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Dont forget Cliff Michelmore and Woofter Woolard, oh to be back in the simple days of "the gearlever falls nicely to hand" instead of the poncy lifestyle ads of today.

Maybe you should consider changing the title of the thread to something more appropriate than The truth about electric cars? I think that is what EnterName was referring to. It has evolved into a place for links to clickbait and other commercially motivated videos, most seem to agree the thread OP included that many have opposing agendas to push, they cannot all be the truth. I have enjoyed and been informed by many of them, many of the presenters I cannot stand the style of but thankfully there is a J.R. health warning on the title screenshot or whatever it is called, the ones I dont like all seem to be standing in a weird way in front of the vehicles pointing with a dramatic expression on their face and equally dramatic hairstyle, the colours and fonts of the dramatic messags and captions are always similar.

I've had that "all covered by warranty so no need to provide a zero cost/charge bit of paperwork" - I just advised my VW main dealership that they had carried out work on my property, so I needed a breakdown of what work was carried out, for many reasons including just in case that failure occurred again, and even when just out of warranty - and they provided it. For the first "prepaid service" I had to push for paperwork, it came automatically for the 2nd and 3rd service though, so maybe a change of plan.

The 1.6 TDI is famous for eating its injectors so if they've never been replaced then replacing all four would probably solve the problem, however there's no imperative to do so until the symptoms become intolerable. Your choice really.

Same for me. I was amazed when I came from my halogen equiped MY2009 Audi A3 to my MY2012 Superb Mk2 fitted with Xenons as standard spec. Still satisfied with my current Superb Mk3 also Xenons equiped. But I agree, when you compare to another car fitted with OEM LEDs. It's almost the feeling a boy scout proud of his swiss knife seeing John Rambo coming by with his big guns... 😄 Yes, I know... talking about Rambo gives an idea of my age. I should have spoken of any Marvel hero to look younger... 🤣

We found a new trail today .........

Found another 🐑👍

Daftbugga you just helped me cure a problem of water sloshing around in an infrequently used door. The rubber strip at bottom edge needed gentle massage. Substantial amount of water quickly drained.

As there seems to be a lot of people asking questions about this lately, I thought I'd put together a quick guide showing how I fitted my reverse camera to a facelift VRS hatchback. They way that i've fitted this will apply to most models, with the key differences being the size of handle (based upon car model year) and whether hatch or estate (but this is just inside trim differences), there may also be wiring loom differences for earlier cars or none VRS models. I've benefited from info from these forums so hopefully this will be useful to others. I am by no means an expert & I won't be able to answer all of your questions, hopefully others will chip in and can add other info as well. First of all, this is the camera that I ordered for my MY 2017 VRS (Camera A/Handle A): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40694c4dTEPT93 (link may no longer be valid when you read this so screenshot below) No programming is required for this camera and it supports dynamic reverse guidelines Tools: Trim removal tools would be useful, but otherwise plastic tool that won't mark your car, or screwdrivers or similar with masking tape over the end. A T20 torx head tool is required if you have a hatchback to remove the pulldown boot strap Cable rods are very useful, I couldn't have fitted through the roof lining without. Stereo removal tools unless they come with your camera kit Cable route - I went with an OEM route for my cabling, following existing cables through the roofliner and out to the back as show by the red line below. The camera: The first thing that I did was to check that the boot release switch was working on the new unit - there's no way you want to wire this in and find it is faulty. You'll need to start removing the boot trim to access it. Remove the plastic clips from the lower boot trim- this consists of a few plastic clips which easily pop out with trim remover/screwdriver. There are 8 of these on the hatchback. After that start removing the upper plastic trim, this simply requires forces to release the metal clips. You don't need to remove all of this for now, but it will all need to come off later Remove the lower upholstered trim covering the tailgate. More metal clips - work your way around. You'll also need to remove the pull down strap with the T20 torx head. When this is down you should be able to drop the boot liner which will give access to the boot release handle. This can be awkward to remove, but can be done by pushing in the clip on one on the ends whilst also pushing down on the handle from the inside (ignore the clips along its length) - it should then pop out. Repeat for the other side. Unplug the harness and plug the new handle in - check the release switch works. You can either now push the new handle in until it clips, or leave it out to test the video connection later before fitting. To wire it in Remove the glovebox (open, rock left to right whilst pulling up & you'll hear the bottom clips release. Raise the glovebox lid up and inside the housing and reach in and remove the dampening on the left hand side) Use the stereo release keys to release the multimedia unit. The kit used here comes with a replacement harness that sits between the original one and the media unit & includes the video feed cable. Some people have removed the upper glovebox section to provide more access, be careful not to unplug the airbag connector if you do this. This can be fiddly, but I found the best way was to lie on my back with my head in footwell looking up at the unit from underneath. With the media unit slid fowards this gives access to the harness. It's the large one at the bottom and there is a locking connecting that needs to be pushed backwards to release. Check how it works on your replacement harness. Unplug old harness and plug it in to one end of the new one, push the harness in to the void and plug the new connector block in to the media unit. This took me a while to get it all to fit in. When done you can now test the video feed to the rear camera before your start wiring it in permanently. I took the camera cable over the top of the fusebox cage & out through the side panel I then ran the cable up the A Pillar to the roof lining and all the way to the end. Cable rods were really useful at this point, especially to get around the B pillar , and to go from the end of the roof liner through the cable exit point behind the rubber trunking where the original boot cables are. You can also run the cable in the trim above the sill and work your way back up to the roof lining on the C pillar. When you get to the end of the roof lining you'll need to unclip the rubber gator at the top of the boot so you can get the cable out of the roof liner and in to the boot via this gator. If you install the same way as me you only need to peel the roof liner down a few cm, being careful not to deform or damage it and you'll see the OEM cables behind. Once you've got the cable this far it's a case of feeding it through the rubber gator, up the side of the boot and over to the handle; connect the video cable and tidying up any spare cable. Everything should now be up and running. Retrace your steps to refit your trim. You now have a fully working reverse camera, activated when reverse is selected and with dynamic guidelines. The parking sensor guide now shifts to the left of the screen the same as an OEM reverse camera. I will come back and re-edit this tomorrow and resize pics as it's getting late. I'll tidy up any errors as I see them so please don't jump on me straight away!

Right , theres plenty of posts about this but i dont seem to find a clear answer, i have a skoda 1.6tdi cr 2010 . The cluster is a non maxi dot . The kph display comes on after im on the move only (replaces the mileage) , ive seen a few posts where people have been successful by changing the location via vcds to australia . Or some people play around with the little button on the cluster itself , or the button on indicator stalk (which mine doesn't have) . I'm stuck can this be done ? Any how / vcds

Just noticed that after what must be a years absence, Skoda are listing again on the DriveTheDeal broker website, allbeit in limited range. The one thing I always liked about DTD is the information is usually more up-to-date than you get visiting the dealer. At time of writing they've only listing Fabia, Octavia, Karoq and Kodiaq ( I'm sure I saw Superb listed last night ). One thing I didn't realise was just how much some of the options are these days. £1800 for a pano roof on a Kodiaq 😲 And equipment levels on Karoq. Buy a 1.5 Sportline DSG, add on a pack or two for equipment that's standard in most other cars these days, and you're approaching £40k ! Wow. No wonder they can knock £6k off the price.

Anyone who may be interested the code is bf23. I have just ordered the led reversing bulbs and got a discount of £7.19p. The previously ordered rear indicator led bulbs are working fine, with no errors.

No, its a poverty spec with no bells & whistles, no LCD displays of any kind. Less to go wrong.

Carry on being entertained, That is what iti s supposed to be about is it not? They just earn money from clicks and anything that might come their way.

@Graham Butcher From your post 2 up. That refers to another thread where there as attempts at a wind up. PS You took a top line and a bottom line and put as a quote. Naughty. If you do that with Suella Braverman's letter to Rishi Sunak it reads very different. These people are in the Media Business, that is where they earn their living. So that is the Motor Industry and it was ICE vehicles for decades for some.

What guff. They are employed or self employed, unemployed with vested interests, making a living or not, just like everyone else. No idea why anyone would think that money is not involved in making video's be that from their own sources or others and that there is money to be made or just covering making them and keeping things rolling along. They are professional or semi-professional or amateurs, Vloggers, Bloggers or Journalists are reliant on getting cars lent buy business or by owners of cars or like some, they do the cars they lease or own.

out in a referral code now and you will still get transferred but they will give you £50 credit on yiur bill

What sort of vested interest does Fully Charged show have? Would be great if you can back up your stipulation with some solid evidence. https://fullycharged.show/faqs/

Don’t put on electric demanding devices between 4 and 7, washing machine, dishwasher etc and reap the benefits. But a lot of peeps have to service the family in that time and won’t benefit. But empty nesters and the youthful can. £50 quid for you and me for joining up with a referral code from me lol

I’ve emailed Johnsons who operate the dealership to ask for information on what worked was carried out. I get the impression that the girl on service isn’t keen on being there as she rushes you out the door and can be a bit argumentative with you. The last time I spoke to her was when my door interior door handle snapped off and I needed to get Skoda UK involved as they were shrugging me off. Then she questioned me as to why I’d booked a courtesy car when it was a 10 minute job, when they tell me that someone will get to it when they can and don’t know how long it’ll take then I’ll book a car as I don’t fancy sitting in there for hours waiting. never had any issues with the previous chap on service, he actually tried to help and sort things out and is the main reason I bought the warranty cover.

Was an example. You can have both the factory switch and the oil pressure gauge together, all you need is an adaptor with new thread https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51uSmRtICaL._SL1000_.jpg and some Cooper washers. May look a bit ugly inside the engine bay but if you are a driver that likes to monitor things it's good.

Nope, the original OE units. Took that pic in June 22.

Just to close out the post, had my new turbo fitted, the car runs really nice, well pleased with it. They noticed the sump is leaking very slightly at the joint between the sump and bottom of the engine. So that’s the next job.

The key phrase there is IMO, there are multiple opinions all of which are right for the individual.

This looks like a neat little number. The Silence SO4. A neat little grocery getter/ urban runabout/ commuter car.

Above 100°c the already very small difference in viscosity becomes even smaller. Do you really believe that the difference between 15 Centistokes and 18 Centistokes at 100°c is going to kill your engine? All the oils will fail to give adequate protection beyond 170°c, I have found this out to my cost on the track but most drivers will never get anywhere near that, they will all however experience low temperature starts where the majority of engine wear occurs hence the introduction of multigrade oils. If like me circuit racing or like you driving at 5900rpm through the gears on mountain roads then its understandable to choose the best oil for those temperatures, most peoples engines will never experience that but all engines suffer the majority of the wear after cold engine startups and for most people that should be the deciding factor on oil choice. I'm surprised that timing chain wear would be more significant or important than main and big end bearing failure if an oil does not perform.

Hello! Back to the Skoda fold having purchased a new Karoq over the summer, having sold my yeti in 2017. I live rurally in North East Scotland and the factory fitted tyres just aren't cutting it in wet, greasy or icy conditions, so frustratingly after 3500 miles am looking to change the tyres. Have looked at different options, but see little point in a 'summer'/winter mix, with wet conditions in the 'warmer' months still being a struggle. So a set of all seasons it is, and see if I can recoup a little from the OEM tyres. I had vector 4seasons on the yeti, but cross climate 2s are getting very well reviewed. Now just a question of the pain of purchase

6y1959801. I’ve added a picture, not sure if it uploads.

It seems that way but think it keeps a small bit of reserve it doesn't show you on the dash. So it's though to creep around your neighbourhood just before you get home which is nice for your neighbours if you get back late at night.

Well I checked the part number of my dashboard on VAG-Flashinfo and there are two newer software versions listed. https://vag-flashinfo.de/site/index?partno=5E3920770A According to OBDEleven I'm on version 3450. However, 3460 and 3470 appear to exist. Looks like something I could get updated - although the dealer likely won't make it easy.

There is no "best sound", it's not a one size fits all otherwise they'd lock it down and give you no adjustment It's completely down to the individuals music taste, the media source/format, the sound system in the car, your ears. There's so many variables 🙂

Unsurprising on the first point and probable on the second. One other thing to remember is, in the last 10 years, most local authorities (and all in Greater London) have replaced their old, expensive-to-buy-and-run and very inefficient sodium street lighting for far cheaper, more efficient and much brighter LEDs. This could also be the reason that Xenon headlights appear to be no longer as bright as they once were. Get out into areas with little or no lighting and they’re far more acceptable. I certainly remember being amazed how good the Xenons were on our MKI Superb, compared to the Halogens on the Octavia it replaced.

There is an rims accessories catalogue, should be available from parts Dept https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b As for tyres, rather depends on what you want, something raw and sporty, or something bit more comfortable for your passengers (and if you don't have passengers why did you buy such a big car) Then there is season, do you want them all year (choose all season), or do you want to be able to throw it around country roads in both summer and winter, in which case need sport summer tyres, and set of sporty winter tyres. Remember European winter tyres are designed for cold rain and occasional snow (anything below about +15c), don't confuse them with snow (Nordic) spec tyres. At this time of year for 18s, (235/45 R18) can I suggest any of Continental winter contact 870P Goodyear Ultragrip performance 3 Michelin pilot Alpin 5 Pirelli winter Soto zero 3 If you are a keep same tyres all year person, then perhaps : Continental all seasons contact 2 Goodyear vector 4 Seasons Gen 3 Hankook kinergy 4S2 H750 Michelin cross climate 2 Pirelli Cinturato all season SF2 Vredestein Quatrac pro +

According to my brother, who was a lightning engineer and designer for 35 years, during which he worked for Thorn, GE and Schneider, that statement is, I’m afraid, a complete myth; they won’t become brighter with use. Additionally, it is a myth than an LED will last for 20,000 hours. It might still “illuminate” (albeit the vast majority of Far Eastern LED’s are cheaply made and poor quality and may last 20% of those hours) but by that time, it will also be 90% less efficient than it was when it was new and is therefore, effectively useless.

I got the car back last night, all repaired by Skoda under the Skoda all in warranty I have with the car. I’m not sure how others would fair without the cover. The strange thing is that they haven’t told me what was actually wrong with the car. The service person said they’ll send me an email but nothing yet. I’d asked for a print out but they said that they can’t give me one since there was no cost. Id asked them to find why I had no warning lights on to show a fault with the fuel system but I didn’t get an answer. If I do get any info then I’ll update here.

You might be right. Fabia ’s hate weak batteries! I just scrapped a perfectly good Fabia 1.4 green line tda as it is not ulez compliant but the £2000 plus £250 scrap value plus a few spares are worth as much as the car was to sell! Annoying as it’s such an easy car to learn to drive in!

My 2023 Octavia

I bought my kit from Ali Express, and it was all straightforward and was plug and play for about £45. There is a full guide here. My tip would be to run the wire down to the back not up in the headlining. That way you don't have to worry about it fouling the airbags in the A-pillars and above the doors. I found a dowel and net curtain wire invaluable when threading the wire. Also plan ahead for where you're going to put the large boot trim down if/when you remove it so you don't mark your trim. Good luck!

The Fabia is a bit broken right now so I can't do any sort of photography like this with it at the moment, but I've got this.

I went in with the same information, gave then the tpi code, and when I collected it they told me it had been done. Switched on the car, and it was still on 1896. They basically lied and said they had done it, when they hadn't. When I pointed this out they tried to say it might have downgraded while I was waiting to collect it (another lie). Then they said the update can't be done by the garage anymore and had to be over the air (another lie). I hope your dealer is better than the Letchworth marshals branch.

Oops.. Apologies I must have misread

Yep it can but I'm not sure if the mapper will need a base map to go from...

Yes, it takes a while for the coolant and oil to reach operating temperature. Once your coolant temperature gauge is near to 90C, the windscreen vents will be very effective. If you can drive the car, this will warm the coolant faster than idleing the engine.

Welcome. I assume your car has no auxiliary heater so the coolant needs to get hot, heat the engine before opening the thermostat and allowing heat out of the heater. If i am wrong someone will correct this. ? Is it a petrol engine, as i think a TDI would be taking even longer to let you get heat? All depends on ambient temps.

Do you have a sunroof? the drain pipes in the A-Pillar can get clogged and cause a slow leak into the driver or passenger footwell from behind the glovebox. You won't notice the water until it builds up high enough to come over the carpet.

Nice guide, shame you didn't write it two days ago when I started fitting my camera As I did a few things differently, I'll add some extra info as it might help others. I used an OEM/original high camera from AiDU Auto on aliexpress. At time of writing they offered: - a highline kit for the MK3 Octavia at ~£75 - a highline kit with washer jet for a Tiguan also at ~£75 After a quick chat, they were happy to parameterise the Tiguan kit with an Octavia file so I bought the Tiguan kit. Given they were the same price/size/shape it seemed daft not to get the bonus washer jet Unfortunately, the washer jet pipe was slightly too short but I was able to remove the fittings on either end and use some PVC washer hose (4mm ID, 6mm OD) of the right length instead. I took a slightly different cable route, shown in yellow: Unlike the kit above, it's not 'plug and play' so you end up with a bunch of wires that need to be connected to the appropriate places. The cables are pre-terminated but as I already had the correct crimps, I cut them to length rather than having loads spare. Factory wiring diagram for the highline (PR-KA2) camera is as follows: The earth wire was shorter than the others so I used the earth point in the boot below the rear seatbelts: For power, I removed the fusebox and used fuse 18 as per a factory install: After trimming and terminating the wires, I ended up with this: - new wires highlighted in yellow - new connector tapping into the CAN-bus circled in light green For the CAN-bus connection, I de-pinned the original quadlock connecter and moved the two CAN-bus wires into a separate connector, this means I didn't need to cut or modify the original wiring to tap into the CAN-bus: The eagle eyed amongst you may notice I used a 5a fuse in slot 18. After a quick shopping trip, I've now replaced it with a 7.5a fuse as per the factory wiring diagram. Coding was super easy: - Address 19, add 6C to the installation list - Address 10, coding, tick byte 2 bit 4 - Address 5F, adaptions, change Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-VPS_0x0B to "activated" - Address 5F, adaptions, change Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-VPS_0x0B_msg_bus to "Infotainment data bus" All works just like a factory install with the various modes etc. As expected, the only error code currently stored is "no basic settings" so I'll need to print out a VAS6350 board and calibrate it at some point