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Check prices at Tayna.co.uk, you may find they're significantly better.

I was amused by this section of the user manual for my Octavia:

The additive I use has a thin extended neck that fits in and opens the gizmo

A possible check would be to check the tail pipe of your exhaust with your finger for oil. There shouldn't be any.

No plans to change. Mrs Gaz doesn't like me having two cars, so occasionally mentions selling it and her having my Golf, but she ain't getting her grubby little paws on it! Think I'll bite the bullet on the £118 one from Tayna Gaz

Check here with registration number https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/?ordering=&A-10=AGM

Thats because you are believing the kidology telling you the tank is close to empty with zero miles remaining, you in fact have another 7 litres of reserve capacity for the day you really need it. That said it wont affect your observations about reduced range as you are consistently filling up with the same amount of fuel.

After months of intermittent problems i finally found out what the problem is which may be of use to any other members with a similar problem. The intermittent failure to detect my keyfob at any distance turned out to be a cheap chinese plug in Bluetooth/FM Transmitter / Battery Monitor that i had plugged into the cigarette socket which i only used to monitor the battery voltage. It was transmitting a spurious signal with harmonics across the FM band and up into the 400mhz frequency that was acting as a signal blocker to the remote receiver for the keyfob . I had ocassionally unpluged the offending device so as not to drain the car battery and i had not spotted that this is when the keyfob range reduced massively . I tested the horrible device and it was sending signals all across the keyfob frequencies.

Cue all DSG owners demanding the 'missing' clutch pedal be retrofitted. 🤣

1. No Wiring goes from stalk switch to fuses 30 and 23 (both 10 amp fuses) for left and right main beam bulbs respectively. Check for voltage at these two fuseholders when main beam is selected on stalk. 1.2 Yes, e.g. ebay, but why do you think it needs replacement. Minor config coding required if it is changed, unless with an identical part number including suffix, and from a same-model car with exactly the same features. 2. Check bulbs first if you haven't. This thread has info on bulb types as well as fuses. The MkI Fabia Fuse Layout Post *updated with bulb types* - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA 3. Yes, with VCDS or registered copy of VCDS Lite, if that is what is happening. The self locking when parked (if a door has been opened since unlocking with button on keyfob) suggests there may be a problem with recognition of the door having been opened. This is often caused by problems with the microswitch, its wiring, or the solder joints of the connector on the lock module, on the side of the car where door opening isn't being 'seen'. Auto locking when in motion is related to a minimum speed being achieved (15kph?), rather than a time since departure; so a very slow crawl away from standstill may help to decide if it is or isn't the autolock function. 4. VCDS Lite, freeware downloadable from here: Ross-Tech: VCDS-Lite Download together with a laptop to put it on, and a third-party FTDI/KKL interface cable.

Excessive oil comsumption is usually two things on VAG cars: 1) Piston rings are worn / sticking and potentially if the car has lacked maintainance, then cylinder scoring is fairly terminal (unless you get the cylinder liners redone). Lets hope not. 2) Cylinder Head Gasket has failed - however, this will also cause pressurisation in the coolant system. Quick test - start the car and open up the lid of the coolant tank (when the car is cool otherwise scolding will occur) and see if there is pressure being pushed into the coolant tank (a good indicator will be bubbles in the coolant header tank). If so, highly likely the cylinder head gasket has failed. In all this, its REALLY important that you get this sorted above everything else. Otherwise you will just end up with a block DPF and a broken engine.

If regens happen normally there are no lights in the dash. DPF warning light comes on only when there are issues with regens. Basically it is made to be as unnoticiable as possible by Skoda. However, during active regen, while stopping ie. at traffic lights one might notice higher idle revs and possibly smell something is burning. Also in city driving higher revs / lower gears overall can be noticed And if you shut off the engine during active regen, the fan will stay on for some time and it smells like burning. Besides active regens, also passive regen happens during motorway driving, basically high enough load provides high enough temperature for some particle burning. With your driving, less active regens are needed. If the engine burns oil, dpf will suffer and needs more regens. Mpg drop and oil consumption together sound bad. Piston or piston ring problems perhaps? Low compression pressures due to piston (ring) damage would explain low mpg and how oil is burning. I hope this is not the case. Have you had fault codes read? There might be something pointing to right direction.

Maybe this? Looks like you just pull it. MK7 golf but close enough and bound to similar

Yes, the Battery Monitoring System needs to relearn a new profile for your new battery. It is highly recommended that you code in a new battery. Get hold of an ODBEleven dongle for your smartphone. That will allow you to code up a new battery and read all fault codes. The crank time doesn't seem overly long, so I don't think that's a major issue.

20 years old in March, and wow, what an absolute gem it's been. Just sayin'. Might have a party for it, and CAKE! It's just had a pressie anyway. Black Magic..... detail valet, and ceramic coating.🥰

Mine went a couple of days ago and not willing to simply fork out £££ for a new unit, which would also have needed coding in, and baulking at the £60+ most are asking just for a replacement ribbon cable, I checked out some Youtube videos on repairing it and decided it was no big deal so with nothing to lose I dived in. The hardest bit turned out to be scraping clean the fresh end of the cable in preparation for soldering but it only took patience a light touch with a new Stanley knife blade. Unlike any of the videos I watched I replaced the little white bridge piece, Start to finish the job took about 2.5 hours. I can post some links to relevant videos if anyone want's them.

Just a highly recommended DPF maintenance cleaner.

I feel like there’s need of a how-to 😁

It's not a bug when AA is set as a widget than the window is smaller delete the AA widget and AA is on the complete screen

That message says "Manoeuvre braking currently unavailable", so I think you have a problem with one or more of your parking sensors.

Important point - your Superb has the 1.4TSI ACT but no Octavia 3 has been built with the 1.4 TSI ACT - pre-facelift have the 1.4TSI non-ACT and the facelift have the 1.5TSI ACT

Well folks, I traded in my trust 1.9 octavia estate over 10 years ago and I have regretted it ever since....so finally I have purchased a 2011 fabia tdi in bright yellow and am hoping once I've got the parasitic battery drain fixed it will get my stepdaughter and my wife to school for the next 3 years...I'm excited to be fixing things again as I have done a lot of motor repair over the years..lets see what happens 😀

From Motor Authority newswire: Porsche is recalling 2,941 electric Macan crossovers because their headlights are too bright, which can reduce visibility for oncoming drivers and increase the risk of a crash. The recall includes 2024 and 2025 models manufactured between Mar. 15, 2024, Nov. 4, 2024. Headlight-control software in this batch of vehicles was programmed to European standards rather than U.S. standards, resulting in beams that exceed brightness levels specified in Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 108, according to the NHTSA. Good news that something somewhere is being done about too-bright headlamps but sad that apparently not in Europe, where it's obviously OK to fry the eyeballs of oncoming motorists. https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1145281_electric-porsche-macan-recalled-for-headlights-that-are-too-bright

Neither do I, your car seems to start quickly and correctly. I don't think anyone here can answer that without more info from you, like why do you believe you have a problem.

They certainly are!: ECP: Tayna: Gaz

How many more years might the car be kept? Operationally, they'll seem indistinguishable IMO.

Sir Keir Starmer MP / PM is speaking right now in Norway and signing agreements. Maybe he will learn more about things, and that the UK is not Norway, and neither is the UK London or just England.

So I picked up my new car last Friday (13th), and pleased to say 200 miles in all is good. Couple of interesting things on it that weren't immediately obvious (to me at least) Rear heated seats, mine seem to be locked by default meaning the rear passengers only have control in lowering the heat intensity (driver switches it on), however there is a radio button to unlock it on the main fan/heat adjustment page for rear. The massage seats are awesome, not too intrusive but a really nice feature. Having fully customizable LED interior lights is just wow! Now....the system info. Here's where mine differs:- Device part number ends 16B Software is 2630 Display Unit/Ctrl Panel Hardware is H42 Display Unit/Ctrl Panel Software is 4047 Radio database is 1.31.52 All other iterations the same. Mines the SEL 150 Diesel Auto, and the engine drives beautifully in auto (my first one), I prefer the pickup around town of sport mode. Ride and handling are firm but also nicely cushioned, I notice many of the enforced speed ramps that I have to travel through are dampened a lot better on this car than my old Superb which is just over 4 years old. The only thing that I'm yet to get set up perfect for me is the sound system, the speakers don't sound as luxurious as the ones in my old car, but I haven't had too much of a play yet and I know from past experience that getting the right bass/middle/treble combined with the right focus point (fader) is critical to getting the best out of it. The infotainment center is fast and snappy, and phone connectivity is quick....much quicker than the old model. Love the 15w wireless charger, that's a win. Car mats - the standard ones are ok. nothing more than that, but the ones I had for my old version don't quite fit (the size/shape is the same but the hole locations to secure are an inch or so different), also the boot tray that I rescued from my old car whilst it fits, it's not perfect, but it's better than leaving the carpet bare. The new little hangy shelf thing won't get used that much but seems like a good spot to put a brolly in which stops it rolling around in the cavern of the boot. Good to see as standard rear seat releases from the boot as well. Probably not the best spot for the majority of this post, so if admins want to reposition please go ahead. however I did want to report back on the software, and say that so far with 200 miles on the clock which is a mix of town and motorway driving I have had zero issues so far, despite tempting fate and picking it up on Friday the 13th

A large quantity of useful info is available here, including wiring info: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA

In first gear theres a slight vibration when setting off/biting point when it's cold. Not sure if that's a clutch or flywheel issue but let's see how far it takes me 😂

I've nicked this picture from another thread but I think I would be inspecting this plug and earthing point.

Since it is a 2024 car I wonder if there is new software. There is a report that version 1985 is the last version of the current software.

DQ250 DSG fine at 40,000 mile intevals. (There is no DSG servicing for a DQ200 @ 40,000 miles. ) Any Skoda TSI or TDI engine recommendation is not about 'Severe Conditions', Being used like a TAXI. Just why a Fixed Oil & Filter change should be used, 9,400 miles / 372 days or less and not a Variable Service Regime. 24 months , 18,000-20,000 miles. You can use VW 504 00 / 507 00 for fixed or Variable Oil changes, or just do not use Long Life oil, use the VW502 00 for fixed oil change intervals. 5w 40 fs.

On Audis with the same system, the nozzle is "extended" by pressure, which means there are no mechnical locks in place. The way we would work, say prep the car for paint, is to gently pull the nozzle out, you can do it manually, until is sufficiently out to grab it and, usually the cover is clipped in place. Once the cover 'clicks' in place, slowly lower the nozzle to its rest position. The key is to do all movements gradually, if you rush you can break the clip on the cover or worse, as one of the fellas in the workshop did, broke the bracket holding the nozzle .... bumper down and finding a replacement was a pain. I recently took off my wife's Lexus bumper for paint and the procedure was the same, with the different it had a metal slider clip - clever. EDIT: I forgot, I;ve neever tried on the Superb, I have to go to the garage now and will attempt and re-post tonight, but on the other cars it was enough just to patiently use fingers/nails to "catch" the edge of the cover, and then start the pull ... lighty so. If you have weak fingers or bite your nails, or the cover is very flush, a trim removal tool - plastic one, of course - can do the trick!

New high level brake light. The existing one always irritated me. It was cheap, and has faded and warped in the harsh New Zealand sun. Plus after it fell off the window due to useless sticky pads, I made improvised brackets from a bit of piano hinge I had laying round.

I have the car back. Working. And it appears that it wasn't a mechatronic fault - or at least the fault did not originate in the mechatronic. After a bit of a wait for a mechatronic, and then another mechatronic as the first one didn't solve the problem, and then a check of the clutch pack as the 2nd replacement mechatronic didn't solve the problem, and a full work through of the control wiring as the clutch pack was ok... the problem was tracked down to a failed synchromesh on 1st gear. Because 1st would engage, the mechatronic was signalling a fault. It's still unclear to me if the issue caused the mechatronic to fail, or just fail to operate, but rebuilding 1st gear in the box and putting back the 2nd replacement mechatronic has resulted in a working car. OK, it has taken rather longer than I would have liked, but it's fixed, and I have to say that in the end both the local dealership and Skoda have been very forward leaning in ensuring that it didn't hurt my wallet as much as it could have done.

In some countries outside Europe, the 16" option on the Rapid was 195/55R16 6Jx16 ET40 rather than 215/45R16 7Jx16 ET46 that the European Rapids were fitted with. The 195/55R16 6Jx16 ET40 option would give similar comfort levels to the standard 15" option, ie. 185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38. ET35, ET38, and ET40 offsets could all be considered with 6Jx16 rims fitted with 195/55R16 tyres. These rims are fitted to the Scala/Kamiq so there is plenty of choice. Steel 6Jx16 rims from the Scala/Kamiq are available with the ET35 and ET40 offsets, and 6Jx16 alloy rims from the Scala/Kamiq are available with the ET35 and ET38 offsets. 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 and 6Jx16 ET38 5/100 57.1 alloy rims (from the Scala/Kamiq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?q=%3AscoreDesc%3ArimDiameter%3A16%22%3AcarType%3AScala%2B%282019%2B%29%3AcarType%3AKamiq%2B%282019%2B%29&text=# Alcar 6664 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rim (from Scala/Kamiq) (7.44kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1077003525243802724&rimCode=ALCAR6664 Alcar 6977 6Jx16 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (from Scala/Kamiq) (7.44kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1087670437300671588&rimCode=ALCAR6977 Continental AllSeasonContact 2 195/55R16 87H (Euro label B B 71dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s7952p221968/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_195_55_R16_87H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Vredestein Quatrac 6 195/55R16 87H (Euro label C B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s7952p202114/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_195_55_R16_87H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Another option could be 195/60R15 on the standard 15" rims, ie. 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1. 195/60R15 is a slightly cheaper tyre size than 195/55R16, is slightly more comfortable than 195/55R16, and keeps the gearing closer to standard. Outside diameter of tyre 215/45R16 599.9mm 195/60R15 615mm (2.5% bigger outside diameter compared to 215/45R16) 195/55R16 620.9mm (3.5% bigger outside diameter compared to 215/45R16) 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 alloy rims (from Fabia MK3/Rapid) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?q=%3AscoreDesc%3ArimDiameter%3A15%22%3AcarType%3AFabia%2BIII%2B%282014%2B%29%3AcarType%3ARapid%2B%282012-2020%29&text=# Alcar 7760 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 steel rim (from Fabia MK3/Rapid) (8.02kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=799637973241959524&rimCode=ALCAR7760 Continental AllSeasonContact 2 195/60R15 88H (Euro label C B 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Continental/AllSeasonContact-2/195-60-R15-88H-EVc/R-496077 Vredestein Quatrac 6 195/60R15 88H (Euro label C B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m138b0s7993p202144/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_195_60_R15_88H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB One other option for the 15" rim, is 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 from the Fabia MK4. At just 6.6kg for the Alcar 4055 steel rim this is a particularly light rim. Compared to a 6" rim width, a 0.5" narrower 5.5" rim width will slightly improve the ride comfort further with the 195/60R15 tyre size. Alloy rims from the Fabia MK4 are also available in this specification and although not quite as light as the 6.6kg steel rim, 7.2kg is still quite light. 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 alloy rim (from Fabia MK4) (7.2kg) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-hadar-15-fabia-iv/p/6VA071495A+FL8 Alcar 4055 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (from Fabia MK4) (6.6kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1360399348768339044&rimCode=ALCAR4055 Set of four wheel trims for 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rims 6VA071455 (from Fabia MK4) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-calisto-15/p/6VA071455

I had a beige 1.3 Marina Coupe for a couple of years. I remember there were plastic bushings on the front suspension that wore out every few thousand miles leading to an irritating rattle. Not difficult to change but got boring having to do it on holiday in Wales in pouring rain! Never let me down but it really was very, very basic motoring with no redeeming features that I can remember. Eventually had the money to swap it for a VW Polo, slow as a snail but at least it didn’t rattle.

I've done it on my front and rear sway bars bushes with marine grease. No more creaking / squeeking... It lasted roughly a year. I've done it again when I put winter wheels on.

I am almost done with the materials. Here the most important. Left radar 2Q0907685H Right radar 2Q0907686H (master) Bracket on the left 5E6907456A Bracket on the right 5E6907457A Connectors for radars [2pcs] 1J0973714 and pins 000979038 Plastic nuts for brackets N91018901 [4pcs] I desided to do the 100% retrofit, so i bought mirror caps and the LED warning lights: Mirror caps Black Mirror Cover Kit with Indicator Holes 5E30722530C F9R LED warning lights for side mirrors Left 5E6949145 LED warning lights for side mirrors Right 5E6949146 I searched a lot to find the name (code) for the LED warning light connector. Finally i found it: Connectors for LED warning lights MX19002S51 [2pcs] And a pair of connectors, for the wiring inside the front doors: Connectors for door wiring to mirror: 1J0973119 [2pcs] & 1J0973332 [2pcs] Next step: The wiring (i desided to do it myself).

More important to sort the Oil excessive consumption then since 3 litres of oil costs more than 2 gallons of diesel.

We need a code scan done. Please find a local user with either VCDS (genuine) or ODBEleven, do a full code scan and post your output here.

This is obviously worrying. I suppose we really need a couple of things (of information). 1) What type of journeys do you do? Long or short - are you a progressive or eco-warrier in terms of your driving style 2) When was the car last serviced? 3) When you say you put in oil every 2-3000 miles, how much oil and what type of oil are you using? Things to check: a) Fuel Injectors - they tend to get a bit dodgy after 120,000 miles. b) DPF - my biggest concern is that you may have a block DPF. When was the last time your car did a full/long/hard regen? Can you either invest (or go find somebody with) - either a genuine VCDS or ODBEleven scanner - get a scan done and post it here pls?

As Carbon Dioxide Grows More Abundant, Trees Are Growing Bigger, Study Finds https://e360.yale.edu/digest/carbon-dioxide-climate-change-bigger-trees

The skoda brand sd card is for your maps ,which can be updated by going to the skoda portal on the interweb ,as for other updates ive never updated mine 2016 vrs in the six years years ive owned it as it all works perfect and ime not sure if the updates actually change anything you can see ,i think its for if your having issues ,but could be wrong ,wiser folk will be along to help .

I also have 4 cars from VW group that has seen their share of repairs, maintenance. My 2 cents is when a car passes beyond 200'km or 160'miles, it is better to do preventive maintenance as you listed than to wait. Because from 200-250'km things start to break down. At least here in norway. So, I do all my repairs myself in own garage with ****load of tools and a big scissor lift. So, i probably saves a lot of money and time to worry if car will breal down during holiday/vacation trips. Anyway, on VAG cars, also Skoda as it is a VAG car, from 250'km I would replace the following if I bought a old car with that high mileage in addition to what you have on your list: 1. All suspensions and maybe springs as well with new nuts/bolts and dampers. They will probably fail anytime soon or has already failed but you haven't noticed it 2. Complete dmf and pilot bearing together with crank seal gearbox side. Its a guarantee fail very soon of never replaced. Maybe you have som rattling already? 3. EGR cooler. Its just stupid not to replace it when doing dmf. Will fail soon and just when you least want/expect it. 4. Manifold flaps and do clean the throttle valve please. Just open ot up and see, I bet it is clogged as f....and also do the mod on the intake from the exhaust pipe into the egr valve. 5. Replace all glow plugs, likely a fail if not already on 1 or more. 6. Replace all stabilisator link from suspension strut to stabilisator. 7. Check the level of diff oil on front rear diff (if 4x4) and clean the haldex pump, house replace haldex oil and filter. 8. Replace dsg thermostat (located under/beside battery tray) 9. Replace engine thermostat (typical fail on vags when above 250'km) 10. Buy door locks and rear door lock actuator, maybe also fuel flap filler actuator since these do fail when reaching 300'km (just keep them stored until the day you need them) 11. Heater core os a known problem, so it is possible to have this in store as well. 12. Also check the nut on the AC compressor as tjese a known to fail (the get loose over time until failure). If nut/bolt is loose, just tighten it to specs. What I would't care about: Everything that has to do with appearence like styling, rims etc. On a old high mileage car, those things should come as 2nd priority. Worry about what matters 😉

Just seen these warnings have now dissapeared from both the app and online shop...

Make & Model: Skoda Yeti 2.0 TDI 170ps 4x4 6 speed manual Laurin & Klement Colour: Jungle Green metallic Mileage: 114,000 Price: [SOLD] Description: Our family transport, a much loved Skoda Yeti - owned by us since September 2018. This is the top spec L&K so has pretty much everything you could want. This car originally belonged to @Gizmo so has been in the club from BRAND NEW. Any chance we can keep the car in the club? This has been an amazing car, and was my wife's dream car - but sadly she's now fallen in love with the idea of a Jaguar iPace so the Yeti has to go to a new home. With this car being the 170ps L&K it has pretty much everything you could ever want. My favourite parts are the panoramic sunroof (WHICH DOES NOT AND HAS NEVER LEAKED IN OUR OWNERSHIP), the brown leather heated seats memory function (so my wife has her position programmed to her key, and I have my seat position programmed to mine), and of course the off-road button which means it can tackle pretty much anything you throw at it. Condition: Used - very good Minor mark on the rear silver bumper trim. Other minor age related marks but overall in excellent condition and well above average for a 114k mile car Sun roof does not leak and has never leaked Couple of minor marks on the wheels, but again - very good for the age. I give them a polish & wax before I put them away every winter Everything in good working order to the best of my knowledge, including ice cold air conditioning Note: currently sat on winter wheels & tyres which can be negotiated as part of the sale This car has NEVER had the emission "fix" recall done, so it's 100% reliable and does not suffer from frequent EGR failure like most do! 2 keys Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Maintained regardless of cost Folder full of receipts, including original purchase invoice and ALL receipts under our ownership Originally serviced on flexible schedule, with Skoda dealer under @Gizmo ownership and since then we've had it serviced on fixed service schedule by an independent VW group specialist. Last service May 2024 at 104k miles - it's just pinged up that it's due in the next 800 miles on mileage, so will try and get this done before the sale Cam belt & water pump in October 2023 Haldex February 2022 MOT until June 2025 Front wishbone bushes in 2023 New rear brakes & caliper in October 2023 due to binding caliper Summer tyres are 2x Hankook Prime, 2x Michelin Primacy - I will get depths when I can Winter tyres are 2x Nokian WR-D4, 2x Bridgestone Blizzak - I will get depths when I can Repairs under our ownership: Replacement driver's headlight due to LED failure New fuel filler cap actuator New clockspring Firmware re-flashed onto the Columbus head unit Extras: Rear mud flaps Tyre pressure monitoring Electrically adjustable memory driver's seat Spare wheel Heated washer jets Luggage nets in the boot Columbus unit updated to latest maps We also have the following for sale which I'm happy to negotiate into a deal: A set of winter tyres on steels and genuine Skoda hub caps (which the car is currently on) Genuine Skoda roof bars Genuine Skoda reversible boot mat Fluffy Yeti teddy Collection: Derbyshire, UK In daily use until, will be available on 12th December when we get our new car Photos are all from this year but when I get chance after the storm has passed, I will give it a clean and take some fresh and more detailed pictures.

Took delivery of a brand new Sportline plus 190 TSI today- hatch version in meteor grey. Looks absolutely stunning and first thoughts on the drive are that it all seems nice and firm without being too harsh. No rattles unlike my previous A6 which buzzed and rattled like a mad thing on rough roads - hopefully stays this way! The petrol engine sounds and feels great, nice and smooth. Feels like it wants to go like stink mind you, which I've not done yet! Virtual cockpit and ambient lights look fabulous as do the animated front and back lights. Also love the illuminated Skoda projected from the door undersides. Took it easy on the 55 mile journey back home, a mix of motorway and town driving and got a very respectable 42.8mpg, considering the heating, lights and heated seats were all on! I know this will dip during town driving and I'm not going to get obsessed with it, but as I said in the OP if i get an overall average of 40ish I'll be quite happy with that. No more adblue and regens- and a much nicer quieter engine. I'm really delighted to have adaptive cruise back - had it on my old L&K but didn't have it in the A6. When I hit traffic tonight, I stuck it on and let the car do the work. Really missed that. Thanks to all for your advice on this thread and others, and it's great to be back in the Skoda fold!

Interesting. My dealer said the noise I was experiencing was from the anti-roll bar bushes which, when replaced, solved the bloody annoying creaking once and for all? How odd that the model could suffer two noisy suspension components.