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They would instigate a recurring "after you!" - "No No, after you!" cycle. 4 Audis would just collide reverse and ram each other again and again until there was only one left running like a Destruction Derby!

I believe the following is true and contradicts some of the comments above :- - The gas includes the addition of a lubricant, whose job helps preserve the seals. - The more frequently you use the AC the better as the lubricant gets pumped around and keep the seals protected. - AC is not just for summer cooling but for year round use, clearing the screen in winter. - Regular use also keeps at bay any moisture that can be trapped in the ducts that feed the car and filter, eventually the cause of foul smells. - The AC gas will leak out, some tests say 10% per year is to be expected. - Year on year you may not notice a loss in performance but it will definitely decline. - Don't bother with the main dealer, go to an air-con company or good independent garage. probably about £70. - A re-gas if done correctly purges the system. Everything is sucked out and the volumn checked. The extra required to bring it up to full volumn is then added along with the correct lubricant. - A re-gas every two to three years should keep the system in good order if you leave the switch set to on. Finally, you have a nice car with functions that make it an enjoyable place to be in. Why not look after them and enjoy it, Look on the bright side, the gas used in newer vehicles is costing about twice as much to keep on top of. Just my point of view - Colin

If four Teslas arrived at a mini roundabout at the same time, what would they do?

As high as you’d hope isnt a specification? Voltage on idle and doing short journies aren’t a correlation? Im still a bit confused what the technical reason is you think the battery is faulty

From my understanding, the only critical information for the adaptation is the battery type (fleece or EFB) and capacity - the serial number can be simply changed by one digit to indicate the battery has been changed.

Now you're just having a laugh, surely?

Good news it was replaced under warranty, efb's were probably originally fitted because they're cheaper.

If you have a leak you would know as the system will stop cooling in very short order. That is a leak that I am talking about and not the gradual loss of refrigerant gas that permeates through the rubber hoses unless they were made of a material costing more than the whole car. To the OP, if you feel that the cooling performance in summer is not as good as it once was then by all means pay for a vacuum down and recharge, you have had it done once, presumably at your request so you know the signs, it presumably lasted 6 years before needing that, I doubt you need to be concerned after 4 years. Or was the last "service" also upselling by the main dealer?

No, it's no different to any modern car, secure. I just don't lock anyone inside it as that would be silly.

A quick update on this. My car is going into the VW dealer to have Matrix Lights aligned. Apparently they are able to do it, so long as the Skoda dealer "sends their laptop" with the car... So I'm letting them have the car early January for a few days to do that and service it at the same time. I'll report back on how successful this is....

I use two microwaveable dryer packs to reduce condensation. A long run with the air con on will help. Having climate control helps. All modern manual cars require the clutch pedal to be depressed before they will start. Easy to forget if you don't drive it much. If my better half tells me her car won't start, the first step is to "press the clutch pedal". Hope this works.

Why don't you just lock the car yourself using the interior button instead of your partner using the key? It sounds like your car has the safelock system which is essentially a deadlock - this automatically engages when locking the car from the outside. If you read the manual, it literally says "DANGER - Danger to life! There must be no persons in a locked vehicle with the SAFE function activated." You can disable the deadlock by pressing the lock button twice within two seconds. The warning light in the driver's door will flash for about 2 seconds in quick succession after the vehicle is locked, then it goes out and after 30 seconds it flashes regularly at longer intervals. The warning light in the driver's door will flash for about 2 seconds in quick succession after the vehicle is locked, then it goes out and after 30 seconds it flashes regularly at longer intervals.

...the mass checked, but you say po-tay-toe, I say poh-tah-toe...

OK, I'll have a stab at answering your questions here, goes. 1,2 and 3 I don't see a way that you could enforce this as it would require police to pull over and check almost every car carrying 1 or more passengers unless it clearly visible that the driver met those ages. New cars can detect speed limits. this is strictly true is it? Do you know for a fact that all new cars can do this? Then you also have the fact that a speed sign could be obscured by say a bus, lorry, overhanging tree etc or even be defaced enough that system cannot detect the limit. You mention that they can also know the limits from Google maps, but someone has to update Google maps with the latest speed limits, which have recently changed in Wales, do you know, if all these changes have yet been updated on Google, or even TomTom and other sat navs. The built-in one in most Skodas and other VAG cars for instance will not know that info either. I have just updated to the latest maps on mine, and there are speed limits shown on it which do not reflect those in my city for instance. Apart from that how many teenagers do you know could afford to buy a new car with the latest tech, let also get insurance for a new car? The US rule of no passing of buses when they are alighting passengers, given that most buses the days are front entrance ones, you are unlikely to know if the bus is stopped at a bus stop for passengers to alight or disembark, or if it is just sitting in a traffic jam. To my mind, there is only one way to attempt to cure the problem and that is far better training in the first instance and far more police on the roads in unmarked cars so they can observe a person driving and if required stop them and deal with any observed problem before a nasty accident occurs, and it is too late. Speed cameras are not the answer, only more police on the roads, both high visibility and low key can do this.

Well, the government also allows idiots who film their self driving vehicles driving licences so there is that 🤷

just a quick flick down his twitter... ya k ow what, he and his wife clearly have good fun with it, and it doesnt hurt anyone (other some low iq spiteful anti- everything morons' feelings) so plough on i say! maybe we all need to learn to let go in "unusual" ways.

yes, given the conversation is about Boss Fox in a costume...

Thanks for the replies and ignore list suggestions. I stuck a new clutch and DMF in. Which in winter, on the drive with an occasional gazebo (windy too) for a shelter - was fun. Dropped the subframe to give me a little more wiggle room to get past the prop which helps, along with gravity. The refitting was less fun as gravity was no longer my friend and the gear and transfer box are quite a heavy unit. 5 hours of adjusting cargo straps and adding another quarter turn on the lifting chain while using my third (and indeed forth) arm to push the engine forward to clear the donut and get the prop relocated. I would say I'm in no rush to do it again, but the wife's Fiesta needs a clutch too. Least its smaller and same engine as my old Focus which by comparison was a doddle.

Absolutely. Still came as a surprise how total his immersion in the furry thing is. Don't know much about the scene. Looks quite good fun Wonder how you keep them clean inside? his 'foxy' race-helmet is amazing

You do understand that you have to depress the clutch and keep it held down in order to start the car don't you? I have a feeling we are being wound up here. So how have you been starting the car since February, by depressing and holding down the clutch pedal or not?

The Skoda Connect system has the following functions: 1) The eCall emergency call system, which will work for the life of the car at no cost to yourself. 2) The Proactive Service (Breakdown calls and Info calls using the buttons above the interior mirror) which will work for the first 10 years at no cost to yourself. This also includes obtaining a health report for your car via the app, Service Scheduling via the app, Online Personalisation to store your personal settings, and online system updates for the infotainment system - but the last is only for the app and shop settings, not map updates! 3) The Remote Access service is only free for the first year, and then has to be renewed annually. This lets you lock your car and receive messages from it via the app such as driving data, last parking position, vehicle status (doors & windows closed and locked and whether the lights are off) and anti-theft alarms. You can also sound the horn and flash the lights via the app to help you find your car in a big car park, as well as receiving area and speed notifications if you want to monitor someone else who is driving your car. You can also generate digital certificates recording your car's service history and mileage. 4) The Infotainment Online service is only free for the first year, and then has to be renewed annually. This provides regular map updates whenever you drive into a region that has been updated (typically I receive these every few months), online traffic information, nearby parking spaces and costs, nearby petrol stations and fuel costs, online route navigation avoiding traffic delays, online voice control if you want to talk to Laura, and sending a destination from the app to the car. I find the latter 2 worth the £80 or so each year, but others who prefer to use their phones instead will disagree. Chris

Skoda recommends the air-con is serviced every 2 years. My local main dealer (who services my Yeti) informs me they would not routinely service the air-con unless there was a problem with it. I am no major fan of the dealer, but I'll give them credit for explaining this. My Yeti is coming up to 7 years old and the air-con has never been serviced, but still functions correctly. I'll ask the dealer again about the air-con servicing when Yeti goes in for its 8th service.

It does not. The system is lubricated by PAG oil, this does not leach out of the flexible hoses like the refrigerant gas due to its molecular weight.

It also has a big warning on the Maxidot display about SAFELOCK every time the keys are removed from the ignition. You have 3 choices. Remain in an unlocked car, by far the safest option. Disable the deadlocking as described. Because that is what deadlocking is, you being able to open the door from inside is no different to a thief breaking a window and doing the same, what do you do with the front door of your house when you leave the home or when someone will be remaining in it?

20mph is too slow. I used to be able to run faster than this (just not for long!) Heaps of cyclists doing more than this too.

I think we all have to do that!

I'm sure it's in the manual about the headlight misting and it's normal

3 things done today: - Air Quality Sensor replaced: No more fault code popping up. - New battery installed. - Appointment book for sunroof side seals replacement (will be replaced in early january). BTW, the VCDS coding upon battery replacement, is really bullsh*t. My original battery was a 68Ah Varta, but I discovered the manufacturer code was JCB instead of VAO as it should be 😯. Additionally, the S/N was 1111111111 instead of the actual S/N figuring on the battery BEM code sticker 🙄. I nevertheless coded everything properly, at as it should be. Last point to fix is the inner ski hatch handle...

Brembo is part of your problem. absolute rubbish when fitted aftermarket - brembo calipers and such are brilliant, but pads are outsourced and generally the cheapest rubbish with a nice name tag. personally I’d fit something like ATE or TRW. or for aftermarket upgraded pads Ferrodo or EBC also the rear brakes on the mqb platform do next to none of the braking so fitting the upgraded rears won’t give you too much benefit sorry

..…..and it works amazing quickly.

Yes, what I've discovered fully confirm your sayings.

I just had the new battery installed today. I’ll monitor the voltage level over the coming days and weeks to see whether the battery discharges at a slower rate than the old one, which was losing between 0.1 and 0.05V per day, when not being used. Below is a screenshot which I took this evening, for the past 15 days. It was at about 12.29V this morning, before I took it to the garage to have the new battery fitted.

This was the first CTHE that he did i think. @vRSgone,s car was pretty quick running a BlueSpark tuning box back 9 years ago. Nobody had a Remap for them then.

None if there are no details!

I don't know of a scrap yard that you can now actually look around and pinch light bulbs from nowadays

Are you certain that the leaking oil was DSG transmission fluid? 💡 No electrical fault can cause transmission or other oil to leak from the engine/transmission unit.

It probably had the Oil change and software update since 2014 for free, Service Campaign 34F7. Sticker in Spare Tyre Well. It was a world wide recall and a European Service Campaign. The Serviced for life or oil for life trotted out are probably by those that do not know about the World Wide Recall o DQ200,s 2009-2012. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/517146-what-is-this-oil-leak http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/518213-my-dsg-gearbox-seems-playing-up Likely the cheap fix is no use to your box, that is an accumulator kit. That is for the issue common on 2013-2015 DQ200,s and there was a Service Campaign on them from 2017. 34H5. That was a pressure issue and cracked boxes and MCU,s. Software Update was as a preventive measure. ................................... No matter, but anyone at a Dealership that does not know this stuff are really not a Technician. Any Auto Specialists should know it. As it is the diagnosis is important and this not relevant to your issue now, If the original DSG / Parts still fitted to the car.

You have not said what if any problems caused you to put the car into the hands of the garage Editted, I could not see the thread title when reading your posting. My apologies. A worn clutch would not create a fluid leak, its likely to be a leaking gasket, try asking the MOT garage where they think the leak is coming from

Further attached pics, couldn't upload them to my previous post due to their size. Pictures of the plastic trim piece that attaches to the rear light cluster and of the rear light cluster itself. The plastic trim piece on the picture below attaches to the side of the rear brake light cluster, the top of the trim piece is flexible, the water was getting past that, followed my car body downwards then came out into the boot between the joint. I've sealed the top of the black trim piece to the car body with some some flexible black gutter seal. Hopefully this will stop the water going into the boot. Although this has to come off if you were to change the rear light cluster bulbs. So not sure if it's down to bad design.

That's what I thought In similar vein, my DSG auto will not start unless I have my foot on the brake. If I attempt to start with my foot off the brake, I get the message "Depress the Brake!" My understanding is that these are safety features to prevent the car from lurching forward if the engine is started with the transmission in gear.

My other half went into a shop, leaving me in the car and (due to a good habit) locked the car as he walked away, I haven't a clue about any of this. If I were stuck in the car and the doors didn't open I'd assume the deadlocks were activated so my first thought would be to try the global lock/unlock switch on the dashboard? But when you think about it, deadlocks are there to stop doors being opened even when a window is smashed, so it's a bit counter-intuative to be able to open the doors whe the car has the deadlocks activated? Don't lock people in cars might be your only solution. It sounds a great solution if you have a nagging other half tho Skoda may sell more cars if they advertise this feature.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121630933363 https://www.ckcautosport.com/embragues-sport/163158-embrague-black-diamond-bdc9805pwr-ceramico-8434207311485.html Not for our wallet.

Rather than the car requesting the update to 1941 the dealer (or Master Technician) should be checking for compatibility of the car with 1941. In some cases it’s a two stage update, something like from 16xx to 18xx then 1941. Mine is similar generation, registered Sept ‘20, an SEL FE. It’s one of those that needed two years to get sorted, tested my patience but we got there and now I have a great car that is surprisingly economical to run and loads of space.

I also had this. I reported here before. The dealer kinda went "that's normal". Mine somehow fixed itself.......

Mine also does it, but I'm waiting for it to stop raining before investigating - should be around late March next year.

So many stars visible last night ✨️

It's normal don't worry

On my Sportline the "wire netting " is not visible. It is a metal film

Non OE units are far cheaper at £150 per pair and, of course, are made by the OE suppliers.