Leaderboard

Forget the warranty. It is not your problem and all the hoops and excess and limits applied and T&Cs - it may amount to nothing. The selling dealer is on the hook for first 6 months without question to repair it PROPERLY. If they can't repair it properly it will be a refund. If you had of raised in the first 28 days you could have gone straight to refund. I say again, do not engage with the insured warranty process it will only likely distract and end in little or no satisfaction. You are under no obligation to claim on their insured warranty.

You’re also missing a lot of heat protection around those sensors. Should look like the attached

Dear pab567, Breezy_Pete, nta16 Many thanks for your offer of help. The garage has now phoned and the repair is quite cheap so I won't be replacing after all. I must say I can't believe the hostility on show when a novice like me asks a simple question on here. Sounds like you have a bit of a big boys club going on with this forum or at least some members need educating on politeness. God help you if one of those women type people tries to join in!

We've had two 1.5 Karoq DSGs now, one a 2020 model & the current 2024. The 2020 always felt smooth once you get to 3rd or 4th, at lower speeds it sometimes didn't want to change so it would start screaming, we never had any big problems, the only annoying thing was the start/stop system picked and chose when to work. You could drive for a whole day & it starts working at the end of the trip, or it'll work when you don't want it to like at a busy roundabout then not work for the rest of the trip. I did feel the 1.5 wasn't powerful enough for the Karoq The 2024 so far has been lovely, it seems like an upgrade engine wise but I'm not technically sound so couldn't tell you what's different. It's very good, start/stop works all the time. Averaged 38mpg over the 3000 miles, which is mostly a 4 mile work commute every other day. But I've done four 120 mile journeys in it & the best it returned was 54mpg at 70mph cruise control. I feel if I tried to hypermile it I'd be able to push 60mpg in the right conditions.

I've just returned from a road trip to Provence in my 1.5TSI manual Octavia Mk4 estate. Whilst I didn't need any of the EV/PHEV charging infrastructure I was surprised at the investment made in it since my last road trip, lots of new charging bays; there appeared to be more bays than I have noticed at UK service areas and lots of them vacant. Many a supermarket or town car parks also had new charging bays, with good levels of availability. The trip was just shy of 1900 miles most of which was Autoroute at or near the legal limit of 130kph (82mph); the remainder pootling around the hilltop villages on steep twisty roads or through the traffic of Avignon (no, rush hour was not a good plan 🙄). Four adults and a boot full of luggage & photography gear, barely enough room for the half dozen bottles of wine we brought back. Overall economy was 53.4mpg. For me, the 1.5TSi petrol estate works best.

Morning all Can i ask has anyone been promised a good will payment for the delay in registering the new Karoq's due to to dsg gearbox fault and subsequent software update? and have you received any yet. Skoda UK contacted me while i was waiting for the new car to be fixed and promised it in a bacs payment. Since the car was finally handed over on 28 July nothing, nada, communications have gone dark

MINI or Fiat 500 if not a Skoda Citigo.Up!Mii.

A couple of suggestions for you based on family experience... Suzuki Swift Ford Fiesta Honda Jazz

Being good drivers, you are already taking charge of the braking so the system merely acknowledges that it was ready to apply the brakes

For whatever reason I had to remove it. Got car on axle stands both sides but couldn't get enough on the arm to free the spring.

@tyres123The linked website is US focused and has the below photo. As you can see, in the US an all-season tyre is really just a three season tyre (not including winter) or summer tyre (that isn't an UHP Ultra High Performance summer tyre) because it's performance drops off rapidly below 7 degrees Centigrade (7 degrees Centigrade is about 45 degrees Fahrenheit), It doesn't have sipes in the tread for good traction in the snow, and the rubber hardens below 7 degrees Centigrade. In Europe, for a tyre to be classed as all-season it needs to have the 3PMSF symbol (3 Peak Mountain SnowFlake) which means that it has passed a test for good traction in the snow. The M&S marking is mainly used for marketing purposes to emphasize a chunky looking tread pattern perhaps to be fitted to a 4x4 pickup or SUV. To get the M&S marking a tyre doesn't have to pass any tests. However, you might expect to see the M&S marking if the tyre is an AT (All-Terrain) tyre. For a proper all-season tyre the M&S marking has been superseded by the 3PMSF symbol...at least in Europe. There's an error in the below photo regarding sipes. A winter or all-season tyre with the 3PMSF symbol has additional sipes for improved traction in the snow. Additional sipes aren't there to increase wet traction. For example, the Uniroyal RainExpert 5 and Uniroyal RainSport 5 don't have additional sipes. https://tyresandwheel.com/all-weather-vs-winter-tires/ Uniroyal use their RainExpert 5 for 60 aspect ratio tyres and above and their RainSport 5 for 55 aspect ratio tyres and below. Uniroyal RainExpert 5 (excellent wet weather tyre without additional sipes) Uniroyal RainSport 5 (excellent wet weather tyre without additional sipes)

Yes, i contacted a DSG technician and he told me its pure hardware issue and the basic settings will not support

@tyres123Welcome to the forum. Maybe introduce yourself and tells us where you are, and if you are in the tyre trade. Many here look to putting on the same size All Season tyres as the car comes with OEM unless they are ridiculous sized rims that make the tyre choice limited. Are you in the UK? The linked site that has 'all season tyres' very much then is about Winter or Summer, All Weathers / All Seasons is a term used and Winter Tyres / Snow tyres is something many on here are stopping using in the UK where they are not changing wheels and tyres for Winter.

Yes, I see. I would of thought if you paid for apple car play they should of been able to get that to work and same for MFSW. But, those faults sound like actual transmission hardware faults to me.... Am I right in understanding you did not notice the transmission fault until 400km later? My suspicion is it is just a co-incidence.....

51 Found

It's true they aren't ACT engines, the Superb is a 2.0TSI and the Golf a 1.6TDI. Yes, it is.

Is yours one that was held back for the July 24 software change?

Ish ?? Took car details to confirm ownership then said she would authorise payment department who should contact me in the next 24 hrs for bank details for bacs payment. Bit like pass the parcel!! Hopefully get sorted tomorrow, not holding my breath though. It's not about the money it's the convoluted promise and customer care that's ****ed me off!

I doubt it is anything to do with the infotainment coding. I suppose it is possible they messed something up along the way - but with those codes it really sounds like the transmission is not happy. For the price of paying for the pro subscription for a year, yes I’d try the basic settings / resets, synchro adaptions / clutch adaption and keep your fingers crossed. I have only direct experience of this on dq250 6 speeds. I do not know what basic setting adaptions the 7sp dq200 dry clutch has…

The Electroverse map being wrong is not the first time. Their mapping data seems to be pulled in without checking.

Thank you for that @sepulchrave! I've seen on Amazon, eBay and other sites that the purchase of some software scan tools mandates a remote installation by the vendor. This seems profoundly unwise even on a throwaway lappy. I'm still hunting and am on my way to Greece to check out Mount Parnassus.

I spotted an error this week with Electroverse when checking for new chargers & reported this to them. They have Angus Council chargers which are used with CPS as 40 pence AC and 65 pence DC, but they are 55 pence a kWh regardless of AC 7,11, 22, 43 or 50 DC chargers. PS @wyx087 Bettyhill Carpark Thurso KW14 7SP is 35 pence a kWh 22 kW AC & 70 pence a kWh with CPS.

Got to admit to being completely in love with my DSG. Haven't got much tech knowledge but when I first got mine (just coming up to 1 year) I asked a couple of questions and there was a pretty comprehensive reply from another member giving all sorts of tech info about various versions of the DSG. Part way down this page: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/514953-thinking-of-buying-and-looking-for-info/page/2/

Looks like Octopus Electroverse roaming card/app is now also compatible with Charge Place Scotland: It's now almost the one (discount) card to rule them all. Not a lot of small (incompatible) dots left on their map: I rented an EV (Model 3 or similar from Europcar) at Faro during next week's holiday, I will also be using the Electroverse card in Portugal, works with pretty much all charge points over there. No problem if it turns out to be not a Tesla and I can't use Tesla superchargers near Faro. Thanks to everyone not renting EV's, it was super cheap at £180 for 5 days, even cheaper than "Golf or similar" from budget firms.

The warning has come up a fair number of times now (Mk 4) but there hasn't been any activation of the brakes. No idea why it has been happening but on a couple of occasions we were taking a sharp turn to the left with cars parked along the road. So long as the system doesn't slam the brakes on for no good reason we'll try to ignore this glitch.

Start stop works great, and the battery is fairly new. I have no suspicions towards battery or generator. The low voltage might indicate corrosion on the terminals?? Yes, I think the new sensor will be here in a day or two, so will take a new assessment after installing it. It's just a little Weird that it's worked (with a broken lever) until now, but the electronics might just finally have failed.

@nta16 the Scala is definitely no sports car but can hold a corner. This week, I went to overtake a car on a v rough road. I’ve done that patch before. The rear tailed since the new front 215/45 tyres. It’s not as planted and rebounds on undulations. This never occurred before. The Scala is numb to drive by design but it does have excellent body control. No rebounding no matter the terrain until now. I can only place it to the new tyres. The Launch version I have is 15mm lower and has a pointless adaptive damper. My experience says the new tyres have upset the dynamics. Perhaps I’m more sensitive to it than most. I’m no fan of the low profile tyre trend, especially for Australian conditions and especially on non-performance cars like the Scala but I don’t work in VAG product team and there is no choice here. It’s 18” on every variant. Tyres are one of the most important safety items so to me, it’s crucial the setup is as optimised as it can be. It can make the difference between a very bad day or worse and I hope never to find out. Chinese tyres aren’t too bad at first but the rubber compounds degrade quickly, resulting in poor performance, especially wet. Yes it’s the Eagle F1 Sport. Only available in Australasia. Wasn't aware the Eagle heritage dates back to 80s. My Scala doesn’t have a tyre placard. And yes I’ve checked the car. They missed applying it in production. Yes a compliance breach. I got the run around from Skoda and I gave up when the 5th person to email me asked if I was in Russia? I still don’t know the pressure. I keep at 36psi. The tyre shop put them to 40psi. It seems high for such a light car.

Just a quick update... If you have been promised a good will payment (£200) from Skoda UK it has nothing to do with your dealership. You will need to ring the Skoda UK executive department (customer services) and give them your details Tel: 01135264277

That’s a great spec. I didn’t know about the SEL first edition. The issue we have is that the last Yeti had a fantastic spec and I’m trying to work out if I can forsake the luxury of heated seats.

Purchased through a dealer however they didn’t send me any warranty details, I’ve chased it up with them and apparently they’re sorting out the warranty that it should have come with. Fingers crossed!!

Yeah, it's a shame I could get booked in with my usual garage that did the repairs 10 months ago as if the top mount had failed I would expect a bit of goodwill towards fixing it. They are booked up until mid August! I've used this other garage recently for the rear hub bearing and ABS sensor as well as cambelt work before. They are a good outfit and specialise in all things VAG. They are also 2 miles away rather than 10 so they might just become my new 'go to' place.

2015 builds can have MIB1 or MIB2 depending on build date, and looking at your part number I'm pretty sure you have a MIB1 Amundsen - like my previous 2015 Elegance. Which means you cannot enable SmartLink as you need MIB2 hardware for SmartLink.

The B8 Passat and mk3 Superb don't share the same windows. There r plenty of options for Superb weather shields, including Kopacek.

Underway.

So you've never driven in wet weather when the windows mist up? AC is a lot more than just cooling, it also dehumidifies the air and hence is useful 365 days of the year. The other issue with not driving the AC compressor is that the lubricant in the AC liquid won't be effective on the compressor bearings, so you could end up with a seized AC compressor - which isn't cheap to replace.

^^^ The size and tyre that was often the Spare Wheel / Tyre for Fabias. While Skoda called it a Space Saver it was just a standard tyre and steel wheel. Speed & Load rating and pressures. Really a saver of space rather than a Space Saver.

Well that's not to say that the quality of the replacement parts is any good. I had a Febi top mount fail inside12 months, but that sounded like the droplink had failed - clicking rather then groaning. Could easily be something daft like the rear bush rubber moving inside the casting. Hope they sort it for you.

I have now been able to check what tyres were originally fitted to my 2009 Skoda Roomster. The original tyres were Continental "ContiPremium Contact 2" pattern with a 195/55 R15 85H specification. The maximum inflation pressure shown on the tyre's sidewall was 61psi (4.2 bar) - so well within Skoda's 3.2bar (46psi) recommendation for when my Roomster would be fully loaded (5 people and 3 large suitcases).

Just regular aluminum rivets, with a rivet tool.

I have copy but have reached my data limit on here so cannot share on the platform. DM me your personal email address and I'll share. I'm not sure if you've read through all the comments on here but United232 disappeared after some time. That makes it difficult to know how successful his treatment was long term. Others have tried it with varying degrees of success, myself included. In a nutshell 232's approach is to remove the fly catcher/windbreaker net (call it what you will) from the sunroof and appear a low viscosity sealant to the gaps in the structure of the frame. It's incredibly difficult to work with, has the potential to drip through and stain your seats and people are generally over-eager to apply more than is required. 232's report also fails to address the possibility for multiple ingress points. Whilst I followed 232's suggestions, I did not have real joy in eliminating water ingress. Water can make its way past the main roof seal and bypass the a-pillar drains regardless of using the 'miracle' sealant. I suspect these are real points of ingress and you should inspect the adhesive between your car body and the main seal. If it's compromised, it'll let water in for sure. Ultimately you need to know what you're dealing with (i.e. where your leak is coming from) before you can tackle solving it. That may mean gutting your interior. That's how I fixed mine. I found an addition leak path and have since prevented ingress. It's been leak free for months in all weathers. I still haven't replaced my headlining though and will monitor for as long as I feel necessary. 232's report is good for highlighting a few key hurdles in taking your car apart. It seems daunting but once you start, it just becomes a logical progression of taking more and more out. Very much like a jigsaw.

Looks like whoever had the cambelts changed made the classic mistake on an EA211 engine of thinking that changing the cambelt and water pump at the same time was required - on the EA211 they're on opposite ends of the engine so in reality there's no need to change them together. I had to "remind" the Skoda dealer in Barnstaple this when I had a 2015 1.4TSI Elegance estate.

Buy genuine then, duh!

Thanks again all. I've added some more, and I've been contacted recently so, added 4 that were missing!

Hello all, I finally figured out what the problem for me was. Apparently, the connector between the water pump and the ECU harness was not plugged in properly. It did look as if it was, however the connector was not properly "clipped in" which caused the open circuit error message. I can only assume that this has been like that since the water pump was changed (almost 50000 miles ago). Hope this helps other too.

Just bought a new Fabia Monte Carlo 1.0TSi through Lightcliffe. Excellent service from start to finish .... kept updated on vehicle build and delivery monthly then weekly. When I arrived for collection, the Fabia was immaculately presented and my assigned sales agent was very personable and knowledgeable. Can't fault them.

The springs and shock absorbers work with all tyre sizes. The springs and shock absorbers aren't tuned for the tyre size that the car is fitted with, but the weight of the vehicle. Skoda fit the same springs and shock absorbers irrespective of what tyre sizes are fitted, whether it's 195/65R15, 195/60R16, 205/55R16, 205/50R17, 205/45R18, etc. Running different outside diameter tyres front and rear isn't a good idea, especially when the difference is 3.4% as shown in the chart below. Outside diameter of tyres 215/40R18 629.2mm 215/45R18 650.7mm (3.4% bigger outside diameter compared to 215/40R18) If you're looking for a quiet, comfortable ride, summer touring tyres in size 205/50R17 fitted to the standard 6.5Jx17 ET40 rims would make more sense. Although not quite in the same league for sportiness as 205/45R18 fitted to the standard 7Jx18 ET39 rims, it's still more sporty than 205/55R16 fitted to the standard 6Jx16 ET38 rims. Another benefit of moving up to a 50 aspect ratio is that the tyres' sidewalls tend to bulge out more from the rims, thereby providing much better protection from kerbing damage. Michelin Primacy 4+ 205/50R17 89V (Euro label C A 69dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Michelin/Primacy-4_/205-50-R17-89V/D-126315 6.5Jx17 ET40 5/100 57.1 alloy rims https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-propus-17-scala-kamiq/p/654071497K+FL8 Actual inflated width of tyre 205/55R16 fitted to 6J rim 208mm 205/50R17 fitted to 6.5J rim 214mm 205/45R18 fitted to 7J rim 206mm 215/45R18 fitted to 7J rim 213mm Actual width of rim (assumes actual width is 24mm wider than J width) 6J rim 176.4mm 6.5J rim 189.1mm 7J rim 201.8mm As you can see in the chart below, the sidewalls of the 55 and 50 aspect ratio tyres (ie. 205/55R16 and 205/50R17) bulge out from their rims by 15.8mm and 12.45mm respectively. The sidewalls on the 205/45R18 bulge out from its rim by a shockingly low 2.1mm. Hence, 205/45R18 when fitted to a 7J rim provides very little rim protection from kerbing damage. For the 215/45R18 tyre size fitted to a 7J rim...the sidewalls bulge out by 11.2mm, ie. 5.6mm each side. So still well short of the 205/55R16 and 205/50R17 fitted to their 6J and 6.5J rim widths. How much wider tyre is than rim 205/55R16 is 31.6mm wider than 6J rim, ie. tyre bulges out by 15.8mm each side of rim 205/50R17 is 24.9mm wider than 6.5J rim, ie. tyre bulges out by 12.45mm each side of rim 205/45R18 is 4.2mm wider than 7J rim, ie. tyre bulges out by 2.1mm each side of rim Another benefit of 17" rims compared to 18" rims is the reduction in unsprung weight. The 17" alloy rims might weigh about 10kg each, whereas the 18" alloy rims might weigh about 11.5kg each. So that's a 6kg reduction in rim weight, and 7.5kg if you include the weight of a matching spare wheel. 215/45R18 might also be a heavier tyre than 205/50R17...so that's yet more unsprung weight.

For anyone searching this, the tools below worked perfect. Just need to clear the fault to make sure it’s all worked ok https://amzn.eu/d/09Np3mHK

Good video on getting the panel trim out, I'm looking to get the auto Stop Start module installed too, followed by replacing the peeling leather gear stick covers. It appears that they pop straight out but the top clips that hold them together seem to easily snap. Then looking to get some PDR due to botched Skoda workshop warranty job on the fuel flap, as well as replacing the whole fuel flap with a new one with new stickers.

I'm trying not to be too much of a conspiracy theorist but I have a few questions about e10. Where all this 'green' ethanol is coming from? Especially now that the Russian invasion has suddenly reduced the world's marketable grain supply by about 30% (that is Russian and Ukrainian exports which I think also fed approx 400 million people). Does it come from destroyed Amazonian rainforest? Where are the factories based that produce the ethanol? It would have to be a pretty massive production capacity. When and where does it get mixed with the petrol? At the producing refinery or at the distribution point where they usually add the added chemicals (for 95 or higher RON)? My guess is the latter as the ethanol content could determine the amount of aromatics, detergents and knock inhibitors added. How are the Euro/UK regulations regarding e10 worded? Is the 10% ethanol content fixed in stone or is it a maximum or minimum amount? I guess I am suggesting that the ethanol content may not be as large as generally thought, which would partly explain why the reported effects so far are minimal.

Pure ethanol is hygroscopic which means it will absorb moisture from the air. That's just like most brake fluid hence the need to change it every few years. Once mixed in with the other components in petrol, it really shouldn't cause an issue if the car is in regular use. If it's an older vehicle that's laid up for half a year with a steel fuel tank then it might cause a issues. To be honest, it's more likely to finish off old plastic/rubber components but they are probably due for replacement anyway... I use E10 in my '69 Sprite without any negative effects. When I dragged it out of hibernation this spring, it happily started on the first turn of the key with half a tank of months old E10 - no water/rust etc in the fuel filter 👍