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After just 8 months and 5k miles in the hands of a Skoda employee my Superb had seen more than it's fair share of hand car washes, water blades and dirty sponges. One week after ownership it's time to put that right. Roof before Roof After Side before Sides after All Done

I completely agree the estate rear window is very poor for rear vision in wet conditions & really you do need as clear a view as possible so why remove a rear wiper especially when factory fitted ?

Modern aerodynamics mean there is little or no direct airflow over the rear window creating a back eddy where road dirt can easily accumulate and restrict rear vision. Personally a rear wiper is a "must have" because of this.

Why?

You’re better to just connect a turn table to it but make sure the DCC is in comfort mode

Tonight's walk around local reservoir......

It is not comparing rotation to others, as you can set the TPMS with the 4 tyres at different pressures, or fit an Emergency Spare with a slightly different Total Diameter / Circumference. Or different sizes front and rear. It is comparing with what you set at, for a change in diameter / circumference from what was logged, and enough difference.

Warranties vary of course. Toyota offer a 10 year/100k mileage warranty if you service with them. Others such as Genesis and Hyunda offer a 5 year warranty but unlimited miles. A key difference here is it's very rare for an ICE car to suddenly drink lots more fuel than previously. Warranty issues on ICE cars tend to relate to a total failure of a component rather than a gradual decline as is the case with EV batteries. My point was that battery degradation is effectively an accepted part of EV ownership - people expect it but for it to drop to 70% in 8 years/100k miles in my view is going to be too much for most people to accept.

I've owned a fair few Skodas over the years yet it's the mk3 Octavia that I really love. This is my 3rd....and favourite. We purchased this 2015 2.0 Tdi Elegance 4x4 back in November 24. It was a cheapish example with a short MOT and in need of a little tlc. We could tell it was a decent car, it drives beautifully, the engine is quiet and leak free, the interior is mint and everything works as intended. A service, new battery, tyres and a good clean tranformed the car. I noticed a broken osf coil spring so both were replaced. The MOT was passed advisory free. Since then, the brake fluid has been changed and a haldex service carried out. This car has proved to be good buy. It's great to drive, sips diesel and is so comfortable. I love the colour too. It's covered 123k miles and I'm looking forward to adding plenty more! Long live the mk3 Octy!

Really? How many ICE cars have an eight year engine/gearbox warranty? (EV battery/motor warranties are for the drive train) Once you are out of manufacturer's warranty period you are on your own. If the engine starts using loads of fuel at 7 years old after 70k miles its on the owner to fix that. Holding EVs to a higher standard is an unfair comparison. The battery warranty demonstrates to the customer the manufacturer has faith in the technology. What gives ICE owners confidence in a ten year old car is anecdotal evidence of similar cars working fine until 10 years (or longer). That anecdotal evidence is still building for EVs and the warranties help with that. There are now many examples of 200K+mile Teslas with good batteries, many older Leafs and Zoes with a high percentage of original range available. These are the cars that have been around long enough to 'test' if the long battery / motor warranties are needed. The oldest MEB platform cars are 2020 ID.3s with many reporting over 200K KM on European forums. I think it will take time for trust in older EVs to build up, but it will as more and more people buy second-hand EVs.

For Shure!

The only time I removed and blanked rear wiper was for MOT as it had failed. Replaced it within a few days as the build up of dirt on rear window was really bad. I doubt it would show up any error codes. Mine is at moment disconnected while waiting for a new one again!! and no probs apart from not being able to see out the back. I'm used to driving vans so tend to use side mirrors a lot more. Alasdair

TPMS can be a bit finiky sometimes. Quite often had them ping off randomly. Just keep on checking the tyre pressures and crack on.

Here is a little update: after a long fight with the local dealer, the importer joined the conversation, and Porsche helped us debug and solve the problem. Tldr, it is a known issue, and there was a new part that solved everything. I am not sure what it exactly is—some "ECU" that lives under the right seat. The new module's price is around 800€, and it took about 1.5 hours to install. So far, everything seems to work as intended.

Now that is just needling him . . .

Yeah.. of course a replacement screen is the only answer! I used cerium oxide on a small (25mm) medium pad, attached to the small battery DA I have, and that made short work of the end of travel crap on the drivers side blade, which caused terrible squeaking and thud as the blade stuck (literally nothing else worked) and it removed minor stone scratches on the blade arcs too. Oh and if you leave the oxide to dry in the container you use to mix it in, it’ll dry and it can be reused again.

After being pestered by my Daughter for the need to charge a phone in the back seats of the car. I thought I would go OEM and fit the rear USB sockets in the centre console as my model of car didn't have them. Parts needed; I ordered these from www.skoda-parts.com, it took 1 week to deliver the parts from Europe. The only thing I didn't order from Skoda was the actual USB unit, as it worked out too expensive, it was £45 for the usb and extra for the cable. I got this from aliexpress instead as it worked out around £20 with shipping. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000454430275.html?spm=a2g0o.search0302.0.0.48f2d710S9U8kD&algo_pvid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725&algo_expid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725-26&btsid=0b0a555a16212796060048113e0e8c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ These are the parts I ordered from Skoda parts. 5E0 863 284 D 9B9 Storage Compartment - Rear Škoda 1 × 21,84 EUR 5E0 863 229 9B9 Cover left Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 863 230 9B9 Cover Right Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 857 346 A 9B9 Cover Škoda 1 × 7,49 EUR 5E0 857 289 F 9B9 Center Tunnel Cover Škoda 1 × 11,09 EUR POST14.00 Shipping 1 × 16,80 EUR Total price incl. shipping and VAT 58,28 EUR The only tools i needed was a Torx tx20 bit and the ratchet to put it in. Small flat screwdriver to help remove the 12v cigarette lighter socket. A plastic trim remover might also help, but never needed one. A lighter socket removal tool would probably help too as I had to press the tabs in quite a bit, to get the socket out. So I first started off in the rear of the car moving the front seat forward to give me more room to work in, this is how it looked originally. First I removed the ashtray, just open it up, and give it a gentle pull towards you, it should unclip nice and easy. There is an area for an LED at the back of the ashtray which i'm guessing is used in some models but not in mine. Next up put your hands in the hole where the ashtray was up towards the rear vents, just give them a gentle push from behind and they will pop out, put these to one side. Next up remove the 4 torx screws shown in the following picture. Then again I just pulled the trim part towards me, you may use you trim removal tool there are two raised parts which clip in near the bottom shown in the picture. Next up round to the front seat, move the seat back as far as you can just to give you more room to work in. The next thing i did was to pull the bottom trim down this just need a gentle pull downwards and it pops out. again just to give a bit more space to work in. (be careful if left in place when sliding the chair forward as it can get caught up). Following that time to remove the cigarette socket, (It may be a good idea to remove the fuse or take the battery wire off as this socket stays live when the car is off and if you slip with the screwdriver may cause a short). There are two small black tabs near the top which need pressing in to allow the cigarette socket to out of the black housing. I had to press them in up to the point I thought I was going to break something I ended up bending the metal slightly but bent it back before I replaced the socket. So maybe the removal tool is the easier option. Next you want to unplug the socket from the wiring, and remove the black plastic ring. The loom you get with the USB plugs, just plug between the cigarette lighter plug and socket. so you can now plug in the loom to the car wiring and pull the red plug and wire down through the hole. and for now out of lower trim that was removed. The black plastic ring can go back over the new plug. And the cigarette socket can be plugged back in. I left it out of the trim for time being until i could test the usb. After this i fed the wire with the red plug for the USB unit back past the inside of the seat. Then moved into the back of the car, moving the seat forward to allow access. This bit was quite fiddly as my hands are quite large, I fed the wire up with my right hand and had my left hand in the hole where the ashtray was as far forward as it could go under the air vent pipe. it took a couple of tries but eventually felt the wire and managed to pull it through. out of the rear trim. You can see in the picture where it is going up into the trim (it looks like it is looped around the chair but it isn't I haven't pulled it taught yet). Then it was time to screw the new trim piece in put it back making sure it clicks in place then using the 4 torx screws that were removed screw them back in. Next up I clicked the USB unit into the small trim piece, it only goes one way and the aliexpress unit was a perfect fit, I could now plug the red plug into the unit and test it worked.! ....It does. So carrying on I routed the wire where I thought it should go, there was a small hook on the left hand side so used that. and clicked the second trim piece into place. the blanking pieces were next they were straight forward and only go in one way. And the vents were next make sure the vent pipe is seated right as it is loose in there and I had moved it when squeezing my hand in there. These just pushed straight back in make sure you hear them click in place. Also the new smaller Ashtray just clicks in the same as before. Following this i tucked the wire up inside the centre console, and clipped the front piece of trim back in place again it just clips in place nothing too awkward. and pushed the black clip and cigarette socket back into place. The last picture looks patchy its because i had just wiped my greasy fingerprints off of it.!! And Voila one happy Daughter can now charge her phone in the back of the car.

So...had my 2.0TSI estate for nearly 7 years now (bought from someone on here). It was remapped to 260bhp by me after about a month as standard... and has been great. However after engine light kept coming on this year, I decided to invest in a new manifold (which fixed it) and new Koni dampers and new springs. Intention to keep another few years at least. And what a transformation! The car is back to life. Handling much improved, the old suspension passed mots fine but must have been very tired. The ride which was on a par with my 2018 Fiesta ST is now really smooth. Really happy as it is still an immaculate car and much more stable in every way. Going to buy the racechip pedal box to improve the throttle response (to make getting out the ST that bit less of a shock!) and I have a family car I'm genuinely happy with, owned for 2 years longer than anything else I've had.

Apologies - I was reading the W to Y and had it in my head that it was an upgrade on both counts. I'm not sure what the GVW/MAM is for a Mk1, but for a Mk3 it's just over 1900kg. With 91 tyres all round you'll be about half a ton off that. Even if you were to be transporting lead, I think something else would break before you got a tonne of weight in the boot. You'll be fine.

When we (family) moved back to the UK in 1968, my Dad ordered a Volvo 145 Estate from the Ipswich concessionaires, the only Volvo one in the UK at the time. The car arrived from Ghent, Belgium, on time into Ipswich. We flew in from Lusaka (Zambia) and the car was supposed to be in long term parking so we could pick it up and drive to my Grandparents in Cornwall. But no car. Dad got on the phone, and, as he had done the importing personally from Lusaka, the Volvo dealership had never seen one before. So, rather than deliver it as promised, they held onto it so they could get all their regional sales folks back from wherever to look at and review the car. Dad had ordered the 145S (twin carb 120hp 2.0L) because we had an Amazon in Africa and it was bullit proof. The running gear is essentially the same. We, self, brother and Mum, got on a train to Truro. Dad got on a train to Ipswich to extract his (paid for) car from the Concessionaires. I just can't imagine anyone would expect such a plan to work today! If anyone remembers 'The car's the star' with Quentin Wilson from the 1999, that was Dad, with pipe & dark green Volvo and 120,000 miles on the clock: filmed behind a garden gate of a home counties pretty cottage that wasn't ours, but the Producer had knocked on the door just to check if anyone was in.

Neither can I, which I why I thought that a slightly different rotation speed at higher motorway speeds may be the issue here

The mechatronics was replaced by Skoda in 2017 and 130k miles ago, cost around £1500 fitted. I believe that it has been in for the update to the DSG since then

There was a TPI on CTHE but not CAVE twinchargers on chain stretch. Not that they stretched, but were measured.

Found the 50amps fuse on the engine bay number F29 had green corrosion on the pins, instead of a new fuse now the wiper is back to normal bilmey🙄

The water pump failing with a Twincharger is usually shown with a slight loss of coolant and the Supercharger Clutch is part of it and you can get a Emission Control Light or EPC light or both show, and lose the Supercharger working. Sounds like the issue known with CTHE,s, tensioner and timing chain. Plenty threads on both issues.

How many miles? Water pump ? Time to change the distribution chain ?

It was indeed a rear ABS sensor that was triggering all the alerts. Had it replaced this morning and all good so far. I have a good bit of driving coming up in the next few days, so time will tell.

Door lock could be the dead bolt is stuck. if it sounds like it is getting power when you press the buttons, its the deadbolt. theres plenty threads on replacing them, just dont use a hammer etc. to open the door, i have explained many times on the lock threads its unnecessary violence. a stanley blade, 2 allen keys and patience. the rear wiper - check if the fuse has been pulled as a very first check. i pulled my fuse as the water damage electrical short made my front wipers come on permanently one day. pullingthe rear fuse stopped them. The washer fluid pipe passes through the center line of the motor, which why the motors get damaged... so that was a great design choice. the trim falling off is also common on estates and hatchbacks 🤣 couple of new clips, line it up and smack it into place, be grand. cup holder... ohhh its been a while, but presume its the 1 by the handbrake? mine was broken too, iirc (10yrs ago) it was the little spring had unseated itself. fiddly job to fix it, i possibly left it be. if you want, glue it down and you can get a double cup holder from a Lupo that fits in place of the storage cubby under the radio, if you have a single DIN headunit.

Rather than guessing get a proper diagnostic scan done, very often ESC and TPMS errors are caused by a faulty ABS wheel speed sensor.

Such a shame. Friend of mine got offered his 2011 estate Seat for £99 and a payout. Hopefully needs a wing and front bumper only. Never knew they did things this cheap. Maybe best to not allow anyone to take car away if you want to keep.

I bought one last year, I'll have had it 12 months by next week. First off the rear brakes were obviously shot at 19k miles as they were replaced in February of 2024. Mines a 2020 model SE L DSG 1ltr. I've replaced the front brakes myself and given it a service only last month, easy enough as I don't bother with dealers or anyone else touching my cars. It's just also had it's second MOT, absolutely nothing wrong and I didn't expect there to be. The car is a great to drive, never had an auto for many years, this being the DSG it's absolutely great to drive, plenty of poke if needed especially when put in sport mode for a 1 litre. I've have no problem but for, see below..... A word of advice, check to see if the car your buying has the SOS alarm keep showing up on the dash display. Plenty of info on this within this forum and not just on the Kamiq either. I'm pretty sure they'll say no or I don't know what you mean. It can happen often or randomly any time between 4 week intervals or 4 month intervals. Mine started around 6 months into ownership, I only had a 3 month warranty (car supermarket type sale) and it's been annoying rather than an actual fault that prevents you driving the car. Anyways mine just resets and maybe doesn't happen again for weeks and weeks, I just put up with it. Apparently some say it needs a software update others say a new aerial module, take your pick but ask the selling dealer if it's been replaced or had all the updates before shelling out your hard earned.👍

With traction batteries and their actual capacity it is semi truths along side other semi truths. When working on a rolling road the measured horsepower was so dire in many case we use to switch the rolling road to display twice the actual reading and then given the owner some bullsh1t on taking account for transmissions losses which an ICE car could be 20% or so ie primary reduction, gearbox, diff etc. Couple that with the 10 or 20% loss in the engine, due to worn piston rings etc and if we showed them that there 140 hp cars, which was actually only putting out around 75 hp, that after our tuning on the Rolling road was producing 150hp, estimated flywheel, they would go away happy and the car would probably feel quicker after our tune so all happy days. The EV is probably not going to lose anywhere near the HP. Also does not suffer anything like the power train loses. The traction battery however, mostly being lithium rather than Lithium Iron Phosphate although that percentage ever increasing, will probably suffer deg in the batter performance. A thousand chargers will take its tool. More so on passive air cooled LEAFs, a little bit on the Active air cooled Zoes and less so on liquid cooled more modern Traction batteries. Maybe Chinese BMSs are a little more using more of the voltage range of Korean/European systems, BYD maybe being one of the better Chinese brands but Bjorn Nyland, after his roast of Toyota just highlighted BYD as having a rather poor ie high range of individual cell temperature difference during high powered recharge resulting in rapid-gating. All Traction batteries on EV have significant margins. Zoe is at least 55 kWh but 52 nominal, Scenic 65 kWh actual but 60 kwh displayed. Drove my scenic 11 miles past zero before it even gave a restricted performance notification and drove on another couple of miles no problem. Manufacturers oft do over the air updates which redefines the battery bottom and top buffers. The Zoe Ze40 is thought to have had over 20% hidden buffer which it could release to maintain vehicle range and avoid warranty calls saying battery had fallen below 75%. The Spring's actually battery SOC is reckoned to be 106% to -9% when it actually stops going ie 15% which equated to 25 miles over it 140 mile range. So what figures do we rely on ? Manufacturers health check ? EBD2 Car Scanner or measuring energy input and output and actual range achieve in ambient/reproducible standard conditions ? EVs, ie lithium batteries do have foibles, they don't like regen when temp is low but then getting 20% extra range due to regen is cool. Hard to run out of range on an EV and fuelling up at home for about 2 pence per mile is great !

Lets guess how much your fuel is. 132 pence a litre. £6 a gallon. Stick in a tenners worth.

Just a follow up to my problem. Skoda got back to the dealer with a "Test Plan"? whatever that is. I took my car back in and was given a loan car until they sorted it out. They said the "Test Plan" was inconclusive and changed the the whole steering rack and column under warranty. The car seems to be fixed and I think the steering feels slightly lighter. Thanks.

I have a guy who is working this retrofits for vag

Stylee / Sporty looks over function / practicality. Many complain about new cars / EV,s often, that come without rear wipers.

Could the dealer you are referring to be Birchwood Eastbourne? (Not a sales agent now but they did my last service) I have twice found that Birchwood set my tyre pressures far too high. I reset them myself checking with 2 pencil gauges. I recently had a tyre replaced at a local tyre supplier and they checked all the pressures and they agree with my own readings. Like you, when I mentioned it Birchwood said their equipment had been calibrated. I can only think that something is going wrong with the calibration process.

@OccyVRS Total tosh as far as weather. Covid years they kept snow gates closed quite a bit. As far as the past decade the weather in winters have been different but the roads closed for more than a couple of days at a time is rare. Vans and lorries are delivering all the time and people travelling. Skiing open if the tows are running. This year great, just not for skiing, 2012 a heat wave for March and snow came on the 1st April. a 23 Degree C drop overnight. On the tops getting sun burned and next morning deep snow in Forfar. 2013 & Arran had Snowmaggedon in March. I used to be up north of Inverness living in my van Mid week and well out of season and through autumn and winter. As far as the Snow gates they are open for the ski centres, Lecht and Glenshee as soon as they can in the mornings but can be closed for a few days. Wind and drifts. (Cairnomount route from Edzell closed this year for past month because a bridge damaged.) I grew up on the Moray Firth at Macduff and as far as weather that is not the same weather as north of Inverness, nor is Buckie, Foress, Elgin, Nairn. SPEY BAY / FINDHORN. Skied at the Lecht, had easters at the cairngorms in a caravan as a child sking and that was before the Aviemore Cantre was built. Skied at Glenshee in its early days and even at Mar Lodge after its ski tows were dismantled & its dry slope moved to Glenshee. My dad towed the caravan over the A939 and A93 during winter. Jim that was the snow plough driver became the Roads Director and ran the Lecht Ski Centre. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/323078-skiers-and-snowboarders-come-forward/page/10 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/252376-ferrercairn-to-banchory-over-cairn-o-mount http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/435353-north-coast-250-scotland http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/408884-scenic-route-to-aviemore

If you're replacing them yourself, there is no labour cost involved. If you get a garage to do it, then you're going to be hit with a labour charge every time, so it would be cheaper to replace all four at the same time.

I wish I could Nigel. Brake Assist has been an EU requirement for a while now, and my Fabia has it. It's kicked in a couple of times. I note that, if stop-start is active and the engine stops, then Brake Assist also refuses to operate, as does the speed limiter. I just get an exclamation mark. The front-facing 77GHz radar is the key sensor to Brake Assist, so if it's raining, not clear of leaves, collecting snow or salt from the road, or otherwise not clean and clear, then I can understand why the system would refuse to operate. Picking a technical explanation, Arno Penzias and Robert Wilson, who discovered the Cosmic Microwave background radiation, originally went through many sources looking for the error: including pigeon droppings in their horn antenna. I don't think that's likely for us unless there's a sharp-shooting pigeon somewhere. But the place to start would be to check that the antenna embedded in the front grill is clean and clear of obstructions. I'll bin it with the mandatory tyre pressure monitoring system TPMS: the car knows which tyre is low. Why can't it just say which??? Would I believe it anyway? Probably not, as those sensors are maybe 2% accurate, so what it thinks is low is 30psi not 32psi. My personal experience is, if a tyre is flat, you hear it, and you feel it when cornering.

It's a 20x10 Apex Deluxe from Lidget Compton.

Never ceases to amaze me how properly corrected paint has such a deep colour. Spot on.

The only issue with that part of the world, as beautiful as it is, is that it's only beautiful for 3 months in the year. The rest of the time, it's miserable. I grew up in Moray - I'd move there tomorrow if I could. It's just, people only ever show the sunny, warm days, and don't really acknowledge that a lot of the time it is bitterly cold and wet. One of my favourite roads in the entire is an old military road that cuts about 20 miles through the Highlands. It has stunning views, some stunning road and is the epitome of what everything I love about the world. My current phone lock screen is a photo of my car, taken on that road. Anyway, it's absolutely lovely in the summer but, due to the weather, largely impassible for the other three seasons. Indeed, the snow gates are shut for winter. It's great fun up there, but it's not a private race track. Even though things are a bit different now, the conditions can be dangerous and plenty have been caught out over the years. Nobody is saying you'll starve to death, but go 45 minutes off the A roads, get a flat and you can look forward to several hours walking in the cold until someone coming home from work in their 4x4 sees you.

I've always used Quantum oil as sold by TPS (VW's parts division in the UK) but yes that looks the right grade. If you open the bonnet, there should be a sticker visible at the front with the correct oil grade. I would be looking for the classification eg VW 504 etc. An OEM filter is not expensive. Assuming you have a metal sump like my 2023 206kw engine, there is a standard bolt with copper washer. Really one should replace at least the washer, or anneal it. But if you don't, I doubt there will be a problem! If you have the plastic sump like my 2016 206kw then you should replace the plastic sump plug as the seal is by means of an O ring.

^^^ Best not count on having Mobile Phone Reception at EV Chargers even when at towns or villages. Have a Electroverse & a CPS card and sometimes one or other might work, or you might be at a Rapid with a DD / Card payment. If there are accidents / incidents on roads the Mobile Reception can get turned down. I have Mobile phones with 3 Mobile Providers and sometimes still no reception. Or reception if you have a little wander away from the charger. PITA. PS Many of us need chargers at 11 o'clock at night, or later into the night as some travel at night and get peed off at those charging to 100% and then leaving the car till they have breakfast, or finish their walk / cycle or whatever. Check your app if there is phone reception, or check visually, make sure you are still charging. PPS. Plenty care not a jot about £1 a minute penalty. Then there are £1 or £2 to charge Minimum and the charger might start and cut out multiple times. CPS will say contact Highland Council. Aberdeenshire, Argyle & Bute etc. NO TELL THEM TO GET ON WITH THEM AS THEY CAN SEE CLEARLY THAT CHARGER IS HOPELESS AND HOW MANY ARE PAYING FOR NO SERVICE. Ayrshire, £5 minimum charge. You can get done lots of time. Green Light is no Guarantee when you try using that the Charger will start, they can go RED after you have started and are charged £1, £2, £5 or whatever.

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Which voltage means your battery is down to around 35% state of charge (yellow warning level) - even more importantly, your battery voltage will almost certainly be falling to critical level when the starter is operated. At a minimum, your battery requires a full recharge, then a proper test.

This image is of the centre console of a 2025 Fabia Mk 4 with manual transmission. It will be seen that a one-piece plastic trim surrounds the gear-shift lever's cover as on my 2024 DSG car's console.

LOOKING FRESH :) i so need a garage again :(