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show of hands, who knew this was a thing? I'll be honest I only found out about them yesterday although apparently they were introduced stating back in 93. A shadow toll is a contractual payment made by a government per driver using a road to a private company that operates a road built or maintained using private finance initiative funding. Payments are based, at least in part, on the number of vehicles using a section of road, often over a 20- to 30-year period. The shadow tolls or per vehicle fees are paid directly to the company without intervention or direct payment from the users. On more recent shadow toll schemes in the United Kingdom, payments reduce as the number of vehicles increase, to encourage availability of the road rather than the number of vehicles carried. M1 Lofthouse to Bramham link road M40 Denham to Warwick M80 Stepps to Haggs A1 Darrington to Dishforth A1(M) Alconbury to Peterborough A13 Limehouse to Wennington (Greater London) A19 Dishforth to Tyne Tunnel A249 Stockbury (M2) to Sheerness A30 Exeter to Bere Regis A417 Gloucester to Cirencester A419 Swindon to Cirencester A50 Stoke to Derby link A55 Llanfairpwll to Holyhead A69 Carlisle to Newcastle https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadow_toll

Glorious sky for a fleeting moment this evening. Was bucketing it down as I snapped the photo with my phone................

Jon got his idea for the video from a Post I made in his FB group the same day

As I had a wheel-alignment tool for my Fabia, I thought I should get the same thing for my Roomster and I ended up purchasing the pair of 'pins' shown below These are longer than the pin I keep in my Fabia and their shaft is the same diameter end-to-end (rather than being waisted like my Fabia's pin and thus less likely for the wheel to fall off the pin). They fit OK in the Roomster's (and the Fabia's) hubs and are well made and adequately sturdy. They have a thin smooth clear-plastic sleeve from (on the photo) the left end up to the start of the knurling and carrying the M14x1.5 marking. The sleeve's plastic surface would undoubtedly soon become worn if used 'professionally, but that's immaterial where my own usage is concerned. Ordered through AliExpress on 23 August with an anticipated delivery-date of 3 September and arrived today. E-mail notifications sent to me from when my order was accepted in China and at each stage of the package's journey to my home address. The pins were well packed and clearly labelled and the total cost (including taxes and postage) was £1.41 (that's £0.705 per pin!)

Unladen mass not less than 425kg not including the mass of the battery pack for EV's There must be several modern vehicles that could get under that figure for an EV version given the mass of a thermal engine and transmission compared to an Electric one, the problem for the maufacturers is that it would only give them a competitive advantage in the French market, its a shame other countries do not have the same liberty for drivers without licenses, anything that could reduce the amount of dangerous muppets on Electric Scooters could only be a good thing. The Citroen Ami is doing very well here as its far better than the other VSL's and is acceptable to most who would mock them.

England really does need to get a grip of this. The electric, the oil the gasses, and so much else that it depends on importing. Wales or some Welsh do not want the overland transmission cables to export electricity to England any more than some in Scotland do. They say spoiling beauty spots and ruining tourism. It is England that needs to be moving quicker. Frack, drill, extract and build for your own needs. PS. You say UK. You posted the National Grid for Great Britain. The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Islands. Or British isles. PPS. If England get on with the Nuclear projects that eat up UK money then maybe there will be less importing needed.

Hi, nice to see another Czech here Have you tried to look up some info from Feliciaklub page and FB group? Regarding the fan, I think that the only difference is capability to run on lower speed - two pin variant had resistor mounted on the fan shroud to run on the low speed (or no resistor to run on full speed only), the three pin variant has low speed function integrated. Regarding the wiring, you can check factory wiring as well. @Thefeliciahacker's diagram looks similar to the factory wiring, it just uses some extra relays, that may be redundant - the factory solution, for example, uses radiator switch to run 1st speed directly, and only one relay to run 2nd speed - pressure and radiator switches are parallel and connected to the relay coil. You have some freedom there, the important part is how it works: 1st speed - triggered by the radiator thermoswitch (low) or AC switch/ compressor clutch signal 2nd speed - triggered by radiator switch (high) or AC high pressure switch It's good that you got the original Autopal radiator - I read that aftermarket radiators might be an issue on 1.3 AC cars due to poor quality and Alex condenser may have pipes situated in a way that collides with a larger radiator

Where more petrol car drivers got the answer right than wrong was around energy independence where 37% recognized that more EVs running on British renewable electricity would make the UK more energy independent than relying on increasing imports of oil and petrol. 29% agreed with the incorrect statement that EVs would weaken the UK’s energy independence. Granted, more EVs would reduce the amount of Oil/ Petrol imported but its doesn't make the UK more energy independent. As I write this the UK is currently having to import 22% of its electric , that's some way off being "energy Independent" and more EVs could mean even more needing importing ;o) https://grid.iamkate.com/

If you mean just the silver bit, it's easy as just screws. We had ours painted body colour. This video is of an Octavia mk2 which will be very similar, so a good idea of what's involved. Worth a go I think. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JIHUiHgBRTU&pp=ygUeU2tvZGEgeWV0aSByZWFyIHBhcmtpbmcgc2Vuc29y

A short to 12V fault code can also mean that a wire (or corroded connector pin) is open circuit. You say you've checked the wires are intact, but have you checked any connectors in the circuit too?

oooooh a special fob magnet holder to turn on power in a hotel room. That would be annoying as with the majority of hotel rooms (in my experience) you can normally use any credit card sized piece of plastic to turn power on as all they are really is are mechanical switches What this thread needs is a picture of this special fob and fob holder

Hi Windybum, After cleaning up the block I checked the coolant pump and thermostat housing and could find nothing wrong so I decided not to buy the new assembly. I replaced the housing to block seal and the O rings on the 'cotton reel' (plus the intake manifold seal). I pressure tested with air and it held pressure overnight and it now has done some decent motorway mileage with no problems.

Just watched this video and if true (no reason to doubt otherwise) then this just highlights the problems of poor decisions our politicians make and how much they manage to squirrel away from the public purse in the long term, preventing other more important uses of the public money. I'm not saying that any politician benefits directly from these decisions, but I suspect that many have had their ears bent back by some of the well known think tanks, which are nothing more than lobby groups for already wealthy clients looking to become even wealthier, in my opinion. Any thoughts on this?

If not only all cars came with a spare / emergency wheel / tyre but also a trolley jack and good jacking points what a simple world it would be.

There was no point other than clear info on No Licence and needing a licence Quadricycles. There is no need to be near your skin. I just posted some guff to read that covered the subject.

They are easy to find if you search "M14x1.5" on aliexpress and filter the results to a price between $0 to $2 so that you don't have to wade through all the expensive items. £1.17 for two seems almost too good to be true if it includes shipping to the UK. I've never purchased anything from aliexpress so do let everyone know if it's a scam or whether you really can get a bargain on aliexpress. However, I won't be purchasing them because I just use my trolley jack or VAG supplied scissor jack to carefully adjust the height of the car so that the weight of the wheel/tyre is supported by the ground while I insert the wheel bolts. 2pcs Wheel Alignment Pin Wheel Hanger Pin Set Rim Stud Pin Guide Tool Aluminum Alloy for Car Tire Repair M14x1.5 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006528574424.html

England kept voting in parties that are incompetent as they are. Scotland does the same with their governments but get landed also with the Westminster government as voted in by RofUk. The Skye Bridge was the most expensive toll road in Europe. There is corruption and waste everywhere because of politicians and others that can not run their own lives but run countries. Any change due any time soon? Are the Labour government going to break the contracts and buy out those to that hold all the cards,? Will the people revolt? Scotland Wales and Northern Ireland have lovely stretched of road EU funded. Just stretched. Fancy walls, sculptures and unnessery crap obviously. Money was plentiful for the few. For haulage of fish, timber etc, sometimes crawler lanes or passing places, but expensive ones.

ehem Please refer to this I posted way back on the 30th July.....................

So first wheel bearing just went at 140,000km, passenger rear. Went from mild resonance to disconcertingly loud grumble in 3 days. Another thing I love about the Superb if you don't get bent over with stuff like this fails. New bearing was €70, you could actually get them for €50 or €140 if you wanted SKF. My local dealer replaced it for €80. Happy with that. Let's see how how long before the opposite axle goes.

Well it looks like I accidentally posted in the wrong section, oops, sorry. The video that Geoff Buys Cars posted is completely on a different topic to this one and there is absolutely no connection between the two as you should know, if you watched the video, did you? I already know that you no longer watch Geoff's video, which is a real shame, as you will discover when the system rolls out, and also just what the system is capable of.

What has that got to do with video about the A1M?

Definitely, if not sooner.

To be clear I am not talking about adding flex to a car. I am talking about adding stiffness. Unless thought is applied when adding said stiffness you might direct forces to unwanted areas of the chassis without realising it. This could negatively affect the handling or even the structure of the car. I'm not saying don't do it, just think about what is needed before spending loads on a car. At the same time, if you know what you are getting and that is what you are after then have at it. We all like a mod here and there.

Media Teams, Journalists and those in a parallel universe on UK 60 mph NSL roads with a max 70 mph limit. They all love sportiness and handling and ultimate driving machines that corner flat etc. Then when they get a hard riding crashy car they tell us about it. We are not talking BTCC cars here, just people carriers the size often used for Airport Transport or Wedding / Funeral cars. Big motors with warm hatch performance.

Always had problem with those with yellow ring, with those with blue no problem at all. With yellow always had more coolant temperature indication in the gauge cluster, i don't want them. I bought my Felicia with Alex a/c on it.

One can install solar panels and a sizeable install can enable entirely energy independence on an individual level. Last time I checked, back yard oil drilling isn't a thing. The import/export of electricity via interconnect are from our neighbours rather than dictators. This local energy trading is also important to allow more resilient renewables before enough renewables and storage capability is available. You know where I'd put EV's in that equation Let's also not forget UK both buys and sells throughout the day.

The VW battery info stuff was about VW stats, and probably being able to blame the battery manufacturers for some VW balls-ups that stuff is redundant now and not on the batteries. Yeap the 'coding' is basic just getting the capacity (ah) correct or at leas very close, battery manufacturer means nothing now, serial number was a joke as seen from factory below my wife's battery and others that have reported on here were all "1111111111" so just changing the last digit was enough to show a new battery, most important was the type of battery, EFB or AGM (know as "fleece/Fleece" to VW. varoom made the attached pdf freely available to those that want it for VCDS battery 'coding'. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf

It's only the cheapest one they did at the time (2019), Topdon 101 - the nearest equivalent on your link page would be the BT50..... I bought it on the recommendation of my Indie spanner monkey - he used a all singing all dancing Topdon and was happy to recommend the brand. I'm sure my humble bottom of the range device may well be less accurate than some but it gives me a good indication as to the battery state.

Its all irrelevant and you are playing into their hands by trying to find a defence, you are on holiday not preparing for a court of law and even if you were the opinions of random people on the internet count for nothing. Tell them that you havn't broken it, that it opens the car and cranks the engine, you neither know nor care why it doesn't start or what it is going to cost them to fix their non running 10 year old rental vehicle, they will either own the situation or they wont, if you have not paid a deposit what are they going to do? The disinterest in their problem is the key (pun intended!) once you start debating whether your hôtel key fob could have affected it you are playing into their hands, if they could and will get the money out of you by charging your credit card with a customer not present transaction they would not be wasting their time debating, if they can and do then you oppose it and you will get the money refunded unless you have signed something admitting liability.

I don't believe it has a separate part number. Your only option seems to be replacing the whole thing.

If bins can talk to you why not EV chargers. It could make things simpler.

I don't want to take the risk, i will go to a local Locksmith for this task Example: https://keystation.co.uk/car-keys-parts/conversion-cases?srsltid=AfmBOoq4lWz6O1gNd-G5dEag0CsHSdvuaBTlgA-T9g5SwId7Ie1Vf_q5 so in case of something goes wrong in the future to to know who to turn to. To raise the trunk is a matter of the construction of the car or the ability of the alarm? Some key fobs can also open the hood (bonnet in english as @nta16 says), this also is from the car characteristics or from the alarm?

Sadly that's been the case for several years, it's been widely reported on the media for several years that the drivers who pay most for their insurance are those who don't shop around. The "loyalty bonus" is a bonus to the insurance company because you pay MORE for loyalty not less.

That is fine, if used in a City, Town, Village or countryside it is a SMALL Car and requires a driving licence in the UK. (Just the Appropriate licence then for a Quadricycle with a speed up to 90 kmh in the UK and get insurance.) A Heavy Quardricycle that can go on Motorways. (I posted the vid last week in the Under £25,000 ev thread. It gets possibly 3 times the miles per kWh than i do in the MINI Electric used in town or maybe a city..)

are you talking about the credit card type hotel keys? Not enough magnetism in them to worry anything and nor more than a typical credit card (TBH I'm still getting whiffs of 3 replacement fobs & stolen cars)

9 miles to the kWh is quite amazing.

Don't forget you would need to buy new blank immobilizer chips to put in the new folding key, and then have them copied/coded from old keys.

Hi again. Just wanted to write an update for everything to see and hear. So it appears that once you've had an accident, the insurance app doesn't appear to update unless you tell it to, especially when it comes to renewal quotes. So I was given my automatic renewal quote (without claim) which was about £100 more than my previous year, same excess and NCD protection. Going back on their app, I looked into my renewal and updated my details (with the new claim) and my renewal quote jumped to a nearly 100% increase. Yikes! This felt like being a brand new driver. I should mention that this was done in the day time, on the app and with not over a phone call. Once I was over the shock, I decided to go onto a popular comparison website and started up a new quote, with all the same details during the day. My best quote, even with motoring legal added on, was £40 cheaper than my last year's renewal price. This was done just under 23 days but more than 2 weeks to the renewal, in the day time and on a new incognito browser. This quote also had a lower excess. The insurance company is also one of the larger companies too. Calling up my current insurance about the renewal, they removed nearly all of the 100% increase but in the end was still £70 more expensive than my new quote. So what can I say about all of this? It doesn't make sense, loyalty is dead in insurance and that it's best to shop around. Overall I'm happy but now just need to wait until the claim is done and cleared in 5 years.

That is an "emergency door key" and not an ignition key. You owe them nothing since you have not damaged the key.

Plain keys without the remote control buttons can still have an RFID chip, all vehicles since around 1995 have had them and in the early years at least many if not most were not remote control keys. Given the immobiliser cutting in and the dash display its fairly certain that the key contains an embedded RFID chip. These will no be affected by magnetic fields, indeed they are designed to function within one. They are trying it on regarding the key and their speculation as to how you are supposed to have damaged it but hire companies have loads of tricks they can exploit, more often its the budget ones that do so.

Yes, it was a salesperson. An order placed now would be ready in mid-November - How true that is I don’t know but another member above who has placed an order seems to have a similar timescale to me.

Drove 650kms to Bordeaux in June the same week I took delivery, the standard seats were supremely comfortable with no problems whatsoever, best ever on any car I have ever owned. The sports seats look very nice but they are more than likely style over substance like anything with the word 'sport' usually is.

On my 2024 SE-L there's no way it would go a month without some sort of intervention, be that a run else a top-up charge. I've been out today, did around 50 miles, and the battery now (on the Topdon meter) is showing 68% charged 'good battery'. I've done the test a few times before and the battery is never more than 70% charged after a run - however, if I put the Ctek on overnight it'll come up to 97%. After letting it stand for 9 days recently (locked) the state of charge was down to 32% - a little worrying I think. A few months ago my Superb battery was replaced under warranty (long story on the Superb page) and since then I've been monitoring its condition. If I leave the car locked I see quite a decline in the state of charge, though if I leave it in the garage unlocked it'll lose almost nothing - after putting it on the Ctek almost a month ago it's gone from 98% down to 89%. I'm sure the VW back room boys have done their sums but letting the car only charge the battery to 70% just doesn't seem right. The Superb has had 2 services and my previous Karoq also had two services - on all occasions the 'advice' was that the car needed a long run to charge the battery, yeah, really? The dealer offered to charge the battery on the Superb for £30 - thanks but no thanks, especially as it turned out the battery was a dud. Just my experiences and observations on Skoda stop-start batteries.

ISTR it was the CTEKs themselves that packed up. I can’t remember which type it was but it was up the food chain from the CTEK 5 I’ve got. Had mine a couple of years and it has done fine.

The factory OE thermostat housing has gone through the following revisions: 06L121111H 06L121111J 06L121111K 06L121111L 06L121111M 06L121111P - CURRENT So i would hope it has been upgraded and repaired since then so it doesnt fail easily.... The coolant pump has gone through the following 06L121012A 06L121012H 06L121012K 06L121012L - CURRENT

I did mine a couple of months ago. Pretty straight forward job, but yes there are some things worth mentioning when doing this on 4x4. I have a pretty well equipped garage with a scissor lift, so pretty easy. If u have epb you will need vcds to retract the epb brakes. Some use 9v battery, but its really your choice. Also on 4x4 you will need to disassemble the rear wheel bearing housing and lower the bottom suspension braclet that holds the spring. Should use special mcpherson spring release tool, but clamps will work. Anyway, the spring has to come off to release the wheel bearing housing in order to push out the rear axle. You will not gain access to whell bearing bolts without this step. The lower bolt on the suspension must also come loose and that is only available once the spring is out... Anyway, when all this is done, removing the 3 or 4 wheel bearing bolts is easy. Sometimes the wheel bearing itself is pretty stuck caused by rust and corrosion. I used a slidehammer to shock retract the wheel bearing. A special tool yes. Once out, clean and lube before refitting new bearing. And now the fun part starts to assemble the lower suspension strut bolt and the spring. Without a mcpherson compression tool, you will have to use a hydraulic car jack or something similar to press the lower rear control arm back in place to fit the new stretch bolt onto control arm and wheel bearing housing. I used a gearbox jack, others use a normal hydraulic jack. Your choice. When all is done, do not tighten those bolts yet, since you have to tighten to specs when car is situated in proper ride height. Use a torque wrench and tighten to specs. Now, assemble brakes, caliper etc and youre done.

Yes, you can do it with VCDS or OBDeleven.

👍 Maybe they were installed the wrong way round and slid out. They had groves and a lip on one side that matched up to the main section.

Front: Disc: 5Q0615301F Pads: 5Q0698151AH - sensor included Rear: Disc: 3Q0615601A Pads: 3Q0698451L

When the 1.5TSI engine was first introduced there was a lot of complaints about kangarooing when setting off. My Golf I owned at the time with the same engine had a software update to improve the behaviour. I suggest you ask the Skoda dealership to check the software status for the engine and to apply any updates. Also the car should be interrogated for any fault codes in the system. The stop start needs a high charge level in the battery to function and if the car is standing for a while unused it does not surprise me that you have to drive a distance for it to function.