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I watched a video of that bloke the other day - God knows why it appeared on my recommended to watch YouTube video listing. How can anyone be that financially stupid? He's in no position to give advice to others, the advice he does give is crap. He then speaks of negative equity, decided to 'bite the bullet' and wants change his car to a 911, but load the negative equity for the Tycan on to the 911 ! That's hardly biting the bullet ! And he's surprised why nobody will entertain it. His moans apply to ANY car, it has nothing to do with EV's. But I digress, that's not why I'm adding to this thread: Dacia Spring from £14999 I reckon this will be an absolute game changer for EVs. It's only really suited to town work but I expect it to fly off the shelves. In fact, you could make an argument people will buy it in addition to their main car just for that purpose. The price of this EV will never plummet, in fact I'd go as far to say that there will be a premium to be made for those who take earlier delivery. I'd put money on demand outstripping supply.

So with me procrastinating over the seat and the foams needing some potential slicing, decided to look at the clock spring and the indicators: The idea was to swap them over so it's ready to go straight in. I've noticed that these clock springs have a useful 0 degree indicator: For the facelift one above, the window inside the clock spring has a white ribbon which aligns with the 0 degree marker to the left of it. For the pre facelift clock spring, it looks like a notch that is within the inner part of the clock spring: The white notch is to the right, with the arrow pointing at it on the upper part. It isn't there if its any number of revolutions out. The clock spring is attached with 3 screws, T15 bits: Then it's two electrical connectors, sorta chunky style ones at the bottom: Then one at the top, which has a few awkward latches: It will then come free: This is where it dawned on me that this was all a waste of time. The connectors aren't all compatible with one another, the left and right indicators having different number of pins, and the connectors locations on the clock springs themselves slightly different here and there. I've decided to give up on these indicators, as it doesn't seem worth the effort. Shame really, need to come up with another way to spruce up the existing ones. With that laid to bed, I decided to take pics of the stuff for servicing: The main bits for most of a 'C' service. Oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs, and the DSG filter. For reference, I use an A, B, A, C service schedule for all the guys I look after. It keeps things simple, and most of the time means overdoing things. Some cars will have an oil and filter change in between, but in general, it's annual. I'll be doing the C service for this car primarily to zero off the time line for this car, and because 8 years of age marries up to the C service perfectly. It'll also mean just a quick look and oil change next year. I don't have shares in Mann, but it does usually end up with me always using Mann stuff. The cabin filter above is apparently some fancy type, so cost a bit more than normal or activated charcoal ones. The above was all from Autodoc, and came to £104.36, a case of scraping a few pounds compared to EuroCarParts or GSF. Now, one disadvantage of the DSG gearbox is the sheer amount of expensive oil required: So I have 7l of the stuff, plus a litre of stuff for the Haldex differential: Again, I've found myself using Mannol stuff for the last 4-5 years and I haven't found any of the cars blowing up yet, so more than happy with using the same for the DSG and Haldex. I imagine the Haldex will end up being changed every 2 years (the B service) and 4 years appears to be the expectation for the DSG. It was £12.15 for the Haldex oil, and £48.86 for the DSG oil. Also some gubbins for the Haldex: First RacingLine mod! Even if it's just some replacement fill and drain bolts. They contain a bunch of washers which is probably the reason I went for those. The pic also has washers for the DSG drain bolt, and also a pump for the Haldex oil, just the usual pump for these situations (have a few in the garage for the manual gearboxes when needed). It was £4.55 for the washers, £6.69 for the pump and £29.99 for the RacingLine bolts. I forgot to take pictures of the Haldex o-rings as well. Specifically https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/haldex-other-small-parts/o-ring-seals-for-gen-5-haldex-pumps/ and https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/shop/haldex-other-small-parts/large-rear-o-ring-for-vw-audi-seat-and-skoda-n90443301/ which came to £10.14 with delivery. Here's a bag of nuts: This is for the modules under the seats, as I vacuumed one by accident over the previous weekend being too earnest. Usually take the opportunity to replace things with stainless when appropriate, such as this. £3.32 from eBay. Some random tools as well: Some picks, as I don't have any, and when I used to service the wife's SEAT Ibiza, I usually always had to get out some sort of screwdrive for the o-rings for the filters and whatnot. £6.95 from eBay. Another pick: This one for trim pieces, which seems to be mentioned quite a bit in the workshop manuals, £4.99, again from eBay. These also arrived today: New connector cover to replace the broken one, with one spare just in case. So quite a bit, and I'll probably miscalculate the total knowing my luck. I haven't included engine oil, brake fluid, or coolant, primarily because I have that stuff already. Maintenance: £1678.25 (+£183.38) Upgrades: £711.10 (+£29.99) Miscellaneous: £603.58 (+£18.63)

Hi people, after a Skoda hiatus since 2019 (but still VAG, apart from one), We have a Skoda coming back into our family. We should be collecting the wife's Scala 1.5 Monte Carlo Manual tomorrow, an ex demo car.

It is not 'We' it is England that can not generate or transmit enough. No storage capacity for the renewables. So get on with the Battery Storage, Pumped Hydro & charging and discharging from BEV,s. The Battery Storage in Scotland will need to increase by 6 fold. The Local / Scottish Grid needs to be started and not just spoken about. The big Pylons need built to transmit the Electricity to England and the Interconnectors. It is a case of the NATIONAL GRID making huge profits and talking about spending not so huge amounts to improve it without more and more money from the customers / tax payers and even the non-customer. PS The price that Customers are going to have to pay for the Electricity from the Local Battery Storage Facilities is to be sorted out now. It should certainly be less expensive than from the Grid, or the cost that the Westminster Government suggest that people in England near pylons can get the electricity for. Electricity generated far from where they are. There are objectors all over Scotland to these, and the pylons, sub-stations and wind turbines & solar farms. They need to wake up and not smell the coffee because no energy to their homes, or feel like those that can not afford what is plentiful but at rip off tariffs.

Snipped to stay on the point of the grid. The capacity of the grid to carry power is well within limits currently, so the pro electrification camp quite rightly say 'the grid can cope'. However, the anti-electrification camp will point out that at times there is very little margin for error in the amount of generating capacity available to power the grid (and it's all the fault of renewables). Both camps are right to an extent. As has been written and linked to many times, British electrical demand per person is much lower than 20 years ago and the grid has capacity to provide power. Electricity use has increased just 6% in the past 30 years, which is minor. (https://www.climatescorecard.org/2021/02/uks-electricity-sources-have-drastically-shifted-over-the-past-30-years/#:~:text=Solar power is equally growing,(TWh) in 30 years.) When the grid was built we had huge coal fired power stations close to the coal fields (Drax / Eggborough / Ferrybridge complex as an example being next to south yorkshire coalfield) and big nuclear plants built in the 50s/60s, so had the pylons and substations in place for this. Most of the coal-fired power stations are now closed and nuclear is going but the grid still goes to those sites and these places are still needed for routing and distribution. The power to replace these huge power stations is now pretty scattered as wind farms in the middle of nowhere and getting this lot connected is the problem, as generally the new electricity generating capacity is not near one of the old power stations with a big grid connection. There are no pylons in the middle of nowhere as there was no need to take power there. Even big offshore installations which bring all the power ashore in a single place still struggle to get connected. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-65500339 So while the grid can cope, maybe we cannot generate enough leccy when needed. Its not just 'the grid'.......

SOLD. I appreciate this isn't classic Brisky fodder, but maybe as a second/weekend car! That's where I got the bug when I bought my first MX-5 in 2015, alongside a Yeti 😉 Make & Model: 2009 59-plate NC2 / Mk3.5 2.0 SE PRHT, upgraded. Colour: Silver, Aluminium Metallic (Mazda paint code 38P) Mileage: 88k, will rise slightly with use Price: £6450 Description: A well loved Owners Club example, with one previous owner now up for sale due to an unexpected opportunity to try another roadster. Registered September 2009, Aluminium Metallic silver (paint code 38P), registered new by Wrights Mazda Norwich. Original bill of sale included and a comprehensive history file. 2 keys and MoT until September 2024 with no advisories. 88k miles covered and in very good condition overall, with some marks and stone chips in line with age and mileage. Spec includes climate control and cruise control. Most importantly, car has been cleaned, treated and protected on the underside at a cost of £1000. Carried out by Anaid Vaid who is well regarded in MX-5 circles. Receipt included. Car has been carefully upgraded in my ownership, with Tein FlexZ coilovers fitted in March 2023. Original suspension can be included if desired. Specific custom ‘fast road’ alignment by TunedUK, settings sheet included. Full service carried out in the same month, including sparkplugs, gearbox and differential oils. Pipercross panel filter installed. IL Motorsports decat manifold fitted in November 2023 by Performance Link. Fab9 Versatuner map then uploaded, giving circa 185bhp and a better torque curve. No engine light as a result and the secondary cat still in place. Original manifold included, if desired. Sony XAV-AX3005DB headunit fitted with Apple Carplay, Android Auto, Bluetooth and USB connectivity, retaining use of steering wheel controls. Original stereo also included. Gearstick and handbrake gaiters upgraded to black alcantara with contrasting silver stitching. The car will be supplied with its original Mazda 16" alloys, recently refurbished in silver, fitted with Goodyear tyres. 17" Proline UX100 wheels in black with recent Kumho PS71 tyres can be supplied or fitted in addition, by separate negotiation. The car has been run exclusively on Tesco Momentum 99 and only hand washed in my ownership. Registration is currently J555 HJW if you want to check MoT history etc. Will return to AU59 ZZC before sale, with the original dealer plates fitted. If you’re in the market for an example with considered and well-researched modifications that you were thinking of doing yourself, then this car could be the one for you. Condition: Used, very good condition Collection: Yes. Cheshire, CW8 Pictures:

Hi everyone - just taken delivery of a new Superb Hatchback 2 litre TSI DSG 2wheel drive standard suspension from a Skoda dealer. Front shock absorber transport blocks not removed prior to collection. This came to light as I experienced a number of instances when travelling on the open road even a minor road imperfection generated a huge thump through the whole car. Sensing that something was not right I researched BRISKODA and found a possible cause relating to the transport blocks on the front shock absorbers not having been removed as part of the PDI exercise. Contacted the dealer and they confirmed this might well be the cause I would need to have the car booked in to my local Skoda dealer to have this checked over. I have asked to see a copy of the PDI inspection report as I need the assurance that the PDI was carried out and that there are no other outstanding matters which need attention. In the meantime, I checked for the transport blocks myself and found the buffers still in place. I have now removed these (2 buffers each side) and the car in transformed. Thanks guys for the heads up. It's simply crazy why this issue is still coming up year after year after year!

Digging up a comment I made 6+yrs ago I consider trolling.....or stalking!... Its not like my comment was a detailed mechanical how-to guide & you're querying how I did something as you're following the guide & having problems... My view of EVs hasn't changed...I won't be getting one any time soon...my 9yr old MK7 Golf does very well for me!

I appear to have forgotten to make a post, but this is still here. Lying about as the second car as the Vectra is picking up most of my mileage as the 'family' car. Purchased 6th of March 2021. Which means I've had it three years now. 89k miles now, and plodding along slowly (very slowly) but surely.

LARGE Mid Sized CROSSOVER.

That is like a bleeding Range Rover for size and that screen, erm, good luck trying to operate it with your left hand and with it being moveable, while it might be good to remove glare from the sun and lights etc off the screen, it will also end up as not, moving while trying to use it. Give us some good old-fashioned knobs and switches, easier to locate and operate without taking your attention of the road.

@Rooted I think a lot of the problems with the generation of power in England stems from the NIMBYs who want the power and services but do not want their view etc spoilt so they are more than happy to site power stations in Scotland out of their sight, and then they object to the pylons/underground cable works etc to transport that power to their doors. You can't make an omelette without breaking an egg.🙄

Your Octavia 1,2 TSI from 2015 has a timing belt. The engine is part of the Volkswagen EA211 family and is a complete redesign after the previous generation which had (problematic) chains.

Car ordered for delivery in June. SKODA SUPERB ESTATE SEL 1.5 TSI mild hybrid ICE TEA YELLOW METALLIC SUITE COGNAC PANORAMIC SUNROOF ELECTRIC TOW BAR WITH ADAPTOR DYNAMIC CHASSIS CONTROL PLUS VARIABLE BOOT FLOOR WINTER PACKAGE 18" steel space saving spare wheel

That's awesome, you shouldn't see degradation because it would all be in the buffers. Yes, I seem to recall they were Model S 75D that are actually software limited 90 packs. Can even pay for an unlock. Self-discharge is usually not an issue for Li-on batteries. I have an Android smart phone in the Leaf for reading Leafspy, I charge that up to 60%, turn it back on a few weeks later still 60%. I get really old NiCd are a problem, every time I want to use my many-years old drill, it needs to be charged. "Vampire drain" is a thing for Teslas and Corsa it seems, but that is the in-car computer using the battery to do stuff. I think the thing to watch out for as cells age is internal resistance. This shouldn't affect cells in open circuit. This will affect maximum charging speed, in theory will generate more heat. Should also affect max discharge (acceleration). Though I don't believe slow AC charging will take more energy, because Tesla in-vehicle service mode uses AC charging to measure degradation. (dumps remaining as heat, charge 0 to 100% measure charged energy). At 7.5p/kWh and solar, efficiency isn't top of my list of concerns. In fact, using V2H keeps electronics in the Leaf awake, that uses around 200w by my calculation. It's very far from ideal and quite wasteful compared to a proper home battery solution. But as you say, free solar. Also keeps 12v health by floating it at 12.8v all the time. I'm sure future cars will improve with more and more V2G/V2H adoption.

And regarding quoting myself you're right. It was my mistake,I wanted to quote DubDean for his comment Great mounts to see if he has any experience with them. Corrected. Tnx👍🙂

Just under 80% from a nearly 10 year old leaf is promising. Very early battery tech, air cooled, packs known to get a bit warm under heavy load and fast charging, small batteries that get cycled more. It suggests more modern cars will be at least 80%, probably more like 90%+ at 10 years.

Please keep it cordial. That goes to everyone.

See that and raise the time one newspaper appeared with a masthead reading "The Grauniad".

I'll try and catch up tomorrow but FWIW I've never payed full price for a brand new car as I've never bought one but I always buy my cars outright from day one with cash money . HPs always been a scam as far as I can tell. Nowt for nowt usually though there may be exceptions I'm unaware of though HP may suit some people and there are different and sometimes good deals to be had which may suit some people.

There is a heater in the adblu tank, with a control unit. On a 4X4 version, they locate the unit under the offside rear wheel arch! Sounds a good idea! Not when water gets into it! My battery flattened at 3-01 am due to the shorting which occurred. Brilliant technician, Noel, (AA VWG recovery service) detected it, ordered a new one, (are you ready?) £300 retail. Fitted in about 20 minutes, but then testing, resetting elecronic facilities & recharging battery etc. VW used to have a reputaion for good design & engineering. Glad I took out an "All-in" service/warranty.

My Isle of Skye rough plan done. Chargepoint scotland RFID card arrived. No problem If able to charge overnight staying somewhere near Portree. Total about 450 miles driving away from Fort William superchargers. So need under 200 miles of range added whilst on the isle. London – Glasglow Glasglow – (32mi) Luss village – (58mi) Glencoe valley – (35mi) Glenfinnan viaduct – (17mi) Fort William (6 Tesla superchargers) <~150 miles total> Fort William – (96mi) A87 Highland Cows viewpoint – (108mi) Portree (2 CPS charging) <~204 miles to Portree> Portree – (7mi) Old Man of Storr – (8mi) Kilt Rock – (13mi) Fairy Glen (1 CPS charging at Uig Pier) – (17mi) Portree <~45 miles total> Portree – (34mi) Dunvegan Castle (1 CPS charging at Dunvegan) – (12mi) Neist Point Lighthouse – (33mi) Portree <~80 miles total> Portree – (43mi) Eilean Donan Castle – (65mi) Fort William (6 Tesla superchargers) – (100mi) Stirling <~210 miles total> Stirling – (37mi) Edinburgh Edinburgh - London Now finding accommodation on the isle.....

^^^ Guff, it is the subject of the thread @fabdavrav and i remember posts, and the ones you drag up or use to. ,

Thank you. I will give that a try.

Try Flapaerobics.

Hi @Liam1809, Feel free to message me if you'd like any more details on what I've had done, and the experience I've had. My car is still at DT, as they've hit issues with the new turbo, so I don't yet know what the end result will be like. Watch this space! 👀 Keith

Scan the HVAC module for stored faults. Don't be too surprised if there's a code related to V68 heater flap motor.

Hi @Wardy Nice car - now if that had been a MR2 I might have been tempted 😁

This doesn't work for the Octavia, probably because the golf only had four dive modes, while the octy had five. I can change the values in the interior lights general settings, but it just does random things. None of the mapping_fpa_profilexx settings seem to relate to the drive modes.

Getting ready for tomorrows scheduled tuning Parts are ready, missing picture od input shaft brace. Will add later ARP are 25mm long from Hammer, because 19mm ones are to short. Been running on 10.9 25x1.0 ones tll now,now time for ARPs

Adventure car with the need for gloves on sometimes when you are on adventures where the Mobile Phone is not part of the Adventure to turn on the car or to open the doors for those that get back to the car first. Adventures where actual adventurers usually need to hide a key near the car just incase. That is incase the driver is dead on a hillside, fell in a crevice. The first report of a smashed in locked centre screen to get to the valuables then each after that will sort the insurance cost of these Ford Explorers. Has Ford actually ever improved Vehicle Security since the 1970,s?

Well spotted. It is indeed an MK II. In some ways, I feel better knowing it was one of the last of that generation. I'll have to some more digging on this generation. Good to know it handled those long trips well. I've found a 2016 MK III L&K diesel just like yours on AutoTrader as well; albeit many more miles on it. Could be a good option. This is really helpful thank you. I noticed that MOT fail in January over the engine MIL. Not sure what to make of that. Aside from that, the MOT is pretty clean. In any case, I'll probably book a ClickMechanic inspection before pulling the trigger.

it's one piece.

No there are two different codes. Please see No7 and No(7). One is for the left and the other is for the right side

I’ve updated the head post to remove new from the services.

As above it's an interrupted regen. The fan is it cooling down. Some people think it's the regen continuing but that's not correct. It must complete the regen to function correctly.

Radio silence still on Brian Morrison / MG EV driver in Scotland where the reports were 'The car would not go below 15 mph to the Car took over and drove at 30 mph. Neither the Police van or the MG being damaged when he was brought to a halt by driving into that.

I have the Canton upgrade in my Karoq, it was one of my 'must haves'. As you will read on here some do not rate it at all however you have to remember it is a £800 upgrade so a relatively minor upgrade in Hi-Fi terms. It is not a £3500 Burmester upgrade you can get on a Porsche. What you get is extra speakers, most obviously the centre speaker in the dash, replacing the storage box, a subwoofer in the boot which sits on the space saver spare wheel (so you get a spare wheel) and an amp under the front passenger. To my ears it is better than the standard system, much better than my previous Yeti. Really it depends on how you like to listen to your music, and, as with every Hi Fi, it is only as strong as it's weakness link. A low level source, e.g. poor quality mp3s will sound awful even on the finest system. It took me a few weeks of fiddling with the settings to get the set up right for my taste and now it sounds great. A nice sounding thumping bass (not overdriven and booming) and a nice wide soundstage. The amp makes it more than loud enough for my ears and I have never wanted more volume. In my Yeti I maxed it out on a few albums and still wanted a bit more 'oomfph'. If you can try and listen to one car with Canton and one without, and trust your ears.

@Graham Butcher That is not a 'Claim' it is rubbish spouted from journalists that editors allow to be published. It used to be tomorrows wrapping for fish. Now online just as much inaccuracy and even the Date of articles are not to be beleived.

Who 'CLAIMED' or wrote RAMMED? Which publication or was that a statement from the Police?

From £65k to £77k before options... That's not in any way cheap compared to a Kodiaq which starts at £35k ish for similar space. Thats a price difference of £30k!! That buys an awful lot of fuel...

The ‘crunch’ noise you heard would be the ABS pump applying full pressure to the brakes very quickly as the manoeuvre braking thought you were about to collide with something

The forum rules/guidelines state no content should promote illegal activity or infringe on the legal rights of others. Helping folk with cloned/pirated interfaces probably goes against that statement so I tend to leave well alone

It's mot time again. Just a quick wash down and fingers crossed it passes.

So, got cracking on with this G11 to G13 conversion. Usual disclaimers: Please don't try this at home unless you're sure it'll be ok, I can't be held responsible for others! So the first order of business was to take the 128GB SD Card I used for the previous update and gave it a quick format with Rufus, followed by copying over the G13 AIO firmware. The contents contains instructions to perform the G11 to G13 conversion, so I followed them to the letter, changing properties on the metainfo2 file from: To: So a couple of flags to disable version checking and what "train" the update supports. I note that for the Skoda ones, it has a wildcard MHI_ER_SKG11_* so I suppose anyone with a bit more bravery could try it with any version of the G11 "train", but I wouldn't recommend that at all. It also mentions in the website guide to rename the _Swdlautorun.txt file to remove the underscore prefix, which should then mean the card insertion is enough to kick start the update process. So a few deep breaths... But before that, made sure the battery charger is in place and keeping the battery topped up (it was left on overnight, so I think it'll be good). Then some preparatory stuff. Firstly, for this particular display, remove the trim around the display: I used fingers at first to get some purchase then a standard trim removal tool to slide around the rest, and it pops out: This reveals the slots for the insertion of the keys, so inserting the keys and with a bit of wiggling in my case, it should come free: I left the display hanging slightly, so that once the update reboots and then expects the newer screen, I can then swap them over with just the two cables to change. I few more deep breaths, and the SD card is now inserted into the head unit, with the display immediately detecting the card and showing the same messages as yesterday with the normal firmware update procedure: These photos are almost the same as yesterday: However, once it rebooted, the display remained black, but I could hear what presumably was the head unit fan (or at least some fan around the glovebox), so decided this was the moment that the head unit was now only going to work with the new display. So pull the old display out enough to get my fingers onto the connectors, and luckily they all came out without much drama. Inserting the connectors into the new display then revealed: Did a little first bump as the display is on and working! I then got a warning message, one which the guide explicitly mentions: It stresses to just press skip, as cancelling could be a disaster! So once skipped, it pretty much finished: Checking the version by holding down the home button: Success! It took pretty much the same time as yesterdays firmware update, so around 35-40 minutes. Next step is to reinstall the maps, which I've decided to do with the SD card reformatted again, but this time to exFAT just to feed my curiosity. The install process is then the same as a standard firmware update, going via the service menu to search for updates: The install for this took longer primarily because of the huge size of the maps I presume. Took the opportunity to give the car a quick once over with a vacuum. It will need a few more goes by the looks of it, but it is what it is. After a few more restarts: Maps are on. I also added POIs via another update, this time, via a microSD card with an adapter. This also worked, so the general advice of using a good normal sized SD card is more a wise precaution, if for whatever reason you don't want to spend the £8 or so for one. Maintenance: £324.88 Upgrades: £315.00 Miscellaneous: £584.95

Yarrrr thar do be a pass, matey. Handbrake was also knackered, so got new cables put on as they'd stretched something awful. Not as expensive as last year but not cheap. Oh well. Next month I'm looking at getting these doors done so the rear electric windows are finished.

I've just checked, but sadly no recalls have been issued on this model. I have submitted a detailed report to DVSA requesting a health and safety recall, so I shall await their response 🤔