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You have the best car on the forum in my book!

What is all this ? ( please bear in mind that I reside in a ditch in the middle of a bog......'n drive the very latest thing....a derv Octy 1 )

Remove the drain coc k completely, drain all the oil out, dont worry or confuse yourself about how much came out, your concern should be did all the oil come out, I shall assume you drained it on a level surface, if you are unsure add a little bit of fresh oil while the drain coc k is removed, it should dribble out within a couple of minutes. The refill to a little less than the specified capacity if its 3.5 litres then fill with 3 litres, wait a few minutes and check the dipstick, if all is well then it will be in the middle of the hatched area or a little less, you can then top up bit by bit to the correct level allowing time for the oil to drain down to the sump each time. If the dipstick level is implausible then investigate why before adding any more oil or running the engine/ Some other observations: The flexible pipes that come with the suction kits are coiled in manufacture and transport and will never become straight, as you push them down the twisty dipstick tube they curl up, you cannot feel when they hit the bottom and they either dont reach it or curl up wit the end sitting higher, each way you cannot drain the whole contents. I use copper brake and fuel pipes, or for my current vehicle which has an odd bore a copper hydraulic pipe, I have to manipulate and form it to get it all the way down and when I think it is there I pull it up and down tapping the bottom of the sup listening for the confirmation noise, then I drain until it makes the milkshake straw slurping noise. When I replace the filter I use the same rod to drain the bottom of the housing (mine is an inverted filter like most) poking it down the 2 galleries, I get an extra 0.5l out this way and usually end up refilling with the specified quantity although I do it by the dispstick readings as above. The dipstick when replaced should be pushed down firmly until you see and feel a positive click, if not then the level reading will be incorrect and you will add too much oil, it took me a couple of years before I realised. Finally only ever take notice of how much oil you have added after being sure that you have fully drained the sump disregard how much you "think" you have drained out, it is irrelevant, use the dipstick for getting the final precise level after confirming that its indication is plausible with regard to how much oil you have put in.

Thankfully we’re all different and different things matter to different people. A gentle reminder gentlemen, the site rules and general summary: be nice. Points can be made, respectfully. otherwise I have to spend time in my life sorting out and reading pages and pages of … well you get the idea not many days left for any of us, no point wasting words. tap pint glasses, move forward please.

Scenic Comfort collected. Range showing 192 miles with 3/4 battery showing full. Tyre pressures set to my preference ie higher and we will see where the range settles down to. Dealer mention one of their fleet Megane etech has shown over 300 miles guessed range. As I mentioned I agreed a price much closer to £30k than £40K ie just over £400 a month on PCP. Image attached.... Good video. Well done Polestar 2 but it is a saloon rather than a SUV which most people seem to want. 322 miles at 70 mph and in rain. Whilst this long range version ie 92 kw h version has an RRP of £41k it can be had for much less than that. Q6, more than twice the price highlighted VAG Group issues, wish they had the Skoda Enyak on the test, either battery size. With proper set up and safer driving ie tyres pumped up a bit more and cruising a little slower, as the French do ie drive a little slower in the rain, say 65, they could have gone much further but then they would have gone even deeper into the night getting these cars to run out of charge.

I got 'Car Scanner' which works - and I was able to clear the fault - but it was a bit if a struggle to make it show the fault. I had to have the engine running then it showed up straight away. Thanks again.

Just as a point of reference, as things I have no intention of buying a new car in the next 20 or 30 years of my life so technically most of this bull is irrelevant to me unless in that time they try forcing all ICE vehicles on the preloved market off the road by one devious measure or another. Any opinion is entirely hypothetical

16" Alaris fitted with 205/55/16 Michelin cross climate tyres. Certainly not as aesthetically pleasing as the stock 18"s with Good Year tyres, but they definitely help smooth the ride over our pockmarked and scarred roads ! Despite the quite blocky pattern, the tyres are at least as quiet as the GY Eagle F1's if not a bit better, (but is apples to oranges considering the sidewall dfifference and summer to AS). Despite them being fresh and not scrubbed in, still gave a good deal of confidence in the damp and felt very sure footed.

This VRS has been sold - to an enthusiast

That is what I was saying, by 2030 it is expected that UK will ban all sales of new pure ICE vehicles, so will have to be some form of electric, 🙄

The charging speed is not either or. This is often not understood by people without EV ownership experience, after all, petrol pumps dispense at 1 speed. Slow charging is cheaper, that will incentivises people to use slow charging when speed isn't needed (eg. overnight, workplace). Win-win for both grid carbon emission and individual's pocket. When charging speed is needed, for example whilst on the road, then just pay higher cost to get the speed. For vast majority of people, needing to charge quickly whilst on the road will be a tiny percent of their overall miles. For me, it has been less than 7% across 2 vehicles. But I admit I do more day trips than long road trips away..... accommodation are expensive. That video is from a long time youtuber that has an agenda, he has never said a good thing about the CCP government. Just like people brand Robert Llewellyn based on his always positive EV outlook and not showing the full picture. I wouldn't expect anything else from that particular youtube channel. So be careful about that channel and count on them not showing the full picture to fit their narrative. Note, I'm not rubbishing your own post. I'm only pointing out limitation of that particular youtube channel from my previous experiences on multiple different issues. And when you go down this youtube algo rabbit hole, many more will appear. The situation on the ground is vastly different to what's been reported by those channels.

Glad u got the job done, but I find it way easier to remove the bumper than to fab around squeezing into various panels n tight spaces. There is no need or requirement to remove the radar or the bonnet release lever. Not long ago I dremeled out the opening properly - from the holes I had originally to fully open.

Well, Expatman, so sorry to see you 'go' - and it says a lot that it took such a long while for you to actually get round to it! Your insightful Yeti comments, help and tips will be missed. I am sure that you will have the sincere thanks of all members of the UK16"SpecialBuildClub for helping to lead the (brief) rebellion against rubber bands. Enjoy your Countryman but, as Paul52 said, don't be a stranger here, among the Yetis!

.. and the other way to do this would be to replace with an ESP / Arduino controlled fan. like this: https://www.makershop.de/sonstiges/thermostat-relais/

I need to remove mine to make a better job of fitting my rear camera. I'll be removing the whole panel. It looks easy enough, and trying just the clips at the top may be possible, but I'd be worried about breaking clips.

Light up green but then Amber when selecting each position.

Not to resurrect an old thread but did this today. I found a brand new Stanley blade worked to cut out the plastic piece out completely. I didn't want plastic bits falling down in front of the air con condenser and it made sense to open it up completely like the other side. I did it without even removing the grill, just squeezed a flexy lead with a T25 bit on between the slam panel and the black plastic upper, bit of a sod but worked. The central bolt was a **** but I didnt want to remove the radar as I know its very sensitive to calibration. Removing the bonnet handle is very easy, pop a little clip out of the back and it just lifts off. I had done this basic mod on my mk3 Octavia VRS with zero issues in 2 years. On the Superb, there is even more of a rise up and over for airflow into the airbox so doubt there would be any issue short of submerging the car through a flood or river. Ive only cut out the central part of the upper intake, I have each side to do still and remove the snow grate.

Hopefully that has sorted things, now you have the reader you can check for any error code returns, I think it's a good idea to record the scan then delete any and all error codes every time. Each scan tool or scan tool company programs have their faults and seem to find odd different things to report so you aren't sure if it's the car or the scan tool having a brain-fart but if they delete and don't return or they're not serious or invasive you can generally forget them, especially on a 19 year old car and computer systems. Depends on traffic of course but motorways or dual-carriageways are better for a car to maintain a more constant speed and less gear changes (gears/clutch) and braking, better preparation for climbing or descending hills, steadier airflow if overheating might be an issue, often a better place to breakdown on or get to somewhere like a petrol station or other. To close/conclude this thread - which App did you get?

Ok quick update. My OBD2 reader arrived today and showed cylinder 3 misfire so fitted the new coil pack there. Hopefully this will solve the problem. 🤞 Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the help. I did ask a preliminary question on the Mk1 Fabia forum so will follow up there. My Bluetooth OBD2 reader came in the post today showing misfire cylinder 3. I fitted a new coil pack there so hopefully that's enough. Time will tell and it's definitely the A and B roads home. Motorway is horrible in the rain with a broken car!

I would not want to keep the engine oil in 'long time mister' if the engine was only firing up for the odd 5 minutes several times a day or a week & never getting up to heat if the car was a keeper. (or owned not leased.) Then there is the OPF. But if the engine runs seldom the Air Filter will be a look see and change as and when needs must. It is a real pity if a Battery can not have a 'Certification' on its State of Degradation, and an Engine its Mileage running logged.

Here is a direct link to EU commission official website again, stating what they plan to do: https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/ en/ip_22_6462 "The European Commission welcomes the agreement reached last night by the European Parliament and Council ensuring all new cars and vans registered in Europe will be zero-emission by 2035. " It's best for everyone if you stop listening to those fanning the flame of hate. At very least try to find correct information for yourself before typing away to have your last say.

It's mostly fake I think.

Atomic batteries and turbines......

3 genuine VAG spark plugs for my Fabia were £45. Got my local indie to fit them for a few quid. Mark

Our younger daughter and her husband hired a Peugeot 208 GT (badged as GT but probably GT-Line) when they were up in August, when it started up from cold, it made some serious "clacking" noises - probably flywheel/clutch related, I would not have expected that from a 6 month old 20,000mile car - but, the sound insulation worked so well that none of that noise was heard inside that car.

Agreed not asking for that purpose. It'd be something I'd be curious of in high mileage cars for sale.

The New UK Government 80 days in can not get it's crap together. Lets see how things go with a Winter of Discontent, a few thousand car factory workers striking, transport workers striking, the energy companies, utility, oil and gas have a wee flaky and Sir Jim Ratcliffe & Sir Ian Wood, Lord Bamford / family, and others throwing spanners in the works. Nissan & BMW / MINI and others will be telling the Liebour Government what they are wanting. Lets not forget that everything the UK needs that is not already here comes in mainly by sea or by air, and some maybe under the sea. Rule Britannia, Britannia Rules the waves, or thinks it can, but can not secure the seaways of the world, or even the seas around the British Isles. Or the interconnectors.

except the EU is targeting emissions reduction which would allow PHEVS remain in play post 2035 whereas the UK is targeting Zero Emissions which will mean PHEVs are also pushed out

From your parliament.uk link: "This will rise from 22% in 2024 to 80% by 2030 and 100% in 2035. " Currently not much different to EU. The original 2030 phase-out plan by Conservative government have a TBD requirement for electric-only miles. Vehicle can still be 100% powered from ICE bought at petrol station up to 2035. https://www.evexperts.co.uk/what-are-labours-plans-for-electric-cars/ "Restore the new petrol/diesel car phase-out date to 2030;" This doesn't sound like Labour plan to change this.

The rule is that if you make the manufacturer aware of the issue before the warranty period runs out then you are covered for the issue. I think the main assumption is for this exact situation. My advice would be to get it booked in with a good explanation of the issue recorded. That way you have given them the correct information they need to process the warranty claim to VW. Don't just book it in saying "please have a look".

TESLA and MG are exceeding the 22% First Registrations of zero emissions vehicles in the UK are they not? PS. Car manufacturers have been selling cars to themselves for decades then selling them as used. Manipulation sales figures and the market including used cars. VW group and others are money lenders and in the pyramid selling business.

Thanks for this. Actually my mech mate was going to be asked to do the valve removal next but he seems to be off grid (maybe he expected my call!). Fill capacity is given as 3.5 litres. I renewed the filter when I first refilled the motor. I haven't touched it since ; without the handbook to hand I seem to remember that it accounts for about half a litre. As for Mr Sealey's device I know what I pushed into the hole came out entirely. I've used it a few times with success until now.

If it's the original battery in a 2013 car I'd say its served very well and deserves retirement. To have lasted more than 10 years the battery has done very well and a new one will cost you less than a couple of hours of a technician's time (so to my mind it's a cheap diagnostic test) with the reassurance of knowing you've got a reliable battery for the next few years. If you do fit a new battery bear in mind that sometimes the warning lights still show for the first couple of miles before extinguishing as the electronics rest themselves. (I'm not an expert but have read A LOT of advice on this forum over the years so I'm just repeating it back).

Whatever you've got, I hope it gives you at least half as much pleasure as your Yetis obviously have. As you implied, the race to conformity and blandness means there's not much of a choice out there; now in my early 70s I'm wondering whether I can keep my 11 year old Yeti until age, infirmity or death make driving no longer possible. That's how much I hate changing cars. But, reading it back, none of those three options appeal 🙂. So I keep reading post of what people are moving to and the posts why they should have chosen something else, get more and more confused and decide to keep the Yeti a bit longer.... I recognised your comment about most things are "set and forget". My Yeti has park assist - push a button and it parallel parks for you. Except you have to think ahead to use it and I don't think anythng is foolproof so I've used it maybe half a dozen times, back in the early days and usually just to show off to friends. Other than wind the windows up and down and change the wireless everything else stays pretty much the same month to month. Enjoy the new car. And don't forget the Yeti was a car where the surprises just kept coming - see the section "I didn't know the Yeti did that..." I think I was still finding new features years into ownership - like the little lever in the console box. Don't be a stranger to the forum, but understand that as you are no longer a Yeti owner you'll have to sit att he back in the cheap seats - it looks like Graham has put his coat on one to reserve it for you. And I'll also be interested to hear your thoughts on the Mini once you've settled to it.

No Idea although there are 26 trains and 7 coaches a day from London to Penzance which may help to extrapolate demand for the journey ;o)

Wow, I never realised that link would also work, that is even quicker, thanks, I've learned something useful today 👍 I just that thought it was an advert saying that it came from YouTube.

No, your Niro is a full Hybrid like this Honda Jazz. How is this difficult to understand??

If you feel it is too difficult or too much hassle to remove the trim. You can buy stick-on transparent clips on ebay for a coupl e of quid.

Thanks. Appreciate your help. I do have a full toolkit at home but since I'm on holiday it does make diagnosing the fault a bit tricky. Things like my test lamp and multimeter are all back home. Infuriatingly the check engine light has turned off and the fault with it. But it's not likely to have properly gone - I would like to resolve before the motorway journey home on Friday. Conking out on the motorway is never ideal.

Thankyiu for any help given

I wouldn't be impressed with a professional not coding a new battery. Even if the same battery type and Ah you should change the battery serial number to reset the BMS. Hopefully what I've heard is true then and the BMS will adapt over time to the new battery. But still I'd expect a professional establishment to do it by the book.

I collected my Octavia Vrs tsi a couple weeks ago and love it!

Nice, dry and not too hot. Perfect opertunity to get the car done... Exterior- ✅Rinsed ✅Snowfoamed ✅Rinsed ✅Washed ✅Fallout remover ✅Rinsed ✅Washed ✅Rinsed ✅Dried ✅Machine Polished ✅ Paint Sealant Treatment All redone in time for the impending Scottish, never ending winter... Interior- ✅Vacuumed ✅Rubber mats washed ✅Cleaned ✅Glass cleaned ✅Fresh air freshener

Bonnet latch switch.

Do you mean the first and second column: Minor increase in fuel economy at the expense of a minor decrease in comfort

😍 lovely

For those interested. Had the four 16" Octavia wheels with Falken 215.60.16 tyres fitted today. Total excercise cost me £740. Very happy with outcome.... Better ride & much less chance of kerbing the alloys. Plenty clearance between front caliper & inside of wheel. Replacement tyres in future at 100 quid rather than 200.

Hello all, Just before lockdown, I picked purchased a 2016 Superb L&K 280 from Arnold Clark. It's a much needed size upgrade on our 2009 Fiesta (part exchanged) and is our new family barge - mostly for short trips but occasionally for longer ones (hence why it's not a diesel). The car had covered 40,000 miles and had a very patchy service history. But it did have the spec I wanted plus it was cheap enough to bring it (just) into budget. Plus as my wife's car / the family car it's good if it's had some good use already - so I'm not too precious about it. My plan for the car is to tidy it up a little and to give it some much needed TLC - it's only ever been serviced twice as far as I can see... Collection day: My wife's bear immediately placed (don't ask): Child seats installed (hence the need for a big car!): Dash cam installed (and hard wired into fuse box): Engine bay (with plastic cover temporarily removed): EA888 engine code: Evidence of patchy service history (as well as a few other stickers) removed from drivers door frame: Dodgy wiring for an old dash-cam on the drivers side removed (yes that is a cigarette lighter! ) : MIB 2 unit removed (to be sent off for re-programming as MIB 2.5): New Columbus 9.2" screen during testing (hasn't arrived yet - thanks to pab567 ) The next job is to replace the oil on the Haldex pump and clean the filter myself (fairly sure that it's never been done) and to replace the DSG gearbox oil (again, I'm fairly sure this hasn't been done but I may get a garage to do it once lockdown has lifted). I sourced the boot liner second-hand for circa £5 on eBay, which I'm delighted with as it's like new: Interior shot: The steering wheel has a large imprint of where the steering wheel controls were, but if you can overlook that, it does mean that the rest of the wheel is like new (as it's barely been used). I've also disabled KESSY using VCDS, which is much better for peace of mind and isn't too annoying for daily use. More to come - thanks for looking. Chris

Can't believe it took me a year to notice... after the crash repair there was no L&K emblem / badge on the left hand side of the car. Carefully aligned using my phone as a measurement point to the bonnet (good enough for me - I can't be bothered to measure it properly!) Now sorted 😁