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After exactly two months, the long-awaited LK 2.0 TSI 265HP 4x4 car arrived. I am very pleased, I like it very much, it is very comfortable and stable. It was manufactured on August 22 and unfortunately the problem with the noise from the rear suspension is still present. At the moment I only have 500 km, the assistance systems work perfectly, the wireless carplay connection is very fast. The wireless charger heats up the phone quite a bit. @QuinFin

Hi There, I recently purchased a 21 plate Octavia 1.5 TSI Mild Hybrid (private sale). Nice car, however the car I seem to be having a sporadically issue with low battery voltage. The vehicle is hard to start, starter clicking imitating a dead battery, but will always start on a 2nd attempt. Sometimes this can be a first thing in the morning or after a quick visit to the shops, with the vehicle not being off for more than 5 minutes. I am also getting sporadic sensor errors (Park Distance Sensor Error, Start/Stop Error, Oil level warning etc), also the entertainment system shuts down, which all points to a low voltage supply. Here's the thing, there is a very new looking alternator and aux belt on the car, along with a warranty record dated late last year of a battery diagnosis and replacement. I know they have a 48v starter/alternator system, so I am starting to think I have a deeper issue than a mere battery or alternator issue. I also fear that if the vehicle has been to Skoda before under warranty and the issue was not rectified, it may be a case of throwing parts at the issue (at my expense!), which I am keen to avoid. Hoping to hear from other Skoda HEV owners if they have experienced this issue? Thanks in advance.

After a long drawn out diagnostic period (4 months) I have finally cured the slow speed front groan when turning the steering wheel, it wasn't the front springs or shocks, nor the rear springs or shocks, nor was it drop links or track rod ends etc. it turned out to be the front Anti Roll Bar bushes 🙂

Here there is two SW OCU 141 and 143 https://mega.nz/folder/bupmCaqA#dGb8Y30eDZ3rx95kts3E_A Try to reinstall the 143. I can't repair It but my dealer "do the same" (they said) and it work..... by the moment.

Normally they do last longer, because in UK we have roundabouts, and left handed junctions are generally tighter lines than turning right. Therefore it is normal to find left front wears most and right rear wears least. So if you switch around tyres (and they are not directional like P7s), then can get good mileage. On my car (over 65k miles and 6 years old, which is about 35k miles on summer P7s, other 30k on winter tyres), Each spring the least worn goes on front left, the most worn back right and my factory P7s all still have 3.5-4mm of tread, so are comfortably heading towards 50k miles. If Op thinks replacing 2 tyres every 20k miles is better than replacing 4 every 50k miles then I disagree. .

Well done, no need for reward, but keep me in mind if you have any electric window trouble, or hear of anyone else needing repairs. 🙂

And... now seemingly a successful result. BCM from a VW Polo (same part number) arrived from eBay for the grand total of £17. Fitted, recoded, dash back together (the headlight switch was tricky). Result. Thank you all, especially @Breezy_Pete for your help. DM me and I'll buy you a beer.

Sorry I misunderstood. My wipers always rest in the same position as far as I can recall. If it rains tomorrow I will investigate.

So to give you guys an update . Have changed the pulley and it's been fine since. Have ran it for about 2 weeks now with no issue in regards to that. The pulley I used was this one; https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ina/2386771 you will need the tools remove it though as well. Luckily we had them at work already.

Aye, some random chit chat would be good in a 'chit chat' section. Like you, not complaining, but when looking for comments about a specific post I am interested. particularly this one about rear disk brakes, random photos and comments is a bit of a turn off. Sorry, just saying!

Not sure if it's equally as ugly as it's electric only brother or even uglier.

This is the kind of nonsense you get in the media like the Express. A recall of a specific Model, Mini Cooper Electrics 2020-2024. That is cars built in the UK. What they show though in the article are 2024 cars that are built in China and that have their own possible issue. Brakes.

They'll be in here somewhere: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/

Today I fitted my Virtual Cockpit screen protector from Innovative Paint Protection Solutions It has clearly up 95% of the marks I had on my original screen where the previous owner likeed to put their phone 😭

I've added a few extra bits and bobs to my 2017 fabia colour edition that I've cleared up with the dealership since it's on finance. Has anyone else seen any replacements for the gear stick? I've been told there's a short shifter attachment out there but I haven't managed to find it.

He said it idled in the shop but I don't see this os relevant if I filled up after the service and immediate embarked on my usual trip. I have refilled and will set off on my weekly trip soon. Will be interesting, but I'm worried I'll run out of fuel if it problem gets worse. The place I drive is remote & fuel very expensive. It was a standard 30,000 service as per the service pack purchased with vehicle.

scottf51 The lengths of my 2024 Skoda Fabia Mk4's wiper blades are 650mm (driver side) and 450mm (passenger side), whereas the lengths of my 2009 Skoda Roomster's wiper blades are 530mm on both the driver and passenger side - so comparing the relative speed of a 'single-action' wipe (ie push down on the stalk once) for the two cars would be a mite inconclusive irrespective of the screen being dry or wet. To side-step this I fully lifted the blades on both cars so there was no 'wiper drag' on the windscreen and the the Roomster's single-action wipe was definitely SLIGHTLY faster than the Fabia's. In both cases the experiment was with each car's ignition on, but without the motor running. I did not think my Fabia's wiper speed was particularly slow and was certainly fast enough for 'single wiping'. When closed, there is no 'play' in my Fabia's oil filler-cap when closed and there is an obvious 'snap' noise when the cap is turned clockwise and becomes fully closed. But my Fabia has the 1.0litre motor, not the 1.5litre, so not really a valid comparison. If the 1.5litre motor's filler-cap should also 'snap' when properly closed, and your car's cap does this, it's reasonable to assume there's nothing wrong with it. (And if it does not 'snap, that could well mean that it is not designed to do this and, in which case, there probably is still nothing wrong with it...)

I give my wiper blades a frequent wipe with wiper wash on a cloth and keep the wiper parking area clean. It helps the initial take off when the wipers are turned on until you can give a squirt from the washer bottle.

I like to tramp on and the car corners predictably and accurately, I do tone it down in the wet but that is only sensible. Other traffic respected in all conditions of course.

I'm still trying to find the right RadioDB. As I have an JND Device, this is the latest one: MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.48b But the update is still not succesfull, as the following incompatibility occurs: In Meta/multi.mnf I can find my train "FM3-S-NDWBY4-EU-SK-MQB-PC" in the section "Variant" But while updating I get the error message, that the train is missing in Meta/StationLogoDB_1.31.42_EU_ZR3_MQB_sec/main.mnf which is indeed the case And now the question is: by intention or by fault 🙂 Regards, Dodger

Welcome to the forums. I'm not familiar with the FL versions but from what you describe things don't sound quite right. Perhaps force a restart of the infotainment system (typically hold the on/off button for 10 seconds or so with the ignition on). My only other thought is were you able to create & login as the main user of the car? If not, then the dealer will probably need to assist in verifying your ownership and authenticating via the Škoda servers. Hope you can get it sorted soon...

Hi @don_kiddik, my one is Karoq Edition 21, for coding I'm using iCar OBD adapter with car scanner app(it was cheapest). It will allow you to play with different things and to scan the faulty codes.

For proper information about wheels and tyres on the Superb, read here: From an insurance point of view, if you fit a type approved combination per the lists in that thread it should not be considered a modification.

Problem resolved today, replaced rear pads and discs. 100% worn and was metal on metal!

Here's an example of a suitable 16" wheel for the Superb MK2. It will fit all models, except for the 3.6litre V6 petrol that needs at least 17" wheels. 16" wheels are far more resistant to pothole damage on the Superb MK2 than the very unpractical 18" wheels, and will give a far more comfortable ride. Alcar 9257 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (for Superb MK2) (£45.00 each including shipping to the UK from Germany) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=182363349315490928&rimCode=ALCAR9257 The below set of four wheel trims for the above steel rims can be ordered from any VAG parts department by quoting OEM part number 5L0071456 Z31. The UK price might be slightly more than the £63.03 Czech price. Set of four wheel trims for 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1steel rim 5L0071456 Z31 (1869CZK is about £63.03) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-satellite-16/p/5L0071456++Z31 Alcar 9257 steel rims with fitted Continental AllSeasonContact 2 205/55R16 94V XL tyres (£157.76 each) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cw/bundle?vehicle_ids=182363349315490928&wheelId=SKWi-9257--D-127967&wheelIdWithTpms=&season=gan&rimType=steel

101905617C comes up as what they gave me, NGK ZFR6T-11G according to various websites, so I guess I'll go with that.

Awesome - thanks for going to the effort of taking the photos! It does look like the arm is different between the 2. I've found a wiper which looks like it might work from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0CP2PFL98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , although I'd rather use a more reputable brand personally (Bosch tend to be my go to). I'd guess sometime between 2020 and 2023 they changed the arm.

RIP Fabia 2005 - 2024

Might only be the contact points, try giving them a clean up first. You can test the bulb by contacting it straight to the little battery using a bit of spare wire aswell.

You are not getting this are you - it's not about lowering the speed limit or phoney / lip service public consultations - if you read the thread it's about the speed warning technology in new vehicles being quite clever and alerting the driver to a change they may not be aware of. Now, you infer that drivers (me?) don't look out of the windscreen, oh but I do, I see almost all that matters - what I don't see is things that aren't there anymore, like a missing 40mph sign that had been there for some years! I challenge anyone, especially you Stonekeeper, to notice the removal of a 40 sign, not a change, a complete removal - drivers are simply not looking to notice something that's no longer there - now bring the limit down from 50 to 40 else 30 then the changed sign would be quickly recognised by a driver paying attention. There was a time any change in posted speed limits would have been accompanied by temporary rectangular information signs advising of the change, most especially in this particular 30 to 40 to 30 scenario you so diligently uncovered but alas, Notts CC don't think it necessary and thus, as logiclee points out, the greatest income from the fines comes from locals, that is them that use the road, not live on it.

i ordered mine on the 8th of July. with at that time an estimated delivery time of 4th of october

This video might help.

I found the culprit ...a 10A FUSE !! After scouring numerous forums I eventually decided to check every fuse on the car until I eventually got to the one I have circled ....and it was blown. I replaced it and hey presto....everything is back as it should be 😀 Just to recap. Dipped beam lights remained on when ignition was on, irrespective of switch position ( i actually removed the switch and lights remained on!). Rear fog lights not working and neither was the removable rechargeable torch in the boot. Hope this helps someone else faced with the same issue. Best wishes folks 👍 😀

For anyone looking at this thread in the future. I have a 2015 euro6 2.0 tdi SE L Octavia. I bought the car in April this year on 63k and planned on getting the cambelt and water pump done at 80k miles latest just to be safe. Wanted to do it after the 3 month warranty ended but had to get the alloys refurbished due to losing 3-6 psi a day and warranty doesn’t cover alloys apparently. My coolant low level light came on a few weeks ago. I topped it up and it happened again two days later. Have a mechanic in the family so took it to his branch. The cars now on 69k and the water pump pulleys bearings had all worn away meaning the the pulley was oscillating when spinning and the cambelt was rubbing against the side of the engine and on the verge of snapping. I got told I was a very lucky boy having just bought the car. Just had them both replaced but I think people should air on the side of caution and get it looked at especially if you depend on it for work like me. Got a colleague with 69plate and he’s getting his done sooner than planned having heard about mine but he’s only on 63k.

Given the BS about "balanced gas mileage" that will be US and not imperial gallons.

picked up my new to me ride on Friday, today I had a clean and wax session with Fusso 99;

Just the same as you did when you reconnected today.

well i changed my badges over today, i found going in with the dental floss from the underneath the easiest, done all the steps, not sure its 100% straight but i dont think ill be able to move it or really notice out and about but it looks much better and how it show come from the factory, heres a before and after

Yes, the front bumper needs to b removed in order to get the headlights out or in - no other way. I've attached a how-to for the front bumper removal. Should help. Essentially:- 1. Put front on jack stands 2. Remove wheels 3. Remove wheelarch liner 4. Disconnect wiring harnesses 5. Disconnect headlight washer pipe 6. Remove bumper 7. Remove headlights Reverse the process to put things back. Removing Front Bumper.pdf