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Frost on the Yeti's bonnet on Boxing Day.

Did I last post here in October? Jesus Christ Almighty. Anyhoo, just back in and defrosting from doing the rear wheel bearings. Driver's side one fell apart as we removed it, other side came out fine. One less thing to do regardless. Got the towing eye out too, looks a lot better. Photos to follow.

I don’t see any rude responses at all? We’ve asked for the list of fault codes to guide you as you haven’t provided one we can only guess what may be wrong? You’ve replied to the thread a few times but still haven’t sent a list so we are none the wiser. And if two garages and the symptoms point towards a gearbox fault, then simply the fact that it’s expensive and you don’t want a bill of £3-4000 doesn’t mean they aren’t right. I wouldn’t say anyone is being obnoxious or rude, the first rule is you can’t help someone that doesn’t want to help themselves, and if you won’t post the exact fault codes you have, then we have absolutely 0 chance of being able to assist you.

Visited the Belton House Christmas Light Trail this evening.......... 20231228_174003.mp4

Photos as promised.

If your local garage says it's the DSG, and if the Skoda dealer said it's the DSG, then what makes you believe it's something else? You're right, it could be something else, but if all evidence points at it being the DSG why would you think differently? Doesn't the fact the car 'jolts' make that probability even stronger? If you don't trust your local Skoda dealer then have it checked by another Skoda dealer - or any VW / SEAT / AUDI dealer or a VAG specialist. And if it is the DSG at fault, then depending on that fault, it may be able to be repaired rather than spending £3-4K for it to be replaced altogether. ( Why have they quoted you £3-4K to fix if all they've done is run diagnostics? What fault was being reported? ). Depending on the fault, a DSG can be repaired rather than be replaced: There are others but to use but one example see https://www.autogearbox.co.uk/dsg-gearbox-repairs/ However wouldn't you agree it's pointless speculating until you know what the problem is?

Hello everyone, I decided to create a topic about canton amplifier 3G035466. There is similar topic on Octavia forum but there is a 3Q0035466A amp. Speaking of speaker ratings for the Canton system in the Superb...... Some photos attached. So, there is 3x TDA7803A nad 2x FDA802. TDA7803A is a quad channel amplifier capable of deliver – 4 x 27 W 4 Ω @ 14.4 V, 1 kHz, THD = 10% – 4 x 47 W 2 Ω @ 14.4 V, 1 kHz, THD = 10% FDA802 is a dual channel class-D amplifier capable of deliver– 2 x 120 W /4 Ω @ 35 V, 1 kHz THD = 1% (2 x150 W /4 Ω @ 35 V, 1 kHz THD =10%) – 2 x 140 W /8 Ω @ 50 V, 1 kHz THD = 1% (2 x180 W /8 Ω @ 50 V, 1 kHz THD =10%) Link for datasheets: https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/tda7803a.pdf https://www.st.com/resource/en/data_brief/fda802.pdf FDA802 is capable of driving 4 Ω speakers but on 35V. I cannot find any full datasheet so no characteristics is available. But judging by the main capacitors voltage (63V) probably it is powered from 50V so 4 Ω speakers might be an issue. I will test that soon. So info from a Skoda brochure should be quite precise. 610W is and RMS power.

Here we go. Or have i missed the boat again

One of the reverse lights have gone out - two years for NZ$10 I can't complain about, so bought the same pair again. They have reduced the diode count however I reckon they're brighter, we'll see how long they last though (not sure if they'll last as long).

Ah the VAG water pump issue. Had it happen on my little 1.4 litre diesel, was just out of warranty and would have cost nearly £1k to fix, got it done for £750 by an ex Skoda dealership. All very well having a car that can do 70 mpg but when it is so difficult, time consuming and therefore labour expensive just to change a water pump, oh and you may as well change the thermostat and something else whilst you are down there the bill mounts up. So much more pleasant with a nice simple EV. Lithium prices dropped to one fifth of what it was at the start of 2023 so much cheaper battery pack will be on the way and therefore much cheaper EVs. No subsidies needed.

The Model 3 droplink is known issue and I remember mentioned by Kate and James or RSymons in one of their video. It is covered under warranty but not a recall. "Just get a Tesla" guy recent video shows MY rear hatch latch issue and he got it replaced under warranty. Apparently a known issue. His car is probably same batch as my car because he also took delivery in early September 2022. So I'll be using rear hatch a bit more to hopefully make it fail within 4 yr warranty. VAG will replace water pump free of charge under warranty if it failed within warranty period, but would decline warranty claim a few months out of warranty. My Octavia had water pump leak a few month out of 3 yr warranty, guess who had to foot the bill. All cars have issues, getting dealerships to recognise the issue and make warranty claim from manufacturer is often a battle in itself. Tesla operate differently and some warranty claims are easier, some are harder.

His engineering is putting audi, seat, skoda and vw and the other non Chinese car makers out of business. Customer service is not what some have come to expect and the best service comes from ev specialist mechanics some who travel to one's home. Generally reliable cars with a fractional of the servicing of ice cars from what I gave heard from ev specialist servicing guys. Hope 2024 brings me a salary sacrifice model 3 or Y, not decided but nice not to have to pays the luxury road tax on the std range model 3 now after the recent price cut to below £40k rrp.

Has the car had the dieselgate emissions ‘fix’? I’ve had 2 2.0tdi mk2s. The 2013 140 never had the update, the 2015 170 had it before I bought it. Never felt any more powerful than my old 140 and would regen every 100-120 miles no matter whether I was driving urban or motorway. I found a fantastic Facebook group dedicated to putting people in touch with garages / tuners who can restore the car’s software to what it left the factory with. I had the rollback done locally, cost £100 & it was like having a new car. So much more responsive and torquey, could have sworn he’d remapped it. The VAG DPF app confirms an earlier pre ‘fix’ software file has been loaded on. Regens are now every 270-300 miles if I’m doing lots of start / stop urban driving & 400+ if I’ve got a lot of motorway miles between fillups. MPG is up slightly too. Search for EA189 Fix Reversal Assistance on Facebook. If you want the details of the guy I used in Oldham feel free to ask.

Not sure if this is helpful but here goes anyway I bought the Seat Arona I recently traded in for the Karoq from the sale overall Dealership. Different branches had different franchises. They retro-fitted a rear view camera to the Arona and it was fully integrated with the Infotainment system. Considering the overlap both makes have with the VW Group I'd have thought Skoda could do it if Seat could manage it. And fwiw, I got quotes from a few local ICE (Entertainment, not Combustion) specialists and the Dealer came out the cheapest. Never missed a beat in the 3 years or so I had it.

That is what I would have understood but for the question marks. You need to be more and more a mind reader on this forum these days. I can see now that the question preceeds the comma. My answer is no.

Load bearing alloy wheel!

Yeah I was thinking smaller back boxes might get me closer to where I wanna be. I did also see people were removing the resonator, but like you said it seems like it creates a lot of drone, and in a car that is already lacking in sound proofing I think it'd be deafening. Been considering biting the bullet and going for a full catback but that price is eye-watering. I also saw about the 230 having a louder exhaust than the 220 when I bought mine, was driving it home thinking the exhaust seemed pretty tame for something sporty. Then read further into it, in the pre-facelift cars the 220 was the standard VRS model, and the 230 was the "sportier" version with uprated exhaust and more toys, then when the facelifted models came along, the 230 became the standard and the 245 got all the toys. Not that it would have influenced my decision about buying it but wish I'd have realised it sooner. Much like your 220, my car is annoyingly whisper quiet 🤣 Thanks for your advice bud!

Only 3 posts and already saying people are being rude/unkind when people are only asking for a list of the faults to try and help you out, which you still have not posted. I don't think any posts are rude/unkind but just trying to help you out on the limited info you seem to want to share. If you really want help you have to give people as much info as possible to assist you.

I had this lie from one dealer. When I told them many other dealers had provided the update manually, they magically managed to find "a usb" stick with it on. By then I had taken it to another dealer who just did it without any fuss during a routine service. Try to find a better dealer.

It depends. 1941 is being distributed as OTA in batches. Only a few cars have received it OTA so far. The dealership can also update it manually if there's a problem listed in the documents further back in this thread. BS, unless you're in Australia where the eSIM doesn't work (from what I've heard). BS BS

Ah here lays the problem. Tesla taunts "no service". There are regular maintenance recommendations but no service requirement. I don't have to do any service to maintain the 4 year warranty. As such, "schedule a service" in the app gets the user to raise a concern or ask for service work to be done. So traditional idea of fixed interval service is not something can be relied upon in Tesla ownership. But similarly, why didn't VAG dealership do the infamous waterpump during service? With Leaf, I had some sort of earthing service item done during service FoC. Could I "raise a concern" with the rear tail hatch and see if I can get it changed because it's a known issue? I may try it. I tried something similar with Octavia's 2.0 TDI, where I found details of service bulletin for firmware update on the ECU to cure warm weather engine cranking issue (takes longer to crank in warm weather). The dealership guy just asked "where did I get this info", want to charge half hour diagnostic fee, book it in for another date and would not entertain it is warranty related.

As above, if the tune is otherwise good then it should be ok with increased load and I'd expect the car to be overheating in the same conditions but without the tune. Where it could be an issue is that you have more torque low dow making it easier to tow in a higher gear. This is causing the turbo to work harder and, if an engine driven water pump (?), the water flow will be reduced making it less effective at cooling. I would suggest starting the climb at higher revs. This will load the clutch less (torque wise) and keep the flow of fluids up. If you are still having overheating issues then start looking at upgrading rads etc. then oil cooler. Might also be worth checking that the coolant is topped up and there are no blocks for both air flow and fluid.

Thanks all Happy New Year

I think he wants the rust removed and meant "Rust on outside of caliper doesn't affect performance or safety, so will anyone at the shop care enough to make it a warranty case?"

if you have a gmail email message me and i can share the files using google drive

Welcome. Where did you hear about the flat spot. I really am not aware of that with a TDI or TSI with a 6 or 7 speed Wet Clutch DSG, or even 7 Speed Twin Dry clutch which 2 litres do not get. (Some mention a lag with the DQ200 DSG,s, but then they are on lots of engines under 192 ps / 250 Nm. including on 1.5 TSI ACT,s & 1.0 TSI,s.)

I think the OP may be referring to the safelock message when you turn off ignition and remove the key.

As you have the SE L I was told that the heated seats uses much less power than putting the air con on. This morning I had driven less than a mile on electric. I was in a car park and 'floored it' (the car park was empty) and teh engine kicked in even though I had the mode setting to electric. I presume that every so often it actually needs to run the engine. I would like to know what MPG people are getting on hyrbid only on a motorway / A road only run

They are like VW Group and it is not a Recall unless they decide it is Safety Critical and in the UK tell the DVSA / DfT. or are told by them to do a recall. VW Group can tell the DVSA that they will do voluntary recalls and then not, or that they are not necessary and the work shop campaign will pick up the few that might have issues. The percentage failing can have them deciding if they will wing it. The thing is not all do Servicing regularly and EV,s are maybe 2 years or more before looked at, maybe just a visual and a brake fluid change as with MINI / Skoda etc. There are serious stuff that slips without RECALLS. Corporate Responsibility is something that really is pathetic when there are fatalities that are from a known fault or something potentially faulty. Directors, CEO,s / Heid yins are the ones that should carry the can, need to get Soap on a rope at Christmas.

Icy icy very very icy with no gritting / salt as all washed off and much flooding. 3.3 miles a kWh @ 0*oC for 40 miles. Average speed just above 30 mph.

You mentioned on hot weather and steep terrain - you might not be using the peak power but you'll be using the peak torque and working that turbo. Definitely will need to upgrade the cooling - a lot of tunes aren't exactly tested towing in hot weather with increased load like the manufacturers do.

As above posters said, it’s the repeated reheating the cabin that is probably taking away a lot of range. if you’re going to drive a short distance, like 1 mile, then maybe consider pre heating, or just not having any heating at all for that journey. i can’t imagine you’ll feel much warmth in the time it takes to drive 1.5 miles anyway. maybe also try turning the regen off. i find it’s better to coast as much as possible rather than try and regen every time you lift off the throttle. If you plan your braking well then you can get the regen from the brake pedal when you actually need to slow down, very rarely need to actually use the friction brakes in normal traffic. I find I get better efficiency form coasting rather than cycling between regen, accelerating regen accelerating.

I've had a few different ones fitted to my Fabia. Honestly, your listening experience will be subject to your own hearing abilities and whatever state your speakers are in. As such, I couldn't definitively state a specific head unit as there are billions out there. However, I've found Alpine to be pretty reasonable. Although I've got tinnitus and one of the units was a cassette player. Make of that what you will.

If it’s a good reputable map then it’ll be fine. If the map was the problem the engine would throw a code and it would go into safe mode. I had a superb sportline 4x4 mapped to 235bhp 530nm and never had an issue fully loaded etc !! Uprated rad and fan set would be the thing here I think and if you wanted to an Uprated oil cooler would certainly not do any harm.

Despite all the nay sayers like yourself TESLA will have the best selling car in 2023 and have shown the most powerful ICE car another drubbing down the quarter mile strip ie both cars over 1000 hp, ice car 500 lbs lighter and still drubed 3 nil.

Try switching back to another drive mode to see if this behaviour changes. If it is the anti-stall cutting in, it sounds to me as if something is not quite right in the way it's working - especially in the higher gears.

Actually i would expect that there could be design and engineering issues with new models / vehicles being designed and manufactured by new companies. But then it is how the issues are addressed and dealt with. It is companies with 100 years plus of manufacturing vehicles that i find can be disappointing when generation after generation they build in the same faults or worry more about simply clever features but forget about the engineering and quality control and can not get things as simple as registration plate lights on cars and not be rust traps.

I don't think there is water ingress other than between the bulb holder and car body but I plan to take off the tail gate trim to check. I will try to get some 770 grease or similar.

09 for bcm 6d for electric tailgste although a faulty boot switch won’t give a fault - it will just think you aren’t pressing it.

I flattened my battery using a cooler box. Camping in France. I then fitted a hard wired automatic cut out which senses when the voltage drops too low. Towsure etc in the UK. I prefer the permanently live sockets overall.

You should start with the water temperature problem, that is far more serious and no matter how much of an upgraded oil cooler you fit, water at 120°c if it really is that hot is not going to cool your oil sufficiently. Oil is the primary coolant and the coolant system is rated higher than necessary to maintain a constant 90°c to have the capacity to cool the oil. Given your increased engine power and the conditions where you experienced overheating you should drive slower up these hills in a lower gear using partial throttle, the speeds an unmodified vehicle would achieve, secondly fit an uprated coolant radiator and then only when the coolant temperature is a constant 90°c should consider the oil cooler if the oil temp is above 125°c. How were the measurements taken? Did the vehicle lose coolant?

Bone stock L&K with 41kkms on it.

Oil will naturally be showing higher on the dipstick when it is cold as the oil will slowly trickle down.

When you remotely unlock the car it will turn on the interior light plus the useful puddle lights in the wing mirrors. You can add dipped beam to this if "leaving home" is available which I think means having auto lights and maybe a different set of features in the software pack. Yes you do. If you flash the lights when you are still in the car then they will come on as you open the door (but cancels if you leave it too long). The count down delay to turn off the car lights starts when you lock the car doors. With my delay set at max it gives me enough time to walk 30-40 feet to my front door, get out my key and unlock the front door of the house. I did all the programing on mine with the Carista app, of which this is just one of many changes.

Just found this new video that has done some actual tests on after market lamps v OEM the results might surprise you.

Please be more specific, what have you tested with a multimeter, how have you tested it, what is the values of the test? The way this system work is there is no 'unlock/lock' for the boot. There is simply 2 boot latching releasing methods - the key fob middle button that works all the time, and the external boot handle when pressed sends a 12v signal to the BCM, this then checks if the car is in a locked or unlocked state, if its in an unlocked state, it sends 12v to the boot latch to release it. So if the key fob is releasing the boot latch, then the boot latch and wiring to it is working no problem. The only part that is going to be faulty is the wiring to the external boot button or the external boot button itself. Thats why im a bit confused when you say youve tested it but wont say how or what the outcome is.

Thanks ULEZ this is my my new ride 😎

Bronze Drum Award at the prestigious Golden Drum Festival for marketing and advertising professionals Four Platinum Awards at the Muse Awards 2022 in New York The film follows a young woman’s pursuit of freedom and independence in 1980s Prague and depicts her relationship with the ŠKODA brand Watch the 3:48 clip here: https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-releases/awards-for-the-way-of-life-film-accompanying-the-world-premiere-of-the-skoda-enyaq-coupe-rs-iv/ Emotive story, well done I thought. Not sure VAG Skoda totally fills the description. Your thoughts?

That just messes up,the playlists not what I want, if I'm listening to an album I want to continue listening to that album when I get back into the car.

I had the same thing, I found that the air vents were making a lot of creaking (in my case) noises when cold, its interesting that when you think you know where the noise is its in a completely different area! . I have sprayed all the vents (where it rest against the dash) with a spray grease and know more noise. In fact I use spray grease for any creak and rattle and it works a treat.