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All, We are grateful for the engaging discussions, diverse perspectives, and shared knowledge that make this forum a valuable space for everyone. Lately, we've observed an uptick in spirited conversations, which is fantastic. We want to remind everyone of the importance of maintaining a positive and civil tone in our interactions. The strength of our community lies in our ability to communicate respectfully and foster an environment where everyone feels comfortable expressing their thoughts. Here are a few gentle reminders: Kindness Matters: Remember that there is a real person behind each username. Treat others with the same respect and courtesy you would expect for yourself. Constructive Criticism: If you disagree with someone, focus on the ideas rather than the person. Constructive criticism can be enlightening and contribute to healthy discussions. Avoid Pedantry: While sharing knowledge is encouraged, let's strive to do so without being overly pedantic. We all come from different backgrounds and levels of expertise, and our diversity is what makes our community thrive. Stay on Topic: Ensure that your contributions align with the thread's subject. This helps maintain the coherence of discussions and allows others to follow the conversation easily. Report Concerns: If you come across any content that violates our community guidelines, please use the reporting tools. We rely on your help to keep our forum a safe and enjoyable space for everyone. Remember, the strength of our community lies in the collective efforts of its members. Let's continue to build a space where diverse opinions are celebrated, and discussions are conducted with empathy and understanding. Thank you for your commitment to making our forum a welcoming place for all.

It's the BMS (battery monitoring system) doing its job, so it's not over charging a new battery that doesn't need it.

The legacy auto-makers BMW, Merc, VW, as well as Jag I suppose, are just not producing competitive cars compared to what TESLA and even the Chinese are knocking out at the moment as What Cars test shows. VW might say the ID7 is a slightly bigger and perhaps premium cabin offering than the Model 3 and BYD Seal but the difference are large in the efficiency of the drive train as well as prices between the other two competitors. I hoped it was only just the bottom and middle part of the market the legacy automakers were going to lose their market share on but it looks like premium as well. It will be interesting to see how the electric Macan sells this year. With Porsche going full electric, as is Jaguar, they are putting all the eggs in the EV basket bravely. (vid below 1st one).

If you're doing something such as closing the garage door while the car is outside with the engine running, just close the driver's door or turn the engine off. I can't immediately think of a reason to regularly leave a car with the engine running and the driver's door open.

This is the issue with dealerships, if its not written on a bit of paper, they have no idea how to do it! A bit of common sense from a mechanic says to undo the 2 bolts and it just pops out, but like you said, not a standard procedure so they wont do it

It's time we move on, thank you all for participating. All, We are grateful for the engaging discussions, diverse perspectives, and shared knowledge that make this forum a valuable space for everyone. Lately, we've observed an uptick in spirited conversations, which is fantastic. We want to remind everyone of the importance of maintaining a positive and civil tone in our interactions. The strength of our community lies in our ability to communicate respectfully and foster an environment where everyone feels comfortable expressing their thoughts. Here are a few gentle reminders: Kindness Matters: Remember that there is a real person behind each username. Treat others with the same respect and courtesy you would expect for yourself. Constructive Criticism: If you disagree with someone, focus on the ideas rather than the person. Constructive criticism can be enlightening and contribute to healthy discussions. Avoid Pedantry: While sharing knowledge is encouraged, let's strive to do so without being overly pedantic. We all come from different backgrounds and levels of expertise, and our diversity is what makes our community thrive. Stay on Topic: Ensure that your contributions align with the thread's subject. This helps maintain the coherence of discussions and allows others to follow the conversation easily. Report Concerns: If you come across any content that violates our community guidelines, please use the reporting tools. We rely on your help to keep our forum a safe and enjoyable space for everyone. Remember, the strength of our community lies in the collective efforts of its members. Let's continue to build a space where diverse opinions are celebrated, and discussions are conducted with empathy and understanding. Thank you for your commitment to making our forum a welcoming place for all.

Interesting. The 2.0 tsi superb sportline was pretty good on fuel then ? Back of an envelope calculations, looking at your real world figures, assuming super unleaded costs £1.45/litre the 2.0 tsi cost £12.92 to do the 100 mile journey. The IV costs about £10.81 in petrol plus £1.00 for the full charge at home, which is £11.81 to travel the 100 mile journey, so £1.11 less for the 100 mile journey. My 2015 Octavia 1.4 tsi is averaging 42.9 mpg (real world calculations) on normal unleaded. Assuming the current price of £1.38/litre mine costs £14.62 to travel the 100 mile journey so an IV would be £2.81 less for the 100 mile journey.

Just the one, not generally a failing component so no need to replace others. albeit I still check the others for any signs of failing

Colourful start to the day...........

OE is £180, The OEM one made by FAG is £40, I think I’ll go for the FAG one at them prices

Some of them certainly do heat scavenging. Eg. Tesla: Explanation of Tesla's "octovalve": https://www.tesmanian.com/blogs/tesmanian-blog/deep-looks-into-tesla-model-y-s-octovalve I hear the new BMW i5 does have heat scavenging. Legacy auto are slowly catching up. Although the i5 still built on ICE platform with poor interior space and 1.6m bonnet without any storage underneath. Under the bonnet is a huge mess of coolant tubes to achieve similar thing to Octovalve.

On two occasions I have done 100,000 miles on a set of pads and over 10 years motoring. I have never changed pads until they are worn down and have never experienced a pad or brake shoe failure.

I will be replacing the Canton system later on with new amp and dsp. But for now I've upgraded the center speaker already with a Hertz ML700.3. I've made a speaker adapter that will fit perfectly. Speaker is also a 4 Ohm speaker. Sound quality is amazing. I will upgrade the tweeters in front doors soon. As they are also 4 Ohm.

V1 and V2 have similar backend inverter (the giant cabinet hidden away nearby), 150 kW shared between 2 stalls. V1 are pretty much extinct. V2 is still around, they have 2 cables, one for old S/X and standard CCS for all cars. V3 and V4 have similar backend, currently. 1,000 kW shared across 4 stalls, in another words, 250 kW for all stalls. V3 are seen in the video and have a single CCS cable. V4 have longer cable and contactless payment terminal. V4 is said to be compatible with up to 1000v when backends get upgraded for 800v cars. Summary of that video is 28 minutes 4% to 80%. Extrapolate to 200 miles range in all weather means up to 150 miles per hop, 30min charge. Long range is similar percent-wise, at 250 kW peak means still under 30min to charge to 80%. 250 miles in all weather means up to 200 miles per hop, 30min charge. For price, let's not forget cars are expensive these days. £40k is the new £30k. Model Y start at £45k but contains every comfort option by default. Only configurable are tow hitch, enhanced autopilot and colour/wheel options. Superb 2015 used to start at £20k: https://www.parkers.co.uk/skoda/superb/review/ Superb now starts at £31k, 150% price inflation and goes all the way to £41k, all before optional extras: https://www.skoda.co.uk/new-cars/range

Also just had some good news. My boss (the current legal owner till it passes its test since we can't re-register it without that) has found the "log-book" with the mods declared so we don't need the extended check as this can now just be carried over 😁

I agree, they charge an absolute fortune its disgusting but I am taxi driver I do not earn enough money to pay these exorbitant charges so rather than the car be off the road while they try and figure it out it was easier to just fit gas struts and get back out there earning.

I know this post was originally in 2022 but it has so helped me now in Jan 2024. I have a 2016 skoda superb estate with electric struts that stopped working, These cost over £500 each to replace so did not want to go down this road. So I searched around for used ones from scrapyards etc and spent £350 for a used pair, what a waste of money they didn't work. I bought a pair of after market knock offs from ebay at £250 again no joy they wouldn't work but I managed to get a refund thankfully. I decided after loads of messing about to replace them with gas struts from europarts at £78 a pair. They work perfectly fine but as you said on here the tailgate does not go quite as high as it did with the electric ones and you risk banging your head when using the boot.... Well after reading this post I've sussed it, it is not the number 52 bracket you need it is number 5 Ball stud (5E5827439) !! when you open the tailgate have a look about 4 or 5 inches below where the bottom of the electric struts fit, there is small rubber gromit protecting a threaded hole this hole is where the ball stud fits for the GAS struts Yessssss. When you fit the bottom bit of the gas strut to this hole once you have screwed in a ball stud... success the tailgate lifts to the proper height, thanks guys hope this helps someone else as it was a proper light bulb moment for me, thank you all

Apparently according to the word on the street, social media, and news media EV sales are dropping, cars are piling up on dealership forecourts, or maybe just in the USA. Supposedly people are getting rid of EV,s and going back to ICE vehicles. Whatever is going on is going on anyway and if people do not want touch screens, or touch areas with no feed back and Right hand drive and left hand screens so not suit then people buying / leasing their own cars need not have that. Voice activated rubbish can be a total PITA if it needs talked to in certain ways and even then does not do what is required. Employees might just have to tell the bosses they don't want that crap either.

I only said that because usually it is the younger person who is almost joined at the hip to the latest models of smartphones and tablets and therefore more at home with the digital screens and controls that are of the touch type. I personally find that even with my current car which does have some touch controls, that I have noticed that I have to look at what I'm doing in order to correctly operate the correct thing. However, in my earlier Superbs and indeed other cars before them even, I could locate the control I needed without looking and just go by the feel and know that I had the right switch etc, all without compromising safety. The same is also true, but to a lesser degree, with early mobile phones for instance as they had physical push buttons that were highly tactile and also often had different contours on some of them so it was easy to identify which button does what without needing to look at it, i.e, I used have one of these Nokia phones, fitted in a cradle, hardwired to the car and it was possible to answer calls and hang up without taking eyes of the road because the buttons almost "told" you by their feel what one you needed. The same with vehicle controls, there were no menus to navigate because a switch only had a single function to do.

Sorry, I've come to this post late but it's worth noting that there are companies that will repair a whole range of electronic components across a variety of manufacturers. They often offer lifetime warranties and a repair tends to come in at a fraction of the cost of a dealer sourced new item. This is an example of an Amundsen rebuild for £250 plus carriage: https://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalogue/skoda/yeti/navigation-and-entertainment-control-unit/nec315119/ The procedure to remove and refit the unit is straightforward and the only tools required are a plastic trim removal lever and a T20 torx driver. If you're unsure, there is an explanation on YouTube here:

Not being liked too much is it. I'll say it again, in my view, cars that try so hard at minimising the number of physical buttons, knobs and switches in a car are really pandering to the younger driver / owners who it seems rather like the touch controls, I don't and it feels far too much concentration is required to operate them and navigate through the menu system/layers, coupled with such blistering acceleration is going to lead to many accidents I feel. When you factor in as well that many countries are banning the interaction with a hand held mobile while the ignition is active because of the accident rates / risk, then the designers of cars like this are not really helping much are they?

I have in the past seen indents or holes in the backing plate and the friction material has had locating pegs sticking into them, the idea was that they would take the shear force if the bond was to fail but pad material is very brittle, you could not rely on it holding up under an emergency stop. I know the reason this was dropped, water ingress through the holes was creeping into the bond by capillary action creating rust which seperated the pad from the backing, just like what is visible in the OP's photograph.

If Boeing ignored you then I dont hold out much hope for you with Bosch 😁 You might just pique their interest though if you include the words possible counterfeit and Eurocarparts, I recommend that you send them a photo of the security hologram if you still have the box, otherwise they are not unlikely to share your outrage and concern.

Sounds like it could well be an injector problem.??? Can you test out each injector?

I realise you are pretty certain it's the seal around the tailgate button that's letting water in but if yours is an estate I'd suggest a more likely place for water ingress is the rubber grommet around the rear windscreen wiper shafts. They are a common failure on VWs and I've had the issue on my Kodiaq (and the mk2 Octavia previously). Any water getting in at the wiper shafts would drip onto the button for the rear hatch.

So for reference. I tend not to go below 75miles remaining, 40 minimum Unless I'm trying to prove a point with 'Brim to empty' Range. My receipts generally show 64-66 Litres on a Fill-up. (I'm assuming that mine is a 70 Litre Fuel Tank).

I'm, it's been a stressful week. My Skoda Superb Sportsline has the Panoramic Sunroof. The car was valeted 2 days before delivery to the Skoda Main Dealership. It would be virtually impossible to not have noticed or seen the alleged defect that day or any other day. I did a test drive on the Karoq, it has no sunroof but drove very well. My husband checked over the Karoq at which point the salesman completed the transaction. The salesman did not check my car before, then, later or at all. He had moved my car on us leaving the garage nothing said, 3 hours later we spoke about the MOT nothing said. Only some 5 hours after arrival at the garage did he state an examination had found a defect across my car roof. Then all he was concerned with was me paying the money to have the Superb repaired. He declined to return £1800 balance paid towards the purchase of their car or even present a way forward. So they basically wanted us to loose £4500. I genuinely presented my Superb without any visible defects and all they have done is dismissed me. It is the worst experience I have had and if they had done things properly would we or they completed the sale.

And took the chance to give her a quick wipe down with a spray wax and polished up the exhaust tip which was looking a bit sorry for itself (obviously not been done in years).

Hello everyone, just saying hello! Cast your minds back to roughly 1973 or 4 when I encountered Skoda for the first time at a garage where I pumped petrol to support me in college ( remember when garages actually served fuel?!) anyway this particular garage was the first in the area and must have been one of the first in the uk to sell Skodas but they also sold Moskvitchs alongside the Skoda (was it a Skoda 110?) anyway, these cars seemed remarkable to the public, notjust because theywere cheap, but because they came with a very full toolkit, which was amazing in those days. Anyway, fast forward 50 or so years and I'm about to take delivery of a 2023 Superb estate so hello to everyone and thanks for having me.. now off to post my first question elsewhere.........

Yes they did.

2019 - Add two years essentially doing nothing during covid. Not saying it’s ok, but it may be related to corrosion whilst sat with zero use for extended periods. It will be interesting to see if Bosch want them back to inspect or otherwise?

It means more if people say what their cars Tank Capacity is given as, it does not include up the pipe. Then if they started with a bimmed tank how many litres did it take to brim again after the miles covered.

I have read also for Toyota-Honda-Ford-Mercedes AMG etc engines. We have Lotus official seller here in Greece (although Chinese own the company) together with Maserati. Some GR videos Here. Tour from USA

To add an update, I am now on other side of the 1000 miles mark on the odometer and the MPG has improved noticeably. I am getting an additional 10MPG than I was a few weeks ago on the same journeys. Even in sub-zero temperatures in the dark. I'll update again if I see further improvement.

I have a few concerns. Unless things have changed dramatically since I bought my car 3.5 years ago (2019 SE L), cars with a really high spec like that are hard to find, and tend to get snapped up quickly. So a car in a good colour that is highly specced-up is unlikely to be sat at a dealer's for a couple of months, let alone 18 months. I hear Google Chrome has an extension that allows you to track price drops on AutoTrader. If that is correct, it might be worth seeing how much that car was originally put up for sale at and track the price changes. Also, as @kodiaqsportline says, that interior really is very nice. That might be down to meticulous care by the previous owner, but if that were the case, it seems unlikely that a meticulous owner would let the brakes get to a dangerous state to be bounced at the MOT. That seems odd to me. But if everything works and it drives well, it looks like a nice car with an unusually high spec. I think I'd run a vehicle check on it to ensure there are no nasty surprises waiting to be discovered. Good luck!

Hi everyone, I tried the upgrade and I it worked like a charm. The process took less than 10 minutes and I got rid of the audio bug it was neither a problem with the old hardware 671 nor with smartlink activated with an extra license And it´s obviously not limited to a Fabia as it worked in my Rapid Thanks again, you made my day Manuel

About the same as the same as when you was parked up before but it depends on what electric consumption your car is using at the time and whether any significant load was left running, or drain, over night. You want to use the OBD to compare against the last OBD reading for consistency as the phone charger might always show a different result to your OBD being different devices. Personally I prefer a reasonable quality multimeter directly on to the battery terminal posts if you want to know the battery voltage at that point, but you would have to had taken a reading this way when the battery was first installed to know the difference. Depends on what electric consumption your car is using at the time and whether any significant load was left running, or drain, over night but I would consider 12.0v bad. My wife's AGM battery arrived in the post at 12.4v which is fine for the battery but I personally prefer to install the battery at 100% charge, though it isn't necessary, which will show something like 12 point 7, 8 or even 9 on a multimeter (after its surface charge has been lost). Hopefully you are fully sorted by now. As my wife does lots of short journeys I found I have done more preventative charges of the AGM battery fitted June 2021 with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer than I expected, not many but more than I expected. Cheers.

"More effective power consumption and charging capacity: Thanks to surface-active carbon additives – EFB+ version only." - https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-services/servicing-and-parts/spare-parts-and-oil/battery.html I missed that bit first time of looking, press the drop arrow on "The benefits of our EFB and EFB+ batteries at a glance:".

You were showing 12.3v when parked up so if it shows around that in the morning that's fine, you have to consider what's being used by the car when you are sitting in it parked up (0.2v- 0.3v?) and by the Carista running its checks, sometimes accuracy of testing equipment. Also you were showing 12.2v at new battery installation. You can leave the Carista plugged in to se live data and even drive with it but don't leave it plugged in like that for longer than necessary and not as a habit. Computes and their programming aren't always (never?) perfect and can have brain-farts for various reasons as we all know whilst it matters a lot less if the Carista get messed up it matters a lot more if the VW programing or car parts do. Have the following pdf. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

I think you will find that the original battery technology was entered incorrectly - other members have reported issues when mistakenly using 'AGM' as the setting - As @Peter120000 says, AGM battery should be entered as 'Fleece'

I just realized that the site doesn't let me insert HEIC files into the post so I'm writing the instructions with the images into this one: Remove the plastic cover underneath the module using the pry tool Use the pry tool again to separate the frame and the module to allow the module to pop out. You can gently use the unused buttons to pull the module out with. They might pop out a bit, but shouldn't break. Note that the red connector is on the left side of the module while the black is on the right. Connect the cable with the thicker middle part to the red connector, and the slimmer one to the black. The connectors look very similar, but there are little plastic keys on the connectors and they should line up with the appropriate connector. Connect the cable with the thicker middle part to the left side of the module, where the red connector used to sit, and the other slimmer cable to the other connector. Make sure the connections are secure. There is thin wire connecting the 2 cables together, make sure this is not damaged. Carefully slide the extended cables into their original slow and slide the module back into it's place and push until it clips in. Pop back the covering plastic underneath and test out the new Start-Stop disable functionality. By default the module should be set to Reverse mode and it should turn the start-stop system off immediately after starting the engine.

Honest to God, you've included a smily face but forgive me for not seeing the funny side of it. We can all reverse cars, nobody NEEDS a camera to reverse, but it does act as an aid to assist reversing. With all the best will in the world, you cannot possibly see everything around your car when reversing. Why not google 'blind spot' and then think about apologising to those, who by implication, you've accused of not being able to reverse their cars.

Well as I am disabled and reverse with door mirrors the camera helps as you can't see directly behind using door mirrors. Perhaps you are lucky and can turn you body and head to look back over your shoulder to reverse. Think before you type Crap

When are you going to grow up and become an adult

I couldn't agree more. Personally I much prefer the gentle and smooth approach these days, I have no interest in racing away from lights, etc etc, and I stick to the 70mph limit on motorways which make up a lot of my mileage. All of us can post impressive economy figures for the odd trip here and there, but what really counts (to me) are the long term 99:99 hours/minutes of driving time figures which indicated a far more realistic overall consumption figure. I have seen around 75mpg on some drives, but being realistic I average around the 65mpg (ish) figure long term.

I've done the 1000 to a tank with 20 mile range showing. I put a little over 70.5 litres in when I filled up. I think driven really carefully I might get between 1100 to 1200 miles on a tank, another reason why I chose a Superb.

Personally I started by working out what charger I wanted, then looked for installers in my area that installed that charger. You'll need to live with the features, functions and aesthetics of the charger for a long time after the installer has faded in your memory! Of particular interest might be whether you have or might in the future have solar panels that you want to do intelligent solar charging with them.

... and while you're on there download every file about your car (wiring diagrams, repair manual, parts information, etc.) onto your PC.

I would suggest you go and spend 7 euros at Skoda erwin and look up the part number yourself..... https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz