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White Stork with a chick

I think I just beat my feature discovery record today. Tried adjusting the passenger door mirror to look down a tad more so that I could see the white line of the parking space. I must have moved the knob on the drivers door clockwise one step too far, as the next thing I knew, both mirrors folded in ! I never knew they could do that, surprised the motors weren't seized after 13 years of inactivity. Closer scrutiny showed a tiny indecipherable symbol at that knob setting, which is of course normally hidden from the driver's view by the knob. It's all there on Page 58 of the handbook of course You can all laugh now......

Some pics of the (new) oil separator and the detachable 'business section'. Sealant arrived today, and car isn't needed tomorrow, so I must have a go starting reasonably early in the morning. 🤞 If anyone reading has changed one of these on a CBZA/CBZB engine, and has any tips, I'd be happy to hear them.

It was a pleasure to meet and have a chat with Gav at Skodafest 2025. 20250525_121328.heic

Just collected our Elroq 85 edition with the advanced pack. Very quiet, smooth and comfortable. Much more refined than the e-niro we had before. Great acceleration and so far everything works as I expected. Had trouble at the dealers getting my profile set up with the car, but it worked second attempt when we got home. My wife has created her Skoda id profile ok , however despite several attempts when trying to connect the car to it, it goes away for a while, then it say something along the lines of "something went wrong, setting up as a guest" and won't add the profile. Any ideas?

@Lee01 that looks a proper dodgy place for a nest 😁

Yeah, the acceleration in the 60 was a push back into the seat from standing start and the 85 is allegedly 1.5s quicker 0-60! Trained parking could be just a gimmick then if it’s that slow, but the ability to pull the car out remotely when some twonk parks to close sounds amazing! And I must admit, I do like my toys 😂😂

Ive set up trained parking for work. It's clever but it is so slow that you feel a bit silly using it. The acceleration is amazing! I can't imagine ever having to put my foot fully down, only just to test it for fun.!

Welcome to the forum. It is a Dry Belt. Expensive to change, and up to 2023 Skoda / VW UK was saying at 5 years /50,000 miles. Cost of being done at main Dealers from £800-£1,200. That was revised, UK not a Dust Rich Region, and people not having them done, trading in cars instead and Dealers would have to do them. 6 plus hours they told owners it took. (7.5 hours in the book.) So plenty paid the big money and cars sold with FMDSH and serviced to Guidelines. THEN DEALERS SELLING CARS THAT WERE NOT DONE, SAVED THEM DOING THEM. @Steve2 Where are you seeing that it is a wet belt? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/529390-wet-timing-belt This was pre 2023, but not according to Skoda / VW Group main dealers.

I’ve only been a member for a week and find this site easy to navigate as each model has it own section and each mk of that model a sub section . Mods were quick when I reported a spammer yesterday to get rid I think the toddler didn’t get the attention and threw a tantrum

The worst thing about coasting is the cars coasting and still catching up with slow buggers on a flat road 😂

While everyone’s entitled to their opinion, I think the way one has chosen to express it is unnecessarily derogatory. It’s one thing to prefer another website, totally fair, we all have our preferences. However, t’s another thing entirely to come into this community and trash the site in such a dismissive way. If the roles were reversed, I’m sure VerticalScope the owner of the site you prefer would be thrilled to know one of their members was out publicly belittling other communities online. That kind of behavior reflects more on the individual than on any platform they’re talking about. There’s always room for improvement in any community, and thoughtful, constructive criticism is always welcome. But this kind of negativity doesn’t build anything, it just tears down. If you’ve got suggestions, let’s hear them. If not, maybe consider the kind of energy you’re bringing into the space. We’re all here to make things better, not bitter. Enjoy your site, and don’t let the door hit you backside on the way out…

2020 vRS 245. Ignoring the VW specs and brands (I've heard good things about Millers Nano), what are we thinking? I'm due a change in a week. 0W-20 is quite thin and from what I've seen, it was chosen mainly for emissions/efficiency. A lot of people run 5W-30 or even 40. I run the car fairly hard sometimes and would rather have protection than efficiency. I live on the South Coast and let the car warm up properly when freezing, so I'm not too fussed about cold weather performance. Thoughts?

All, I’ve seen some posts on this previously and just wanted to get some thoughts as a good decade has passed since some of the previous posts were made. I’ve got a recurring code, P1296, throwing an EML. I’ve replaced the CTS twice, one with an off brand crap one which did not resolve and secondly with a genuine. Still no fix. The car basically doesn’t get up to 90. When driving, if you’re doing short journeys or sitting in traffic it might creep up close to 90 or even sit at 90 at the lights. Never goes past 90, never overheats. The moment you start driving, the temp drops again and will sit around 70. During my commute which is mostly motorway, I can do a full 45 minutes worth of driving and the car won’t get beyond 60. Due to the horrific pinch clips on the vacuum lines teamed with me being fairly lazy, I’ve asked the VW specialist I use to replace the stat along with some other suspension work next week. They did clear this EML for me a couple of weeks ago, took it for a drive and said the stat seemed to be opening when it should, fans were coming on when they should etc. They don’t think a stat would throw this error but we’ve agreed to replace it and continue investigating if issue still persists. In my opinion, I think the stat is opening too early on motorway drives. After a long drive where the car should be up to temp, put the heater on 25 and it will be luke warm. I’m no expert, would love to know other people’s thoughts. Cheers!

Aye probably. Our neighbours mum and dad got one. Ordered without the extra rear seats if I understood his strong 'Plattdeutsch' accent. He needs the space as part of his retirement payment is crate loads of Holsten beers 🤣

Likewise

Couple from earlier this year: (not me driving, I was photographing....)

Brilliant! Thanks very much TAP. It connected first time and all is well now. It made no mention of this during the setup procedure so we would never have thought to turn this on. I checked my profile and it is set exactly as yours. Now she can fiddle with the settings and we can both get it set up as we like!

Device part number: 5Q0035874B is the unit in the glove box(I have the same unit now), screens part number is not shown here. If insted of B you had C you could have grid menu. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/468471-infotainment-retrofitting/ Here is a link where it explains those part numbers of units but long story short you have almost everything as C just not grid menu. However, there is a posibility to load the software of the C unit to your unit so you could have grid menu. But there is a cacht, it involves opening the unit and do some stuf. Not shure how but I have seen some one do it. I want to learn more about that(probably exploring more in the summer after exams) and if I found something I can contact you. I would probably write it in my project thread. The one thing that I need to do is getting rapid picture on the unit because I don't have it. As far as i know my unit came from superb and have some coded things that could't be in rapid. I still have some problems with it but slowly everything will be perfect :) I include link to my thred if you would be interested

Yeah but it still showed error, where in normal conditions it should just say refill adblue. Besides, you filled it day before and it shows like its empty. My superb have about 13 liters tank and i think so do yours, so for it to show 1000km range or any message regarding fluid level with just 5 liters missing is not normal. What your car is trying to say is that something in your adblue system is broken (pump, sensor, injector, software error or whatever) and it gives you 1000 km range to get it fixed before car shuts itself completely. You have some problem with adblue system which cannot be further diagnosed without some ODB scanner which you don't have. Take it to shop.

Unfortunately, this one isn't blessed with SE in the manifest file so doesn't work with Seat. However, a Google on the part code brings up what the Russians have been up to on these units: https://www.drive2.ru/b/652194564542564317/ The red menu is where the existing database is shown... we probably knew that. Might be some other bits and bobs in those links of interest. I see from the read, Phonostar is pretty diabolical at having up-to-date logos even for Austria. I'm sitting out Mib3.

All, Any ideas on where best to get OEM or equivalent window trims? The window trims on my VRS are now looking a bit tatty. I’d be ideally looking to replace the full external window trims surrounding both windows drivers and passenger side. Cannot seem to find part numbers anywhere!

So just received another letter from exec team. Still no response from dealership outlining the following: They have a driver in my area this week who can collect the car and courtesy to be provided to rectify works. Although still none the wiser over what exactly they will/wont do. All work will meet trading/skoda standards. Yet this wasnt done in the first instance hence my lack of trust with the dealership doing the work. They will not accept a rejection of the car but obviously would not offer this if they thought there wasn't an issue. As I am within 30 days do they have a choice in the matter? Dealership is fully aware i am on holiday at present and therefore unable to hand anyone the keys this week. So seems suspect we have gone from you will need to drop it off to someone can all of a sudden pick it up and we will do the work that should of been done in the first instance. Ive since raised the case with my home insurance and solicitpr is reviewing the file.

I might as well stick 😁 G

It's a shame that it can't monitor and report on the car battery in the same way. We just have to monitor all the possible related errors to try and work it out.

Only 44 kW 1.2,s are Cold Check, 2.8 litre oil capacity. all others are @ normal operating temp, so an indicated 90 *oC or so. It was / is the Skoda Owners manual that had Warm, while VW / Audi / SEAT had Hot or Normal Operatingtemp. 90*oC is more than warm, do not dip fingers in oil at that temp. Skoda UK said in 2012 that was lost in translation.

Yeah you’re absolutely right! Ordered some from a breaker on eBay and they’re looking much better now, hug the frame more! All sorted!

As pete said - whats the service history and exact engine? obvious question - you have checked the oil level as per the service guidelines for the engine? (some are cold check, some are warm check). Id probably drop the sump and check the pick up pipe strainer too. if its partially blocked the pump load while running higher revs on A roads and MWays might be pulling enough through the blockage to survive, but when the pump eases off it cant pull enough through the strainer.

v1.31.58 of the database has now gone live..... https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_LGe_Europe_v1.31.58.zip

ah thats a serious shame, but fully understandable as to why you couldnt live with it. bloody toerags and morons ruining the ownership of a decent car is a ball ache. (not an issue ive ever had though tbf 🤣 )

Hi Matt, that looks very very clean and straight 👍 hope you get on well with it!

To update on this, found the fault. New switch arrived and i just plugged it in to test before swapping over fully, still dead. Checked the wiring loom in the rubber gaiter near boot hinges and found that a wire had snapped and a couple of others were bent and at risk of snapping. Used electrician tape to shore up the bent ones and stripped the snapped on, then re-braided the cable (didn't have any solder in my shed) and closed back up with some heat shrink. Total of about half an hour's work in the end. New switch will be going on eBay later today, keeping the new latch on the car and keeping the old one in the shed as a spare, because it will probably come in for either me or my son (also has a Fabia III) at some point.

Oops... Missed that vital bit of info... Corfu

My local VAG garage has got back to me suggesting , 100k or 5 years , this is after I've told them my car is 5 years old and on 98k, hmm ! £725 Inc VAT, labour and genuine parts

There HAVE been internal changes. From VAG Self Study Programme 645.

Hello there and welcome! Well this isn't quite as straightforward as some might think. (There's a bit of debate on the issue, TBH.) I think it's worth doing a test. With just you in the car, drive then come to a halt and stop the car with your foot holding the car stationary on the brake, with the gearbox in Drive. Hold stationary a couple of seconds, and then put the DSG into Neutral. 1) If the car relaxes back, as though you've just lifted the clutch of a manual gearbox from light biting point to completely off, then IMO, the time to put your DSG in neutral is whenever you come to a halt for more than a few seconds. Frankly I put my car in neutral EVERY time I come to a stop. I do it without thinking now, it's just an instinctive thing. 2) If you can feel nothing in the car when you put the DSG into neutral, then the time to put the DSG into neutral is when you shift between Drive and Reverse. Beyond that, it's not strictly necessary. (I'd still put it into neutral if sitting stationary for ages, though.)

thanks both they were indeed M10s. but I only had M8 replacement studs; so left them in after cleaning out the threads and applying copper grease. I had to reuse the nuts as well (same reason). They got a bath in citric acid and a scrubbing. Like you, @Alasdair1, the bolt for the metal exhaust hanger cracked off but luckily that was an M8 and I had those. the connection between the mid-box and the silencer was beyond repair. cranking on the nut just blew the carriage bolt socket out on the other side. an angle grinder solved those problems but one of the band clamps was so fatigued that it broke doing it back up. I had a spare D-clamp, thankfully. replacement bolt for the other band clamp came from one of the unneeded studs with two brass locking nuts. getting the front of the exhaust off was a 10 minute job in the end. the back was more like an hour. hopefully the car will pass its MOT now!

Yes, I’ve just downloaded the app again and logged in, lo and behold my scores go back as far as I can see. Got a score of 94 though which isn’t too bad considering I do like to “open the taps” a little from time to time (weather and road conditions permitting of course). Not that that’s the point of course, and I shall be deactivating as much of the monitoring as I can out of principle.

Forgot about one electrical fix that happened a few weeks back. Cabin fan resistor replacement. Wasn't working on speed 1, unacceptable. Researched it on here and found a thread that covered it, although at one point (in a vid?) it's claimed that the three M6 fasteners that hold the airbag in have Tx27 heads. That wasn't helpful, cos they're Tx30, and it makes it even easier to drop one if the tool is a loose fit... Lost one deep in the dash, just found something similar to replace it with. Hope the stray one doesn't cause any issues wherever it ended up.

I can understand that! I’m just a tech junkies is all 😂😂

I've never plucked up courage to try trained parking. Only had Maxx to get the two electric seats which you didn't get with the Advanced Pack. I'd have to say though, that the 360 cameras together with the excellent turning circle, make parking pretty easy anyway. Maybe one day when no one's watching. ☹️

Best stick to the VAG standards on this: 2020 cars - on the TSI side - using the VAG 508/509 standard - which is 0W20. This is also known as LL4 (longlife 4) Older cars (2013-2018) - use the older VAG 504/507 standard. This is also known as LL3 (longlife 3) - and is typically - 5W30 or 0W30. With higher mileage engines, use a 5W30.

Almost sold my Mk3 Estate. Deal is done... The buyer is a Skoda fan (he told me his current Skoda is the 7th one). He is an ex-Mk3 owner. it was a TDI150 with manual gear box. He has been regretting it for it's comfort. He was amazed about the cleanliness of my Mk3, he's really happy. Now we only have to make the paperwork and payment. My Mk3 should definitely leave by the end of next week. The funny thing is that he lives 15mn from home. Thus I may see may ex-Mk3 from time to time.

Why deviate from the manufacturers recommendations, I use 0W-20 as that is what they recommend for my Superb, there may well have been internal alterations to the specifications of the engine such as materials, limits & fits etc, so if they say 0W-20 I would go with that.

It will be going in but not to a dealer, my local guy has never let me down on anything.

I reckon they are probably obsolete/not available as car is 20 years old plus. Might be worth seeing if you can get a set from scrapyard in better condition. Alasdair

Sorry to step in like that, but I’m wondering few things which I believe will be helpful for others as well. If you or someone else know the answers, share them here. 1/ If the common failure point is a sensor, that means the more often oil servicing won’t prevent it. Of course, that’s not true for mechanical parts. 2/ Do you or someone else know, is the K2 sensor updated in after certain year or the gearbox is identical in 2017 and 2024 Superb? 3/ I guess that since you’re there, it’s good to change the K1 sensor as well? 4/ What would be the best source to buy the sensors? I see there are some available on eBay, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404588236912?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Uf4kdw5MRfK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=co51Dma8SCe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY 5/ Looks pretty straight-forward if you are good at soldering. Could it be done if you have VCDS to le-learn/reset the gearbox after sensors change?

K2 sensor broken on mechatronic unit, replaced the sensor instead changing whole unit

Fantastic! Well done.

Or you could just switch it off, I suppose.