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How often do people in London drive to penzance though. The calculation is also based on always charging at a superfast chargers price. You can charge with slower chargers if you have the time. Admittedly people with no home charging at all benefit less from an ev. But i used the zap map site to compare my short daily trip to work with an enyaq compared to my Ford, charging at home with no special rates 24.6p/kwh So the reverse is true for most journeys with an ev over diesel/petrol. Short journeys give better m/kw than mpg with the diesel/petrol which prefers longer trips. Also when i just checked tthis with zapmap they are still using 120.9ppl for fuel price Just bit the bullet and bought an enyaq, collect it tomorrow

Looks a bit like a classic roman sculpture of a bearded man with some groovy sunglasses on: ....wearing a curious space helmet. Don't mind me - too much chocolate G

As expected, (electric) EGR valve not looking pretty at all, and several chunks of carbon fell out before I got it off.

Real cost of driving EV long distance, during May bank holiday: Absolutely no problem with the VW 60 kWh battery. Only need to regularly charging to 100% is recommended is LFP batteries. If your mileage is very low, can even consider lowering charge limit, I regularly charge to 60% and only up it when I need the extra miles. But I'm not keen on relying on granny charger. It is highly dependent on the plug socket. An old socket with weak pins may overheat which is a hazard if you are charging overnight. Either charge during the day and check on it (touch the plug casing) every hour or get a proper charge point fitted. Regarding public charging. Just get Electroverse card: https://electroverse.octopus.energy/map (message me for a referral link and get a few £ credit on sign up, same with switching to Octopus Energy) Single Electroverse card covers vast majority of UK networks. See here:

Bp pulse Subscribers pay £7.85 per month for the lower rates to save 16p = 50kw per month every month to start saving. Initially i will hold off on the wallbox at home because generally i don't go far. Will it be ok for the battery if i set it to charge to 80% and maintain it there after trips by plugging in a granny charger to replace my daily low mileage? I would then only have to pay the higher rates if i went too far from home which i assure you will be rare. But i will be saving the planet. I am also now learning that away from home charging could be a nightmare for me because i don't have a mobile phone contract 😂

Tesla charging or Tesla non Tesla is not double the price of petrol. Anything like 40 pence a kWh and 3.5 miles a kWh is 10 kWh for £4.00 or 20 for £8 and that is taking you 70 miles. 4 miles a kWh then 80 miles for £8.00. you are going to be at 80 pence a kWh charging to be double the price of petrol in the UK are you not? Typical EV and 3.3 miles a kWh. Sloppy use of typical. Then ultra rapid. Typical EV,s might only Rapid charge, as in 50 kW max. Or can charge at 100 or 100 plus kW. More newer TYPICAL EV,s. That might be. Bigger battery ones that might well be getting charged less often on a journey.

Highly unlikely for shaft diameter, taper or spline pitch to match, even between models - let alone different manufacturers.

Best MPG I’ve had in the 280. Surbiton to the Stena line port at Birkenhead plus one stop on the M6 Toll.

The cruel irony is that the £39.99 one from a scrapper: Is also from a flash red, '65 plate Polo, just like Mrs Gaz's. What's the betting it was from the same f'kin' pot of paint and would have faded to be a near f'kin' perfect match for Mrs Gaz's? 🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄 Gaz

I feel for you Gaz That painted plastic filler cap cover is going to cost you, her and the third party big time and its all your fault 😆

A saving is there if reconditioned injectors fitted. These should work as good as new ?

Intrigued also, I thought he meant the 'options key' also known as 'Alt?' AND 'J' but this doesn't work for me either so who knows, maybe this is some sort of Apple keyboard trickery🤮???

Hi. If you have any issues with insurance come renewal time then please feel free to drop me a line, Regards, Dan,

That wasn't made clear in your previous post. It would have been better to have quoted what was in the YT vid as it comes across as being your words.

No.

The parameter can be adjusted using VCDS, within a +/- 15% range IIRC.

Thanks, I did it yesterday, easy job to remove and replace the wishbone, The bush was a bit tricky, even with a press, the arm isn't flat and I didn't have a socket(or similar) the right size to go under the arm. So it was difficult to start it off straight. All done now with a bit of persuasion. Lol 👍👍

It is two 18mm bolts and 3 nuts for the ball joint to drop the wishbone

It is really just, with the car stationary, after checking and correcting the tyre pressures, go into the TPMS menu, STORE new pressures, then CONFIRM, then drive off and the system will quickly collect the data from all 4 wheels.

I'd do the rear brakes first and see if that cures it. Had the same rear whining noise intermittently on my wife's 2013 1.6 TDi although not getting any vibration. I checked and couldn't find any evidence of a wheel bearing either. It went through the NCT (Irish version of the MOT) last week and they highlighted that the rear pads need doing shortly. I'm wondering if there was a bit of binding going on causing the noise. I'll do them and see if that solves it.

I do not know the procedure for resetting the Fabia TPMS but the ABS-driven system in the Honda Jazz depended on driving for a spell. Confirm in your owner's manual if something similar needs to be done. The Jazz TPMS triggered on just a few PSI loss of pressure but was sensitive to tread depth. It was lost if you had a worn tyre on one side and a new one on the other.

if the car goes straight and the wheel alligment is ok , i would take the steering wheel of an place it correctly. Maybe the steering wheel has been taken off at some time and not placed correct when reassembled

How old is the battery? I think this may well get worse before it gets better and start including other symptoms like starter goes "clunk" but does not turn engine after car is left overnight.

Hello all, I would like to repost on this thread my findings on this horrible noise. I was almost subject to a large mechanics bill myself before trying this out. I've had MK3.5 Octavia VRS for around a month now and have had this noise for almost my whole time owning the car. What started with mine was brake squeal, which prompted me to have the calipers off and pads out. There was no copper grease around the edge of the pads, after fitting some grease and refitting the squeak was gone but I had this horrible clonk when going over rough road, pot holes but not over speed bumps. I had a mobile mechanics come out and take a look, all of the other suspension components, lower arms, anti roll bar bushes, drop links, struts and top mounts were fine. The mechanic told me my driveshafts were knackered and there was play up and down in them as well as an oil leak from the gearbox I had a look myself and found he was telling a lie. He took my money and ran because he didn't know what the issue was. Minea a 6 speed manual. It was that evening that I was speaking with a friend who said if it isn't the above it could well be brake pads. So I went outside with a screw driver and lightly pried the pad up in the carrier DONK, pried it down DONK. There's your issue. There was around 5-6mm movement of each pad in the carrier. Headed down to euro car parts the next day and bought a set of pagid pads. (175mm) Fitted them in myself and they are a snug fit. No movement up and down or back and forth. One happy man. The pads I removed were brembo. They didn't have any of the plates fitted to the rear of the pad, the pagid do and this stops the slack on the pad thus solving this issue. Very simple fix to a very annoying problem. I hope this helps you all. Don't buy brembo pads buy OEM (TRW) or Pagid. Have a good weekend 😁

Hi, This can make a great job, without without an ugly smashed slice of pudding: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284605363473?_skw=fine+line+painting+pen&itmmeta=01J88QCN0M6NSFMVR2YAE0QWNT&hash=item4243cd3511:g:RGoAAOSw1B9hlGup&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlbzCYGub7oa2pdIvWd7HhND2xW15Flf64gTwJjgh8jdZCyHjMCNtYhLd6HzrVmYbpmZ%2F2ckyUeAhd1uPJdxt2MTL4Kkom54xqCQ3EcvqItptEFj3DU6pS2svHQIwmmYv7ENVWa5y9s2Z%2FLRVda3zOogftfzQSOC80CPfXws4%2B6eqY8ovIcC2KWrEeke5VGT2KOZyZfIYa6DsYSRbcNuVT70E5BqdqDkUq491MUa9wS9WnXc6Sbcu6Foehob5Fevv7kl4kzCAGj7%2BE%2B9Gpw8CaTZbQvmAgicipQKDYd5T0F4Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMsNCyl8Jk&edge=0 I bought a touch up pen corresponding to my paint code, to get the right colour and then used this tool to refill very fine stone chips on my bonnet. Then made 2nd and 3rd layers with clear coat. It's hard to see where they were now.

Which front and rear springs were fitted in the factory depends on the car's build codes. For example, build codes G03+L18 would mean the front springs have OEM part number 6Q0411105S and build codes 1JB+0YB would mean the rear springs have OEM part number 6Q0511115AC. As you can see in the charts below, the Fabia MK2 with build codes G03 and 1JB can have one of seven front springs and one of four rear springs. Fabia MK2 front coil spring G03=heavy duty suspension/increased ride height 1 6Q0411105Q Front coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark red blue L16 1 6Q0411105R Front coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks red blue L17 1 6Q0411105S Front coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks red blue L18 1 6Q0411105T Front coil spring 1 paint mark 4 colour strokes red blue L19 1 6Q0411105AA Front coil spring 2 paint marks 1 paint mark red blue L20 1 6Q0411105AB Front coil spring 2 paint marks 2 paint marks red blue L21 1 6Q0411105BD Front coil spring 2 paint marks 2 paint marks red brown L33 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/697/4/411/411011 Fabia MK2 rear coil spring 1JB-heavy duty suspension/increased ride height 1 6Q0511115AH Rear coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks 1 paint mark orange blue yellow 0YA 1 6Q0511115AC Rear coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks 1 paint mark orange blue yellow 0YB 1 6Q0511115AD Rear coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks 2 paint marks orange blue yellow 0YC 1 6Q0511115AE Rear coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks 1 paint mark orange blue green 0YD https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/697/5/511/511010 Fabia MK2 front coil spring G03=heavy duty suspension/increased ride height 6Q0411105Q https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105q 6Q0411105R https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105r 6Q0411105S https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105s 6Q0411105T https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105t 6Q0411105AA https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105aa 6Q0411105AB https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0411105ab Fabia MK2 rear coil spring 1JB-heavy duty suspension/increased ride height 6Q0511115AH https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0511115ah 6Q0511115AC https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0511115ac 6Q0511115AD https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/6q0511115ad

How old is your battery? If you have a volt meter time to test it out.

Ok,Will do so

502 00 is the VW Group spec that is correct for your engine. If you buy something that meets that spec, no other details need to be considered.

hi i used these and where excellent https://www.satnavishop.co.uk/seat-vw-skoda-media-system-rns510-navigation-sat-nav-map-update-disc-2021-v17-318-p.asp

Larger wheels mean lower profile tyres which will give a harsher ride - so only do it if cosmetic appearances matter a lot to you.

A treat to myself after a wonderfully chilled out week on the Isle of Arran. Weather has been superb.

As above early built models come with it as standard, our arrived yesterday and had it (SE-L) Give the dealers a call and ask for stock cars if possible

It prevents closure if key is too close and also puts car on guard. So you don't need close car from remote or touch kessy handle after lid closed. 5Q0959107M/Q/T rear lid module + button 3G0959832AWHS

I've installed Easy Close, really nice feature.

A slightly inside out approach, although it was a glorious sunset!

Mine, and it appears all early models, have predictive, adaptive cruise as standard. Mine had it listed on the order form as an extra but at zero cost.

Hi all, I had my windscreen replaced some months ago by my local dealer. Everything went well, except... I didn't noticed they had broken (and glued to hide their mistake 🤬) the retainer for park tickets! Since, I was not able to prove this several months later, I've bought a new one to replace it on my own. A good opportunity to make a tutorial. P/N : 3V0 867 333 - 0.72€ First of all, wash your hands before starting to avoid dirty finger prints on the trim panel, especially if you have light grey or 'ivory' interior, To remove the A-pillar trim panel, use a large and flat lever (a wooden spatula should be ok too ). Insert it on the upper part between the door seal and the trim panel, so that you can push approximately the center part of the panel on the rear side to unclip it: Then repeat this at middle height of the trim panel to keep on uncliping the trim panel. In red circles below, the 2 clips once the trim panel is uncliped. Now, you just need to pull the trim panel upward to remove it completely. Once this is done, if you have a sun roof, start uncliping the water drain hose of the sunroof (red circle), to get a better access to the spreader rivet which fixes the park tickets retainer (both in blue rectangle): Then you just need to pull the spreader rivet head (if necessary, use a small fork ;)): Now put the brand new park tickets retainer in place and press the spreader rivet head to fix the retainer. You can now start reinstalling the A-pillar trim panel. Be sure to engage correctly the lower outer corner in the door seal and the lower inner edge in the dashboard: Then get out of the car and stand along the A-pillar and adjust the trim panel height, looking thru the windscreen: Check the lower clip is in front of the slot in the A-pillar. Do the same for the upper clip Then just press firmly the trim panel, starting with the lower clip. If necessary, don't hesitate: A firm hit with your closed fist 😁! Press the trim panel at the upper side to completely clip it. You may then have to make some slight adjustments to get a nice positionning (no bump, no dent under your fingers, when sliding your hand along the trim panel). Done! 😎

So what did I buy? As a list of priorities I considered: -Space, either a decent hatch or estate -Nice interior with Android Auto and other toys -Minimum 250bhp petrol -Handle reasonably well in stock form -Reasonable costs to run and service -Low mileage (40k max) -Budget around £20k I considered all sorts, on my list was: BMW 330i F series estates Audi A4 Avants Jaguar XE R-Sport P250 Mercedes C300 estate Mercedes C43 AMG estate The car had to be either a hatch or estate, so the Jaguar was out unfortunately. It had to be interesting and relatively rare (to me) so that was the Audi out. I wanted low mileage (under 40k is possible) so the BMW was out as I couldnt find anything near this and the G series was just too pricey. It had to handle well too, which removed the C300 from the equation. Every review said it goes well in a straight line but not around corners. The C43 was left, but finding a non modified, low mileage example in estate format for under £20k was impossible. Back to the drawing board. I was browsing Autotrader and saw it! After some maths and reading reviews, I knew I'd found my next car... Late 2018 Skoda Superb Sportline. Moon White metallic, 272bhp, AWD Haldex based system, heated front seats, sunroof and DCC suspension. It came from a Skoda dealer and was up for £22k. After some conversation they gave it a full service, Haldex service and some new centre caps.

Just follow your original plan and have ACC retrofitted. Next time don’t ask Skoda UK. If you’re having it retrofitted using genuine parts and it is properly coded, no dealer is going to ever notice if in for any warranty work.

Why not get the other driver to pay and not go through insurance...

G12, G12++, G12 evo or G13 is correct, not G40. I suspect G12++ or G13 is used. Why do you need to top it up? Don't use tap water, either. . Bret

Soon I'll pick up some Bilstein B4 rear shocks and an uprated rear ARB which should firm up the rear end.

So, a friend offered me his alloys, recently refurbished and with 4 brand new Michelin PS4's for £800... I said yes. Genuine Golf Pretoria's. I bought some ST-DZX 12mm hubcentric spacers for the rear and I really like the look. Many thanks to @vrs'burks for the recommendation! The car feels a bit more sprightly on them, I guess because of the new tyres and because they are a bit lighter than the Extremes. I do also know that they are a bit more fragile than stock however most of the roads I drive are reasonably good.

I should add that the car passed its MOT with no issues, and they changed the brake fluid at the same time. They made no mention of anything being problematic from the service either. I have a few things I want to add onto the existing list: -Leon Cupra DSG gearknob to replace the flaky chrome one. -Rear brake dust protectors. -Kufatec LED adaptors and stock VAG LED interior light units. -DSG inline thermostat. -Facelift rear lights and adaptors. Replace Topmount bolt - Done Brake fluid change - Done Front ball joints on both sides. Shorter bolts for rear ARB droplinks. Replacement rear ARB droplinks. Replacement B4 rear shocks. MK7 GTi rear ARB. I do feel like I never get to the bottom of the list! Anyone else feeling like cars hitting 100k are just money pits? 😏

Most pads have the anti rattle spring clip on the tips of the pads. They just need taking out and spring clips spreading out slighlty.

Merci beaucoup! Did this tonight. Took 10 mins total using a OEM wooden spatula as you described. Right hand drive cars don't have the sunroof drain tube to worry about. A very fine blade screwdriver lifted the spreader rivet head out, carefully keeping a finger on it, making sure not to lose it down the adjacent vents on top of the dashboard. Hardest bit for me was refitting the windscreen pillar cover without marking or damaging it. I found the best way, was to use the spatula to force the rear edge of the cover into the slot nearest the door and its rubber door seal, then guide the leading edge into the slot nearest the windscreen, then finally shove it forcefully downwards. The new ticket holder is very tight now.

Epilogue 😐 An Accident Repair Centre came out today and replaced the fuel filler flap assembly in pre-painted flash red. It took him ten minutes. He allegedly tried to polish out the minor paint chips. And said if we're not satisfied to call the office and they'll arrange paintwork. As we all know, fresh flash red is never going to match nine year old flash red. I can see the disparity - it's not awful, but it's there. I've said that if Mrs Gaz is not happy, she should call the ARC and tell them so. I am now in the dog house for not telling Mrs Gaz to not make an insurance claim, even though I did not know she was making one until it was already happening, and my understanding was I'd be getting some 'All Plastics' adhesive to glue the old flap back on with as a first step. Doodle do be doo 🙄 Gaz

i need to top-up my 2018 Kodiaq cooling system and am not clear which type to use. Is G40 the same as G40 Si-OAT? Is the colour important if so why. Grateful to receive forum members help and guidance.