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Well it’s been over a month since I exchanged my Yeti for a Mini Countryman. I promised to provide a bit of feedback on the swap. Undoubtedly the Countryman is quieter, smoother, faster and more comfortable than the Yeti, but as it was designed nearly 15 years later than the Yeti that should be the case. Not that the Yeti was bad, in fact I enjoyed it right to the last, but you can tell you are driving a more modern car. The size of the Countryman took some getting used to but you adapt amazingly quickly and soon forget it’s bigger, the steering is quick which makes driving it more of a Yeti experience than some competitors I tried. The technology is worlds advanced than the Yeti – if you like that sort of thing! Fortunately the ‘warning’ bongs are well muted and easy to switch off, the lane departure and edge of road warnings are very mild and easily ignored. One thing I thought I would never use is the semi automatic driving mode, once engaged it basically drives the car! It keeps the car within the lane, maintains set speed but slows down and speeds up as the traffic changes. It will even bring the car to a complete halt if the traffic stops then pull away again once the car in front moves off. Obviously no use around town etc. but surprisingly helpful on major roads and motorways. What do I miss? I really miss the simple knobs to adjust climate control, turn on/off heated seats and not having an oil dipstick – have to check oil level electronically. Why? A dipstick is much simpler, fail safe and handier than having to delve through levels on the touch screen. The touch screen is a lot better than that on other cars I test drove but it still bugs me that the authorities think it is okay to use a cars touchscreen and not okay to use a smartphones touch screen. How does that make sense? In summary I have to say that I am pleased with my swap, the Countryman is a worthy replacement and has a certain character to it that other cars I test drove didn’t - bit like the Yeti! BUT the Yeti will always have a place in my heart as a great car which was always a pleasure to drive. Like many others I can’t understand why Skoda stopped developing the Yeti as it could be a brilliant 2024 car if Skoda had stuck with the development.

That is what it is supposed to do, it will do this in any mode even Sport mode. If the engine is under light enough load and various conditions are met it will go into 2 cylinder mode. I have this engine and the changeover from 4 cylinder to 2 cylinder and back again is imperceptible to the driver, to the point that without the eco symbol or “ 2 cylinder mode “ words being displayed the driver wouldn’t know it was doing it. I’m sorry but I don’t see what the problem with all of this is ?

Around six months ago my AdBlue warning came up: informing me that I had a minimum amount of miles to go before the car would refuse to start. I have always filled it when warnings came up and so filled it again - and the same warning came up again. It turned out be be the AdBlue tank levelling sensor was faulty. The shock was that Skoda do not remove the tank, change the level monitor and recalibrate - they choose to replace the whole complete, AdBlue tank. Cost? An unbelievable £850 or thereabouts!! Thankfully I was still in (extended) warranty and the work was carried out. Interestingly, I discovered that the sensors CAN be replaced and recalibrated by commercial providers. Please try them first (unless you are still within a warranty agreement). Also eBay can come up with second-hand tanks for your model around the £100-150 mark. Further investigation informed me that this level-sensing fault is not uncommon on AdBlue vehicles within VAG. Oooops!

Thanks, that's reassuring again, I will indeed - and I'll not hold you personally responsible if it does fail on the journey! 😃

When start/stop doesn't work it's always worth checking the infotainment screen that gives an explanation why it isn't working - things like aircon, electrical load, etc.

Thank you! I thought it might be! Have had a Fabia for 8 years and now moved on to an Octavia! Love them all. Thanks again HappySam! Have a good day!

It is surprising how many ICE owners don't realise that the fuel gauge often has that little marker on

As previously stated, take your battery for a free load test at a trusted garage. I personally have never owned a car yet (owned many), that the s/s system has worked 100% of the time. This is my second Octavia with the same engine as yours, mine doesn't work 100% of the time either, when it does it's not always 100% reliable either, I'm certainly not concerned about it though, my battery is good. My car always idles consistently, slighter higher for a few seconds after a cold start then drops back to normal. No increases at junctions or lights when stopped. This engine can be marginally jerky to use when very cold, although within the bounds of acceptability within my experience. If you are not sure about it's previous service history, I'd also be tempted to change the spark plugs. As mine started breaking down x3 of the 4 within two years after being changed within my last octavia, my current one had them changed a year ago.

Been a while, but in the end we just scraped it. Our Lad buggered off to Wales with his latest skanky gf, had a baby with her, fell out and is still there no job no money. Tbh were happy he’s out of our hair. But on the fabia front, been keeping our eyes out for a similar fabia but in estate form for our own use. Was so impressed with the lads one, everytime I had to do anything to it was generally pretty easy. Everything came apart and went back together as intended. Genuingley feel these are some of the best engineered cars out there. So a few weeks back we happened upon a 56 plate Ambient 1.4 16v 100hp estate in my favoured Red with just 47k on it. Got a fair bit of history and the mot history confirms mileage. So we’ve bought it. Needs a few bits, noisy cv and I’ve not seen any evidence that its ever had a cambelt change. So both are top of the list before we use it too much.

Hi, Are you sure you don't mix oil and coolant temp displays? Coulant system is designed to keep almost steady at 90°C, whereas the oil temps is rather around 100°C and can fluctuate in a larger range. Coming back to your initial question. I don't see signs of water pump issue at this time. Note: I had to replace mine at 62000km (I'm also a TDI190 4x4 owner).

In all other VAG cars I have owned Carista had the option to switch throttle response behaviour between 'gradual' & 'direct' but this wasn't available for my March 2023 1.5 TSi Karoq until now! (I'm on Beta) Given well publicised difficulties with driveability / ease of stalling I was keen to try this option and will report back on my experience with a switch from gradual to direct 👍

My pre-reg came with ceramic coating (cost of which was added on my invoice). Since my little scratch (deffo cat that got shut in garage), I have to get a “proper” repair to maintain the coating warranty. A few weeks down the line, still not done as cannot find anyone to do it (too small a job/cost of recoating panel). Oh for the days of ordinary paint and Duplicolor!

2016 Scout with stock battery still. It's only given me a hard time a couple times when it was -30C outside, which is to be expected. That's why I got a Noco GB70 to give it the jolt it needs if it gets cranky in the cold winter. Starts right up with that one, so I just travel with it when it's that cold just in case.

New maps are out Or here P390

If you look at the second photo of eBay listing number 394480263963 you'll see that there are three fasteners that are accessible from front side of the fan shroud. Bit of a mission to get to them unfortunately, because it's tight to remove the fan shroud, after other fan is removed with its 'plastic tripod' bit. Beware of rusty Tx30 fasteners that will round off if tool engagement is shallow.

Check the charge output directly off the alternator to confirm alternator or wiring problem.

Prepare yourselves, episode 39 is about to drop! Talk about going down a two year rabbit hole!

Apparently, if one plugs in to a powerful DC charger ie over 100 kws, but one only sees 35/36 kwh when one is expecting over 100 kw charging as the car is capable of over 100 kw and battery is half or less charged it means the cable cooling has failed and that is quite common, even happened on Ionity chargers which are normally quite good. Live and learn.

It sounds like they are Audi A4 alloy rims, which although looking like the Audi A3 alloy rims use a different 7Jx16 ET42 specification rather than the 6.5Jx16 ET50 specification that the Audi A3 uses.

So which one? Vinyl is pvc. Remember this before you post in other topics. And don't ever try to make connection between Czechoslovakia an USSR again. That crossed the line and you to ignore now.

@classicthat was not a slight on you. You show what your car is and 2022 and 2023 did have changes from earlier models.

In the owner's manual there's different advice depending on whether the Yeti is front wheel drive or 4x4. On the Yeti front wheel drive snow chains can only be fitted to the front wheels, and the tyres have to be those small outside diameter 205/55R16 or 205/50R17. There's also advice on the rim specification that these tyre sizes can be fitted to.

Hello folks. What a pain this has proven to be! TLDR: I just replaced the whole locking mechanism ------- This being said, I did remove the locking mechanism and clean it first but in doing so a spring fell out and it was near impossible to replace and I ended up pinging it across the garage... hence the new lock. There are some really useful videos online that go through the steps and you can pretty easily get to the lock with a little bit of fiddling. The main issue on my vehicle, the Mk2 Estate, is getting the metal plate/cover off from the inside of the door panel that allows you to access the window glass and locking mechanism. It was held in place with pop rivets, now luckily for me I had dealt with this previously by drilling them out and drilling in holes for screws. The plate screws directly into the window regulators guide rails (forgot the word for them now 🤣). I've found the best way to put this back together is by lowering the glass which pushes the guide rails forward enough for you to screw it in from the front and apply a nut to the back. ------- My best, rough, guide: Lower the glass, I lowered it all the way at first and messed around but you could probably lower it just some of the way and hold it up with tape Remove the interior door panel Pop out the three plastic covers on the side of the door (in all honesty I don't know what the bigger one is for) Unscrew the top hole, which holds in place the door lock cylinder Pull on the door handle and wiggle out the door lock cylinder (the bit that you put your key in) On the side of the door handle there will be a cable that goes to the lock, detach this with a flathead screwdriver Here the memory gets a little foggy, but unscrew the bottom hole which should help to release the door lock There could be some connectors around here that need moving with a flathead screwdriver but IIRC it should start to just wiggle out You should now, probably, have the door lock in your hand Now, if you want to clean out the microswitch and try it yourself I would recommend that you go and watch this video, there's also some other videos on YouTube that are pretty good. In doing this, please, please, please be careful not dislodge any of the springs around the locking switch bit.. if you do you will either need some serious DIY skills and patience that I don't have or you'll have to buy a new locking mechanism. For the amount of time (and times I stabbed myself with a flathead) I decided it wasn't worth trying to get the spring back in (or looking for the spring I flew across the room) and bought a new one. Fitting a new one is pretty simple, basically just get it in place and line up the latch with the hole in the door and screw it in. It is worth noting here that my new mechanism did not have either of the cables attached to it. I installed the interior cable, but forgot about the exterior cable and then had to uninstall the unit to go and get the cable from the old locking mechanism! Don't make the same mistake as me lol. Once it's in you can give the connector a spray with WD-40 (the electrical connector one) and plug it in. Make sure to connect the exterior door to lock cable, then you can pull on the handle to pop the locking cylinder back in and screw it in. Next up is fitting the metal cover again, you can see above that I used screws for this and how I got it back together.. one thing to make sure of though: the interior cable needs to come through the right hole ... I might've put it through the wrong hole and fastened everything up, you can imagine the door didn't shut because the cable was being pulled too tight. Anywho, after all of this shenanigans it works. If it only it was as simple as writing out this post. It's not the easiest and it gave me about a week of pure pain but now I can happily say that when I leave the headlights on and open my door the car tells me off 😂 I did get a couple of pictures, but I'm not sure how they really fit in to what I'm saying so I'll leave them out but if anyone would like to see them let me know. Good luck! ------- Resources: Microswitch Cleaning Video Microswitch Replacement Video (this has two parts) Door Lock Mechanism Replacement Guide There's plenty of more videos on YouTube but these were the most helpful.

Hi Bap33, yes I did mix oil temp with coolant temp , spoke to my independent garage who confirmed oil temp can fluctuate and it sounded an ok temp. Used car today and all fine ,water always 90 degrees and oil about 95 degrees on a 15 mile drive there and back but also about 6 degrees colder day than last drive. Martin.

I think this is matter of installation, as long as the pedal has proper anti-slip features and no self-tappers peeking from the other side of the pedal, it's good. Same with steering wheels, some installations are sketchy.. Once deformation gets to the suspension subframe, it pushes steering wheel up, around it's mounting. Just in time to meet with drivers head traveling in the opposite direction. Felicias with airbag had accordion-like steering column, which deformed to keep the steering wheel in place. I think that main reason for that is, that its rear half and front wheels come from Jawa motorcycle 😁 Here's it's not even called a car, but "vozítko" (diminutive of vehicle).

I can only quote what was in the video, I'm not in the habit of making things up am I?

? Where does 100,000 km / 62,000 miles come into it from?

The advice re timing belt is much longer than 5 years, so no you do not need to replace the timing belt unless you have done over 100,000km. Water pump changing on the 1.4/1.5 engines doesn't have a schedule, just replace when faulty or the belt is sowing signs of wear when visually inspected.

All very very bad. A horrible way to go.

@FergalK sorry, rushing last reply, I've more time now to fully read your post and respond to it. The Yuasa YBX9096 AGM battery should have been a good battery for your car model and unless you've added something to your car that's power hungry or constant drain I would have expected a longer life from it. But if the battery is allowed to go very low in charge, or too low too often, it never fully recovers. The manufacturer's leaflet has it requires a 4-amp recharge, which would be the most I'd recharge at obviously it can take more and will be quicker recharging but that won't be as effective or as long lasting, if you have been doing much higher rate (and quicker) recharging with you battery charger, or not leaving it long enough to fully recharge, then that will have a less than satisfactory effect and accumulative effect (as with all recharging and use of battery). The Owner's Manual has 0.1 so up to 7-amps on your 70 Ah battery (not as good as 4, 3, 2 or less amps) but your charger might have 8, 10, 12-amps settings available I've no idea (I'd guess 8). - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/YUASA_YBX9096_DATASHEET.pdf If the non-starting has been going on this long then your best bet is perhaps just to fit a new battery and do preventative recharge if and when required before the battery gets too low, before rather than after it gets too low. The new battery does need to be 'coded' in correctly, this will also check if the present battery was 'coded' correctly (it was reported by a Briskoda member that his auto-electrician put in 7 Ah instead of 70Ah, why the car's computer programming would allow this is a different matter). Personally before fitting the new AGM battery to my wife's 2015 Fabia I charged it to 100% so that I knew exactly how it was at installation in case I needed to do subsequent checking shortly after fitting as the AGM (or start/stop). The multimeter is just the tool for initial checking of the battery and car's charging system as you can put the probes directly on to the battery terminal posts to get actual direct reading from the battery. The start/stop system not being active at times it should be is the first sign that the battery is in a low state of charge, often just driving the car with the car's charging system able to fully do the job that is enough to get the battery to a higher state of charge but this does depend on how much can go into the battery and how much electric is being used in the car at that time, the type of journey and driving will also effect this. I'm surprised you've not had warnings light and messages about the battery and possibly all sorts of other unexpected warnings (and unseen error codes) but perhaps you laid the battery low once but it's managed to struggle on enough perhaps helped by some recharges enough to keep other warning and issues away. With modern cars the battery not being able to start the engine is a sure sign that the battery is very low in state of charge, usually you have lots of signs of low charge before this but some people do report a sudden drop (or "death") of their battery and the engine won't start, whatever the cause that's the situation they find themselves in. Often, and I'd suggest very often, it could be recovered from, but not always. Long story short. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx9096/ Whatever you do or decide let us know how you get on.

In the alternator drive pulley yes. I've had both of the issues I suggested as possible, and a competent local garage will can diagnose and repair if you wait for the actual failure.

its been unhidden. i really dont k ow what i put in it the first time that it got held, i editted it a bit, and it was still hidden. anyways, its there now 🤣

Welcome for your short visit. This has a lot to do with communications with Skoda / VW Group UK, Pathetic Customer Services and after sales.

Next to signal strength? Its the phone battery charge.

useful but not quite the same thing ;o)

Try cleaning the fuel tank vent (visible with the filler cover off) using a pipe cleaner or similar).

It's probably an indication that either the exciter wire or the sprague clutch is starting to go. Have a hundred quid ready in case the clutch breaks but don't worry unless/until the light either doesn't come on when you switch the ignition on or you start getting graceful degradation of the electrics.

As you can see below, Fabia and Karoq wheels aren't interchangeable due to the different BCD. BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) Fabia 5/100 Karoq 5/112

On my 2018 Fabia with incandescent DRLs, when both failed in quick succession I was constantly nagged on the MFD every time I turned on the ignition so they must be monitored somehow.

So I try to explain.. I start at the side of the sunglass box.. I go in with my hand and pull down, so the console "seperates". I marked it with number 1 on the picture.. So now there is a space and I can see the two black hooks.. number 2 I push them with a removal tool and the side will go down.. 3rd step are the black hooks on the side.. push them with a removal tool and it will come of.. The metal clips are not really holding the console.. its the 4 black hooks you have to release.. thats the trick..

I had one in the centre of the car at the back under the number plate

So I am still searching and testing.. What I found is that the black panel where the console is mounted on cracks also in the area of the picture.. Right at this spot there is also a white clip behind it which goes into the metal.. its holding the cable harness.. When I push at this spot it crackles.. so for testing in sprayed Krytox (the VW spray, like silicone spray) right there.. on the white harness clip and on the clip of the mounting panel and it was gone.. So the next step is I will fix the white clip with butyl..so it cant move.. The console itself is half quiet now.. the area where the sunglass box is I used felt tape.. no crackling anymore.. the area where the light is still crackles.. I sprayed Krytox on it and waiting now.. testing it the next days..

Care to share?

Hey Buddy! Did you solve the problem? My Console is cracking on rough roads also.. I already took it down and tried to stop it with felt tape... no success till now.. I also wrapped everything with tesa.. didnt help.. Thanks for every help..

That’s really helpful information thanks, so the next stage is a different branch of Kwickfit in. The morning (don’t shoot me just yet) are running a diagnostic check and a battery check . I have been informed by customer service that the branch had an up to date scan tool program for my car. If this doesn’t solve the issue then I’ll b3 on here begging for someone with the right equipment to help me out………..I’ll update as things progress,,,, thank you fir your support Craig

On the day of delivery, bit dirty from the journey (approximately 3.5 hour journey, delivered to me)

Standard check in.

That looks pretty darn good, sure looks more like a sealing surface now. After looking at what’s involved, it’s a fair bit of work to get to where you are now. It’ll all be worth it when you still have money in your pocket after you’ve finished. Good job 👍

Replace it when the car struggles to start on a few consecutive days.