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I would lay money down that they will have not the foggiest idea🤣🤣

Been back in business since last Tuesday! Tracked up and new Pirelli tyres as well. Feels like a brand new motor! Creeping up on 97,000 miles now. Going well now. That'll do.

Sounds perfectly reasonable to me, so long as it maintains that temperature under load, idling in a traffic jam on a hot day etc you have nothing to worry about. Modern petrol engines run at higher cylinder block temperatures for greater efficiency, the reason for the kidology with the temperature guage is that there is still far too much guff given out in an autoritative manner that has not been relevant for over 6 decades, the days before pressurised cooling systems, many people still believe that the engine will boil over at 100°c because that is what they have been told or have read. Do your cooling fans often cut in? In Northern Europe they rarely do, mine havn't in 30 years, in the Australian climate I would expect them to be working from time to time but not to drop the coolant temp below the figure you have recorded.

He may well be wrong. Expensive mistake if it tests the same after replacement. In start/stop cars with EFB or AGM batteries, the output voltage of the alternator is variable, and will not measure 'good' according to a tester that is expecting a traditional wet battery system.

Mine is scheduled for the update next week, they say I have to leave it for at least 2-3 days as it will be a long update affecting multiple control units. I have done the battery disconnect fix roughly 2 months ago and no issues eversince. Hope they do not mess up something new in the update.

From a meander around Sheffield Park yesterday afternoon: Lightning strike: Gaz

Hi Max, welcome. For reliability and less frequent servicing, maintenance and repairs costs start at Toyota, or Honda perhaps, obvious you always buy on condition as there can be good and bad examples of any brand or model depending on previous owners. Take mpg figures as a generalisation on any car, particularly from the manufacturers, and different people will always get different mpg figures from exactly the same car, High mileage is often better than low or very low mileage in many areas but of course high mileage may show signs of wear in say things like seat(s), carpet, trim, switches perhaps (perhaps another reason for some better made Japanese cars). As you can tell I am unusual here as I do not particularly like the German marques including VW that has the Škoda brand now but the vast majority of other members that do like, or to enough extent, so lots of advice on this site for you. For your first car (and also later cars possibly) for at least the first year of ownership do not be tempted to spend money after purchase on cosmetics and changing anything that is not needed as part of servicing, maintenance and repairs. An appropriate battery charger maintainer would possibly be a good investment particularly with German marques start-stop cars. If you really want a 2012-14 VWŠkoda Octavia then you might be better looking at and/or perhaps asking in the model forum, 2012-14 covers two models Mk2 and Mk3 so here is the link to the area of Briskoda that cover both plus other Octavia forums. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-škoda-octavia/ Good luck.

According to Ofcom, here in the UK some providers have already turned off their 3G networks, others scheduled to do so by early 2025. Also, they plan to cease 2G services by 2033 but as yet no planned dates. Don't know much about how the SOS module works buy guess it may get away with a 2G service for a voice call and maybe sending location; but Škoda Connect Services I reckon would need higher bandwidth than 2G offers (a mere 40kbps). I have emailed my dealer to ask if they can shed any light on the question.

The calibration is based off of the wheel alignment. What one workshop says is correct won't necessarily be the same as what another workshop settles on, as their equipment gives them a tolerance. As long as they're within tolerance, they'll often leave it at that The ADAS sensors also have a tolerance before they'll throw a wobbler, so whilst it may "work" without a calibration you won't necessarily be getting the best possible performance from your assist systems

I also think it is more to do with the battery failing, I had the start engine manually message come up a few months ago, which appeared following the engine stopping while sitting in a traffic jam with the stop/start. The message appeared when the car attempted to restart. Replacing the battery cured the problem. The battery was tested and it was duff.

Read this: Energy management.pdf

On what basis? Many people, including garages, don't understand how alternators work with start/stop battery systems.

For those playing at home - Skoda has replaced the screen. Hopefully that will resolve the issue.

My wife's SE Tech Estate had the software update applied yesterday. She picked it up a couple of hours ago and drove 25 miles home with no issues. Fingers crossed it stays that way!

Its really recommended to use screen wash and not just water in your screen wash bottle. It stops bacterial growth as well as keeps the nozzle jets clean of dirt. Make sure you also have your mesh screen in the top of the filler cap/keep it clean.

Noticed i didn't update this after street weekend. Was eventful. On the cover Made it to pod and in line first day was just to get a number on the board don't want to break it on the first run but sadly just after my run it started raining and the day was called off. Did hang back to help a friend with his car get it sorted so by the time we left it had dried up and the stance with the new suspension seems to better good. First Stop was Skegness Pier eventful drive with all the rain, complete storm out Next Checkpoint was the Viking Way Cafe Then onto Melbourne Raceway, Noticed that there wasn't much meth left in the tank after the pod run and after talking to the guys at darkside as we were confused how it's using alot of meth i stepped it down a nozzle number to reduce the flow and refilled the tank. First Run was up against a Commer Van with a B204 Second run was against my friend Abi's Abarth you can see from the video with the torque steer it was pulling itself all over the place about 11 seconds in Noticed the 0-60 out the corner of my eye and it managed a 5.15 fastest its ever went Then noticed the meth light on...used 4.5 litres in 2 1/8 mile runs so something not right here and it's not leaking definately going through the engine. Time for the next stage of the road trip, first stop was the motorist. Then down to Great Northern Classic's and back to pod First run was up against my friends michael and dale from spotted motors in their Cortina, No meth just to get a time on the board. Sitting 2nd overall in Diesel and there was someone with another fabia climbing up the table and getting closer to my average so took it in line for another run with the meth turned on which ended like this launch was awful, got into 2nd wheelspin, put it into 3rd to run out the wheelspin and could hear it misfire and before my brain could tell my foot to lift off there was a bang. Turned it off pulled over to the side. Once stopped turned it over to be met with it free spinning and no compression. Marshall came over and asked if it was driveable told him no i think its blew the engine. He had a quick look under and said it wasn't leaking. Opened the bonnet to find the bolt that holds the injectors had snapped and fired the injectors out of the engine breaking all the leak off pipes, bending the hardpipes and denting the bonnet. Again from the trackside pictures it looks like the meth was overfueling and created too high a cylinder pressure. still managed to secure 2nd over all in diesel behind a 450bhp 435D Thankfully Darkside were on the drive home and they said to drop it off on the way home which lucky another competitor i was with stuck it on their truck up to darkside then took me back home to scotland. End result in the damage was 2 new injectors, new leak off pipes and a new rail and hardpipes. Still best modified car event there is in the uk

Care Connect is the subscription service that allows certain remote functionality and data exchange between car and My Skoda App.

So, it seems I get to keep your money 😜 Reply from dealer, they reckon the Octy 4 has indeed got a 4G compatible eSIM.

P393 is the latest version just released.

To conclude this thread the car is now all working again! After finding this YouTube video I thought ah that seems like the same symptoms I’m getting. Attached a multimeter between the actuator arm and battery negative and sure enough it was reading a positive charge up to 6 volts when the car was trying to command it to open or close the waste gate! I purchased another new turbo actuator from eBay and it turned up today, exactly the same unit and part numbers as the previous replacement but this one installed the car and it works perfectly! No errors and car drives fine! Soooooo relieved! I honestly was thinking we might have to scrap the car as it might cost more to diagnose than it’s worth. This is the actuator I purchased that’s worked fine is anyone’s interested: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146204849057?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zb5xpfpurwu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=d_XRAh4nTKa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY the previous one is being sent back as faulty for a refund 🙂

A good OBD scanner/reader could also point an eventual failure in the alarm system. Why don't you look for some Briskodian in your area that has/offers assistance with a diagnostic system such as VCDS?

Hi, you could use CarScanner to code the battery !!! see the code Vendor in RossTech forum if you have not BEM code

A quick check would be to see tyre sizes fitted to Enyaq’s with 19” wheels, and see if they fit your wheels, use this site to check different wheel and tyre sizes against those fitted to your car. What you’re looking for is a small change in diameter or revs per mile, less than 5% to keep your speedometer correct https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tools/tyre-size-calculator/205-55-r16 Also check the offset, usually noted as ET, this keeps your wheel bearings in good order. Should have read @Carlston post first!!

When I bought my Octy 6yrs ago I had the same problem, after joining and searching this forum, the consensus was only to use VAG washer fluid. I did just as you have and used some wire to clear the jets and have used it ever since with no problem. Others will say they use whatever washer fluid and it works for them, I tried Tesco's, Morrisons and Halfords with no great success and passed them on to my son who has a 62 plate VRS, he has no problems with these fluids.

Thanks JR That gives me something to go with when I contact Skoda again. Really appreciate your help thank you.

/how old is it?

Not sure about in the menus... Just hold down the menu switch button on the steering wheel to close it down and use stock software.

^^^ That was / is the 'Original' WD40 there are various now..

fixed now😃

Thanks rum, much appreciated. I've done a fair bit of retrofitting on Audi's and VW's in the past, so I'm confident with getting my hands dirty and wallet emptied 🥲 Unfortunately I failed to find much info via Google either. Lots of people swapping them into 5J/mk2's, but couldn't really find anything beyond people mentioning they'd done it on NJ/mk3's, with little more information included. Good to know about the loom, tbh I forgot Kufatec include instructions! Perhaps I'll have a look for some Monte Carlo seats, it seems those are much more commonly heated. Should be a nice comfort upgrade for her as well, hers is an SE with, afaik, the most basic seats available on the model. As well as the loom and heated seats, Kufatec suggests I'll need "Original seat heating controller" and "Original control unit for seat heating". I suppose one of these is the replacement buttons unit, including the two additional buttons to control the heating function for each seat. Struggling to find much info on this, or even a P/N. Might be time to fire up my ETKA VM and do some digging. Update: Checked ETKA. Seems this is P/N 6V0927132B or 6V0927132C. B supports PRs 4UC and 4UE, "driver airbag" and "airbag for driver and front passenger" respectively. C supports PR 4UF, "driver and front passenger airbag with front passenger airbag deactivation". I'll have to check which one she currently has. I'm then assuming that the other is the relay, which seems to carry P/N 6R0959772E. If I go ahead with the project, I'll be sure to write up a guide for anyone else!

@Eddie-NL can you please look at my new thread "2015 Skoda yeti Dash and radio clocks are different times" and please give any info that you have for fixing this problem with the different times on the clocks of our Skoda's Thanks in advance

FFS I give in 😂 😂 😂 😂 must be my frikkin phone as I said ...can't see any @ ....ahhh there ya go need a space ....I'm learning @nta16

@nta16 ...must be my phone then cos all I'm getting is ..share n report ...no edit ...prob need to do it on a laptop ...sorry for all the misunderstanding ...I've set up the new post now

My money is on a linkage issue, Personally I've not heard that the 6sp manual is prone to premature failure plus gearbox faults do not generally manifest themselves in the manner described, they tend to break and stay broken! If it helps at all this is a photo of the linkages on my car, in neutral of course.

Perhaps it's something they can do remotely? In my case, I didn't leave the car, the guy went to his desks & logged into some kind of Skoda website. After a few seconds he came back and said try to reconnect your user profile & everything worked. All they probably needs is your VIN & Skoda app user ID/login name

Not for me I'm afraid. My car's system is working, I'll leave it alone as these minor glitches keep appearing with other peoples cars.

Funnily enough I was on the motorway last night and was looking at this and realise I had steering wheel vibration on only 😆 Its actually pretty good now....

Correct. I have both Mine does the lane assist and is very good and sticks between the lines. I have four the aftermarket replacement is this - https://www.autoglasswarehouse.com.au/skoda~74536454

My New Driving Licence arrived a couple of days ago. Expires day before my 70th birthday. Automatics only. Cars and various vehicle types. (I have 1 leg) Kept my Motorbike of any power but restriction 79(3) applied, so 3 wheels only / trike can have a power output of more than 15 kW Also 'AM' 2 or 3 wheel vehicles max speed 28 mph. Also light quad bikes same max speed, unladen mass of 350 kg, excluding batteries for electric vehicles.

Hi, welcome. - (merhaba hoş geldiniz) This is an English language site so best to post text in English. - (Bu İngilizce bir site olduğundan İngilizce metin yayınlamak en iyisidir.) -

I filmed the new Škoda Elroq in Paris, check out Sport Line and Plus trim.

This was the only point I didn't explain in my presentation. And that's because I thought the way I did it was particularly complicated. However, since many people have asked me through messages, here's what I did very briefly. I connected a wire to the 3rd connector of the comfort control module (BCM) at Pin 35. This is the + for the lighting system module. Then i program that pin to operate as parking light (standlicht in Deutch) This way it provides power whenever the lights come on and I get exactly the result I want.

Meth injection and not using nitrous to clean it up anymore

Yes....its a flaw in right hand drive Octavia's.... 1) Unlock the car manually using the driver side door key lock. 2) Car alarm goes off. 3) Plug in a 12v battery pack into the battery lighter. 4) Switch on ignition, but don't start. 5) Unlock the car using the unlock button in the centre console. 6) Open passenger door and bonnet and replace battery as appropriate.

7Jx18 ET45 5/112 57.1 alloy rim TRINITY 57A071498 8Z8 (from Karoq) (12.9kg) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-trinity-18-karoq/p/57A071498++8Z8 Alcar 9383 8Jx18 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (13.26kg) (from Enyaq) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1313955427855111280&rimCode=ALCAR9383 https://www.oponeo.pl/felga-stalowa/alcar-kfz-9393#24387288 Wheel trim for 8Jx18 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Enyaq) 2 5LA601147 Wheel trim for steel rim 8Jx18 ET45 5/112 57.1 5LA601147 Z31 Bright chrome https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/ENY/1080/6/601/601010

I know, if I get a small coffee from Starbucks, it will go in just but with no sleeve, but not with the costa insulated cup. And squeezing two in means lids popping off. I’m hoping that some genius that has a 3d printer designs something for the gap behind that will hold two cups 😂🤣

Very helpful. Going to do it today.

Hi again... After a lot of search and thanks to a great guy from Netherlands VW club and Nefmoto forum (Bonny Gijzen) , maxidot cluster is installed!!!!! It is gorgeous, to say the least, compared to stock green LCD cluster... Bonny not only coded immo data, but also changed welcome screen to Skoda (cluster came from a VW UP) and corrected km... I also installed MFA buttons which worked straight away without even needing coding.. So ....here it is..... Maybe a moderator can change title to Maxidot cluster in 2015 Citigo..it is indeed possible...