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This week i finally found an original windscreen on ebay from what turned out to be a briskoda member. For whatever reason, the previous owner of my car didn't believe in new wiper blades, leading to lots of scratch marks that made driving at night a challenge on it's own. With the new glass i can finally see properly. Important to note that i did not need a camera calibration. Lane assist, tsr and smart light assist work even better than before. Also the top connector ribbon for the heated screen only needs the dome light cluster prying out gently from the side. The whole plastic piece including the sunglass holder can stay in place

I have done a bolt tightening (tension) course at work and was very surprised how much a thread lube (coppaslip, etc) makes a difference to the tightness of a joint. Different lubes have different friction values which have to be taken in consideration too. I'm sure I's seen vids on YouTube (Torque Test Channel) that also prove it too. I'm never sure if wheel nuts should be lubed or done dry. I'm guessing the latter. Depending on how old your torque wrench is, it's 89/90 lb ft, in old money! My big torque wrench is so old it doesn't do NM.

Thanks for the information on checking the battery manufacturing date. I've checked mine and it looks to be the original battery as it has 29 15 on the negative pole to the battery, so not quite 10 years old as it appears to be made in July of 2015 but still not bad going. I have bit the bullet and ordered up an new battery as for the faults I have with the car at the moment. I have since bought an OBDeleven scanner and have done a scan and about a dozen faults were shown some were intermittent but about half were reading as low voltage to different sensors and bulbs but they are working, hopefully a new battery will clear some of them atleast fingers crossed. If anyone is thinking of buying a new battery shortly I ordered a Bosch S5A08 70AH 760A from Battery group as I looked at Tayna batteries as recommended on here but I did some looking around at prices and the Battery group site came out cheaper for the same battery by about £14 cheaper with standard delivery as they had a 10% code off at the moment, i'm not sure how long that will last as it said it was ending soon. The Battery group is a slower delivery service they quote 2 to 4 days on there standard delivery so unless you need it quicker and then Tayna would be the better option as it's next day but will cost you a little bit more. I was looking at the Varta battery as thats whats on the car but the bosch is the equivalent and I have read up they are made in the same factory and the Varta is more expensive on both sites. Thanks again for all the replys I appreciate the help.

https://www.classicandsportscar.com/features/buyers-guide-audi-quattro The "Trouble Spots" section is an incomplete list of expensive things I've fixed

Haldex maintenance required change only oil, but i asked additionally clean also filter and weren't wrong with that 28.8 kKm

I presume they were referring to the charcoal canister, a part of the evaporative emissions equipment. An unusual failure point and definitely not a service item. Liquid fuel does not go through it.

That's easy. If you go into Profiles, you will find that the individual keys fobs are configured differently. One opens up all doors, one only opens up the front door.... So - take the key that only opens up the front door, unlock it, get in - go to the MIB system, and go to Vehicle, settings, keys and fobs and set it to unlock ALL doors. Problem solved.

You don't have to pay anything. MartiniB top post should be the current which tallies with what you have downloaded from what you said. Formatting, getting it in the route directory unzipped and suitable. Yes should install after a period. The only issues are technical issues if usb a to c adaptors are used. Formatting and generally messing it up. It can take a couple of hours or a couple of days... you check the information screen to see whether it's been updated to the map release mm.yy as MartiniB posted. That changes and you know it's done.

For short circuit protection purposes whoever moved the cover to the positive terminal was a wise person.

Thanks for all the comments and information. So if it's only stiffer in sport mode then it will be ok. The problem still is that I'm not able to test run it before buying I will have to consider if I should take it.

Never powder coat your legs. It will end in tears...

Hello, welcome to the forum. I think that is for the left/right park light - to display side lights on just one side. That function is normally found on the indicator stalk. To confirm, does the stalk move up/down as well as forward/back?

The EFB was in the old Superb. The 10 year old battery is AGM. Probably wasn’t clear from my original post, but I knew what I meant 😁

Or buy another cover and protect both.

Thanks mate I'll give it a look... Wylee is pronounced same as "wile e coyote..." From the road runner cartoons...

Thanks for that. Very helpful. I've just checked the negative terminal and it's stamped 05-15, so end of January. The car was registered on 3rd March 15, so it would appear to be original. I will give it a charge tomorrow, as it isn't being used much at the moment. In fact it hasn't been used much since the last owner traded it in last August. The battery seems to be holding up well, as the start-stop seems to work whenever I forget to turn it off 😀

Aye ...... You have to do it in a particular fashion. Drive a particular (minimum iirc) distance, with engine running iirc, level ground (obvs) maybe one or other specifics and await while it does it's check, for a reading. Certainly not as simple as just lifting bonnet and pulling out dipstick eh, Lol.

Can you 'solar charge' an EFB/AGM battery ?????? https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/askhj/answer/143846/my-car-has-a-stop-start-feature-can-i-use-a-solar-charger-on-the-battery- I regularly used a 4 watt solar charger in my old Octy, what with it being a (DPF free) diesel and not doing long journeys. Doesn't really charge the battery as such more that it prevented it losing charge by covering it's parasitic drain.

Thanks. Wouldn't it be great if Skoda made that clear in the owner's manual...

And have you checked that they are on the correct sides of the car, since I posted that photo showing how it looks like they might be possible to fit on the wrong sides? A photo from below with a phone camera at arms length might be enough to see.

Do you always indicate when changing lanes? If not, try and see if it makes a difference.

Did I understand correctly that you have changed the lower arm balljoints? That's what I understood from your statement below Not sure because just yesterday you quoted me but then showed a photo of the track rod end, not the lower arm balljoint? Did you change these: or not?

Yep, just the shaft, unless there are other bits on the whole leg that might come in useful?

Thanks for sharing.

Looks like left driveshaft part number is 6R0407763E currently. Secondhand via ebay may be best bet for a quickish result.

Can you message me with VIN or reg plate?

Bazz lift your cap a little at the front and read the Owner's Manual for your car and you could save yourself a lot of time and hassle and money from unnecessary visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians - and be able to drop your windows as much or little as you want. From the Owner's Manual for a 2023 Fabia - "Press the control down and the window opens automatically. Pressing the control again will stop the opening process." - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

If anybody expects 100% bug free car in terms of electronics and infotainment from VAG then I really suggest to get back money and choose different cars. Even if you will have a "good" car there will always be some a small thing once or couple of times a year like blind spot LED blinking for no reason while driving empty road, SOS unavailable, infotainment hang, wireless AA or Carplay issue, travel or radar bug notification even with clean sensors and camera etc.

On the Octavia 3 SmartLink is wired only, have you tried connecting your phone to the USB socket under the heater controls?

Brand is not important . Oil to spec VW 504 00 /507 00. So 5w 30 FS III for fixed or variable oil change interval for a TDI..

You don’t have to have a valid MOT to drive a vehicle to a prebooked MOT! probably only helps if you rebook an MOT somewhere who quote you a much more reasonable price to change the shocks if they are actually required! I would ask to look at them myself too or see pictures of the fault too to see if their opinion is “honest”

There is usually a date stamp into the top face of the negative terminal, format is WWYY. Stamp matching production year would indicate battery is probably original.

PM

Some places that change batteries can do it for you, possibly at an additional cost. Or there is a train of thought that some apply that if the new battery is the same type as previously fitted (and 'coded') and the same Ah rating, or near enough, that the system will sort things for itself. Some have posted on this site they have done that and things have been fine x-number of years later. Whether over the long term the battery life is shorten would take time and circumstances to tell. I don't think there's too much of a panic that the new battery must be 'coded' instantly it's installed. If you have the facilities available then it makes sense to 'code' the replacement battery but if you buy a scan tool only to 'code' the battery in then it doesn't make financial sense if that costs more than getting someone else to do it. There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other tools that can 'code' the battery in, and do scan tool reports, delete error codes and some a lot more. Most just want beer tokens, a few are professional services so want different renumeration. A link to a list of those members at the end. Who ever does the 'coding' like all data input it has to be accurate, one member posted that his professional auto-electrician put 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah which gave the replacement battery a short life (why VW's computer program allowed this error is beyond me). It's important to put the type of battery (EFB/AGM) the (correct) Ah rating and change the "serial number", as illustrated below when a Briskoda member 'coded' my AGM replacement battery (VW call AGM "fleece", of course they do!) for me with his OBDEleven. ETA: battery manufacturer is of no importance, as you can see I didn't even bother sticking with VW's three letter code, also as you can see the factory didn't bother with a real "serial number" on my wife's car or others that have been posted. List of VCDS and others owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

Looks original to me - the 7P0... under 'VARTA' is the part number.

The purchase of a flat cap is advised for morning starts when the windows keep misting up. Cracking open the front window as soon as you get in and whacking up the heater seems the best solution. Unfortunately, the electric window zooms up and down. If only you could set it to stop at a position leaving around an inch gap. I know now why Skoda drivers I passed in my youth drove at 30mph on the motorway and wore flat caps. The flat cap provides welcome protection from icy drafts. I seem to have joined that club.

Indeed and as an owner of a 66 plate (MY2016) Monte Carlo (the same car as the OP) I can confirm there is no clutch interlock switch on this model of Citigo.

Petrol engine has 150 BHP. Even when the battery goes flat it works as a normal hybrid and regenerates some battery and then helps the petrol engine. I think I did a 300+km drive on a motorway before the battery was at 0%.

My information matches what @Kenny R said.

I Have Sport Chassis Control on Kamiq MY20

As far as I understand, switching to sports mode only changes the dynamics of the shock absorbers, the car does not lower itself. The Monte Carlo sports chassis control suspension is lowered 10 mm on the Kamiq and 15 mm on the Scala.

Most Octavia's will be getting to the stage where they need a new battery. This is because most modern batteries have a life span of about 5 years before they need replacing. My usual rule of thumb: if the CCA test is 20% below the battery capacity, its on its way out. e.g. if you have a battery of 680CCA it shows below 544CCA, then it is probably time to start looking at replacements. I got a cracking deal on a new Varta battery (ironically made in the Czechia), its a 70Ah capacity. Just a case of coding in the new battery.

Today OTA update arrived in my car 25.1

My wife got a bottle of champagne! 🍾

Finally, had a safety recall done last week to repair insulation on the main battery (it's an iV). My local garage, Meadens in Brockenhurst, Hants, are literally at the end of my road, couldn't do it as they are the wrong 'level' of services, don't have the kit, nor the training. So after a long wait it went to Skoda Winchester some 40 miles away. They discharged the battery, dropped it out, did the recall work, and put it back together. Two days, excellent communication and service. But then they found they couldn't re-energise the battery, the pre-cursor to charging it. Interrogated the car computer, and found several identical fault reports going back to July last year that the charging control unit was faulty. I have had charging issues, spoken to Meadens, who blamed the supplied cable. Meadens have had the car several times since last July, normal service, software upgrade after a nav fault, and faulty SOS module which they replaced after it started making random calls. Each time they've plugged the computer in. That's how they diagnosed the SOS unit failure. But not once have they told me the charger control unit was faulty, nor tried to address it. Winchester even had to argue that it was covered by my extended warranty, and fortunately won, its a £2000 part. So well done Winchester and back on the road in six days. But Meadens really let me down. I queried this and had an email about having to drain the coolant to diagnose the charger unit issue as if that makes the difference. So I have asked them again to explain. Either did they miss it (unprofessional and incompetent) or did they ignore it and fail to tell me (negligent and destroys my trust). Maybe it too was beyond their service level, but surely it should be communicated to me. Even my service record from this Feb fails to mention any issues and gives a clean bill of health. Or another reason. What would you do or think? Should I use Meadens (who we've bought four new cars from over the years, such is my trust) again...should others trust them? UPDATE: July 9. Heard back, some apologies for lack of comms, but basically they can't remember, long time ago, claim it's undocumented, and as trust has broken down, could I use another dealer henceforth. They say I only complained when I had a problem. Duh?! So no proper explanation, and sacked by Meadens. Actually had reached the same conclusion about their failings, so after four cars bought and serviced there, ta ta.

Just (belatedly!) read this thread… very alarming , especially since I’ve been looking at buying cars from Meadens! IMHO this needs to go to Skoda UK - they keep tabs on dealer performance & this might be the trigger for enforcing dealer standards! It also seems to me incredibly short-sighted to “sack” you since - as anyone with a marketing background knows - it takes years to create a good reputation but seconds to break one! As is always the case one unhappy customer tells everyone who”ll listen whereas satisfied customers only tell their friends! Have you been communicating with the dealer principal as my understanding is this exec has responsibility for the franchise relationship & not just the relevant department(s)?? Best of luck!

I was also looking for a PDF version of the manual The links above no longer work. I have found the following https://www.manuals.co.uk/skoda/octavia-iv-2020/manual Hope this helps someone.

That are the spots I sprayed.. and the mounting panel is quiet now

Cam belts are often on a time or mileage schedule (whichever comes first), so probably done on age previously. Not sure that 'load' in this fault code is the same as that relating to alternator DFM wire. Think it's engine load instead.

HEX-V2 in Bettyhill, Scotland KW14 7SZ