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White is a great colour for the Sportline black trim items 😆

Afternoon guys, just an update. Had my abs sensor done earlier and all good mechanic said it came off ok bit of a struggle but all 👍. No more warning lights on the dash 🙏👍. Thank you all for your advice much appreciated as always guys 👍

While car is within warranty I would not use non-original parts, so I recommend you buy the OE VAG oil filter instead of the Mann. Is not because of the quality, it is simply because if something happens and this is revealed, having your warranty voided for a few euros difference in a simple part would be very silly ... 😉

Sunday work on my 2011 2.0tdi cffb, 4x4. Did my intake and it was a decent job to do. Cleaned it for any carbon/soot deposits and there were some gunk inside. Replaced my injector seals as well and replaced other seals on the manifold and throttle body as well. My car doesn't habe any dpf issues due to driving conditions, but a clean inside doesn't hurt. Good for mpg and my own mind. Also cracked loose the glow plugs and greased with copper paste so they are easier loosened when replacement is due. All in all 4 hours spent in garage on a nice sunday afternoon.

Ask for a photo of the connector that goes into your pedal, and compare with yours, at least your get the "hardware" part sorted out. It is simply a matter to lay down close to the pedal and you will spot easily the connector, above the pedal itself. There is a red tab that needs to be pulled, in order for the connector to be detached. Now I love to add always some tips: it pays to do it when the car is clean inside, as you need to dwell around the feet area 😁 depending on your physical shape and dexterity, you might need to employ the "kneel before Zod" position, in that case, it pays to have ALSO the outside of the car clean, as you will hover around the sills area, which notoriously attract ... dirt. Except on JR's Gandalf, of course if you struggle with the red tab, which for some reason someone thought it was a connector with such high stresses that needed double locking, use a small screwdriver. Be gentle as there pieces, while immensedly strong when locked, are fragile and brittle. Except the screwdriver, I've done all of the above, especially getting dirty mistiming when to play around with the pesky connector. Have a rag or a towel if your needs don't like bare concrete. How I like to play with cars ... 😄🙃 Now for the uninitiated: Kneel before Zod JR's Gandalf, with its special "antidirt/antidust" coating, a secret he won't reveal 😄

Choose one from the following….. Sign up to a music streaming service Transfer your music to a memory stick Buy a mk1 Octy instead. 😁 😉 👍

If you've flattened your battery like that I would be very suspicious of it's state now. Have you actually checked the resting voltage?

For those of you that prefer a more raw version to what we do this is for you 😃. Here is an hours worth of video of the Yeti and us loving life on the Cotswolds green lanes 😁. For those of you that like to hear/see the Yeti's off-road capabilities at work, head to about the 11 minute mark. If you listen closely or have headphones on, you'll hear a low rumble/bassy sound as we head up the slippy hill. That's the Yeti using the braking system on separate wheels both keeping traction but also trying to keep the car heading on the desired direction. Anyone else find that a pretty neat feature or is it just me? 😄

I have used one in the ID.4 and not noticed a drop in range. Make sure you have the Skoda equivalent of my VW's 'optimised battery use' set in the car or app, to top up the 12V from the traction battery when 12V is in use when parked. This will prevent the 12V being run down.

The first Woodpecker I've seen this year.....

Which voltage means your battery is down to around 35% state of charge (yellow warning level) - even more importantly, your battery voltage will almost certainly be falling to critical level when the starter is operated. At a minimum, your battery requires a full recharge, then a proper test.

The video essentially says "need better data" because data only include fatal crashes. (sounds like EV are less prone to catch fire in a crash if you want to say/assume/assert EV catches fire at same/higher rate as ICE cars) Here is the data source for another statistic that was often quoted on this forum. Is insurance data of all fire related claims (excluding theft) good enough? @Graham Butcher, surely you have the critical thinking skills to do the same as the youtuber and deeply analyse the covered car park file safety guidance (Issued July 2023). Put some evidence into your "sense". We don't need an views-driven entertainer to do this kind of thing.

Simple answer, too big. Not a slightly higher profile. Lots higher profile.

I have 2019 Scala 1.0 TSI 115 and I had battery changed at the service center. It was factory original, EFB 59Ah 380A DIN, 640A EN, so these parameters seem ok to me. Beware - new battery parameters must be coded in car. AGM is better (and more expensive) than EFB.

Did exactly the same with my Karoq. Sold after 10 months. L&K Superb for me this time.

'Hygroscopic'. As it is there are plenty that got cars with a Variable / Flexible service interval as they leave the factory with Long Life Synthetic oil and it might get an oil change after 2 year from the PDI. During the WLTP delayed Certification some were bunkered for more than 6 months outside. The same during Covid with some more like a year from build to delivery. So oil quite some time since put in the engine, & Hygroscopic Brake that was put in a fair while before the car ever went to the customer.

Bracket is made of cheap frangible sugar! I would consider if they were made from brandy snap at least you would having something nice to eat when they disintegrate. Top RH corner failed behind adjuster but just look at the corrosion, outrageous really that they can be so poorly designed and manufactured 😱 £53 for new bracket and quoted over £300 for calibration. I'll be trying, no power whilst disconnected and M1 Southbound>50 mph. I'll let you know. https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/skoda-holder-for-the-front-radar-3q0998561#gallery

replace also emblem for finished look 🙂

Thank you for the latest update.

Having recently switched from 18" Vega to 16" Oz I'd recommend not going to 18" on UK roads. I switched originally to be able to buy cost effective winter tyres but I enjoy the ride so much more on the 205/55/16 over the 205/45/18 I've just purchased 4 Summer grippy 16" tyres. See if you can test drive a car with 18"s on before you spend your money.

If you consider that a vehicle could be on extended servicing - with the oil changes at up to two years, there is no reason to think that lubricating oil kept in a closed container and stored in reasonable conditions will deteriorate. The main reason for mandating regular oil changes is to remove the contaminants picked up during engine run cycles - it should be remembered that there was once a considerable market in re-refined lubricating oil - where used oil was recycled and resold. The original base lubricant was reported as being essentially unaffected by previous use. Unlike brake fluid, lubricating oil is not hygroscopic while stored after being opened. I used to purchase 2-stroke oil in bulk, and have stored it for at least three years with absolutely no detrimental effect.

This has not been my best work Looks like I ordered an auto headlight kit for a VW T5, which is the reason for the problem. Same plug, different pins. After the some great support from the guys over at the Ross-Tech forum, I started again from the beginning with assistance from a friend. Turns out it was a blown fuse after all. On a Fabia VRS 2011 dipped headlights/tail lights are on Fuse 35 "Power supply of ignition switch" 5A according to the owners manual. The icon on the fuse panel is a book with a question mark.

Have you considered fitting higher wattage headlamp bulbs? I upgraded my mk1 to 100W with new bulbs and the headlamps worked really well without untoward beam scatter. Even Mr MoT passed the car several years running without query. https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005007488689896.html

@Tilt On the whole I rate it very highly. The whole thing in the press about haptic buttons being crap and only two window switches is just moaning for moaning's sake. Once you get used to the haptic buttons, they are fine to use. As a car it is quiet, smooth and comfortable. Climate control works well which makes it feel comfortable all the time no matter what the weather is like outside. The car rides well but you can tell its heavy on twisty roads. It is superb on the motorway with ACC. The seats are comfy for long distances. Range is good in the 77kWh model, giving 4 hours of driving time so ready for a break when needing a charge (240-300 mile real world range). Charging is fast if you understand to plug in at a low SoC. Charging at home has always been a breeze. I'd advise they get one with a powered tailgate as the manual tailgate is heavy and tends to slam shut hard if left to itself. I would have preferred to have the matrix lights on mine but the basic LED headlamps are good. The current Match trim has both these items. If buying used, get a 2024 model or newer (if budget allows) as it comes with better software and the more efficient / powerful AP550 motor. If buying an older model, endure the dealer updates the software to V3.7 and check all recalls done (biggy is the HV battery health check). Also check if any of the known gremlins have been fixed under warranty, such as front droplinks, charging flap stuck closed, door locks behaving badly (new handles needed and a VAG wide issue). As a used buy, I would strongly recommend getting a VW warranty either Approved used or the VW Extended Warranty as any major issue will be expensive. Battery/drivetrain has 8 year or 100k mile warranty. One final thing. Get them to sit in one, they are very roomy inside! We came from a Skoda Karoq with similar external dimensions, but the ID.4 is huge inside by comparison. Its the benefit of bespoke EV architecture. We've decided its too big really and we would be fine and comfy in an ID.3 with the benefits of smaller footprint and greater efficiency.

Yesterday I managed 62.5 mpg over a 25mile trip. That was normal driving sticking to the speed limits, 40-50mph, no large hills unlike at home.

@Ootohere has the details on DSG oil changes. It won't be once a year. You do need someone that knows what they're doing as DSG oil change isn't difficult but it's also not as straightforward as on an old manual box (and even the manual boxes VW don't make it as straightforward as other manufacturers). Some, particularly engineers, say that (manual) gearboxes and rear axles don't need oil changes in the life of the car but I have always found benefit, particularly as I don't use the factory (costs) stuff in the changes. Great to see you looking after your car but you don't want to be over doing it and perhaps spending your money and using resources too frequently.

It doesn't work the way you expect because it's a smart alternator🫣 I have watched the behaviour of my alternator when solo and when towing When towing it sits at a steady 14.4v as you might expect. When solo it only charges and goes up to 14.4v on overrun, never when accelerating. It's a smart alternator designed to minimise the load on the engine and thus increase MPG. Find a long hill where you can drive down in gear with no throttle using engine braking. Check the voltage and you will find it's where you expect it to be.

My Karoq has the indirect system, and when I had a puncture it told me which tyre was low.

I have also retrofitted the boot light but I have not written that one up here. The wiring was a right pain.

Latest Updated Speedcams - April, 2025. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( April, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams ( which now include European tunnel speedcams ), Average Speedcams and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - April, 2025.zip * Credit to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for the use of his database which was used and converted in order to compile these files.

Hi all, The answer to the above question related to polarity of the harness connection from the mirrors lamps. Cheers.

I second Lanigraham. In years of following this forum there have been numerous occasions of weird behaviour in the electrics that were resolved by a new battery. I even experienced this myself - a new battery was probably the cheapest fix ever!!

This is going to sound daft, but have you checked the battery? There are known strange occurences when a battery is starting to fail. Check the resting voltage, after leaving the ignition off for atleast 3 hours, and before starting the engine.

From me just the usual when buying an unknown car, buy on whole car condition (not just cosmetic condition) and check and cross reference any information you get particularly the history to the car. You've not put the year of the car or it's engine really, an engine code is useful. or gearbox. You might get more responses and more detailed information by looking at and/or asking in the 'Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 - 2023)' forum (link at bottom of post) where owners of the model have real world experience o them and may have a better idea of costs and values of the model. Modern (VW) Škodas are very much VWs but with things arranged so they don't get too close (or overtake) the more expensive named brand. Also of course many parts are VAG (VW, Audi). General info from me. - The car you have driven may be an excellent, mechanically and electrically very well kept example but unless you have driven a few of the same model, year, engine, gearbox, possibly trim level it will be (very) difficult to know how good just (this) one is with another or others as a comparison. The "services" on these modern cars amounts to little more than an annual engine oil and filter change, which isn't even a service for the engine let alone the car and it's more important systems, components and parts. The "service" includes a look see for any chargeable work which often are quite rightly turned down or ignored. The "services" need to have been done thoroughly (uhmmm) and on a timely fashion. Then VWŠkoda UK have "maintenance schedule" items which really should be part of services but the German marques have their own way of doing things (and specification numbers in addition to what others use). These items also need to be done thoroughly (uhmm) and in a timely fashion. So check what "services" and " maintenance schedule" items and work should have been done to this particular car at times and mileages, whichever is sooner in each, that these have been done and on time, check and ross reference all. An MoT is reassuring especially with no advisories but it is only to one person's (hopefully trained) opinion at that one point in time that the car meets the minimum statutory standards it doesn't mean that the car is as good as it should or could be or that it might not fail the MoT as it's driven away from that MoT. If the car didn't get regular use and/or mostly short journeys do check the state of charge and health of the battery as these modern cars, particularly those with start/stop rely heavily on the 12v battery to keep the complex and intertwined computer systems and programs happy and if the state of charge (and health) is too low for them they will make you suffer for it with all sorts of unexpected issues, warnings, warning lights, unseen error codes, even when the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts. Plus a Superb often has more electrical "assists", "aids" and comfort gadgets. Often all that is required to sort things is to properly recharge the battery or (expensive) battery replacement and possibly 'coding'. Good luck, I'm not a VW fan so I would always suggest an older Toyota or Honda. Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk3-2015-2023/

ETRTO approved rim widths for passenger car tyres 225/35 7.5-8.0-9.0 235/35 8.0-8.5-9.5 235/40 8.0-8.5-9.5 245/35 8.0-8.5-9.5 Actual inflated width of tyre (measured from sidewall to sidewall, at the widest point) 225/35 fitted to 7.5" rim 224mm 235/35 fitted to 7.5" rim 229mm (not an ETRTO approved rim width for this tyre size) 235/40 fitted to 7.5" rim 229mm (not an ETRTO approved rim width for this tyre size) 245/35 fitted to 8" rim 242mm 245/35 fitted to 8.5" rim 248mm

Higher spec models have the spec level of the car there….. vRS, SportLine etc…… Here’s mine.

Hi, welcome, You might be a VW (Škoda) fan, I'm not so I'd always look at older Toyotas or Hondas for longer lasting and more reliable and less running expense (as always with used cars of course based on current condition and a thorough cross check of any history presented). The rear seat bases of the Fabia Mk3 estate (Combi) can be removed, whether the estate rear seat backs fully fold flat I don't know. Looking at the Owner's Manuals for each model and (part) year will give you some information on the seats and lots of other information about the model, link to follow. I would suggest looking and/or asking in each of the model and mark forums for information on each model to get real world real owners' information (as well as looking at the Owner's Manuals) links to follow. My wife's Mk3 Fabia is a hatch or I'd get a tape measure out for you. I can only say the MK3 hatch had the most spacious cabin for its class, at the time it was new at least. HTH. Free VW(Škoda) pdf downloads of the Owner's Manuals at this VWŠkoda site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models VWŠkoda Recalls (the ones they admit to). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns 'Škoda Fabia' forums. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/ 'Škoda Octavia' forums. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

Out with old red, in with the new blue!😁

I have found over the past 3 summers that air-con cooling uses far less power than heating the cabin. It is rare to see power use for aircon above 0.7kW for sustained periods and normally less than 0.5kW. Air-con power consumption does go higher when cooling a hot cabin, but that can be mitigated by opening the windows until the cabin cools. Whereas heating the cabin can start at a power draw in excess of 5kW on very cold days and often remains in 2-2.5kW region maintaining temperature. Heating an uninsulated metal box is really a fool's game and the heat just leaks out.

Mine is 14 liters. It starts remind you when there is about 2500 km left. Beware, AFAIK the engine doesn`t start anymore if the AB level drops to zero.

is it worth to to swap VELA rims to second rim kit Propus for winter tires ? Image phtoshoped.

Playing with my new camera

Changed the bracket on mine, and the error went off after going over 50mph....

I recently had a Rear Camera installed in my Mk4 VRS Hatch. I'm tech-confident but not take a car apart confident but found a company which travels and does it on your driveway, which might do well for you https://www.autologics.co.uk/Skoda-octavia-4-Reverse-camera The cost was £600, but I can't fault the lads. They've done an OEM job and have no issues at all. Had it installed about a month now :)

Here