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No, i havent seen any of the pms, but that doesnt mean a whole lot when what people see is someone getting cranky on the public side. i know selling stuff, no matter what it is, is a pain in the arse, and every other orifice. and at times makes you feel like just setting fire to the thing instead of dealing with people, but.. you still have a better chance moving on what is a well specced, and should be wanted by a good enthusiastic owner who doesnt mind taking on a project, vehicle, if the general vibe is "sound" rather than cranky.

Thanks for the reply pete I will get a thread repair kit ordered. Ps: the window motor you fixed last year for me on the same car is still going strong !

Also watch the first 5 seconds of the video of the hood opening. The struts are the opposite way to the way he then fits them in the video..... That said, looking at the many strut fitting videos on that channel, it seems 50/50 as to which way up they fit them.

If the fluid level is ok then I reckon its either master or slave cylinder thats letting fluid past seals if pressing slowly. If the fuid level is dropping its a leak somewhere. When you press firmly theres enough pressure to operate clutch even with either a leak or bad seals. When pressing slowly theres not enough pressure. Check fluid and if its low then check for leaks.

Well, I simply do what the manufacturer recommends. I don't pretend to be smarter or know better and I'm not buying all those stories about the big conspiracy. I'm also pretty sure the insurance company would gladly take a low tyre pressure as a reason to decline any claim, so I just do whatever that sticker tells me to do.

I retrofitted the wing mirror caps with the side lights, so now I have the best of both worlds 😁

Courtesy of the passenger, since I was on the M6 at the time.

I’ve just got a Frunk for my Enyaq and will be installing it this week end at some point , I will put up some pics of the install and how it looks This is what I brought and cost me £102 posted from Germany https://ebay.us/m/wbBX2C Here some pics of my box , even comes with English instructions

It's a sad farewell, after 9 years and 165k miles of faultless driving the old girl, a Superb 170 Combi has been retired (from this household anyway). She has been replaced with a Volvo V90. She will always have a place in my heart ❤️ Just a shout out to this forum, its a great site, really helpful when help was required and just a good place to be to catch up with what was going on in Skoda world. I'm sure our paths will meet again in the future. 😁

I wonder if @J.R. would be interested in a cheap RHD Yeti as a parts donor/ project?

@Moorland if you want to sell the car, youve a better chance if your not slaggin people off. 1 person said hey would be interestedbut dont have space for a FOURTH car.. and someone else mentioned it for their wife as a possibility. thats not everybody needing permission to do anything.. I know your new, so, take a breath and dont be the type of seller or member noone wants to deal with.

Coming from a Skoda Superb L&K, which was packed with driver assists, Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) was a must-have for me. I wasn’t willing to buy brand new, but eventually found a used one with ACC — surprisingly, many didn’t have it! The combination of the DSG gearbox and ACC makes for a smooth, semi-autonomous driving experience. That said, I do miss features like lane guidance and blind spot assist — they made long journeys more relaxing and overtaking safer, without needing to constantly check over my shoulder. That said, I know some people absolutely hate those systems.

Whatever your opinion, there is simply no need to repeatedly say you don't take things on face value and imply other people take all things presented as factual. For me, it is actually the social media posts like the video linked that require the most scrutiny. Need to go to sources and understanding what is actually happening. Just having sources in notes are better than Geoff's none, but does not mean journalistic duties had been carried out and sources had been verified. For the bit regarding planning permission relaxation. I don't think the linked source article nor the YT video nor the linked articles in below thread truly understand what is being changed. As the saying goes "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough". But it is clear 99.9% of people would not require planning permission or be affected by this relaxation of rules. It is a non-story for everyone except a few people working at charge network operators. https://www.speakev.com/posts/3781277/ So it begs the question, why was it presented in this way by the YT video? (questioning safety aspects)

It’s got the nut taped to the end. It’s metal which you can bend to hold the nut whilst you screw the ball stud in. You then pull the strap off when secured. Yes swapped it as it lines up better. Thanks.

Ooh... If only I had space for a 4th car... It would be a cracking winter runabout with a recon turbo.... I think SWMBO would murder me though!!

He is just a muppet. Cars have been clocked up for decades to get the tax breaks in the UK. Imported from the Channel Isles. As to relaxed or no need for Planning for EV Chargers in Driveways, Residential Parking, Public Highways in England, that does not mean that the installations have to be to the required standards.

Just done rear springs on my 2018 Octavia - tips Used my steel ramps with wood packing and trolley jack pucks both sides on jacking points, more secure than stands as have a slight slope to driveway, stands under as well, doubly safe Removed both lower shock absorber bolts from inside with jack taking the tension, outer nuts appear captive, welded to the suspension arm, you won't loosen them! Loosen abs wiring from inner wings, mount eases straight out from fork mounting. I found old springs still tight even levering bottom arms down so used spring compressors to give extra 1/2" Fit springs correct way up when compressed slightly top rubber mount located, ensure bottom end locates against tab on bottom rubber mount Don't refit shockers until both new springs located! Reposition with jack and torque to 50lb/ft? (check that! for model) Springs always snap on bottom coil so plan to rustproof before winter! paint fails, water gets in then crack forms, eventually weakening the spring until it snaps!

Hi Dave I put them under the body suspension mounting not taking weight though, that was through the sill jacking points and some jacking pads, jacked up via the suspension arm close to the body mounting. There are substantial frames close to the suspension mountings prob ok with some wood buffers Regards Richard

Hello, thanks for all your inputs! Will check the alternator battery warning light, had completely crossed my mind. The car works perfectly. I will look into the electrical scheme. I think the issue is some kind of communication error between the VDCM and the modules of what I can tell from the OBD-logs.

I also meant to add that it really helps to keep with the same dealer when trying to get a proper resolution to the infotainment system malfunctioning. If you don’t stay with the same dealer you go back to square one each time with the reboot/software update merry go round and it’s hard to get beyond this. I also think it’s absolutely essential to email the main Skoda organisation of the country where you are and get a case number assigned to your complaint. Videos of the problem with sound are essential too. Apparently the clicks heard when the screen goes crazy are a good indication that it’s at fault and replacement is the only cure. Good luck with resolving your case!

Hi SZABO, I experienced exactly the same problems that you describe for over three years with my 2020 Octavia. Endless trips to dealers all ended the same way. Lots of software updates, reboots, fuse removals and replacements, none of which worked. The infotainment system just continued to go crazy, doing it’s own thing and making the car essentially unusable and dangerous to drive. Tired of getting nowhere, I resorted to complaining to Skoda UK by email, detailing as much as possible all the occasions when the car displayed infotainment problems and sending several videos (with sound) showing the faults. I then received a phone call from a Skoda UK Customer Service agent who was quite sympathetic, and a case number was raised concerning my complaint. I was advised to book my car in to my local dealer and Skoda UK would liaise with them to decide how to proceed. Almost inevitably yet another reboot, followed by a software update was recommended and carried out. This was done in the early Autumn, and from then on until early April I had little trouble, apart from the radio occasionally starting up spontaneously. Then, on the first really hot day this year, all the old problems cropped up again including the infotainment system becoming permanently live, flattening and damaging the battery. I took more videos of the system malfunctioning and emailed them to Skoda UK once again. I also copied the videos to my local dealer who agreed to liaise with Skoda UK. This time the help and perseverance of my local Skoda dealer paid off and, after another reboot/software update failed whilst the car was still with the dealer, Skoda UK authorised a replacement infotainment screen under warranty. This was done last week. Since then, despite some pretty hot days, I’ve had absolutely no trouble with the infotainment system at all. Early days, I know, but I hope at last that this will be the end of the problem. My dealer was really proactive and helpful in all of this.

Did some maths and made a new stereo box thingy... The holes in the box line up with the holes in the dash. I'll make some spacer blocks to take up the extra space. I did consider trying to poop the box with an angled bottom to intersect with that plane properly but who has time really. If this ends up needing some back angle I'll re-evaluate what I've done. as is, it's flat plane with the vertical. And slightly recessed. The front of the stereo comes out a bit and I need to make a bezel for it anyway to hide the metalwork and whatnot. Otherwise I chucked some paint stripper at the strut brace and although it's not got ALL the paint off it's revealed some areas of superficial cosmetic rust, so in the coming days it'll get sanded back treated and painted up nice. Just need the weather to cheer up a bit so I can rust treat, prime, and paint the windscreen opening and smash that milestone in!

Hi, welcome. You don't say what year your mum's car is, that could be important. For low battery often they can be recharged with an appropriate battery charger (even VAGs) 😄 but I can understand with relatives and friends often it's easier to replace the battery. Could be electric wire(s), connections, relay(s) or board or other stuff. Did you clear the error codes with your OBDEleven after the new battery was fitted or check for them after the new battery was fitted? Was your phone battery with reasonable charge, OBDEleven program fully up to date, good wireless connections with no drop outs when you 'coded' the new battery (and check for error codes)? Was it just short journey(s) your mum did for a day? First check the battery and its installation, then check your coding of the new battery, mistakes can happen. What were the 20+ error codes? Sorry for all the questions but only you were there and have the car and tools in the metal and plastic and not anyone here on site so it's starter diagnostics, some might give quick answers or suggestions but obviously that not me (other than as I've already put).

Here is a basic diagram, this will work for any additional lamps. Wiring used between relay and lamps, and battery to relay (86,87,30) needs to be able to cope with the potential current draw the lamps have, a pair of 55watt spots would need 15 amp cable. If they are LEDS then that would be lower. Personally I would use 15amp cable as over engineering never hurts and future proofs the circuit if any additional loads are added, especially if LEDS. Wiring spliced of the main beam supply (85) only needs to be minimal size like 3 amp as it only “signals” the relay coil to operate. If you want a choice of the additional lamps to operate when main beam is on, then simply add a switch to the terminal 85 feed.

Welcome back to the fold

Agree, without home charging running costs are much higher. For my car to cost similar to diesel per mile (at current prices of 139.9ppl) I'd have to be paying about 53p/kWh on public chargers. The local council slow chargers are 49p, so works financially just about but massive hassle to go into town for a 5 hour charge. Depreciation has been a bit scary on mine too, probably lost £22k over 4 years. One thing seems to be that many people view 54k miles as high mileage for an EV, but wouldn't blink at a diesel with that mileage at 4 years old. This seems to depress it's value. I hope as cars age people will come to recognise they are equally capable of high mileages. However, with home charging and with solar, my cost per mile last month was 1.85p! Much cheapness.

Thanks Deed. I will do that as it really isn't worth the hassle. Cheers

Thanks for the reply. I have eventually entered the 21st century after much cajoling from my daughter and downloaded spotify to my phone and it works. It just means I will have to start from scratch but at least I can listen to what I want in the car.

If only one could turn it off and not have it reset by default.

For what it's worth, I reckon that's a more satisfactory way to fit them. Apart from anything else, I wouldn't trust that geezer in the video - nobody with any kind of mechanical aptitude has thumbnails that long and can't get a nut on a bolt. Did you swap the ball-ended stud round so that the bonnet end of the strut sits on the outside face of the bracket rather than the inside face as well? It looks as if it might line up better that way.

I would get them to do both at the same time. I always replace shocks in pairs plus you might as well do the top mounts at the same time. I know some get away with doing just the one (normally for MOT) but the chances are that the non leaking one is now weaker than a new one and for handling I would definitley advise doing both. Alasdair

Just checked the front end today by jacking up the corner and making sure there was no load on the spring, which does not appear to be broken, at least at the bottom. There's no movement when i try to move it. So unless it broken at the top, I've made an appointment with the local agent to have a look and price for its replacement. Shouldn't take that long to replace, an hour at the most, so I'm thinking around £250 for the repair?

I had the tiny lights on my Superb Mk3 and now have side lights on my current Kodiaq. I have to say the latter are much more visible and safer indeed. You can't miss the side lights whereas you can miss the tiny lights depending on how the sun light reflects on the rearview mirrors...

Have a look on Kopacek.

I can recommend a Priest to do an exorcism....

Been in that position with replacement old car parts many, many times, we don't buy these parts out of choice but because we are out of choices.

Ours is 10 next March and is currently on 52k and will probably be around 58 by its birthday. There’s a possible wheel bearing at the rear in the way out, and the usual suspension creaks, but apart from that, touch wood, it’s all OK. Still absolutely love the car and have no intention of selling it. In the 6 1/2 years we’ve owned it I’ve still never had the balls to floor it, as the way it heads to the outside lane, making other drivers have a double-take as you pass them and hit illegal speeds at even 70% of full throttle, it still gives me goosebumps. This year, I’d like to get the leather on the drivers seat and steering wheel refurbished, primarily to remove the glossing if that’s possible and to clean the stitching too. I’m planning to fully clean the underside, arches and wheels during the summer break. The only upgrade I’d like is to get the DCC slide control. I did consider getting a VC a couple of years back but having recently driven a VW ID3 and a Kia Sportage with VC’s I still prefer the original analogue dials. I think the 272/280’s will become sought after in another 10 years, given their true Q Car status. Whoops - seem’t’ve massively gone off topic…🙄

Yes, airbag DTC’s always require clearing with an OBD tool. To prevent this, never disconnect an airbag plug without disconnecting the battery first.

New under pants time in a truck and dangerous as it could cause a jackknife or roll over

@Colin170CR You're right. It's the car I've kept for the longest time compared to all others I've owned, and somehow it has become a little part of the family. When you think to past holidays somewhere, there is always an anecdote or a memory that brings you back to this car. And I understand your hesitation regarding what could be the next one. It took me something like 18-24 months to define what will be the next one. And even 2 weeks before I bought my Kodiaq Mk1, I was still hesitating for a Q5 Mk2. I wish all Superb Mk3 owners many safe and happy miles with their car ! Take care to all of you (and your Superb 😉). No worry, as said few posts above, I'll still be lurking here from time to time, though I've moved to the Kodiaq Mk1 forum next door. Cheers!

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And I did just that! It's not a massive difference all things considered, but it's a step in the right direction nevertheless. I've once again been conversing with Pete about soundproofing and we discussed the idea of fitting a diesel undertray which is larger, and comes with a spongy type of soundproofing. The replacement ones online do not, so I'm going to do some research and development (read as trial and error) to see which fabrics would suit it best. That's a post-payday job as I've already ordered enough for this car off this month's payslip!

If you consider that the hood will spend practically its whole life in the closed position - with the strut horizontal - the ram will be well lubricated.

Hi I am sure you have the struts upside down. The rod seal needs to be kept lubricated to seal effectively, this can only be achieved if the rod is at the bottom. Geoff

Hi , As I stated previously email Skoda UK and ask for there recommendations re cambelt car.

Oil & Filter service interval is 12 months / 9,400 miles on a 1.4 TSI iV (PHEV). As to the other service items as required, it is still pollen @ 2 years, then brake fluid, air filter, AC etc etc as per schedule / use and not an opportunity to be fleeced. The spark plugs are still at 40,000 miles even though a car might run mainly on electric. Or then again it might not. The DQ400-e DSG is at 40,000 miles. The cam belt never was at never at 43,500 miles and no longer at 50,000 5 years.

I am so sorry I did not post anything for a while...I had other things to do and I paused the "Favorit 1.8T AGU Swap" project. THE PROJECT IS NOW RESUMED!!!😁 Since the last time I adapted Škoda Superb Mk1 (3U, 2.8 V6) gauge cluster on Bosch M3.8 ECU from my 1.8T AGU. Bosch ME3.8 does NOT have CAN communication with the gauge cluster, so I made my own CAN network for the cluster. I enabled some functions, converted PWM RPM signal from M3.8 to CAN network on Superb cluster. The Superb cluster is also adapted to fit in a Felicia dashboard. I also changed the color of the cluster backlight. Here are some pictures of the wiring loom to use the Superb cluster on Felicia cabin wiring loom without any cutting of the existing wires.

Yeah it was one of the first 280's in the country in 2015 I'm happy with the pads lifespan especially considering my occasional use of the full 300 horses on the twisty bits !

Or you could drive slower?

Today taking this thread back to where it all started again, taken me just over 12 years!