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No faults logged in engine ECU. Reassuring, I guess; should have thought of that myself, but grateful for the suggestion. It did behave perfectly on both commutes today. I tried to recreate the slow-moving traffic queue by going the same way at the same time, but of course the traffic was flowing sweetly for once. 😆 Big test tomorrow, Bassenthwaite or bust... sounds a bit like a film title.

The climate control mechanism started making noise. I removed the top cover of the speaker, made a tool from a cheap endoscope and a Cilict Bang tube, lubricated the white mechanisms with silicone grease. Now the noise is gone.

@wyx087 The Price Cap is ridiculous. The many pay loads for energy capped at some random figure that OFGEM sets, while you me and Patrick McGee can get cheapo electric to balance the grid. OFGEM are a joke, but not a funny one. A Regulator that does not regulate. Not fit for purpose. The National Grid. The not fit for purpose National Grid not Nationally Owned. Now we have GB Energy coming. To finance who knows what with Public Money that will result in no cheaper energy for the General Public. ............... The crazy crazy thing is the payments to Wind Farms / Turbine owners to stop generating energy because the National Grid does not require it and locals to wind farms object to Battery Storage that could have that electricity from local transmissions. Public facilities like Leisure Centres, Swimming Pools, Libraries closed because of the cost of energy while there are the likes of Baron Nicol Stephen and business partners, Sam Cams family & many others making even more money not generating electricity.

I'll be about The Wirral tomorrow so wave as you go past

Dave takes it on spouts a lot of nonsense half the time. AT first I thought he was quite good but the more I watched the more I realised he was often spouting his own opinions which weren't always accurate.

Does anyone know why that advice of putting the new ones on the rear is given ? I would rotate the tyres earlier so all 4 need replacing at the same time but if the fronts are worn out and the rears are ok, just put the new pair on the front and replace the rears whenever they wear out.

Whatever the automatic gearbox in place I always put it in neutral if I'm stopped for any length of time. In D the car is still pulling forward and putting pressure on components. I guess arguably changing from D to N also wears components but you have choose one way or another. But I'e never tried shifting whilst moving. I've never had an issue with braking to stop with an auto.

Those 5" would be the difference between ooh! and aah! when fitting inside my garage.

New Skoda Elroq prices, specs etc Configurator from today Order books open 18 October To allow owners to perfectly tailor the new Elroq to their specific requirements, Škoda offers a broad range of options. These include five different alloy wheels, two interior Design Selections and stand-alone equipment such as a heat pump, dynamic chassis control and an electrically retractable tow bar. Customers can also choose from a range of option packs that bundle a selection of commonly chosen features into a single item. Elroq SE 50 55kWh (52kWh net) £31,500 Elroq SE L 60 63kWh (59kWh net) £33,350 Elroq Edition 60 63kWh (59kWh net) £34,450 Elroq Edition 85 82kWh (77kWh net) £38,650 Elroq SportLine 60 63kWh (59kWh net) £37,400 Elroq SportLine 85 82kWh (77kWh net) £41,600 Options : paint £680 or £1065 Wheels (bigger or different) from £595 Winter pack £600 heated front & rear seats, heated windscreen, tri zone climate Maxx pack £5100 park assist, tri zone climate, electric front seats, lumbar and massaging, head up, area view, canton sound, variable boot floor, rear sun blinds, electric heated mirrors with spot logo, matrix headlights, LED lights, dynamic range control, Corning lights, electric boot, boot nets, rear side airbags Plus package £1950 matrix headlights, cornering lights, dynamic lights Advance package £4150 most of what is in Maxx (not park assist or tri zone) Elroq SE (from £31,500) SE 50 is fitted with a 55kWh (52kWh net) battery, and is capable of more than 230 miles of WLTP range. The entry point to the new Elroq range comes with an exceptional high level of standard equipment. Among the many highlights are 19-inch Proteus silver alloy wheels, LED headlights and LED rear lights. Inside, the SE features Škoda’s striking Loft design selection that comes with fabric and artificial leather upholstery, grey headlining and a two-spoke leather multifunction steering wheel. Drivers benefit from a large 13-inch touchscreen display, digital cockpit and single-zone climate control as standard. The SE also offers a generous quota of convenience and safety systems as standard, including a rear-view camera with rear parking sensors, traffic sign recognition and blind spot detection. Elroq SE L (from £33,350) SE L 60 models come with a larger 63kWh (59kWh net) battery as standard, which has a WLTP range of more than 250 miles on a full charge. It also offers drivers more equipment, including a two-spoke leather heated multifunction steering wheel with paddles for recuperation selection, heated front seats, satellite navigation and Škoda Connect - Infotainment Online and Remote Access (three years). Customers opting for the SE L also benefit from dual zone climate control, drive mode select, front parking sensors and preparation for a tow bar. As with the SE model, the SE L also comes with a six-metre, 32A Type 2 charging cable as standard, along with rapid charging capability of up to 145kW when connected to a suitable DC rapid charger. Elroq Edition (from £34,450) The Elroq Edition model comes with two battery options; 60 and 85; a 63kWh (59kWh net) pack that offers more than 250 miles of WLTP range, and a larger 82kWh (77kWh net) pack that can deliver up to 360 miles on the WLTP cycle, respectively. Edition models build on the specification of the SE L and add 19-inch Regulus anthracite alloy wheels, unique dark chrome roof rails and window surround and privacy glass with acoustic side windows. Edition customers also benefit from travel assist plus, predictive adaptive cruise control with traffic jam assist, keyless entry, and wireless charging (15W) with cooling function. Elroq 85 models, which come with the larger 82kWh (77kWh net) battery, can also take advantage of 175kW DC rapid charging capability. Elroq SportLine (from £37,400) The flagship model of the Elroq range, SportLine comes with two battery options 60 and 85; a 63kWh (59kWh net) or 82kWh (77kWh net) battery pack with WLTP ranges of up to 258 miles and 355 miles respectively. SportLine models are distinguished by 20-inch Asterion black alloy wheels, matrix LED headlights, unique SportLine bumpers and gloss black roof rails, door mirrors and tailgate lettering. Inside, SportLine models come with a bespoke Design Selection that features microsuede and artificial leather upholstery, carbon effect decorative inserts, front sports seats and a black headlining. A three-spoke artificial leather heated sports multifunction steering wheel with paddles for recuperation level selection is also fitted as standard. Reflecting its sporting nature, the Elroq SportLine comes with progressive dynamic steering as standard (the 85 battery offers the addition of sports suspension as standard) while an electrically operated tailgate with kick activation and rear side airbags complete the specification. https://skodamedia.com/en-gb/releases/1527

Hi folks, after 5 years and nearly 100,000 miles of Superb ownership, with the odo less than 1k short 200k, I've decided to move away from the beautiful big bus and get something a little newer and less travelled. Which is kind of annoying me because I only had the timing belt and pump done about 4k ago, but other factors were in play. However, I'm only moving 'next door', as I've bought a 14plate octavia elegance estate 😄, with the dsg box and 81k on it, really good spec. Looking forward to the laziness of the auto box, but I'll miss the power of the 170 horses. Just got to sell the big yin now...not looking forward to that. Anyone looking to buy?😁

my point was that it was massively inconvenient that my diesel VW didn't fill itself up while I was asleep in the same way that my Skoda does. So whereas my Skoda took about 5 seconds to lug in, the VW needed a diversion off the main road and then to a filling station and then I had to get back to the route I was on. That took over 20 minutes. As for your friend's Tesla experience I am sure that he knows that if the car preheats the battery and he charges only when down to around 15% then he will see the fastest charge rates. Just like filling up a jug of water, when it's emoty you fill up really fast but as it gets fuller you tend to slow up.

I believe this to be the case with my current car for sure ................. as mentioned, semi auto cvt I can have my foot lightly on the brake and feel the car still trying to pull forward. This is why I nudge mine into neutral as no need then to hold the brake on if not on an incline, and no need to use the Auto Brake every time either. And therefore the brake lights are not on all the while the vehicle is stopped at lights or stuck in a traffic queue, which lets face it, can be a lot of the time just lately.

As promised, longer description of process and materials used to fix the issue. Items purchased: TOPDON Artilink400 OBD2 Code Reader - Source: Amazon.co.uk Price: Approx. £29 with voucher 3 X Bosch glow plugs for Skoda Superb Mk3 2.0 TDI - Source: Halfords.co.uk Price: Approx. £11 each with discount Shall 11-Piece 3/8" Torque Wrench Set, (5-60Nm) - Source: Amazon.co.uk Price: Approx. £28 with voucher febi bilstein 26712 Grease for fuel injectors / glow plugs, pack of one - Source: Amazon.co.uk Price: Approx. £12 Penetrating release spray - Source: Halfords.co.uk Price: Approx. £3.99 Additional items used (already owned): Ratchet kit 3/8DR 6PT Deep Socket 10mm (this is the socket for glow plugs 1,2, & 4) Long nosed pliers Compressed air pump (we have one for blowing up balloons for parties but with a tube attached, this works just fine for blowing away any dust and debris) Multimeter Small paper cone made from a rolled up utility company letter OBD2 reader, deep 10mm socket, Torque Wrench, ratchet set, compressed air machine, penetrating spray and tube, old removed glow plugs, glow plug grease, paper cone, long nosed pliers Youtube video tutorials followed: Skoda Superb Mk3 2.0 Glow Plug Replacement by Rob Camper - "youtu.be/vE6rQomb2Nk?si=C94e-Z0Sdl9v_jan" Skoda Superb 3 glow plugs change by Golf Wagen - "youtu.be/5BVmd3aORDk?si=PXq30STYC56RE0YW" Replacing Glow Plugs - Audi/VW/SEAT/Skoda 1.6TDI CAYC Engine Code - Audi A3 8P by Auto Knight - "youtu.be/cGh3dXYoC4w?si=x3i61M4kpSaIVIS4" All props to these guys, I've taken images below from their videos too Step 1 - diagnosing the fault - With ignition OFF, I Plugged in ODB2 reader. - The connection is under the drawer to the right of the steering wheel. Mine is a purple colour. - Turned on ignition (but not starting car), this will allow the OBD2 reader to access the onboard computer and read faults. - Fault shown was "P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug circuit/open. " - this means that the first of the glow plugs has an error. location of the OBD2 connector Step 2 - understanding the job - The car has 4 glow plugs - They run from left to right on the top of the engine, under the engine cover, and each has an electric connector attached to the top of it. - Plugs 1, 2, and 4 are normal glow plugs with no sensors and can be bought for between £10 and £17 each. They are removed with a 10mm deep socket - Plug 3 is a special plug with a pressure sensor. These cost a lot more. I've seen them from between £150 - £250. - As there is no fault with plug 3, I decided NOT to replace that one, but as the others were relatively cheap and were coming to the end of their lives I decided to replace all of the others (1,2 and 4) still image showing location of the 4 glow plugs with electric connectors attached Step 3 - prepping for removal - Took the car for a short journey to get the engine warm, returned home and parked where it would stay over night. - With gloves on (as the engine was now hot), popped the bonnet and removed the engine cover. - Unclipped the black plastic holders holding down the wires (you can see these rectangular clips above the coloured circles in the picture above). This just gives you a bit more slack on the wires to unplug them. - Using the long nosed pliers, unplugged the electric connectors from plugs 1, 2 and 4 - As you can see from the photo above, plug 1 is down behind some pipes and wires and is the most tricky to get at, so had to be patient and ensure I didn't damage anything with the pliers. - The electric connectors take some pulling to disconnect Glow plug electrical connector unplugged - when connectors were off, I used the compressed air machine with a tube to blow all dirt and debris out of the recesses where the glow plugs were (see image below). I spent some time on this to ensure there was no loose dirt or debris in these recesses. - I then soaked the plugs in the recesses with penetrating release spray and left them for a couple of hours. - I went back and reapplied the penetrating release spray after 2-3 hours, left the connectors off, but put the engine cover back on, closed the bonnet and left them to sit overnight in the release spray. - In the morning I popped the bonnet, removed the engine cover and reconnected the 3 electric connectors and the rectangular wire clips. Each of the connectors needs to be pushed down firmly onto the glow plug, and there is a definite "click" that can be felt as the connector latches onto the plug. Make sure they are down firm and you feel this "click" plug in recess Step 4 - plug removal - Took car for a drive to get the engine and plugs hot. - Returned and parked, turned off engine, opened bonnet, removed engine cover. - Unplugged electrical connectors from plugs 1,2, & 4 as above - Reapplied release spray to glow plugs - Used a ratchet with a long vertical bar and the deep 10mm socket shown below. - As MChris has mentioned above, I used a "gently as you go" method rather than a sharp turn. Gently applying pressure in a counter clockwise motion and gradually increasing pressure but not by a lot. With all of the steps above and this gentle pressure the plugs came straight out without any issue. Step 5 - new plugs prep and install - Using my Multimeter I tested the old plugs. (Watch Auto Knight's video listed above on how to do this). The plug from cylinder 1 definitely had an issue. - I tested all of the 3 new plugs I was putting in to ensure there was no problem before I put them in. - I then Applied febi bilstein 26712 Grease for fuel injectors / glow plugs to the new plugs around the thread and body but not the glow end, and not above the thread. (Again. watch Auto Knight's video listed above on for this) - As I had applied grease I needed a way to ensure the grease would not pick up any dirt as I was sliding it in. To do this I made a rudimentary paper cone (shown below) from a letter, and secured it with tape. I then cut the bottom of the cone so that the plugs easily passed through. - I positioned the paper cone into the recess of plug 1 (shown below) and then slid the greased glow plug in via the cone. This way, if the plug touches anything it touches clean paper and the grease doesn't pick up any dirt. - I repeated the above step for plugs 2 and 4, making sure I wiped any grease out of the cone between each plug going in. - Once all 3 plugs were in, I removed the cone and used the socket and vertical bar to initially gently hand screw the plugs in to ensure the threads were biting properly, and then used my Torque Wrench to tighten the plugs to 17 Nm. - I then replaced the electrical connectors, making sure they were pushed down firmly and the "click" was felt signalling the connectors latching to the plugs. - I reconnected the rectangular clips holding the wires, and replaced and sealed the engine cover. - With ignition OFF, I Plugged in ODB2 reader. - Turned on ignition (but not starting car), and read faults. - Cleared Fault "P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug circuit/open. " - Turned off ignition and removed OBD reader. Took the car for a good run and all fine, warning light has gone and not reappeared. Hope the above helps.

Thanks for the input. Checking Google it seems to be highlighting carbon build up on the inlet valves as the main culprit. I’ve purchased some arch oil snake oil and will see if that will make a difference.

Thanks all for your input - Mobile Mechanic came out and initially said it needed a new started/rebuilt. Before deciding to take it away he plugged in his diagnostic tool and clear all historical errors, then it started. I mean c'mon!! £80. Hope that helps someone in the future. Symptom: Car doesn't even attempt to start (turn over), no errors on dash etc Resolution: Connect diagnostic tool and clear any errors. Car starts

I disconnceted the connector Pete posted above "036103464AH" and now my steering wheel is working. I bought a new 036103464AH and replaced with the old one. Now my steering wheel still works! Thank you so much Pete. Mechanics in my area had no other idea than chaning the power steering motor.

See here from Continental by example:- https://www.continental-tyres.co.uk/b2c/tyre-knowledge/mixing-tyres/#:~:text=The tyre industry recommends fitting,vehicle stability on slippery surfaces. It all seems crystal clear, until it goes on to muddy the waters by saying this may not apply to front wheel drive! Perhaps the advice should have been "fit new tyres on the primary driven axel, and in the case of a 50:50 power split then fit them on the rear"?

Salutations from the North.... Having got fed up of being shafted for nearly £400/year road tax, I've recently sold that millstone and discovered the joys of the 1.4tdi fabia with it's 70mpg and £0/year tax.... Kerchiiiing! 😉 And so here I am, hoping to learn all there is to learn about my wee Fab' and maybe impart a nugget of wisdom or two along the way, who knows!? J.

Four different pins used in the ECU connector, according to this. Many pirated sources of ETKA info are online, just google "online ETKA" and choose one.

As long as lecky is owned by private companies, regardless of their nationality, prices will remain high. It needs to be owned by the public so there is less demand for it to make so much profit, as long as it makes enough to cover operating costs and a modicum of profit to help pay for its replacement/renewal in a few years time should be all that is required.

I didn't think it was actully going to land here until March 25?

Wahayy, now you're talking! 😅 Could definitely tick most of my boxes. Still a Fiat though...🙄

You would hope so, but I suspect that it would also rise significantly as all forms of energy on the open market are linked to the equivalent energy value of oil is it not?

It's symptomatic of the short termism in western governments. they need to show return or improvement within a 4yr cycle so consideration of a 10-50yr cost is very rarely considered. For a politician better to get the road built now for nothing then to borrow £200M, even if it'll cost billions over decades. the long term is always someone elses problem.

Oddly the big story of the US Port strikes hardly getting any coverage. Suez revenues are pretty health despite the Yemen troubles. https://www.seatrade-maritime.com/shipping-finance/suez-canal-reports-10-year-revenues-at-50-9bn Higher oil prices will affect all modes of transport, except electric trucks I expect, which is becoming more of a thing. Soone cash is outlawed we will see more tax collected I suspect and be able to enjoy better services.

Don't bring it round my way, if the speed bumps can get my standard Superb to bottom out, you would get left high and dry in that for sure.

It's been about 3.5 years since I had it standard so can't really comment. All I remember is that the ride height is ridiculous on the Scala as stock, it is way too high and therefore it rolls a lot in the corners and nose dives under braking. Otherwise the little 1.0tsi 115 is a great engine, reliable, punchy and efficient. Mines done 42k miles since I bought it in March 2020, it's only ever had 99RON in it and still feels as good as ever. And in reality the Scala is a phenomenal family car for the money. Happy to answer any other questions if you have any.

Yes there is another menu with each software, i can check it later and take photos/video. And yes, my octavia is produced for European market (Finland).

Put the new ones on the back and swap the backs to the front.

@Graham Butcher I think if you really try you could imagine, and also think back to the Oil Crisis in the 1970,s, rationing, and fuel shortages since. Limits on fuel you could actually get. Yes the EV charging is very much a minefield that many have not the faintest of an inkling they are going to face with Charge Place Scotland and many of the 32 Council Areas in Scotland. There is really no comparison is there with liquid fuel though! We are talking about an infrastructure in Scotland that is less than fit for purpose and has held back Commercial Investment by many years. Business were having to compete with Free Charging at chargers owned by Councils, & owners getting grants to install chargers had to provide charging FREE for 2 years. (Some dodgy ones made sure the chargers were out of order to the public but still working for their vehicles...) UK Public use Filling stations are not Owned and Run by local councils like some EV chargers in Scotland and then Maintained or not & then Administered by a Commercial Business badly on behalf of a Government Agency and the Local Authority so really the General Public and for running things badly millions of public money goes to them.

@Edinyeti a Dacia Duster in only 5" longer than a Yeti.

Prices for used Yeti's are high, I part exchanged my 2017 Yeti and non Skoda dealer was happy to offer over £11k - and I still got a decent discount matching Carwow off the price of new car.

Sounds a bit sad but got all the dirt out of the badge. Used a paint brush and soapy water. These badges are really good quality. I've seen much newer cars go all faded and peeling.

Thanks all for your replies and support. I managed to drain the old fuel by disconnecting the fuel line to the high pressure fuel pump, then gave power to the fuel pump until the tank was empty. Disposed of the old fuel appropriately. The car still wouldn't start after putting in fresh fuel and drying the spark plugs, so I decided to just change the fouled spark plugs with new ones. Car is back to normal and runs great

If Iran has its way the price of oil will become almost unaffordable. UK government should have an excise variable rate so the excise and VAT is about a £1 a litre and world shock in supply from the Persian Gulf does not create a hike in diesel and petrol and therefore inflation too. Electricity prices should be as affected.

115bhp I'll have you know. 😆 Not sure I'm brave enough to take it to high revs just now. Supposed to be driving to Bassenthwaite ( ~280 miles) with 3 passengers on Thursday. If it plays up again between now and then I think they'd better take their own vehicle.

Things are changing. Time takes time. Filling up vehicles was not as simple as being made out just 30 years ago in many areas / countries of the UK. There used to be garages / filling stations with OPENING HOURS. There were places without SUPERMARKET FILLING STATIONS. Supermarket Filling stations without Out of Hours pay at pumps, there still are. There were the Likes of Green Shield Stamps back decades ago. I used Tesco Rewards, i used ASDA CRedit Card to get 2 pence a litre off, and used ASDA,s with LPG where i bought twice as many litres of LPG compared to if running petrol and ther LPG was 1/2 the price, 50 pence a litre compared to £1 for unleaded & then the 2 pence a litre off. LPG was widely available in Scotland and cheaper than south of the border in England. My dad used to pay a Monthly amount and he ran his Diesels which he had for going caravanning using Bunkered Fuel. The UK is not all about Cities, or England and what is common there, but there is rural mainland England as Scotland, Wales or Northern Ireland and also Islands.

Battery change on my last Fabia 3 I used ODBeleven app and an ODB adapter, it looked like the original battery from the factory. As it was the same type of battery, I just changed one digit in the serial number- If changing battery tech or capacity then you have to change those fields. ODBeleven app Control Units Adaptations Battery Adaptations Rated Battery capacity 59ah Battery Manufacturer JCB Battery Serial Number 11111111111 Battery Technology EFB Hope that helps?

Once your DPF has been replaced, and presumably 3 of the 4 garages checked the EGR valve, then your car should last for ages unless it has already done something like 150,000 miles ? So, some cheap (!) Ideas to try for you. I have always used Miller's Oil diesel additives in all the diesels I've owned / leased. Someone will come on here and say it's snake oil, but I've never had a DPF issue on the 30 of the 50 diesels I've owned that had one, so I disagree... I would recommend their Diesel Particulate Filter Cleaner & Regenerator (lowers temp for regen).Also, once a month if you have a half hour drive planned, leave the gearbox in a lower gear (or S rather than D in DSG). it you are a 'typical' Yeti driver, the 1.2 gives 42/44 mpg overall (I agree what most people say, as my 1.2s did that also). My other half averaged 58.3 on a 200 mile motorway drive last week in our TDI 4x4 DSG, but its normally about 50.

We have now sold the Fabia ,and my son has a different car now. Can we just thank the members who have helped us keep the car on the road. . If we get another Skoda ( I quite fancy the 4x4 petrol superb.) we I am sure be back in touch thanks again and look after yourselves

Since manuelin is in Ecuador I really doubt that East Yorkshire Retrofits did it!

On the Yeti, the standard 16" tyre sizes (205/55R16 and 215/60R16) will fit a 6.5Jx16 ET50 rim without rubbing. You can tell this by referring to the below chart, where the standard 17" tyre size (225/50R17) has an actual width of 233mm when fitted to the standard 7Jx17 ET45 rim. Actual inflated width of tyre (measured from sidewall to sidewall, at widest point) 205/55R16 fitted to 6.5J rim 214mm 215/60R16 fitted to 6.5J rim 221mm 225/50R17 fitted to 7J rim 233mm 235/55R17 fitted to 7J rim 239mm (oversize tyre size) The owner of the below Yeti managed to fit 235/55R17 to his standard 7Jx17 ET45 rims, so the standard 225/50R17 isn't even close to rubbing. There's going to be even more clearance with the narrower 205/55R16 and 215/60R16 tyre sizes fitted to a 6.5Jx16 ET50 rim. Top photo 225/50R17, Bottom photo 235/55R17 (SCUDO 7Jx17 ET45 alloy rims) However, if you're looking for a much cheaper tyre size than 215/60R16...205/70R15 could be the answer. For example, the below Yokohama All-Terrain tyre costs 47% more in the 215/60R16 tyre size compared to the 205/70R15 tyre size. At 70dB noise rating, this 205/70R15 is also slightly quieter than the 71dB noise rating of the slightly wider 215/60R16 tyre. Bear in mind that the 1.2TSI Yeti has small 280x22mm front brake discs, so 15" rims will easily clear the front brake calipers. Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 205/70R15 96H (Euro label E C 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b0s2481p148166/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_205_70_R15_96H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Yokohama Geolandar AT G015 215/60R16 95H (Euro label E C 71dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s111p164244/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_215_60_R16_95H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Alcar 9165 6Jx15 ET47 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Octavia MK2) (7.73kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=183006013861926000&rimCode=ALCAR9165 https://www.oponeo.pl/felga-stalowa/alcar-kfz-9165#24341785 Alcar 9915 6.5Jx16 ET50 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Octavia MK2) (8.35kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=182673411594523760&rimCode=ALCAR9915 https://www.oponeo.pl/felga-stalowa/alcar-kfz-9915#24341769 Vredestein Quatrac 5 205/70R15 96T (Euro label C C 69dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m138b0s7998p144823/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac5_Vredestein_Quatrac_5_205_70_R15_96T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_A_Noise%3A_69dB

Thanks for reporting back. VW don't make many parts, the battery included. As for it running out of power it's the same as having a 15 gallon tank with only half a litre of fuel in it and going on a journey, the further you go the more the likelihood of running out. You have covered my two car hobbyhorses, the great importance of the state of charge and health of the car's battery, particularly on modern cars with all their electronics and computer programs. They don't like a lower state of charge and can cause all sorts of issues, even before getting dash warning lights and messages and well before any engine starting issues. Battery state of charge has always been a basic requirement and something to check. Car batteries are the most oversold car part and particularly now with modern cars and drivers/owners and often prematurely replaced when they can often be successfully be recharged to give much more life by using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer with reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. Second is owners and professionals reading instructs like the car's Owner's Manual, particularly professionals who often think they already know something but have it wrong because of not checking. For one-touch window did you and/or the indie garage read the Owner's Manual for what might need resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the car's battery. Hopefully you are now fully sorted and the new battery properly 'coded' in (one auto-electrician was reported on here to have enter 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah (pretty bad the VW program allows this really). Even now you have a new battery I would still advise you if you are keeping the car long to some time later invest in an appropriate battery charger maintainer and when required (usually not very often) using it to do preventative recharges to extended the life of the present battery a long time and save all this hassle again. Just one example other units and providers are available. - Ring RSC900 - 900 Series 4A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer -https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Good luck.

Does the locking fuel cap/flap work?

Skoda mk1 1.4 8v mpi 2002 model nearly 650k on the chassis 560k on first engine the changed it because of a blown head gasket because the cost to repair it was nearly of an engine with 200k i still have the old engine and i will repair it and keep it after so many years no major problems just wear amazing car im so in love with it my dad wants to scrap it next year and i will buy it from him im not ready to give up on it

Thanks. It certainly makes cleaning the car a breeze. I use my RaceGlaze DI water for final rinse and can either just leave it to dry naturally without any water marks or use an EGO leaf blower with stubby attached to blow off any excess water. The Gyeon coating is extremely hydrophobic, so not much sticks.

At this point i felt the car was ready to scrape by on the MOT. I asked for a new set of tyres to be put on beforehand, These were the closest Firestones I could find to the release OEM tyres: The car passed with some advisories: I agree about the Macpherson bushes and rear springs. This will get done. Not so much about the 'defective exhaust mount' This bracket on the exhaust simply isn't used on the Octavia..: Corrosion on sills is also questionable, but there nonetheless: Rear spring: More to follow... I'm just getting started.

I found some freebies on the back seat, a brake servo pipe and dipstick tube: So i wasted no time fitting both, the tube that was on the car was in really bad state. I wonder how much of it ended up in the sump... Servo pipe was also replaced. This is what the old one looked like. I reckon someone damaged it when replacing the air filter..: This is all the effort I'm going to put into this build thread for now. If there's enough people wanting to see more and commenting I'll keep going...