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@lol-lol please remember there is plenty of the UK where nipping off for a 20 minute rapid charge is problematic or not an option. Winter or adverse weather times and roads closed by diversions and others requiring to do the same if there are rapid chargers actually near or working. But that is the 'Truth of EV driving still' for quite a lot of EV drivers and something potential ones will be thinking about. Range anxiety is not a myth for many even in October 2024.

Hello I just became an owner of a spanking new Octavia vRS mk 4.5 and I'd like to share my first impressions but before that a bit of a background story. Last year I was looking for a new car to replace my Ford Mondeo Titanium S from 2009. It served me well but it was time for something newer. I guess my criteria mostly were that the car had to be practical but also a bit sportier than the previous one. Initially I was looking at Cupra Leon Sportstourers (also estate) but I was eventually mesmerised by a velvet red Octavia RS mk4 liftback. I thought I got a pretty nice deal on it as it was just barely used (~3000 km), so no new car tax to pay for me anymore, and it had ton of extra equipment as well. I was super happy with it. Then in February the facelift was announced and I admit that I didn't think much of the RS facelift at that moment. I was definitely thinking that the front lights were cooler on my current RS, I mean the fog-lights were a separate unit and the front bumper was also much more aggressive and edgier. Also nothing really bothered me too much about the infotainment system. But....as time passed the design of the facelift had started growing on me and in addition some of the improvements here and there (a bit more power, newer infotainment system). And by July I managed to convince myself that I want the facelift RS, so I ordered one! It arrived at the end of September. However, by that time I still hadn't found a new owner for my mk4. I had some offers but nothing good enough yet so I asked the dealership to wait a bit and give me more time to sell my mk4. Then I finally found a buyer and told the dealership as well that I'm now ready to receive the new car. But I guess I jumped the gun there a bit as the deal to sell the old car hasn't been quite finalised yet. So that means that I'm in a unique position where I currently own a mk4 Octavia vRS and a brand new mk4.5 Octavia vRS and they are both velvet red! But it's a good opportunity to compare them. So finally, here are my thoughts on the differences: The specs Both of my cars have a ton of extra equipment but there are slight differences (just some quality of life extras really). I really liked the extra features on the old car so I mostly copied them when speccing the new car as well. But most notable ones: Both cars are liftbacks Both are velvet red mk4.5 has 20 extra horse power but cannot test it yet if I can actually feel the difference (still break-in period) Both have DCC, Adaptive Lane Assist Both have Suedia (leather) seats (as part of Challenge Plus package on the old mk4, separate option on mk4.5) Both have 19" wheels (Altair on mk4, Elias on mk4.5) Both have a Heads Up display Navigation was a separate option on mk4 but I think it's part of the base RS spec now. I couldn't spec preheating for mk4.5 in my region (wasn't available in the spec sheet and still isn't in the configurator) I added Canton sound system on the mk4.5 (yet to review it properly) Exterior The biggest difference between mk4 and mk4.5 is the front part of the car (as you've probably seen from pictures yourself). As I also mentioned above, it took some time for the new design to grow on me but I really like it now. The rear lights are also a bit different (the shape/light bar of the turning signal is now horistinal and straight, see picture). Also the stripes/trails within the rear lights seem to be illuminated (more). The design of the 19" wheels is different. I don't like the aero cover (or however you call it). I think the Elias wheels look much better without it so I removed the covers. However, beware that if you decide to remove the covers you need to purchase a set of centre caps and lug nut covers. Otherwise it's a bit ugly still. the vRS logo is different, I think the new one is better in the sense that you can actually understand that it says vRS (I remember one of my friends asking what VIRS means and the old logo can absolutely be misinterpreted that way) Door sill protectors have "Octavia" written on the, not vRS. Interior Interior design is mostly the same but there are more and less noticeable differences: The biggest difference (literally) is the size of the infotainment screen. It's 13" on the new one vs 10" on the old one. However, the larger screen size is in any way disturbing. The upper edge is still below the dashboard and isn't blocking the view in any way. Coupled with the upgraded infotainment system it's a really nice upgrade. Some of grey coloured pieces (door handle, the plastic around the gear shifter, rotating knobs on the steering wheel) is dull/matte whereis it was shiny on mk4. The design of the wireless charging pad/compartment has changed a bit and it feels like it's holding the phone a bit better in place. The icons on the physical buttons have changed a bit. Infotainment system/Virtual cockpit That's the big change on the inside and in short, the improvement is huge. The infotainment system is very responsive. The new style feels a bit more modern The digital instrument cluster is a more customisable as well (The right arrow on the steering wheel now switches between different display modes eg map, trip info, gear info (D, S, M), while the left one chooses between display style (with tacho and speedometer or without) No custom vRS animation on the instrument cluster when entering the car anymore, it's mostly black with SKODA fading in. 😞 The gear information (D, S1-S7 etc) can now be displayed with a huge font between the tacho and speedometer (vs being displayed in the bottom left corner on mk4). That's super awesome now. The normal gearbox mode (D) will still display only D and not D1-D7. The Adaptive Lane Assist button is now gone from the steering wheel but the option to switch to it from ACC is now hidden in the same menu (left upper button on the right side of the steering wheel). When I first saw that the button is missing I thought that they forgot to install it and actually had to double check that it's there. There's now always an indicator bar visible in the speedometer dial that shows how much range you have left to go, so now you can select something else to display in your speedometer dial. The physical button for selecting your driving modes now toggles through driving modes, that's nice! There's a ton of customisable shortcuts at the top and at the bottom of the screen (eg can set shortcuts for car, assists, lane assist, heated front windshield at the top; media, phone, navigation, android auto/carplay shortcuts at the bottom) The widgets on the infotainment screen are slightly less customisable but that doesn't really bother me: there's a couple of templates that you select from when creating pages/screens, previously you had more freedom here. I wish the HOME button was slightly bigger though. It was easier to press it on mk4 infotainment screen as it was actually a separate "button" on the left of the screen in mk4. Now it's an icon on the screen. The style of the integrated navigation system feels more modern but haven't used it that much as I'm more of an Android Auto user. Audio As mentioned, my new mk4.5 has Canton sound system. My initial reaction is that's it's not much of an improvement (still), let's see if I can figure out some good settings for it. I did have to check whether the subwoofer (squeezed into the spare wheel compartment) actually worked. Yeah, you can feel and here the vibration when you open the boot but not that much in the driver's seat. I do hope that the only result of the subwoofer won't be the body panels falling off in the back and that I can at least feel the bass when that's happening. There is an extra setting to adjust the subwoofer in the Sound menu. So in short, default settings seem a bit lacklustre but I still need to play around with settings before drawing a final conclusion. Some missing features/changes I've encountered some inconveniences on the new mk4.5 (not a deal breaker though) I think the biggest feature that's missing on the mk4.5 and that I found quite useful as well is the lack keyless lock/unlock on the rear doors. In other words, when you previously could unlock the car by just pulling the read door handles and it would unlock (and could also lock it using rear doors) then that's now gone. You have to take an extra step to touch the front door handle. Another annoyance that I found is that the speed limit warning is turned on each time you switch on the ignition. Unfortunately that's done so to comply with legislations (manual says so). However, Skoda did add a shortcut to disable it quickly (same button and place where you can disable Lane Assist). However, not all has been perfect! When I logged in with my Skoda account into the car and added myself as the main user, it wanted to load some settings which I assume were from the mk4. It did load my seat position but also a lot of icons appeared in the infotainment menu that were just loading (had the loading animation). Perhaps there's a more clever way to solve the issues but I eventually deleted and recreated my Skoda account. I took the car for a first proper drive over the weekend and had a yellow/amber "Emission control system fault" icon appear in the instrument cluster. No errors/warnings in the infotainment menu (status is fine there) as well and car drives fine as well. I plugged in my bluetooth OBD scanner to see what it comes up with and it reported fault codes P2080 (P2080 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1) and P2084 (P2080 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2). So now I'm taking it back to the dealership. I hope it's just an improperly installed sensor (as per repair manual it seems that both sensors are wired into the same connector) but let's see. That's it for now. Feel free to ask questions and I'll try to answer them. And some pictures as well:

When were the spark plugs changed and is there a clean fresh air filter fitted? Are the tyre pressures correct? Try a tank of E5 Super Unleaded 97 or 99 ron. As it is the Winter Formulation Petrol is being delivered from this wee to filling stations in Scotland and the north of England. Less Hygroscopic and the E10 might well have less Bio Ethanol in. And 97 or 99 ron Minimum can actually be the minimal ron.

The water inside the car is coming from the windscreen seal leaking (common problem) my Felicia is doing it again, but I've got to change windscreen so will sort it then. It's possible to sort it by using silicon sealant, there is a thread on here with pictures, from when someone else did it.

A "service" is just an engine oil and filter change and a look-see for more chargeable work (the "free health check" often offered, if it's had a "full car road test" then that would show up on your milage (if you know what it was when you left the car with them. Who knows how many or much diagnostics checks actually get done, I'm not saying they don't do them but I can't remember seeing any evidence (perhaps I have and forgot, no printed evidence with my wife's 2015 car), For extended scope you might or might not be able to see evidence of the wheels being removed and doors lubricated (a job you'd probably do better yourself). As for £330 for a battery replacement you could possibly get it done twice or more elsewhere, including any necessary 'coding' if you own an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and fully recharge the battery with it after reading the car's Owner's Manual and charger maintainer's booklet instructions, if done properly you may well get much more good serviceable life out of the battery with just very occasional future preventative recharges using the charger maintainer - but of course I can't know this and you may prefer to change the battery anyway if it's the factory original. If you want I can scan in some Dealership "service" bills to show how they were for my wife's 2015 Fabia bills and put them up as images/photos here, just let me know. After decades of poor and very poor service, and being ripped-off, by some of those in the British (well English motor trade) and hearing stories from people I know who work/worked in the trade for decades I really dislike to see customers done down (of course not all customers are exactly angels i know this from decades of experience too).

Yes it does. If you PM me I can check. Thanks. AG Falco

As Langers said before you need to look at a wiring diagram and follow the power supply to unresponsive modules from the battery to the fuses / relays into the controllers. There will be one or more that do not have power or ground supply. A good auto electrician should be able to do this too.

Check earthing points

can we agree on "towards you"?

All done now, with a couple of hiccups along the way. First hiccup was forgetting to reconnect the internal connector, so the indicator/hazzard lamp worked but the others didn't. Some minor head-scratching and cursing took place until I worked out the problem. Second hiccup was discovering a little split in my paintwork. (below) I cleaned that and applied a little touch-up paint to cover the hole. EDIT: I also gave the rubber mounts on the car that the light locates into a little squirt of silicone lubricant to make sure the light comes out without too much drama when the bulbs do go. Beyond that, it's all back in place and looks more or less as it should. 👍

usual pack drill, no names but if the cap fits ;o)

Hi, The car went back today and the top mount bearings were replaced. The top-caps now sit level and ~5-7 mm clear of the chassis. Apparently the new bearings had seized, so were replaced with another set of new ones. The whole coil over shock seems to rotate with steering inputs, as it should, now. Hopefully this issue is sorted now. I took the opportunity to give the scuttle a clean and poked out the various sludges from the drains...which will hopefully cure the excess moisture in the car 🙂 . Thanks rum4mo for you support and I hope you got your job done too.

Hi guys, just small update for the temporary solution, taking off fuse 22 didn't work (by the way it is fuse 22 under the steering wheel compartment not the engine bay...), but disconnecting the battery for some 20 minutes DID WORK (just take off + side, no need to disconnect both poles). Now everything works as it should, most likely the issue will come back at some point, but then you just repeat. Dealer said that Skoda supposed to give the software update until year end... Not really helpful, so if you have the chance do the temporary fix yourself then you can at least use the car as it was intended. After the battery reconnection some yellow lights came up but disappeared after some meters of driving, this is normal and also mentioned in the user manual. Happy fixing and thanks for all the help.

You seem to be confused about the points I am making and inferring that I'm a climate change denier???... There is a scientific consensus - yes - but there is also clear evidence from within the scientific community itself that not ALL change is man-made and that SOME is natural - eg per the NASA / NOAA info. and, for example, naturally occuring events like volcanic eruptions. The Solar Max element may be a small proportion (10% or so prior to any exacerbating effects we don't yet have a clear understanding of - as you yourself pointed out) but that doesn't nullify the fact that it exists. Stating that SOME is natural is therefore not misinformation at all... but to ignore the natural impacts and simply state '100% is man made' IS misinformation. You note that 'the scientific community say 100% of climate change is man made' - but all I have said in this thread is that's not factually correct, as other parts of the scientific community are saying that some is naturally occurring... You are free to disagree but I would suggest that it is that '100% is man made' approach that is actually contributing to the general public not being wholly accepting of the scientific consensus. There needs to be an honest approach that acknowledges some natural impacts and expresses things in a way that doesn't catastrophise quite so much - as a section of the public have simply turned off from it all as a result and once that has happened it's hard to get them back.

If you mean re climate change - well... yes clearly things are changing and have changed over the last 100 years or so, as to be expected in any developing world. Some of that will be due to man-made influence and some due to other things, such as Solar Max and the like potentially beyond our control. As to my thoughts - well... I already do what I can on a local level - by reducing, reusing and recycling, not buying stuff I don't need (like a new car every couple of years) and making stuff last the absolute longest I can by repairing as a preference wherever possible (thus avoiding initial manufacturing impacts) - all alongside making positive choices about my energy use. As for what the others in the collective 'we' think should be done - well... you'd have to ask them as I can only answer for myself

Yap exactly I saw that ty 👌 I'll try that 👌

Superunleaded is not PREMIUM fuel it is a higher octane and can have more of a detergent package and for just an extra £2.50 a tank full a better running engine might well use a bit less fuel, or just feel better. (Premium Diesel is a thing, higher detergents or Cetane.) It is important to have correctly gapped plugs and a clean air filter and an increase fuel consumption is often the first noticeable sign of consumables needing replaced. @phoneman(ret) how many litres are you putting in every 320 miles?

Trying premium fuel is not solving the problem, and unlikely to make any difference. If the engine seems down in power that would probably be the reason for poor fuel consumption. ootoheres comment about tyre pressures is very pertinent. I found the ECO pressures improved mpg by around 4 mpg, with autumn lower temperatures the pressures could easily have dropped by 5-10 psi. Our 2015 1.2 TSI DSG does 45mpg on 3-5 mile journeys, on very rare long 70 mph motorway journeys it goes 55mpg. With 110bhp it’s a quick car, but it always has Shell V Power petrol.

Yes, I accept that, but here is the real point, those same ICE cars will have the same range or maybe slightly more than the same car had when it was brand new because it is well run in and needs slightly less BHP to get it rolling. Plus I have been saying for a long time now, we could all actually get away with less BHP and smaller engines and thus be a hell of a lot greener and kinder to the planet and thus produce considerably less greenhouse gases and actually help to slow down the rate of climate change. My own car has a top speed of around 137mph, which I could never reach anywhere in the UK other than on a track, also I only do 70mph, which is the maximum legal speed in any case, and I certainly don't use anywhere near the maximum acceleration rate of the car therefore have plenty of power under my right foot which is never being used. So saying that you have tested many ICE cars which had much of their rated BHP lost, is actually being disingenuous and is actually totally ill relevant.

Just seen I left an important word out (how very unlike me).

Others would. Thanks AG Falco

Have I missed something, how did it pass an MoT if a seat belt (anchorage /stalk??) couldn't be tested? - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment#section-7-1-2

Great looking car, love the frontend tweaks and new wheels 😍

This is extremely helpful, I will do as you say. Thank you for your advice, it is much appreciated.

Have you the MOT paperwork? Is it online? https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history Service details should be put on an online ' Digital Service Schedule ' website. This can also be checked? Thanks. AG Falco

People hide an awful lot of bad behaviour in vague terms and comforting-sounding phrases. This garage sounds like they could be fobbing you off with vague waffle. The trick is to pin them down to specifics. Ask more specific questions. Forget asking about your "service". Ask "When my car was with you, was the engine oil and filter changed? Which oil was used? Was the air filter changed? Was the fuel filter changed?" etc. Ask them WHO performed the work, get a name. Then ask for the paperwork confirming all this. If they fob you off and tell you it's all been done and you have no need to worry, without providing details and evidence, then maybe you have been mugged off. Make allowances for dippy reception staff and busy service managers, but be persistent. Don't encourage the idea that if they just keep fobbing you off for long enough, eventually you will go away. I'd be looking for another garage for the next service, as you clearly don't trust this one.

Left and right the engine bay are the water drain paths, here in GR we call them for fun as ''sink''. Are they free of debris, leaves etc? A little water in the sides of the engine bay can be found, rain passes throught the hood sides, it's not something uncommon. Are your door seals in good condition? Are they soft cared with special product or you leave them unattenand and got stiff?

The service history is easily checked by a Skoda dealer or by a decent independent with access to the Skoda service database. Have you checked to see if a service was recorded as being done on your car the day before purchase? Yeah, engine oil in diesels is like that. Pretty hard to judge the condition of it by just looking at it. Where did you get it serviced, Harrods!? Might be worth giving trading standards a call about them. That, or drop them a line. 🤐 I'm not a diesel owner because I wanted to avoid this, but it's not a deal-breaker if you know the foibles of DPFs and work with the DPF rather than against it. I'm not prepared to change my lifestyle to suit my car, so I understand your frustration. <ding-ding-ding-ding-ding> We have a winner! https://www.moneyhelper.org.uk/en/everyday-money/buying-and-running-a-car/your-rights-if-something-is-wrong-with-your-car To summarise: Less moaning and feeling sorry for yourself, more proactive action on getting a satisfactory resolution. 👍 In future, it might be worth running a check on who's running the business you're making a big purchase from before you hand over any money. The MOT history looks pretty ropey, for that car. I think it's been used and abused. It's always a red flag if a car has advisories on its first MOT, IMO. Good luck! 🤞

I think they're Xenon but could be wrong, I was told they're the more expensive ones.

The Owner's Manuals applicable to Fabia Mk 3 cars advise on updating via a USB port or an SD card as appropriate, but the Manuals for all Fabia Mk 4 cars just have the 'Updating the navigation database' section I posted above.

https://youtu.be/cubO1HT50s0?si=IgfsQeJQ5TINusL0

Was it coded to the car after it was fitted. Was this a wheel speed sensor? What fault codes do do you still have and have the warning codes been checked /noted and cleared? Thanks. AG Falco

Hi Both, Thank you very much for your replies it is appreciated. So I was not given a read out unfortunately, his plug in machine looked modern. Today it came up with the above errors & then '12V Battery not charging stop the vehicle' this has not ever come up before. Surely the garage would have eliminated the battery as a cause as a basic check? I'm keen to eliminate Relays/Fuse Box etc as a cause & a second opinion prior to committing to the cost of a ECU change with no guarantee it will solve it. As you can probably tell I am no mechanic! Thank you again.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491830-ngk-bkur5et-10-your-opinion-about-them/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503282-ngk-iridium-bkr5eix-11-do-they-look-good/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/504479-denso-ik16-iridium-which-never-worked-for-me/ Only bad experiences i had with other spark plugs except the Champion platinum.

Lot of electrical issues. Have you run an error test with VSDS or a similar tool? Have you check the connections in the right lever on steering wheel column? The bulbs for the reverse are OK?

Factory, the best choice. I have used 2 brands Iridium spark plugs and never worked properly, also Bosch NGK with not good results. My Felicia is with ECU ship, custom exhaust, K&N filter and the Champion RC89PYC were/are/will be the No1.

You would make it home in mos EVs. I was the Turtle in my Zoe earlier this week when it got down to 2 % range. At 6% left, about 20 miles the car suggested I use ECO mode, at 3% a battery warning come up and a limited performance warning and I got home with 2% showing on the battery percentage of charge. The limited performance was not really evident, it still accelerated like a scalded cat. In actuality, much like range prediction on a VW, one can do miles and miles after the zero. In a car powered by liquid hydrocarbons the fuel pump start to dry in air and cavitate, horrible noise. In a good EV the available power gradually diminishes to zero but this will be many many miles after zero miles range shown and the 0% State of Charge. Matt Watson drove for nearly an hour after these warnings came up in the Zoe, admittedly at a sort of town driving pace as he came off the motorway rather than breakdown there. I think he started at South Mimms and was turning off for the A19 off to Thirsk/Teesside. They had driven at 70 mph when they could up until then. Range anxiety is quite easily avoidable these days by either slowing down a bit or nip off for ten or twenty minutes and get some rapid charging done.

@Winston_Woof Who is it you think the views expressed would tick off & why would they? People acting daft for affect certainly does annoy some people. If you drive a petrol or diesel you want to know which pump you need to buy fuel at. If you buy an EV, borrow it or what ever best just find out if it charges only with a ChAdeMO or at on an AC charger and what your max charging speed is. (He was looking at a CHAdeMO in his hand.) AC port at one side of the car and CHAdeMO at the other. If buying an older or early model expect it to be different from vehicles a decade or more newer. £1,000 for a road legal car for going to the shops, work, train station etc. Less than an Electric Bike might cost you and leave it for hours charging maybe 10 kWh on an AC charger for £3.50-£4.50 and less chance of being stolen than a bike. If you can charge at home, work, college or where ever maybe much cheapness.

This has been answered before... The recommended plugs are Champion RC89PYC, Brisk DR15TC and NGK BKUR5ET-10. I had the best experience with Brisk plugs.

@Fabiafan6 - What @MikeTheThinker said, with the note that your car will be unroadworthy until the RH rear lighting cluster is replaced.

DMF may be on its way out, explain why the vibration stops when you press the clutch. The springs in the dmf can fail causing excess movement

Octavia VRS (December 2021 Build) Registered Feb.2022 has it. It was an option on the car when I purchased it. Neily03 is correct in that a number of options, standard and additional where affected by the semi-conductor issues.

Is anyone on here actually bothered about whether your panels do or don't other than you? 😉

Here's my attempt at doing that:

Sorry, just took a deposit for it. Thanks for your interest though!

I’m pretty sure new engines will use a bit more and settle down, I believe people have said on here as well it’s almost leaving the factory low. IMO they should be topping to max during its inspection before leaving but don’t think they do

Just to comment very quickly on this - I use Costco and yes I generally expect to queue at busy times - much as I would at the local Sainsbury's on a Saturday, which is generally just as bad. I did so on Saturday and had maybe a 10 minute wait but I was at Costco anyway for food (my wife was already in the shop) and saving 10p per litre it's a wrth while thing to do. However, filling up at Costco on the way home from work I very rarely have to queue and am usually straight on a pump or have just one car in front of me. As ever with these things it depends on the 'spin' being placed upon the statements. And yes I have a double driveway and a garage and three petrol powered ICE cars (one of which is a mild hybrid). I could go EV and may well do so at some point in the future foe one of them but that will only happen when it suits me and I'm up for changing vehicles - which isn't going to be for many years yet (registrations are 2018, 2017 and 1995 - so lots of life left in them yet...)

I have no experience of that particular filter but perhaps I could make a common sense observation.................... The male threaded protrusion has a hexagon inside suggesting to me that it can be removed for use on engines like yours which requires a female threaded filter or left in place for those requiring a male threaded one. Another possibility is that the mating face on the engines filter housing has a male threaded "nipple" (plumbing term) which should remain in place but perhaps sometimes gets unscrewed and thrown away with the old filter so the manufacturer includes the part with the replacement filters. Playing devils advocate if the above is correct I would have expected the nipple to have not been pre-fitted to the filter but I suspect packaging constraints dictated that it should be to prevent possible damage in transit. Try seeing if your new filter will fit after removing the part.