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It's an obvious point but it's important to note that Euro NCAP continuously make the test tougher. Something that got 5 stars a few years ago might not get any today. Doesn't exactly mean the car isn't safe, just that cars are as a general rule getting ever safer.

Lithium (Nickel Manganese Cobalt the common type), we are warned not to charge and leave unused at over 80 %. Even my new Samsung S24 phone now does that ie only charges to 80%. As I understand it when pure lithium batteries are very full they do not like standing around and experiencing decreases and increases in temperature. Same for phones and all our other straight forward Lithium, NMC, batteries. Some good youtube videos on the actual chemistry taking place. Blowing up is rare but longevity much harmed by wacking them up to 100% frequently and not letting the discgarge down. We are told that neither leaving the highly or very low charged is good for longevity. Lithium Iron Phosphate, so also principally a lithium battery is quite different as it does not mind going to 100% oft but it has lower energy density but also cost. These packs have been pierced with stakes and still to to short circuit so seem much safer than lithium NMC batteries. Sodium batteries are starting to come through as also cheap and work better in cold conditions. Mixing NMC, LFP and Na is thought to be a good solution to cost and temperature performance going forward, maybe more ultra capacitors too like we have in the regen systems.

Dog pi55.

This is called "state of charge drift", google it. As multiple variables change, the BMS re-evaluate its SoC estimate. Got to remember SoC you see is an estimate of energy in the battery. It is much better than miles guess-o-meter because there's less variables involved but it's still an estimate. The only time SoC is accurate is when you charge the car to 100%. The charging logic monitors cell voltages and stop charging at its defined cell voltage limit. At this point the SoC reporting 100% can be considered accurate. Doing is also calibrates the BMS logic so that it knows the battery is full. When this happens, It is worth charging to 100% if you know you'll use the car soon. This recalibrates the BMS logic then you shouldn't see SoC drift until it gets itself confused again. There is nothing to worry if you want to leave the car at 100% charged. It wouldn't magically gain 2% and there is no increased chance of self-combust. The reason people say don't leave Li-on battery at 100% for too long is to prevent accelerated degradation. Cells chemically degrade quicker when being under more stress. Li-on cells are least stressed at 3.7v, which is typically around 50% for most Li-on chemistry. All of above is why LFP tend to have more cycle life, because it has a very flat cell voltage. This means the cells are not under stress most of its life. But LFP also require regularly charging to 100% to re-calibrate SoC logic because BMS uses coulomb counting during that flat voltage part, easy to loose accuracy. SpeakEV folks will be able to give much better explanation than me, probably also find areas I'm not explained correctly. I suggest you pose these sort of technical questions there.

I found the same - my Diesel Octavia estate 2005 is without doubt the best car I have ever owned. Yes, it's diesel but goes like the clappers and gives me 43 on local running - just did 1600 miles driving up to Scotland, visiting rellies and driving back and it gave me 53 mpg. Can't fault it for comfort and efficiency. So I share your pain getting rid of yours. Chin up!

I tend to live with it unless targeted by flying muck spreaders. I avoid automated car washes but will give the Octavia a hose-down, then a bucket wash, pacing myself, maybe three times a year.

I have got slightly more "efficient" with my car washing and a little less obsessive, though I still try and wash it weekly. I use the "two bucket" method less frequently, hosing down my wash mitt when it gets particularly soiled. I only wax & polish on very nice sunny days when I make a day of it. I stop and chat to neighbours & friends I've made over the years chatting to people was they walk past my drive when I'm washing my car. I usually don't dry my car after washing, I use a spray and shine treatment and just hose it off. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/CarPlan-CWR005-Trade-Valet-Hi-Wax/dp/B00MW68QHY ) I haven't changed my obsession with cleaning out nooks and crannies, though. Window rubbers are a particular obsession with me. I also like to keep it nice under the bonnet. The general public might not appreciate it, but I suspect my mechanic realises that he's looking at a car that is loved and cared for. TL:DR I lowered my standards to match my lower energy.

So slide the top cover on the two back and you'll suddenly have 4 cup holders in the front. Should be big enough for your coffee then

Tdi is listed in the title mate. DSG. Mix of city and highway, rarely in stop/start traffic. 200k on the odo and been serviced every 10k since the beginning of its life. Going to delete dpf and egr shortly and see if there is any improvement but from all accounts via VCDS, there are no problems…

Yeah, not good! More detail would be useful, so people know rather than assume. Diesel or petrol (I 'assume' diesel), manual or auto, distance on odometer, ownership history including any fixes, servicing history, has consumption always been bad or a recent phenomenon, typical driving patterns, location in Aus (ie Brisbane is recognised as having the worst traffic conditions), how does the car drive??? Do for starters but others will probably seek more to try and help you.

Handbags at dawn is it, lads?

Greetings, I just wanted to say thank you to this forum for helping me out in the past. I’ll be attempting to sell my 2012 Octavia Estate privately next week as I’ll be getting a used 2020 model instead. I’m moving away from diesel to petrol as well which is insane considering the miles I do but I can’t shake the fact that diesel seems to be a tax target that’s likely going to get worse. Frankly this has been the best car I’ve ever had. Amazing what regular serving can achieve. I doubt the petrol version will give me 249500k 😝 See you in the MK3 area

TT?

Three options - lights on the boot, the rear screen seal and the rear wiper grommet (the latter was the issue on my Kodiaq.

Are you thinking small car again or something bigger? Dependable choice - Older Polo GTI Fun but risky - £8k Fiesta ST and keep the change in the bank for when it wants an engine

Glad to be able to help.

No it stays on or off as set. I leave it on but for sometimes switch off so it creeps on tickover useful when parking in tight spots.

https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0359T#details 0480 latest

@Luckypants Do you not have the options to set the stuff like Heated Seats / Heated Steering wheel to come on at your chosen Ambient temp as the MINI Countryman can? I had to chose driving one as 'A guest' because the regular driver had them come on even if it was well above freezing temperatures. (It might have been 11*oC as it was shirt sleeve weather.)

Only if you put it there

Well, the stealership certainly saw your mate coming from some miles off!

Always a good idea to do that especially if they are not going to be used for a while, reduces the chance of condensation forming on the walls of the tank and contaminating the fuel.

I usually start off with good intentions.... However, a busy life. A few months ago I got a new Karoq in Velvet Red and was offered a ceramic coating... I went for that. It doesn't seem to get as dirty and is far easier to jet wash at home. It just needs rinsing and that is it. You don't put wax/polish on a ceramic coating. So once a month is sufficing over the winter. I would recommend ceramic coating on a new car.

Your selling garage is - I believe, deliberately dragging feet and not responding properly to the complaint. My suggestion a while ago was return within 30days if you can but certainly you want the complaint registered within 6 months as that is the statutory protections where the fault is to have assumed to existed at purchase... That plug doesn't look great. I think it's burning a fair bit of oil. Not all use oil. Mine's done 92k miles now and still using about 1litre in 3000 miles. But I had a gen 2 that used virtually none in 6k miles. And the gen 3 is supposed to be better. Mine is also leaking some oil especially on the valve cover internal wells and back of engine and possibly weeping on head gasket in some places as well although it is hard to distinguish if the source is the valve cover on back of engine due to access and turbo. Not much visible with an IS38 in an golf r. There should be photos of my plugs on here in various threads. If you want me to repost, let me know but you don't need to see mine to know that one doesn't look great at all. It is so black everywhere = carbon burning....

Ended up being the valve on the side of the charge cooler. Had it done at my local Vag Indy as its a pig of a job!

Thanks for your concern but I've seen first hand how well the Swift performs in an accident and that the safety kit on the version I have exceeds that on the NCAP test car(s), so I have no worries about using it with any of my family in it. I was also involved in a major motorway pile up on the M1 near London many years ago in a Mitsubishi Colt hatchback, well before NCAP was a thing, and it too performed well with none of the modern tech on-board, so again I have no real interest in what appear to be slightly flawed / skewed NCAP scores. In fact I believe you've said similar comments in other posts elsewhere regarding the Renault 5 and your Zoe:

That rear diffuser is not going to meet EU Type Approval is it? Not even meet a IVA in the UK.

OBDII devices only read generic OBD fault codes which are common across all manufacturers, the code will be generic if the second digit after the first letter symbol is 0, these are mainly concerned with emissions and safety systems. VCDS (and others) unlike OBDII can communicate with all the Canbus modules and read all of the manufacturer and vehicle/engine specific codes stored within unseen by OBDII readers, it can do far more than that but that is beyond the scope of your question. Which VCDS is

It was assembled in second week of December 2024. Delivered at dealership at 12 of January 2025. I grab it at 25 of January 2025. Will ask that now. Thanks

Are these locks really still needed? The Karoq is far less of a target than other older cars or high value cars, where it is worth the risk. This is what the stats show (2018-24). The older hatches get stolen (fords, golfs etc) or the high value Range Rovers, Mercs etc. Looking at the Confused.com theft risk calculator, there have only 50 Karoq thefts in the last 7 years! I would bet that is through someone boosting the key fob signal. If the keys are kept in an RFID pouch, keyless entry is forestalled. If they are going to steal the keys then they are going to steal the keys for the lock too Or just wait for you to turn up at the car and unlock it, then take it.

https://media.renault.com/renault-5-turbo-3e-legend-reborn-as-a-production-model/

If the indicator isn't working as well, I'd think maybe the connector to the left headlamp assembly has come loose?

Sorry @travs, I just saw vegarz's post above of yours.

Just concerned for a fellow Briskodian's well being. I was shocked when the Zoe got no stars in EuroNCAP and spotted it was down to the new safety systems that really marked down one of my cars down. Just so we are all aware of the the facets of modern EuroNCAP and can make informed choices and what we drive and with whom in the car. I would not drive with my daughters or granddaughter in the Zoe when I have the Scenic on the drive. One daughter survived a major motorway pile up near you near at Woodall services, only the boot area was uncrumpled, soft tissues damage after being hit by a 32 tonne rigid truck and the a 7 series BMW. That was is a Mk 4 Clio which has good crash scores and I got her a replacement one of those as she and I was so impressed with it. Life is for living and being a motorcyclist, as well as a car driver, doing tens of thousand of miles a year, and fly quite a bit, I live with degrees of risk. (RIP David Lynch).

Cold the afternoon but a glorious sunset..........

Skoda / VW videos in the past have shown all different colours going through the paint tunnels and changing the spray guns from car to car.

Channels vary according to the model and engine type, no point in quoting a number, also the descriptions change often akin to a cryptic crossword puzzle clue. Looking through the thousands of channels which only present a few at a time in a miniscule text box I can find a dozen if not more for the same parameter with varying descriptions, only one of which will have data for my vehicle the others bring up nothing. Same deal with quoting values, they units change and often the data will not even correspond to the supposed unit of measure. Other than doing further investigation led by fault codes I would look at DPF differential pressure (back pressure) the measured not calculated value of soot compared to how many kms since last regen which will probably be shown as meters despite the units being kms, ignore the ash reading be it volume or weight as its a fantasy estimated figure and may have been reset to zero in the past.

You hit the nail on the head there, and most of the EV owners who post on here cannot see or even acknowledge that they are in most cases in a far more privileged position than a large percentage of the population, seeing as EV's were and in reality are still way more expensive than a decent ICE car. Yes there are a few more affordable electric cars, but they are small, and very basic compared to ICE cars of the same value.

What version of firmware do you have? The SOS function can be a bit....tempremental....I've found that an MIB firmware update usually settled it down.

i solved the problem with a emergency recovery and the firmware must be the same when the unit was stuck... now works perfect, no errors, no problem

£222 it's listed as on Rosstech website, there are other distributers though. It is essential kit and without it you might as well ask us to guess what colour underwear you are wearing!

Just so you know, ACC is designed for use on motorways and dual carriageways, not slow roads with sharp bends that can cause the car in front to suddenly ‘disappear’ from the view of the radar. You’re discovering all the use-cases that ACC was never designed for and complaining that it can’t handle them. Essentially, it sounds like you’re expecting ACC to be akin to autonomous driving, which it really isn’t - perhaps the full-on self-driving abilities of a Tesla would suit you better?

So, the end of it was that the matrix failed. It was clogged from about halfway across. Took a little hour to swap it. Plenty of space with the knee airbag removed and fairly easy actually. O-rings and clamps looked very good, so i kept them. Tip to anyone finding this, is to remove the coolant hose behind the right front wheel to practically remove everything in the system before disasmbling.

It's on the touchscreen. No physical button.

For this reason, I bought a £25 portable, battery-powered inflator that can also be powered from the 12V cigarette lighter outlet – and when the cord is not long enough, you have the battery. It can be charged via USB-C. There is a plethora of these Chinese-made ones available under different brands.

I cut the bottom off mine so I could fill it out of a big 20 litre bottle. Did that for 5 years with no problems

Really struggled to get a picture of it clean, so instead I've taken a quick couple of pics when the sun just popped out, whilst away camping for the night 🏕️ it's an awesome car

Of the 4 holders in the front none are OK?

Hi, can't delete post above but hopefully helpful to any one else searching for an answer...I've had a proper look at figures and see that the OTR price is inclusive of discounts on the order form so I shall be paying extra car tax! I do think it should have been uprated with inflation since inception, 40k isn't a lot these days!

Sounds like either an engine mount is on the way out or someone has fitted a stiffer one. There was a report recently about a car that had the idle speed turned down a little. Raising it back up solved the issue.