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So little bit of a side line now... and something I am 99.9% hasnt been done before... Ventilated Sportline Seats So this was an all new project and going in blind! So a bit of theory behind it first: On the superb, all seat frames are near enough the same, then the difference between the leather and sportline seats is the foam insides and the headrest. There are no ventilated parts for the sportline and the ones built into the leather seat foam are far from the right shape, so it meant starting from scratch. Also something to note - the fans suck air through the seat, not blow air onto you. The parts that were needed for this: 4x Fans Wiring Plugs Terminals Diffuser sheet Isolator sheet Fan mounting Now the fans, wiring and terminals are easy to source but the sheets and mountings are actually built into the seat foam and cant be purchased separately. I then found a company that sold me all 4 diffuser and isolator sheets and some mountings that would work. Now we are in business! There are 2 fans per seat, and they are wired exactly the same (almost) and controlled by LIN. Each seat gets a power on pin 1, a LIN on pin 3 and a ground on pin 2. Pins 4-6 are then grounded differently depending on the fans position and this is how the LIN knows what each seat fan is doing and where it is. Thats the wiring out of the way, next the physical mounting of everything: So this is a cross section of how it currently looks: Yellow is the solid seat foam Red is the heated seat element Black is the seat fabric itself. And this is how it ended up looking: Yellow is the seat foam which now has holes going through it completely, indicated by the brown lines Red is the heated seat element which is porous so needed no modification Black is the seat fabric, again it was porous and luckily no modification needed. Blue is the diffuser sheet - which is a semi rigid sheet that is full of holes allowing the air to distribute fully across all the holes, even with a persons weight pushing on them. Green is the isolator sheet - this is what seals the area to allow the only air being sucked it to be from the front of the seat, via the holes in the foam. Brown circle is the fan. And now some photos of it all - the parts and strip down first: A rough marking of the fan location and the foam being cut The seat base to show the 2 circle holes where the fan could possibly mount The fan, mounting, diffuser sheet and isolator sheet Decided on mounting the fan is the forward seat base hole A torch behind the fabric to show the holes are require permiable, so air wont have an issue. Next is the actual building of it all: Seat back wired up and fully ready to refit, fan installed Seat base foam cut, very roughly before sanding it flat to give a better finish Diffuser mat laid in the cut out All the holes, and the foam pieces ready to fit back on top at the end to maintain its shape Diffuser mat glued in place and trimmed to fit perfectly. A sportline seat base - the head rest is what gives it its shape, very odd design Back of the sportline foam before i began cutting The cut out for the diffuser foam. The holes - drilling these is pointless - i heated up a piece of rebar and melted the holes through - a drill just pushes the foam out the way. Diffuser, isolator and fan mount fitted. And some photos of the controls now fully working! And all of that, took 2 whole days for a single seat! Next is the drivers seat! It did get me thinking though.... the 4B module often refered to as the headlight control module, is actually a multi function control module and it has a lot of other odd options too - almost like extra pins for the BCM. But anyway, it has functions on there for rear seat ventilation too... just a thought. But that would mean a completely custom rear temperature control panel, intercept and inject LIN and canbus signals through my own controller... but yeah, just a thought.

The buttons on Gandalf's main key fob were getting "lethargic" after almost 7 yrs of service. So I decided to fix it by transplanting the buttons from my unused 3rd key fob. The button presses r much better now. I decided to make a video and share it for anyone that may need to "repair" their key fob. The same process applies to the Kodiaq MK2 and Passat B8 key fobs, with KESSY.

Looks great @Prezafab

@Graham Butcher Really not guff. A guy came up to me and asked if it was the NEW Electric MINI and how far does it go. I told him it was not the NEW one not yet out and about 110 miles but more in this weather. Then he went on about the MacMaster. I told him b0llocks to the MacMaster.

Just seen a GWM Ora and I thought to myself that Kia missed a trick with not grabbing that name

Just to add to this, my towbar stuck again, the dealer provided me with the part number for VAG's 'special grease', it is G052172A1. It's called Krytox and is very expensive, especially given the bottle is only 30ml. It seems to be aimed more at convertible roof and sunroof mechanism squeaks than tow bars, but it is the stuff listed on the tow bar TPI. I used a tube of silicone grease instead. On my back, with the tow ball released it's pretty clear where the grease needs to go. swinging the tow ball up and down several times whilst working the grease into the joint seems to have done the trick.

Let stop both BS, Burning Stuff and Bull ****.. In other good news it has been said that TESLA Berlin is starting to make RHD model Ys. Yippy, should now be soon a grand or two off the RRP !! If TESLA would sell Model Ys Standard Range for less than £40k that would be great. Still prefer Model 3 Highland looks but nice to have choice especially one might be thinking about carrying extended family and their kit ie prams etc.

Diesel engined vehicles are being singled out as they are the worst polluters, particularly for NOX and PMs. the regulation even allow diesels to emit up to 80 milligrams of NOX rather than 60 for petrol as they know diesel struggle even to get below this level. The etech version of my Arkana is 6 milligrams, my Arkana is an embarrassing 22 mg/km. Average, still available diesel cars are about 40 mg/km and this is with Ad Blue systems. It is logical diesel are continually under scrutiny and the PMs situation is also bad too. The UK emission "standards" are at levels twice the WHO have set so just because Uk say UK air quality is moderate etc is against its own poor standard. EV owners tend to be on the intelligent side I have found but you of course get some idiots, we have seen a few on the Youtube channel, and getting about what one expects in terms of energy per mile, based against WLTP, which is still a test condition and at ambient temperatures is understood by anyone with at least half a functioning brain. I have always seen the Renault range, both actual and estimated by the car, as reasonable a gainst what it was advertised, informed on the WLTP test ie 238 miles. If it is cold, windy, rainy then simple slow down a few mph, makes little difference to the journey time and one will still get over 200 miles even in adverse conditions. Some of the big Audis only get about 2.5 miles per kWh as the are big, heavy, block shaped, do not have the best motors etc so hardly surprising compare poorly to TESLAs and even Renaults and Nissans. EV drivers enjoy the cheap running costs and if they have to do a longish journey the plan and use a stop with some of the tens of thousands of chargers in the UK and these are getting cheaper as TESLA roll out the V4 versions.

Oh Dear - senility is more advanced than I thought... On my right-hand-drive Fabia Mk4, the OBD port is directly below the FRONT of the little dashboard storage-box on the driver's side of the cabin.. These photos from below should make the port's location clear (Incidentally, no help in the Owner's Manual about this.)

@leolito after refuel it will show - - after ~10 liters burned it will start by 5, then 10, 15, . . . where value has been displayed depends on virtual cockpit mode, it will be one in between of Driving Info list, Speed; Traffic Sign; Consumption; etc.

Oh sweet irony.

Hi All well it wasn’t the battery it was actually as was above the front right hand speed sensor and the wheel bearing…. The timing marks had been scrapped away so the garage replaced the timing sensor and the wheel bearing cleared all error codes and all is now fine with it.. thanks for all your support and suggestions very weird that a speed sensor can cause so many unrelated error codes… but that’s modern tech for you….

Greetings Does anyone have any tips and tricks to make a tidy job of re-sticking the fabric outer layer to the headlining? Mine is delaminating over about two-thirds of the length of the car.

A few from this evenings walk............

A wabbit

£10.99 from eBay, from China ! Bought another set now as much cheaper than vinyl wrapping and they stay stuck and wash well. The only slight negative is the bottom corners come to a sharp point which are easy to catch with a sponge. Solution is to snip the corners off with scissors before fitting.

Unlike petrol to diesel, this change isn't a minor iteration on burning stuff. EV (green hydrogen FCEV or BEV) are a complete step change, completely centralised pollution, making it easier to clean up for the government. No more waiting 15 years for the car to be off the road. The only way BEV is not the golden ticket is when private transportation is being phased out. May not be in my lifetime but I think it's definitely a "when", not "if". I've been playing a little game called "Beecarbonize" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beecarbonize The best approach has always been to remove 20th centry industry and go all in on renewable as quickly as possible. EV is part of the renewable solution. For example, today had been very sunny, my solar PV generated 12.6 kWh, 5.8 kWh went into batteries. When Leaf was reaching high SoC, I set the MY to charge, 2.3 kWh during most sunny period. The evening click&collect was 100% renewable, also current house usage is 100% renewable without needing to manufacture a new battery to achieve it. Is this in worst weather or lifetime average? My old Octavia is said to be 62 mpg: https://www.parkers.co.uk/skoda/octavia/hatchback-2013/20-tdi-cr-elegance-5d-dsg/specs/ I get 53.4 mpg over my whole ownership, tracked by fuelly: https://www.fuelly.com/car/skoda/octavia/2013/wuyanxu/623258 But definitely cannot hit 50 mpg during winter. 20% deficiency. We've seen MY LR efficiency between 223-272 Wh/mi. https://ev-database.org/uk/car/1619/Tesla-Model-Y-Long-Range-Dual-Motor My lifetime efficiency in the MYLR over 14k miles is 272 Wh/mi according to the car's lifetime trip meter that I've never reset. End of the day, I've never expected to get more than 600 miles out of Octavia, despite spec claims 682 miles. Similarly, I wouldn't fault my current MY LR if it fails to reach 330 miles claimed range. But the tech inside and vertical integration with superchargers (and ability to charge at home) makes it MUCH easier to utilise the full range if needed.

The two different front brake disc sizes are shown in the Skoda Kamiq parts catalogue. However, most owners aren't experts in this sort of thing so will often just rely on the seller. If the seller doesn't have the car's VIN number, he won't be able to check for the correct parts because simply knowing the car's model, etc. isn't enough information to check against the VAG database which shows the parts that were fitted in the factory to each individual car. If the seller doesn't have a suitable computer system and hasn't paid for a suitable subscription service then again he won't be able to check that the parts he is selling are correct for an individual car. Skoda Kamiq parts catalogue https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/KAM/584/6

Just like to say 'thanks' to everyone who has posted hints and tips. I've just fitted front and rear mudflaps. Both backs only took 30 minutes, I lubricated the centre pin of the expanding rivet with silicon grease it makes all the difference. I did remove the front wheels just to give my self room to drill the holes, as I didn't want to risk the drill wandering of course. I slid a plastic trim removal tool in behind the upper rivet hole to brace the wheelarch liner when pushing the rivet centre pin in. I concur with comment that 'the mudflaps really suit the Karoq' .

I send you a personal message, thanks

Hi all, 23 plate vRS Diesel on 13k miles Started car today and got Error- Drive System. Visit workshop. Also stop/start unavailable. Down on power (limp mode) Went to dealer who says it *could* be water in fuel/contaminated fuel but also mentioned something about TPI? Filled up to brim on way home- errors still present. Have only ever used the same reputable fuel retailer since I've owned the car and always fill at same petrol station. Anyone able to advise on this TPI?

All explained, thank you

Fuglier than a fugly thing in a place full of fugly things

@ Greggs / Starbucks Westhill Aberdeen. ESB 6 X 300 kW Dual Charger. 12 plugs. 74 pence a kWh. @ McDonalds, meters away, Ionity 12 350 kW chargers, 71 pence a kWh. @ Tesco PodPoint, Rapid 62 pence a kWh.

Yes it offers the 2. The usb stick only does AA. It has an extension though to have it not directly plugged in the socket

Dunno, and dunno. Where did you order these items? Your discs should match genuine part number 2Q0 615 301H, to suit PR codes 1ZE, 1ZS. Pads are 2Q0 698 151Q.

AliExpress is a bit of a lottery when it comes to accurate descriptions and quality. Caveat emptor.

The affected area was hanging off already so he masked off around it, gave the back of the lining a light spray and stuck it back up. He did comment that it is very easy to saturate the material leading to bleedthrough, although I think that bit of knowledge came via his work. I'll have to ask the SIL which brand of spray he used. IIRC it was a 'trade' brand rather than a retail one.

I used to granny charge my PHEV. Never caused me any issues but I was never really comfortable with it . We got a tethered Zappi installed which I think is an excellent charger and saves getting the cables out the boot - it's mainly for my wife's EV but is great for the Octavia. I've been using a Garmin 57 dash cam connected to the port behind the mirror which I think is a decent camera.

I admit I could have done similar, but I wanted the more premium feeling metal key, the original was in poor shape. I'm surprised that they are supplied with one metal and 2 plastic keys.

@leolito on my previous Mk3 i have done this mod The throttle response 44 - Steering Assist Security access: 19249 Adaptations: channel: 'Driving profile switchover' change from 'Incremental: controlled over time' to 'Direct: controlled over threshold value' but i skipped it on my current Mk3.FL, me similarly as several colleagues noticed, it works more like a placebo, touchable difference can be get just by moving back DSG lever, fasted way to switch D <-> S

Not so weird when you think about it, most or all of the errors displayed in your case have a vehicle speed component related to them - I.e. stop-start reengages only after the vehicle has moved a certain distance and speed since the last stop, TPMS and ABS/ESC are looking at wheel rotation rate, etc.

That is true of any vehicle that never moves a wheel. It would help if you were to specify what wheel and tyre size you have and what was the homologated size or factory fitment.

Tell us the dimensions of your golf bag ... and someone will measure their boot.

IIRC from the original broadcast, heating was used, but AC was not as the compressor robs engine power regardless of whether the AC is actually cooling or not, it serves another purpose of dehumidifying the air.

OBD, not USB, but owners manual might be worth a look. "Diagnostic socket" would probably be its description.

Sorry for you about this bad dealer experience. But one bad dealer and technician team doesn’t make ALL Skoda dealers bad, hopefully!

Just trying to be helpful and prevent folk going off at a tangent with OTT reactions all the time.

Good point about the built in satnav. I only picked the car up on Saturday and I've used Waze for every trip. From limited experience, what it seems to do on that display between the dials is to take whatever the next manoeuvre is that the satnav is saying, and mirror it directly in front of the driver. So, for example, if Waze is telling me I've got a left-hand turn coming up in 15 miles on the big infotainment screen, it will also have a left signal with 15 miles mirrored in front of me. That weird 180° roundabout symbol just appears whenever Waze is telling me there's any sort of roundabout coming up. Actually! The penny has just dropped! I've just realised that the symbol which Waze displays on the phone and main infotainment screen for a roundabout is a swirling circular pattern with a number inside the circle. The number represents which exit you need to take, off the roundabout. So, obviously, Waze is sending it's instruction to the car computer and the car is interpreting the swirl with a number in it as a full trip round the roundabout (or something) every time, regardless of the number in the middle. The solution to this would be to see if I can change an option in Waze to display roundabouts in a different manner. I'll have a look when I'm back in the car, tomorrow, but I think I'm on the right track that it's simply an interpretation error between the two different softwares. Thanks for the comments.

Thanks for the recommendation - Ill have a look at it. Bidirectional tools make diagnostics easy because you can actuate many components - so you can verify communication pathways and or voltage drops/relay function along the actuation wiring.

Yes but you can’t buy them on their own https://www.amazon.co.uk/Skoda-Genuine-Alloy-Covers-Locking/dp/B08PL6HVHD/ref=asc_df_B08PL6HVHD/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=500890667741&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2143506665368710700&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045795&hvtargid=pla-1276197924917&psc=1&mcid=351b6f41c156336ca8927618564ff01d by the way they may or may not fit, just random quick search to show you

A few from last week

Don't forget its in the manufacturers interest to get engines to meet the latest emissions requirements by reducing friction and drag, not to allow the engine to last forever. This is the reason we now have variable oil pressure systems for low engine speeds and loads and drive belts that run in oil instead of a tried and tested chain! Not to be pescimistic or anything 😁

@AmolK Hello, you have to do the activation at the seller. I can only send you an update on 0369T. I would have to have your unit with me to put 0480 there.

My apple carplay is disabled in my Octavia mklll and it said I had to contact the dealership to get an activation key. I think you can’t solve this with a software update and you need a seperate activation ‘key’

If I can add a few more points 1) Take a wheel off, measure the disc diameter and look at the pad shape. Often there are a few variants of brakes for a vehicle. Looking at the ped specs you can confirm diameter match and recognise the pad shape and any side ears flanges on the pads. 2) Front Pads you just need to push the piston back, but the rears you need to wind clockwise as they get pushed back. You need a tool for this. I have a cheap set that I've used on many vehicles e.g. https://amzn.eu/d/b0HdhL8 3) Push the caliper piston back and fluid will rise and probably Overflow from the master cylinder reservoir. So you take off the reservoir lid, watch the level and suck out with a syringe some to stop overflow. 4) Buy a little tube of brake grease. Then when you've opened the caliper and cleaned it (wire brush) you smear a little on the sliding part, obviously not the disc/pad surfaces. Some calipers you even replace other hardware. 4) you need a 7mm Allenkey socket, not always in socket sets 5) a torque wrench is useful to know you tightened back correctly 6) have some new brake fluid just top back up the reservoir once all done and pedal pressed to seat the new pads. Is there nobody you know that has done this who can help you ? It's really not hard but if you've never done it before then it's helps to have a knowing friend. If you lived near me I'd help you for example. At the very least watch some YouTube videos and digest what they're doing Ideally one on your vehicle and caliper type

On the Superb MK3, a 15" rim won't clear the front or rear brake calipers. This is because the smallest brake discs that the Superb MK3 uses is 312x25mm front and 300x12mm rear. Skoda do supply a 205/55R16 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1 spare wheel from an Octavia MK3 for the Superb MK3. However, this is clearly an economy measure and not a very good choice for owners who are a little more discerning than Skoda. Octavia MK3 205/55R16 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1 spare wheel https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/rezervni-kolo-16-neplnohodnotne/p/5E0601011J As you can see in the chart below, the 205/55R16 is a whopping 4.9% smaller than 215/60R16. Outside diameter of tyre 215/60R16 664.4mm 205/55R16 631.9mm (4.9% smaller outside diameter than 215/60R16)

Definitely not! You risk some major issues doing this. Spark plugs have mostly done away with the crush washer and instead use a conical seat now. Torque settings can be as low as 10Nm on some cars now and the top end of the scale is 30Nm or near enough. Doing a half turn or 2/3 of a turn can completely overtighten them. Heads are getting even thinner now and I wouldnt want to be the one that pulls the plug out the head. The second thing is, the spark gap is positioned on newer engines with millimeter precision to create the best burn with direct injection engines so over or under torquing will place it in the non optimal place (difference will be negligible i know) The last thing I wanted to add is, had a new Volvo XC90 in the workshop that was serviced and the tech torqued all his plugs on all makes and models to 35Nm, the porcelain broke off the end of the plug as it stretched it too far and destroyed the engine. Torque setting should of been only 20 or so. That small difference cost a whole lot of cash. Just my input that telling someone to just give it a good nip could cause massive issues and them issues wouldnt come back to you, it would be the poor forum user that has possibly caused massive issues by not following precision advice for that specific car/model/engine.