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we went on holiday for a (5 day) week in North Wales (from Wigan) with the grandkids in the Superb. Wasn't quite a full tank when we left but we spent the whole week including driving around and getting home on the same tank without any fuss & drama ;o) (oh and took no time at all to refuel )

I wonder just much time you have had to spend in chasing up on your accounts and duff chargers etc in total since you went electric?

Shanks's pony

Thanks everyone but I suppose I was a bit of a div, I have now found it in the manual. I will be asking more questions but hopefully not stupid ones

Simply jump in the Tesla and drive. Car works out where I need to charge if going longer distances. But human occupants needed a break before planned charging stops so just look on sat-nav screen and stop at next supercharger. Tesla supercharger always works flawlessly for me, has never failed to charge for me. They starts charging at fastest car acceptable speed on plug in every time, zero faffing about with apps/cards. Tesla's price for Tesla vehicle or those who pay monthly sub is also very, usually 30-45p outside 4-8pm. These days, apart from using Tesla network, I only have Electroverse app and RFID (with Shell recharge as backup). Honestly, I have not had any problem since started using Octopus Juice (subsequently rebranded to Electroverse) and applying 6 minimum charger filter. Just ignore locations with few chargers. Although a bit more expensive to charge but it's a very rare event to needing worry about pricing for me. During my 1500 miles trip busy late May bank holiday, zero time spent waiting for car to charge. See the thread I posted: When renting a Tesla at Portugal, charging at Tesla supecharger were included in rental price. Also can return the car empty. So only spent a grand total of 10 minute at supercharger. 5 days only cost £180 to rent. Cheaper than renting petrol and having to return fully refuelled. For easiest and best EV experience, I still think a Tesla is the way to go. They can now be had for under £15k. If public charging is a rare event, good EV's are available for £8k (Hyundai Ioniq).

For the record the new battery has solved the problem…..

My concern is over the very existence of those joints, not the quality of the work under the tape.

Get the fault codes read.

Not dimishing your comments and desire to hold the dealer to account but you've probably spent more time, energy and electricity cost posting about this issue that you would have changing the filter yourself. Anyhow I'll leave it there and refrain from further comment.

Charging where there are just 1,2,3 or even 3 chargers will always be risky in getting a charge. Six is probably a minimum to be sure there will be several working chargers and there are now many places where there are 12,24, 36 of more chargers and most of them will be working. There will be times when all the chargers are being used and one may have to wait for a few minutes for a charger to become available but this is rare. Rollout of chargers continues at a rate of another 2000 or so a month with highlights of TESLA V4 we can all use and Gridserve charging centres with great facilities and now 20% off cost with their new App. It is getting easier and cheaper on the motorways, less great on A roads and small towns rather than cities like Worcester where we are spoilt for choice.

Loads and loads. The Girl at CPS says she will check if reported. I told her it must show in front of you the repair on the 24th June, my reported fault on 26th and a ticket raised then and my various reported faults since. Very nice and incompetent as usual. So I got £1.10 of electric. Paying £5 and now another £5 to get to 100% from 56%. That is £10 for about 56 miles. The other choice asd stopping during trip and a 55 pence a kWh charger 4 miles into the journey and might not have worked and 20 kWh would have been £11 anyway.

Hi gang, just bought an octy vrs MK1 in silver. Body needs a bit of tlc but engine wise it seems sound. Last owner had it for 16 years! 94k, Fully stock... At the moment, think it needs a new exhaust 😜

Today's update - dealer contacted me and advised that the place that they sourced the car from has done similar things before so they were none the wiser. However, recognising that they sold the car to me 'not as described' have offered to pay for a respray either at their repair shop or one of my choice. As I live 300 miles from dealer, will be my choice ! Just need written confirmation as they have asked for me to pay for it then they would reimburse me afterwards.

Bumping up this thread a bit. 🙂 I have just installed new adjustable coilovers by KW. And new rims.

Good to know. Will do that in March 2025 to maximise the benefit. I think Labour will be sensible about this to keep the transformation from ICE to EV moving and to keep the VED in favour of EVs. Do not paying something for the roads of course.

You can also increase or decrease sat nav volume with the left thumb wheel on the steering wheel ,but only while its giving voice direction .

In transportation we already have extensive rules of carrying lithium batteries which are classified as dangerous good with quite some small amount of lithium battery time. they are only allow air transport under very strict rules and same for sea transport, land moving is oft the option that is used to avoid the restrictive rules ie the silk road or the very strict carriage rules. No sure what this video has to do with a how vehicles with lithium ion batteries, compared to a cheap SE asia e-bike where most people know that quality can be somewhat variable with goods from this area. Who knows what had happened before. He may have accidently dropped the battery down a concrete stairway before and the case may have been in a very damaged state, we just do not know but we do know the spontaneous fires of EVs are rarer than petrol cars. “The overall arching takeaway (from the data) is that the rate of fires happening is less for EVs than petrol or diesel cars, and quite substantially,” said James Edmondson, Research Director at Cambridge, England-based independent researcher IDTechEx in an interview. Edmondson said various surveys showed EVs represented far less of the reported fires than might be expected given their market share. Estimates by the Phosphorous, Inorganic & Nitrogen Flame Retardants Association reported 55 fires per billion miles travelled in ICE vehicles and five fires per billion for EVs. A report from AutoinsuranceEX said EVs exhibited 61 times fewer fires per 100,000 sales than ICE vehicles.

Swapped the Altairs for a set of Becruz's .

They will not need to ban and economic conditions will get ICE vehicles off the road. Electricity is and will continue to be so much cheaper as a fuel that ICE vehicles will be staggeringly uneconomic by comparison. The delivery companies already know this and hence early adopt. I even choose to use my little Zoe EV sometimes as its running costs are so much less that my Arkana Mild Hybrid and thats with me have a fuel card for hydrocarbon fuel as the Arkana will cost be about 4p a mile of fuel where as the BEV is less than 2p a mile. Add this to the servicing on the BEV being less than half the ICE vehicle it is only tyres that are in ICE cars favour as the BEV does seem to eat tyres with its rapid acceleration off the line and slightly higher weight. So cheaper running cost is part of it and also many ICE cars will increasingly be made to be ever higher cost on VED, vehicle Excise Duty. My lovely old Type S Jaaaag was just getting silly at several hundred pounds a year. There will be ICE cars still on the roads at the end of century but they will just be enthusiasts cars popping to car meets, shows etc as a labour of love as EVs will be the choice for those who want transport and ICE cars will cost a fortune to run, maybe having revent to buying the fuel at a few specialist outlets. It is also a better stat as to how many miles are being done on EVs compared to ICE as Reps etc are generally going for EVs due to salary sacrifice or super low BIK, as well as delivery companies and this would give a very different story as to what is registered ie you can register a car, drive it a thousand miles a year or like I do tens of thousands of miles a year.

Commutator brushes worn/stuck or intermittent connection problem. How many miles has it done?

VCDS is not the same as a simple OBD2 scanner. To my knowledge, Carista, Carly or OBDEleven is not capable of coding these functions, but I might be mistaken. Not sure if this is working, as the post said it needs confirming, but here are the steps for Lane Keeping Assist: #6 (clubskodakaroq.es) This is the link to enable Traffic Sign Recognition: #10 (clubskodakaroq.es) You can find many more features that you can enable, however do everything at your own risk. Before you do any changes to any coding using VCDS, do a full Auto-Scan and save the file securely in order to be able to revert any changes made. VCDS is fairly smart and makes it very hard to mess up the coding, but sometimes it can happen that you code something badly, and it won't work properly,

which is nice but ,leaving aside not everyone is privileged enough to have at home charging nor (if they do only do trips of 2-300 miles away from home ) , that they will need to recharge at EV charging stations how long will tose recharges take? Yes you do occasionally get queues at petrol stations now but they're the exception. If we're in a world where even 50% of the total vehicles on the road will be EVs then will EV charging stations have the capacity to support demand?

@J.R. I've always had classic cars with weak batteries so starting the car with clutch depressed has become a habit over the past 43 years of driving. Thanks for this info about the clutch switch.

Looks like the rude reply has been removed ,and rightly so .

Can't comment specifically on the OG EV Ioniq but my GF has a OG Ioniq Hybrid and it's a really nice car to drive (although not as nice as my Superb) . Can't imagine there's much difference (other than the max range figure)

Yes and this is why you don't want a "cheap" insurance where everything goes to call centres where the operators have to get rid of you as quickly as possible to get on to the next call and get little training other than to do that. Even with the better and bigger insurance providers things are outsourced but there is at least some level or other route to real customer service enquiries, Often then it's a gamble when you ring as to how much the person on the other end actually knows and is willing or able to help (rather than "computer sez No") or knows how to, or is willing or able, to pass you on to the correct system/business section/person to correctly answer and deal with your needs. Some companies have communication systems that are difficult to engage with let alone get satisfactory help from, including their real live employees, some of whom may not be able or allowed to really help you even if they want to. As I put before "cheap" insurance is fine until you need to actually to use it or even engage with it. It's also the same the other way round for the insurers (or any other business) "cheap" customers who don't read their policies before and after taking them out and expect what they imagine rather than what they have agreed to and paid for and those that to any real extent lie and scam. Such is life. 🙃

You say it more politely!

How I wish that I had your problem, two of the three things that I hate about this car is having to depress the clutch to start the engine and the gearchange indicator, the other is the "Warning! Safelock, see user manual for details" that is shown when you switch off th ignition and of course the user manual makes you even more confused!

No they don't; The battery light doesn't come on. So before doing anything else, check the alternator control wires.

That’s exactly what I’ve done - fitted a set of 16” alloys with high profile CrossClimates that I never got around to selling when I parted with the previous Karoq - perfect for the nightmare roads of north Nottinghamshire. Gives the motor a more rugged look too - as opposed the trendy but effeminate look of the original wheels……😎

You can't, the sat nav is an integral part of the radio - you can however turn the radio volume down to zero while still having the sat nav instruction volume set to a different vaue. As others have said RTFM.

Slave cylinder is failing.

Wanted to take this opportunity to give a big shoutout to @varooom & @Rainesh for all the above and beyond assistance provided in this thread. I recently purchased a Skoda on a 22 plate which wasn't compatible with my Samung s23 Ultra when using Android Auto. Based on the information kindly shared in this thread, I took the challenge and upgraded from SW train 1760 to 1800. My Samsung S23 Ultra is connected immediately after upgrading with Android Auto . Very happy with the outcome... I did connect the battery to a charger, too as I was paranoid of bricking my system It took me a few attempts to prepare the USB drive so that the car could see the files on it, as I initially had the wrong folder structure. If anyone is unclear, I copied the unzipped files from 'MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L_1800.zip' to the drive (Important to note, this is the version for my SW Train) with the folder structure (One main folder and two subfolders) /MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L_1800/Meta /MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L_1800/Data To prepare the USB drive, plug into drive into a windows pc, open 'disk management' and format the USB drive with 'filesystem' 'exFat', and unzipped as above. Thanks for all the helfpul comments..

There's only a 5mm sidewall difference between the FWD SEL and 4x4 Sportline. I'm not sure why Skoda on the FWD versions decided to go 60 profile on 16's, 55 Profile on 17's, 50 Profile on 18's and 40 Profile on 19's. 45 Profile on 19's make's more sense for the FWD models.

Its like 50/50 mix. No leaks in the cooling system now I burped the system for a whopping 30 minutes. just to make sure. Watched like 10 videos too just to make sure i actually did it right.

Fair enough, sounds like you know what you're doing.

Actually, its not an unreasonable question. I've had my Octavia for 3 years and I've no idea how to get sat nav instructions without having the radio on (probably because I've never used the satnav, Waze for the win). That said I know how to turn the infotainment on and would hazard a guess that if you mute the radio (I know how to do that too 😁) you still get satnav instructions. Anyhow, for the op... ETA; Oh, and I've just read the manual. There is nothing in there about getting satnav instructions when the radio is muted 🤷‍♂️

I wanted to replace both ie chop in both but the local Renault dealer wanted the Zoe like one would welcome a lepper with covid and the clap. The market value of the Zoe is so far below what the PCP finance has outstanding is so many thousands different the just did not want to take that hit now and would rather put that off until next year when they have to take it back at the end of the PCP. I hope they will sell it to me, not for the £13k that will be outstanding but for closer to £8k which is what I expect it will we worth in a years time. The Arkana 1.333 MHEV they were relatively happy to take back, still gather they was a gap but they agreed on a scratch return and it is only two year in to a 4 year PCP as is the Zoe deal. I think Renault are very very keen to sell the electric cars at the moment at I strongly suspect that Renault UK, Supported by Renault France, are offering subsidies to get these sales. I think Renault France are supporting the 4.9% financing with Euros, they can get cheaper deals in Euros of course and because the pound has been quit strong I think there has been extra discounts supported above the normal dealer margins. It has been like pushing an open door on asking for discounts. I am a very good customer of theirs ie a new car every year for the last 4 years as well as servicing etc but they do treat me very well which I appreciate, luck to have found such a good dealership IMO. I will use the Zoe for the shorter journeys for the next year to try and keep the annual mileage close-ish to the nominated Scenic PCP mileage. Still a good car for short to medium journeys. Lots of rumours that a high percentage of smart meters are duff. Mine seems fine and I have lots of devices ie my various home batteries doted around the house which I know how much power, via their own meters, plus some inline meters on the solar feeds, and Octopus's dashboard on their app, and their billing, to know quite accurately what power is going where but I would like to see the same with the car and really need to get in to OBD2 Car Scanner apps like Bjorn Nyland uses. Quite pleased with the small battery Ariya/Scenic charge curve, clearly the 60 kWh battery is well over 60 or even 63 the way it charges close to 100%, big buffers me thinks, SOC % is very rough/misleading to suggest to owners to stop charging at indicated 99% when in fact it will go on to add another 5% or so if one just hang s on. Not recommended to do often but there if one can for the occasional longer journeys ie over 250 miles when a stop not convenient. Zoe does the same, hits 100% but continues to take charge, wish it would show over 100%. Then when you drive it take ten miles of more to take off that first 15 ie drops back down to 99%. Scenic should arrive early September and will be very rare I think with more than 90% of sales going to the 87 kWh battery version.

We don't know which system you have. Post an image of the large screen in the centre of the dash. Normally there are two round buttons, one on each side at the bottom of the screen. You just press the left hand one to turn the system on and again to turn it off Show the post about the button being next to the passenger a/c button. The button for the a/c is on the drivers side. When you turn the system on, radio, satnav, media player are all activated as well as the display between the speedo and tacho. If you don't want the radio, just turn the volume down (using the same on and off button) This also controls the satnav volume.

Thanks. The PID screen thingy doesn't show any gear change instructions, so you may be on to something. Any ideas where I would find the offending switch?

Its known as the clutch peak torque limiter, in operation it slows down the speed at which the clutch is released, if you change gear too quickly or sidestep the clutch to spin the wheels the clutch will slip protecting the transmission, it has no metallic parts and cannot rust. The master cylinder has no metallic parts either, it has a plastic piston in a plastic bore, even the pushrod is plastic, there is a sintered toroidal magnetic ring to actuate the clutch position hall sensor, any metallic residue from the brake/clutch reservoir will become attached to and held by this. The problem with the intermittent sticking clutch pedal which will soon develop to failure requiring more and more frequent bleeding is air drawn into the system through the O ring joining the two plastic parts of the concentric slave cylinder without leaking any fluid.

Have you tried reading the owners manual?

I recently took the plunge and bought a piggy back and a pedal box from DTUK. They absolutely transformed the car in the most aggressive settings. I always found that the pickup was somewhat sluggish, but with the "extra" power and adjustable pedal response, the car is a lot more fun to drive on the narrow b-roads around where I live.

Petes suggestion is the best, try and have the old and new battery charged before making the journey. Regulator/brushpack replacement is nearly always easier than alternator removal although can be fiddly, no question that is easier once off the car but its entirely doable especially if you only have basic tools and the car can continue to be driven with a charged battery, insulate very carefully the removed min cable and tie it into a safe position. Definitely check for broken sensing wire first of all.

Snap!

Use a fully charged battery to get home. Should be easy, and if you have a spare, relatively stress free. Then see if you can remove brushpack/regulator with alt in situ with all your tools available. Brushes may be worn too short, or stuck in holder.

The issue might well be the Original Battery in the Alarm / Siren. Nothing to do with the 12 volt battery. If you look for the threads using a search you will see where people have replaced the battery and not a complete unit.

Nothing beats an "Italian tune" for cleaning out a VAG engine without taking it apart.

The ban will be on buying and first registering New ICE vehicles, still 11 years away or if back to 2030 still 6 years away and then even that may not happen then and it could be pushed back. An early euro 6 petrol or diesel might not be made uneconomical to run if 14 or up to 19 years old by the times this happens. Maybe were people do not need to be going into the growing number of LEZ,s then not an issue.

Found myself having a look out of the window at work the other day so whipped the phone out and took a quick picture of the car. It’d have been rude not to. 😁