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Lovely this afternoon (and stopped off on the way home to watch the sunset)..........

Almost a full Moon this evening........

CoMoUK shows that the cost of running and maintaining a car club EV is now around £6,000 per year higher than a typical petrol car in the same fleet. https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/news/affordability-of-electric-vehicles-behind-car-club-fleet-decline

More on that EV fire.

Quite possibly. It looks like it has somehow ingested parts of the dipstick!

From what you describe, there is more being taken out of the battery than is being put in. So either your dashcam or some other device is excessively draining the battery when the car is parked up, or the alternator is failing to put enough charge into the battery. If the (fairly new) battery is failing, this will reduce its effective capacity and exacerbate the problem. Do check the obvious, like both main cables connecting to the battery posts are clean and tight. A garage should be able to quickly test the battery health, the alternator performance and the current drain with the vehicle parked (say 10 or more minutes after switching off).

You'll have a K03s turbo, found on many variants of the 1.8T. You shouldn't have issues finding a replacement. However, I would be more concerned about the health of the engine if any of it got starved of oil.

So just on the off-chance, I gave it another go this afternoon - it WORKED! Tried again a hour or so later - STILL WORKING! I haven't done anything to settings on my phone or the car. It was successful with the engine running as it was sent, then again later when the car was parked - the route arrived as soon as the satnav started. So hopefully the issue, whatever/wherever it was is fixed. Watch this space....

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd consider a failed oil pump as the first suspect, depending on how long the engine was run after the oil pressure failure indicator lit, it is likely that your engine has suffered significant damage. All vehicle instructions I have seen mandate immediate engine stop and recovery if oil pressure fails. Highly probable that turbo seizure is the result of oil pressure failure - not vice-versa.

I’m staying up on The Wirral at the moment with a friend who has just had her car written off. Looking at cars today, and I’ve just had an hour’s test drive in a Model Y Launch Edition. I have to say I was totally blown away by it. Awesome car, that I struggle to fault at all. It’s certainly made me reflect and reevaluate my views on EV’s, as the test drive was a revelation and thoroughly enjoyable experience. That I can actually afford one (might even be better off) was a real surprise! Gaz

Long story short. They have to pay charging costs like a Private Owner with no home charging might. But, they are not just counting in the Tariff for public charging, they are including the Land and the Charger. Rented /leased or owned. ............... If i want Milk i go buy milk at a shop / dairy / supermarket. I do not own a cow or land to keep a cow on or milking machines or even a pail. Same if i own or lease a EV and do not have home charging, i do not buy a charger & charging bay. ................ The 20-80% charging guff yet again. AC charging, fill your boots if you want, lease / fleet car or even your own if you want, get the electric in when cheap / cheaper. Car Clubs not running like Fleet or Commercial Drivers. Benefit in Kind. 20% claim back on VAT for some. Work Place charging. Salary Sacrifice. They are Car Club Running Costs, & there are University, Council Car Clubs etc. Their own grounds / parking, renewable energy maybe, wind, solar, battery storage. They are Running EV,s. Drip feeding the 20-80% and people sook it in!

Pleased to hear it! Don't lock it again......until you have either changed the lock OR, disabled the offending lock by unplugging it. I found that everything worked fine if the lock was un-plugged. Be aware though, the alarm will probably go off if car is locked and the door is opened just due to movement etc. Door card removal is quite easy: Window winder off, slide the thin locking-collar 'upwards' away from the handle direction (if it's manual rear windows). Remove handle trim-cover, prise / pull cover off carefully. Easier if left in the sun for a while, everything softens. Remove 2x larger Torx screws under the handle cover (magnetic driver or grease on bit helps avoid dropping screws in door). Remove 2x small torx screws from recesses in bottom edge of door card. Prise card off the door, breaking many green plastic clips......i use a thin plastic 'slice' to start levering the card off. Lift card upwards slightly to free it in the window area. Support the card and carefully disconnect the lock release cable from the interior handle. The end of the cable-outer will unclip so you can then release the inner wire nipple from the door-handle. The card is then free. Carefully cut foam type panel away from the lock area, it can be re-taped back on after the work. Un-plug the cable going into the base of the lock which is now de-activated. Slide phone or small digi camera into the recess and take pics of the back of the lock which you cannot see. A bit tricky but you should get a decent-ish pic of the label on the lock. Only this part nr. lock will work with your car. Send the number to Skoda Parts Direct in Swindon for an email quote. If it's a later car you may get a cheaper aftermarket lock. The cheaper locks don't work on the earlier cars (certainly not on 2006 - 7, maybe later). Door card clips (decent oem spec) are on ebay: Item 391217708917, or same seller off ebay is vehicleclips.co.uk who also sell oem spec. items like plastic rivets. Don't be tempted to re-use the green clips, they will break in-situ and the doorcards rattle and vibrate. Best changed, any time a card is taken off. Consider changing any lock as soon as it becomes 'intermittent'. The 'open with console-button + engine running' may only work once or twice - its simply not worth the pain of having to remove a door card with a locked door (usually happens in winter when it's peeing down too). You need the (12-spline?) bit for the 2 lock-fixing screws in edge of door. The exterior-handle vertical link-rod prises off the lock ball-joint, before the lock can be removed from the door. Good luck.

Sorry to hear about the issue and the dilemma. From a financial point I’d budget for the worst case scenario (assuming that’s including VAT) and add 10% for unforeseen issues. That potentially puts you at £4,400 on a £5,000 car; which is a slim dilemma when you then start to factor lost time without the car etc etc. In relation to the second post I don’t think there’s any difference in engine otherwise there’d be a change of engine code depending on the gearbox (albeit some engines only have a DSG option). If yours could be either then I can think you can choose either.

While everyone’s entitled to their opinion, I think the way one has chosen to express it is unnecessarily derogatory. It’s one thing to prefer another website, totally fair, we all have our preferences. However, t’s another thing entirely to come into this community and trash the site in such a dismissive way. If the roles were reversed, I’m sure VerticalScope the owner of the site you prefer would be thrilled to know one of their members was out publicly belittling other communities online. That kind of behavior reflects more on the individual than on any platform they’re talking about. There’s always room for improvement in any community, and thoughtful, constructive criticism is always welcome. But this kind of negativity doesn’t build anything, it just tears down. If you’ve got suggestions, let’s hear them. If not, maybe consider the kind of energy you’re bringing into the space. We’re all here to make things better, not bitter. Enjoy your site, and don’t let the door hit you backside on the way out…

The Manufacturers of the G-Wiz should stop manufacturing them immediately. Or 13 years ago. Keep the man in Australia happy. Well angry... CONVERSION TO LITHIUM.pdf

A G-Wiz.

'Exciting' (aka scary) news of an EV fire - a few minutes walk from me... https://www.dailyecho.co.uk/news/25150141.moment-electric-car-burst-flames-chandlers-ford/

Hello from Spain!! I'm an Skoda driver and I'm so satysfied with it :) Octavi IV SCOUT 4x4 200hp It's a mess that this model has been discontinued... Regards xank

They were trying. ^^^ He is very trying, very easily amused by himself.

My DAB antenna was a combination of 2 aerials. DAB and AM/FM. There were infact 3 cables comimg from it, the DAB Cable, the AM/FM Cable and a 12v Power feed. The 12V was for an integrated RF Amp and I powered that from the external antenna power of my android unit, that was 12v when the unit was turned on. On the android units the DAB and AM/FM connections are separate, I've no idea if the OEM units are separate or combined. Is it even possible to combine them ? GPS I've never had problems with the GPS antennas you just throw behind the units on install, but an external one can only be better. I've put GPS antennas behind A Pillers before at the top. I also had to get some Fakra adapters at headunit end but you'd obviously get whatever connector adapters are required to your needs. You can come down either A Piller, the glove box comes out easily if required, it really doesn't make much difference. Obviously cable tie your new wires along to the existing cabling, don't squeeze the roof drains, and not infront of or around the air bags.

I have destroyed one boot, and split the other three, so I now have four good OE coils without boots. I did however get four new coils (Bosch) prior to attacking the job, as from my initial attempt, I knew at least one boot was going to be destroyed. If I suffer coil failure in the future, I have four spares. Someone will have to clear them from my garage when I die, along with lots of other assorted stuff.

New filters tend to come with a new O ring. If the housing itself is leaking it's likely to be cracked somewhere. It is possible it's the gasket between the housing assembly and the block that is leaking, in which case either a new gasket, new O ring or an appropriate sealing compound should fix it.

The first thing to do is ask for a printout of the complete service record from the new garage. Once you have this you can check it against your own records. If it matches up then you're good to go. If it can't be supplied and an excuse is given then you can go to your main Skoda dealer and ask for it. To be very honest, I only ever use the main dealer for service, yes it is more expensive, but as a customer you can ask for the full service history printout. I tend to keep all the receipts as well, also for things like tyres. Pays off when you trade the car in or sell it. On the other hand, there are many reputable indy garages out there who pay the fee to be able to keep the online service record up to date and to be able to access it. In some cases these guys are better than the main dealer. I find that asking around is a good plan.

Do you have the setting to maintain the 12v from HV set? In my ID.4 this is called Optimised Battery Use. Some people don't set it or even unset it as it 'affects range' but the effect is miniscule. Perhaps @domhnall will know what Skoda call the setting?

@Ootohere Update: I believe I have solved what happened last weekend. After a couple of days this week of being asleep, the car is now back to responding in the morning to the remote. Going back to what i had done with the car last weekend, I think I now know what I did to cause the problem. On Sunday I decided test the boot size for our Holiday trips. I put my Wife's mobility scooter, Luggage and the food for the dog and coolbox in the boot. I tried different allocations of the space. I.e Scooter across the back or forwards to the boot lid. It probably took over an hour whilst the boot was open. Moving on to investigating the "Stationary aircon" settings there is one that says "Run aircon on unlock". I now believe this was the culprit, Although the aircon compressor is run by the HV battery the fan/blower is not. I now think that running for over an hour with the boot open drained the 12v Battery sufficient to make the car go to sleep until the battery charged back up with use. I have unselected the option to "Run aircon on unlock"

the ht leads are oe, tesla from czech republic. the carburettor is a jikov 28/30 LEKR and it's not set for LPG, just petrol. Later I will post an update about the consumption (l/100km). PS. Old parts have been refitted (new parts are in my boot for an emergency?)

Had mine done last month, during annual service. Whole job of drain/recovering, recharge, including dye and oils, check all hoses, belts, connections, and then ZACBOMB freshener, total £139 inc vat. And, as dealer job, fully guaranteed if any problems later, like leakage.

just don't forget to program the new battery to the car when fitted. Thanks. AG Falco

I didn't get on with the windscreen type. I live in London and it worked fine in town, but often DAB broke up in the countryside. It was perfect with the roof antenna. Fitting was not hard. I had the glass roof, so antenna was at the rear. Open up the tailgate and right at the rear of the roof lining there are a few plastic rivets. Try as much as I did, they did snap on removal. But I just used other push in plastic rivet fittings afterwards. But pop those rear rivets out and you can pull the lining down enough to get a spanner on and swap antennas. You can pull off door trim rubber at the top to feed cable forward and down an A Piller. If your antenna is at the front then I've never done them but have read access is behind the reading light.

Car has a timing belt not a chain

Bluetooth is fine for basic use of the phone via the infotainment, but CarPlay offers so much more access to the iPhone features. I use wireless CarPlay as I couldn't be bothered with a USB cable, so the iPhone stays in my jacket pocket.

Be aware that the majority of 'reconditioned' engines being touted will be no such thing - almost invariably pulled out of a wreak, steam-cleaned and plonked on a pallet (pallet optional)

Plenty chargers about around where he is going, but @ 79 pence a kWh you are £7.90 to go maybe 35-40 miles.. Lovely when you are getting for 60 pence or under, then you are @ the £6.10 or so you would be for a gallon on petrol. Maybe more for the diesel that will maybe take you further for £6.50 or so a gallon.

The Mode button and toggling with the lever give different versions of Sport mode. See logiclee's posts above.

That's a part number, not a paint code.

Hello everyone, I've got good news. I finally resolved the tachometer issue. I will describe the steps below for anyone in the future; The car was cold, so I opened the bonnet and set the valve cearances again (some were spot one, some valves were off by 0.1-0.2mm (how does that happen?)) After the valves have been set I did next: NOTE: the timing degrees mentioned below are for favorit 136 engines, favorit 135 engine's specs for timing are "2 +- 2 degrees" so ideally on a 135 engine you would aim for 2 degrees." Locate the timing pulley on the timing chain cover. Mark the V notch with white paint and set it to 0. Connect the timing light. Start the car and let it get to it's operating temperature. Disconnect vacuum tube from the distributor and plug it with a screw. Unscrew the distributor retaining bolt just enough so you can rotate it. Point the timing light to the pulley and "fire" the timing light at it. If the timing is above 5 +- 2 (7) Degrees rotate the distributor (retard the timing), if the timing is below 5 +- 2 (3) Degrees rotate the distributor (advance the timing). You need to aim for 5 Degrees ideally. The timing should now be set correctly. Tighten the distributor retaining bolt. Connect the distributor vacuum tube. Next in line is the carburettor. Ideally you should use an external tachometer. My stroboscope has the said function so I used that for reference (the external tachometer needs to read at least 50 rpm changes) The stroboscope I used: https://www.kroftools.com/en/regulation-and-test/digital-display-timing-light_p1781.html The steps are as described below: Connect the timing light. Start the car and let it get to it's operating temperature. Set the read method on the stroboscope to rpm. Adjust mixture screw on the carb untill the engine's rpms don't rise anymore then back it off a little bit (maybe by half a turn or less). Adjust the idle speed screw untill the tachometer reads 800 +- 50 rpm (ideally you would set the idle to 850 rpm. The carburettor should now be set. Turn off the car. Disconnect the stroboscope (timing light). And voila, you are done. Cheers!

All @travs was on about (I think) the risk of spacers being installed improperly, or causing premature wear on bearings, hubs, etc. In theory there’s no difference between a super high offset wheel and a 30mm spacer, so as long as they’re installed properly, centred, etc, you should be absolutely fine. I would hope any decent performance/tuning/exhaust place can help you. I wouldn’t expect you to be paying more than around £50. P.S. you might also want to look into sorting the turbo wastegate rattle. It’s a common issue on all these cars - when in 2cyl mode, the sound is annoying. I remember my Leon was particularly horrendous!

I attacked them today, and got them all off, plugs changed, new coils fitted, all working well. Cyl 3 was the easiest for access, so attacked first. Rubber boot was stuck tight, and just stretched. Tried compressed air, no joy. So just severed the boot with a sharp knife. That left me with about a centimetre of boot above the plug top. Filled the centre with WD40, then slid a pick down between the boot and plug, working my way around. Still stuck. Got the fatter, long pick, and pushed that down, all around. Suddenly it let go, and the remaining boot could be twisted and lifted. Absolutely no trace of silicone grease on boot or plug. As these were the original coils, and the plugs have been changed just once before, it appears that they were not just fitted without grease, but probably wiped clean. This being a Skoda specialist, that used to be a dealer. No point shaming them, owners retired, garage shut. Having got the first one out, it was apparent that the coil can be separated from the boot. For the rest, I gently levered the boot off the coil, leaving just the boots in the head. That gave a larger reservoir for WD40, which may have helped, or just made more mess. Long-nosed pliers pulled the springs gently out. Then large pick pushed gently in, all around to separate boot from plugs. Took a lot of time, but at last all four removed. All clean of grease as the first one. All boots damaged by the pick, as there is little control over it, so scrap anyway. They show a VW part number, I'll research tomorrow to see if new boots are available without coils. Plugs came out ok, a bit tight, but the new ones went in fine, so no thread damage to head. New coils, properly greased, all back together and running well. Took about 3 hours, for what should have been 30 minutes. This is a job for taller mechanics. Knees pressed against the bumper, leaning over and stretching a little, is not comfortable. I now ache across the shoulders, my neck, and the backs of my knees. Happy days.

I have a EFB fitted

There should be a tiny little button on the pillar level with the drivers seat about hip height. Press that after removing the key from the ignition, then get out and lock the car as normal. You can also double-press the lock button to deactivate SAFELOCK. This will disable the interior deadlocks and motion sensors.

You can go into any VAG dealer and get a KESSY key and then get it programmed in by any car key specialist or by a VW garage/Skoda/Seat dealer

After intensive handwash...

A few from this evening............

Welcome. I flagged your post so a mod can move it to the Fabia Mk2 section.

Had the exact same issue after I bought used Fabia 2021. Car should have Apple CarPlay, it's version was listed in the menu but it's logo was missing on the SmartLink screen (there was only AndroidAuto and SmartLink logo for some reason)... You can only reset parts of the infotainment by going into the settings - factory reset - SmartLink. For me, factory reset of SmartLink helped - Apple CarPlay logo appeared on SmartLink screen (the screen that appears after clicking the app button) and CarPlay connection through cable was suddenly okay and everything works fine.

I used black hoses on my black car to keep things looking nice and plain. That blue hose was changed to black since that photograph.

FINISHING a clutch job I think! Finally got the fluid posted ( didn't want Comma so had to wait patiently for more Titan from Opie, refilled and tightened the filler). Good news goes back and forth no issues ! Just having to loosen and retorque the hub nut properly for bearing life before it goes for MOT

No, it doesn't require the MIB to change. Mine was an MIB2 Columbus with a 8" screen when I had the DCC Slider Mod done.

Hello, I was wondering if it is possible to change by how much the ACC set speed increases / decreases when moving the ACC stalk up / down? I am not the biggest fan of the ACC set speed jumping by 10km/h when moving the ACC stalk up and down and I would prefer this rather to be just 5km/h. I also know that pulling the stalk towards the driver adds 1km/h and pressing the side button reduces the set speed by1km/h but this is too little. I tried looking around, but I am possibly searching the wrong terms, as I found only one post (here on Briskoda) where the discussion went off-point and then died. I would also not mind the 10km/h step IF it would add 10km/h to my current set speed. For example I set ACC to 45km/h and the pushing the ACC stalk up to set the speed to 55km/h. Unfortunately it jumps to 50km/h and then I have to pull the stalk towards me 5 times to get to 55km/h.