of the injector wich looks like this: https://german.alibaba.com/product-detail/solenoid-valve-for-siem-ens-continental-vdo-common-rail-piezo-injector-1600121716566.html Now I'm asking myself if the injector can be fixed by swapping this part. This should be possible without removing the entire injector since you can acces it pretty well. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find any supplier from EU and I'm also not shure if this will work at the end of the days since it might be possible that this part became faulty due to another issues inside the injector assy,

Try this first.

Just found this on the BBC website, Luton Airport fire: Man arrested over car park blaze - BBC News

Fire alarms. Who knows, but best not speculate.

@wyx087 The bumf says their is a heat pump. Hard to believe, or if there is it is any good. But as it is just now it does the 100 miles or so and the !00% shows as 104 miles. So better than 3 miles kw/h. I had to move others cars and the 520 estate was near 10 minutes from firing up and the Shogun still iced passed that. MINI sitting with roof and windows open to dry out inside later once it gets above freezing and the sun comes around. I will pre-heat the MINI plugged in or not on the 3 pin charger and be sure it is plugged in and at 100% before any trips. Parts of the A90 still closed right now passed Forfar.

Parts catalogue shows all three aluminium pipes plus a few other bits as a single replacement entity, 03G 130 308 N at £156 + VAT in UK, so I would imagine you would prefer to find a secondhand single pipe in a scrapyard? I know that I would. No part number shown for just the coolant pipe (other two are fuel). Image of the assy here: Fuel Line Škoda 03G130308N (skoda-parts.com)

I wonder if the car is programmed to use heat pump as much as possible? I noticed this with Model Y, where it would say "warming up" for a minute or so before hot air begins to blow. Whereas Leaf would pull 2 kW with its resistive heater elements and start blowing hot air straight away. Of course, pre-heating solves this because it builds up heat pump pressure before you jump in.

Exactly, easy way for some garages to make more money, if as you say it was vital it would be part of the service schedule. Bit like saying you should change your tyres every 2 years regardless of condition!

Brake Fluid change with Skoda in the UK since 2010 was first at 3 years and then each 2 years. Previously it was at 2 years then each 2 years. Until last years when with new Models. Mk4 Fabia and others it started showing first at 2 years then each 2 years. There are still Mechanics, technicians, fitters & DIY,ers that check for Brake fluid with a tester. PS What changes is that the factory fill is into a new system, pipes, hoses, seals etc. & then the Manufacturers Warranty in the UK is 3 years. 2 Years in other countries and World Regions, but also 5 in some like Australia.

hi, I have replaced the battery in my key fob.You need a cr2032 battery to do so.Look on you tube and it shows you how to change the battery,it s very simple and takes only minutes.Good luck,Cheers andy😃

Not mixed up at all and aware it's hygroscopic, thanks. Brake fluid is checked by my garage every service and is fine. No need to change it. Car brakes perfectly.

Oil pump, chain/tensioner stuff here: LLLParts

That linked thread was about cam sensor, not crank sensor. You were bang on the money on Friday @inspectorman. That ebay picture is showing item 16 here, which is at the gearbox end of engine/crankshaft. LLLParts So OP should be looking at gearbox end of engine, close to clutch bellhousing. I think back right corner of engine low down on block as you look into the engine bay. Edit, or maybe at front near oil cooler? If that's what this is showing?

Did you change the light bulb first?

if it bothers you, you can use Bilt Hamber Atom Mac on them but it is normal

Easier to say what I don't enjoy, and that's only being able to adjust blower speed etc via the infotainment system. Thankfully Skoda have seen sense and there are now rotary controls etc in the facelifted model.

Waiting at Luton airport now. Friend just parked their diesel at car park 1. View of car park 2: Loads of non damaged cars. Hope they don’t scrape the whole lot.

A whole thread on EVs. And the subject is the anti EV Telegraph's equally anti EV gob****e Allison Pearson who, AFAIK, has absolutely no experience in motoring journalism or, IMO, reality. More browser friendly unroll here https://threadreaderapp.com/thread/1714641544970723838.html

OK, update time, and I'm eating a big slice of humble pie, just as I said would if I was wrong and it now seems that I am. The Range Rover was a 2014 sport model, 3Litre diesel reg DK14MPV, had a reg change in 2016 to 111BT and back again in 2020. Then had another change to E10EFL in Dec 2022. I sure would not want to be in the owners shows right now, having purchased the car in 2020, getting a personalised registration plate on it late last year and today has nothing, it must have been their pride and joy.

Another video emerged from a different angle, showing license plate: https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1712232395049422942 The paint on the ground match Luton airport promo page I posted earlier. The vehicle is a 2014 diesel, not hybrid of any kind. Looks like it's just been abandoned whilst driving. Very unfortunate to have happened in middle of the car park. Would not have been on the news if it were at side of the road.

I have not studied them but would say that there would be less load from the valve springs not opening and closing. Are the valves closed or partially open in the situation you describe? Closed valves would create engine braking and also draw engine oil up past the rings. I got my first car for a bargain price because the seller my BIL, 10 years older than me said the engine was foutu, running on 3, smoking and rattling like a pig, his diagnosis piston and big end failure. I knew better and in 5 minutes had it running like a jewel, well as much as a Vauxhall Viva engine could, without spending one penny, the stiffnut tappet adjuster on an inlet valve had unscrewed, I pinched it up in the vice and reset the valve clearance, no misfire, no more oil burning, no more rattling. He was incandescent with rage because the precocious cocky s0d that I was at 17 took great pleasure in telling him my great news!

Soon, the old girl as looking as good as new... 😎 *footnote from first post - the chrome strip is made from purest unobtainium, fashioned by blind nuns in the Carpathian Mountains. Hence, the retail price of £104...🤦‍♂️

So recently I got my hands on some trim tools They’re cheap, nasty but got everything I needed done. First thing to go after: the hole in my door Since I first bought this car, it always had a hole where the mirror control blank belonged, and for the longest time I struggled trying to find a replacement part, all scrappers sold the entire door frame along with and the only spare parts store selling was selling it for 0.77c. With an import from Czech Republic for €15. This admittedly was a little bit off putting for a small hole in the door; however someone mentioned that it could just simply of fell into the door, so decided to take a bet and have a look. Apologies for lack of photos, pretty difficult to do while holding a door card. It turned out that blank was just lying within the door all along, and luckily no tabs cracked in the process. The tab itself was somehow undamaged too, just needed a little scrub and slotted back in. I will mention I didn't hear a rattle or anything else that indicated that the blank was in there. Quite nice to have the interior complete for once. While I still have mcguffin removers, decided to take a go at the sunglasses retrofit Small piece of advice for anyone wanting to do the same, rather than just poking for the tabs from outside and pulling down, I found it much more easier to remove the inside lights, reach in and push on a tab, while simultaneously pulling down. Also gave a shot at trying to solve my boot open light problem too by fiddling around with the boot latch I took it out, couldn’t replicate the issue, shoved it full of WD40 and contact cleaner for good measure, saw the light work fine so I have no clue what happened, but now it works so I wont question it. And finally, while I had the boot cracked open, decided to take a shot at restoring my plate screws Unfortunately it seems I’ve developed an allergy to before photos, so here’s an assortment of things which came out while removing the screws. Also you could see old photos of my plate too. All but one went generally fine, front plate screws were the easiest, no resistance and came clean off. The rear plates needed bit of convincing to come off, one eventually surrendered. The other however... In the end I had to rip out the tab and replace it with plastic plate holders Its quite nice to no longer have rusty screws right in front of my car, but the plates are starting to separate the paper and acrylic layers and possibly have their days numbered

Pics as promised