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Finally defeated the ECU anti-tamper bracket yesterday afternoon, so that I could get in and check continuity/shorts for the oxygen sensor wiring. Since almost day one of our ownership, stubborn lambda sensor faults pop up putting on the emissions light. Both sensors replaced with good quality items, and no wiring issues discovered yesterday. Hoping it turns out to be injector related, as claimed by the garage the previous owner used. I'm not sure how they came to that conclusion, but they claimed a couple of injectors were leaking, apparently. I've (cheaply) acquired a set from a much lower mileage 1.2 TSI, and had them cleaned and tested by a localish outfit that I trust. Should be swapping those in next week I hope.

@Graham Butcher We are doomed, doomed into damnation. We all die sometime of something so whats the worry about a few ship fires or retired busses. I have no idea of the death toll with these BEV fires compared to deaths in other fires. Stagecoach have busses going on fire quite regularly, probably more regular than their service.

Drove my Fabia 2 VRS almost 20 miles past zero. Without taking out the pump and look for cavitation or trying to judge if there is pump motor damage would probably too difficult ie fuel pump a sealed unit. The twin charge vrs, electric supercharger as well as exhaust gas driven super charger was a marvel but probably an economic disaster for VAG as such a high percentage need warranty work. The matched dry clutch 7 speed as had a bunch of problems. Mine was fine for both engine and gearbox and I was lucky. Could get over 600 miles range, 0 to 60 in a bit over 7 seconds. Liked expensive 98 or 99 or 102 octane fuel. EV are massively simpler, cheaper to run, cheaper to service. The range and speed of charging can be issues but if not in a rush not a problem. Spend the money you save on coffee, BK etc.

The infotainment system will play flac files from a usb memory stick or an external usb drive with no problem. I think maybe the problem is that your Plenue D player is not recognised by the infotainment system as an external usb mass storage device. I have my flac files stored on one of these Samsung usb sticks, quite small and unobtrusive. Samsung USB Type-C 256GB 400MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive (MUF-256DA/APC) https://amzn.eu/d/4krqAkR Only £20 on Amazon, copy your flac files onto it and you are good to go…

It was their sub-contractor. But Openretch bear responsibility so I'm not letting them off by blaming the hired help.

After faffing around with it a bit more, I am more and more certain it might be a wire in the bellows, because it only activates at a certain angle when the trunk is open, the second it goes close to that point it activates Thank you all kindly for the quick responses

Likely to be damaged wiring between the body and the hatch (in the bellows,) worth checking out. Hope it helps🙂

I have spoken to the dealer and it is a general recall for the cruise control\acc stalk. There was an issue with a batch of stalks. Mine stopped working a few days after taking delivery of the car, it took a while for a new stalk to be delivered and fitted by the dealer. During that time there was no ACC, Driver assist or speed limiter available. All good now.

Try the other end. Possibly a LHD-biased handbook.

I don't know if this is true, but I found this on another forum: “The Skoda recall 94EW likely refers to a recall for a 2024 Skoda Superb and Octavia due to a potential fire risk. The issue is a manufacturing defect where the heat shield between the brake master cylinder and the exhaust may have been incorrectly fitted, potentially causing a connection to the brake fluid reservoir to melt. “

Dremmeled slots in them and used a big flat screwdriver.

This is my 2023 2.0 TSI 4x4 Sportline about to set off from Milton Keynes on a 500 mile trip to Kildrummy, Aberdeenshire. The combined weight of trailer and the 1983 Metro 1.3 HLE is 1,400 kg. I've done 288 miles today, basically M1 and M6 to Dumfries, the cruise control was set to 60 and the Karoq maintained this speed easily. Initially it seemed to be using D6 more than I expected but then settled into using D7 most of the time. The overall mpg for the 288 miles was 32.6 which I thought was pretty good. I did the same journey previously using a 2.0 TDI Touran (same trailer and load) and it averaged 35 mpg. The revs never went above 2000 rpm and most of the time it was using a rev range of 1,200 to 1,800 rpm. On normal non dual carriageways (where trailers are limited to 50mph) it was pulling happily in D7 at around 1,400 rpm. Overall it was very smooth and quiet, the trailer load on the rear suspension seemed to make it softer over any bumps too. Overall it seems a very capable tow car, and working out more economical than I anticipated.

I am a new member and have an Octavia Estate 2015. I want to find out more about the workings of my car. Mike

Use the My ŠKODA App to download the digital certificate for your car it will have the full spec.

Well they keep on rolling on and off the Bulk Carriers and the occasional fire, and the occasional busses and scrap recycle yards go up. The odd BEV goes up as well and all the time the vehicles get manufactured. The vloggers vlog and the news stories are repeated by them. Where will it all end. When will Israel stop bombing and killing, and when will Russia? How many vehicles were destroyed today in war zones, or in countries not at war? Best people stick to horses, donkeys and camels and stay near home and Stop the Oil.

I think you will find internal combustion cars also, just like your claim about EV's, have a reserve buffer built into the tank so that when the gauge reads empty, there are a few more litres left to go before cavitation occurs and start to suck all the stuff that is bad for engines. Any sane driver will ensure that they never get that low and will elect for a quick splash and dash of a few litres if the only fuel available is more costly than their normal filling station.

Many thanks to members who offered help. I managed to reset the service interval myself.

Renault have this policy unlike the many VAG cars i have had. Whether pure ICE, mild hybrid, full hybrid or pure BEV they blank out the mileage left when only 5% or less left. Whether they don't want to be seen to over estimate and people run out i don't know. The fuel gauges seem to be very good ans is the percentage display though as mentioned it is showing the nominal amount of battery that they want you to use not what you can use ie 12 miles easily in tge BEV Scenic and even the tiny batteried Spring did 15 miles past zero as well as still taking 10 miles more charge when showing full giving 25 miles more range than tge quoted 130 ish it said was the 100% to 0% battery amount indicated. Probably not good, particularly in lithium NMC chemistry to regularly go below 20% or above 80% but a few hundred times, rather than a few thousand, I reckon would be ok. Still leaning towards the LFP batteried R5 when it comes out in August but the ZE50 Zoe is a hard act to follow.

I've at least visited several bus depots, and can confirm how they're parked.

Worth noting that's the Sportline Edition. I don't think the earlier Sportline had DCC.

Ours comes with three years ‘infotainment’. Salesman did mention that certain stuff from my car would be missing from the new one but he didn’t mention how much. We did receive another amazing deal from the dealership that enabled us to by a brand new Karoq but I’m slightly miffed to have lost some stuff. The heated steering wheel doesn’t make up for everything though!! 😄

Fuel pumps in cars have their intake sprung against the bottom of the tank, so they suck up whatever is there, irrespective of fuel level. Amazing how few people understand this.

Another large fire, not on a ship or a multistorey car park, but a bus depot. Buses had been parked for weeks and somehow caught fire, cause is currently unknown. He make mention of how they were parked that made matters worse, and having been worked on a large bus fleet, that is exactly normal practise for parking every night, and buses that are not actually in use are also parked like that because of the sheer amount of real estate required to give them separation. One thing he is right about though, is that diesel vehicles do not just burst into flames once they have cooled down, within minutes of switching off they are pretty cool, and certainly not hot enough to burst into fire. Its another one that we will have to wait to learn the actual cause of the fire.

Ah, I was going to take mine in before the warranty ran out. What dealership was that?

Many thanks for your sage advice: you have been a b ig help.

Sounds like a wiring fault (a wire is grounding out when you lift the tailgate) as it is the grounds that are "switched" by the BCU. I wouldn't know where to start looking as I haven't seen a Yeti in person, but would hazard a guess that it's somewhere in or near the rubber grommet / tube (where the wires, wash wipe tube passes through) I'm sure more enlightened forum members will be along shortly to offer assistance 🙂

Also ive just wanted to thank you! I saw on google threads that 4 yo and maybe older and i saw how much you help people. Thank you so much!

Magnificent news!!!! Ive just decided to replace all of the relevant fuses just to get it out of the system so i would not need to check the fuses for the 4th time and aperently one of the fuses was the problem!! Now i kind of feels stupid because i spent a literal week diagnosing the problem and somehow i missed a simple fuse problem even though i check all fuses 2 or 3 times. Thanks a lot for the help, i now know the price of using free diagrams. You know what type of greece i need to put in the window motor after i removed it previously? Also could you recommend me a good vag diagram aplication/site that is cost friendly with diy people like me?

Cr,ap charger infrastructure some places will be an issue. Well reasonable priced infrastructure. So that is 3 charges I have had since away from home. CCS 50 kW charger @45 pence and twice AC 11 kW @47 pence a kWh. The CCS would have been 62 pence. If available. Prices going up in July. To 50 pence AC and 70 pence DC. .. So the Under 50 pence is like a petrol getting 45-50 mpg. Above that is paying too much as far as I am concerned. 75-89 pence a kWh public charging is just crazy as far as I am concerned and just if I really need to and no alternative. But I have all the time in the world. As long as the chargers work. Last night Charge Place Scotland took £2 off me that they say I never paid. Truth their payment company Stripe never charged me. Probably because the charger cut out. £2 was minimum charge. In Ayrshire £5 minimum and no use for PHEV,s small batteries or just wanting a splash and go.

I am never going to push beyond Zero and need a RAC recovery. Not going to drive round and round chargers waiting to run out to see how far an EV can go.

Please disregard what I wrote above , it’s incorrect information, probably posted by someone else. 94EW seems to be the stalk for the cruise control ACC. If anyone else has official information, please share it here.

Yes.

I'm one of the KISS brigade. I turn off lane assist and stop/start the second I switch on the engine and before I move off. I buy the most basic model I can. My car has a key. You can keep most of these so called driver aids and other gadgets. Works for me and I've had no issues with my last 3 new cars, my Ford Focus went 10 years with no issue, and still going strong 2 years later as sold it to a friend. Our nearly 7 year old Karoq has been bombproof and so has my 2 year old Kamiq.

The warnings are correct but I've not had an issue with front assist. I usually have a nose weight of around 85-90kg

Honestly. Another set of tyres, even if both sets of wheels are the same PCD, and they may not be. The 185/60s, on the available information, should not be used on a vehicle capable of over 80MPH.

Thank you for your words of wisdom. Computer tells me I need an initial service in a couple of months, an opportunity for me to have a chat about this with the Skoda representives.

If you don't have a charger installed yet, consider getting one that integrates with Intelligent Octopus Go as this takes your car out of the equation. It also means any visitors can charge at the off-peak rate.

It would t be possible or that practical to do the extras after the fact. Unlike the other comment I find the Canton system quite impressive but it did take a bit of running before it performs at its best

Chills - true, there's an optimum level of driver assistance, too much and you stop taking an interest in the road, but too little and unless on a rural A road, surrounded with scenery, with nice sweeping bends and not too much traffic - driving at it's most enjoyable, possible even with a manual car - things soon becomes frustrating and tiring and you (well I) begin to lose concentration. When in a stream of traffic, I find I'm still watching 6-20 or more cars ahead of me and sometimes notch the speed setting down gradually 1mph at a time if I think I might soon have to slow. Without ACC I don't think I was quite so attentive. Additionally constantly having to manually change gear on a longish journey, with it's accompanying cramp in my left leg, is a tedium I was so glad to escape from, years ago when I went automatic. So for me, I reckon that ACC takes me nearer that optimum level of assistance for staying alert. With the sort of distance my ACC maintains to the car in front with ACC set at default (this distance increases as the road speed increases), I wouldn't have had any trouble slowing sufficiently if for some reason the ACC failed in that fast decelerating situation I described, but it has never let me down in such a situation. Maybe though that's a good reason for not resetting ACC to reduce the distance to car in front and make it faster acting. The only trouble with the default setting is that it encourages cars to move into my lane in front of me - but I try not to get annoyed and ACC helps here (in staying calm) - I don't own the fast or any other lane and other drivers have as much right to use it as me. Exkiwi - interesting to read a positive (but seemingly minority) view on lane assist. To satisfy my curiosity, I would have had it on my car, if I'd had the choice, just to make up my own mind.

The problem is these systems, for legal reasons, assume that the driver is fully alert and instantly able to take over. This is not something Civil Airline autopilot assumes, and they have more time and space. Whilst the ACC might react faster than you might have done, it still has to maintain a legal safe distance, so if it doesn't react the driver can still react safely according to the law. IE the legal safe thinking distance and breaking distance etc. Therefore if the ACC fails for any reason at any point the liability is the drivers not to hit anything. Hence, the problems with different thinking/breaking distances in different countries, where the car could travel through several countries in Europe without stopping and "resetting". My worry is that with ACC, lane assist with an automatic gearbox, drivers will lose concentration and not pay attention, which could lead to far worse accidents. Which will all, legally, be the driver's fault.

Yet more on ACC I'm afraid. Joining the M25 yesterday at 6:30am, traffic already building up, I gradually made my way over to the fast lane with ACC on. The speed of the line traffic of traffic was typically varying between 50-70mph, changing by the minute and without ACC I would have found the journey quite tyring and irritating. Finding I can trust the ACC to work in most situations, I definitely was able to concentrate more on the traffic events happening around me (e.g.motorbike zooming up fast between me and the adjacent lane with very little space to spare). At one instant the lane speed suddenly dropped to below 30mph and of course the ACC, already logged on to the car in front, reacted instantaneously, much faster than I would have done. So I'm sticking to my guns - I like ACC. A pity it can't disengage/recognise a vehicle faster as is desirable - I believe Volvos do this better.

I doubt if they may easily be retrofitted and even if they could, the cost of doing so would be very prohibitive (ie. more than ordereing them as factory fit options). Your best choice is to do a custom order, if you can live with the wait time, which I believe, is a lot more palatable now than a couple of years ago with the chip shortages.

On a run I get 50mpg+ from a DNNA. Gearbox is a DQ381 7 speed wet clutch DSG as fitted to all 2.0 facelift auto's.

Just been picking this up several months after the event, but to throw my two penn'orth on the table, I've had some transformational changes to previously sloppy joe saloons by installing some inexpensive gas pressure dampers from KYB. I put their Excel G dampers (standard twin-tube) into my Mk2 Octavia 2.0 TDi with the small 205/55-16 wheel/tyre, 15 yrs ago, and it really made a huge difference to the stability and secure handling of that car. It was at approx. 40k mls, I seem to remember, and I'd bought the car new. It was on 140k mls when I sold it to a neighbour, and they hadn't deteriorated to any noticeable degree in that 100k mls of long distance daily commuting on motorway / country B roads. Before that, I'd used them on a Mk2 2.0 VVTi Avensis, and they made a stunning difference to that wobbly jelly of a car, doing the same 200+ mile daily commutes for approx. 80k miles in the year & a half I had it for. And before that... I'd put a set of cheap gas-pressure Monroe shocks on a horribly-squishy but mint 5-cyl. Passat 2.0 to great effect, which is why I carried on the tradition. These were all "standard replacement" black twin-tube replacement units but gas-pressurised, like B4's, with no worries about insurance acceptance. If you don't fancy B6's or are refused insurance for them (unlikely), just go with the "standard replacement" B4's (or even KYB Excel G's) and there will be considerable improvement to controllability AND ride comfort, and no legal worries. Also, they are a LOT cheaper... 🤑

So conveniently: Spacers arrived, what a time to be alive! Pair of 3mm and I think it's 4 of the 5mm. Don't really care, after the correct size before committing to better ones, as these look a little too generic/universal. So back out, and gave the wheel bearing face a quick cleanup like the rears: Then coated the face with a thin layer of corrosion block grease, before lugging this thing on: Before this, got the retaining screw, gave it loads of copper grease and then blasted it through the hub with the impact wrench in and out to clean out the threads, before reapplying more copper grease and then using it to hold the brake disc on. Not bothering with torque until we're actually finished. So got the left side caliper out and dry fitted it with the old bolts for now: Ready for trying out whether the spacers are correct. Because the car's not Japanese, I can't just slap the wheel spacer onto the brake and then the wheel (until I git wheel bolts, of course), so had to use a couple of bolts and just...hold onto it: Then try and plonk onto the hub. Wheel wasn't going on, so at 3mm, was still fouling: So off with the wheel, and on with the 5mm: Sadly still fouls, and worse: Left a few scuffs whilst turning. Not the end of the world, but a bit annoying as they're freshly painted. I suppose If I was reckless, I could just get the wheel to scrape off what paint it needed to. So sod's law, it implies 6mm is probably the required spacer. With both spacers in place: It's fine. So I guess I'll try with a 6mm spacer, and I guess if I'm super unlucky and it needs to be 6.5mm or something, then I guess a 7mm! Taking a break from this for the day, I've plus gassed the brake union and hoses for both sides, hoping that'll make the process of undoing those easier, but don't want to sort out that final part until I've got the right spacers. Looking at the fronts, in order to change the wheel bearings, it looks like the driveshaft will need to be clear of the hub, as there's no way the top can be accessed from just looking at it. I'm hoping that means just the ball joint can be undone and that would be enough, but I'll need to mentally prepare for the possibility of the strut bolts being involved too, which'll mean new bolts... Maintenance: £2860.27 Upgrades: £4536.80 Miscellaneous: £820.07

Nice posts, and nice work! I, for one, support spending money in the way you better see fit. Lift is too short and all around you there are plenty occasions you spend money in much less useful things ....

Busy day today on the rear brakes, but first, a post that will probably infuriate a certain someone. So something that has been on the list of things for this car: Some Audi TTS calipers to replace the fronts. The aim was to scour for these until they were at a price I couldn't refuse. This was the case, as not only was it a good price, it was also all 4 calipers, front and rear. Came to £409 with a discount. I did reduce the delivery cost by picking them up myself, so a 3 hour round trip if I remember correctly. This was mid February, and from there, was a case of sourcing the other bits. So things like: Caliper bolts front and rear, and the rear caliper gubbins, like slide pins and those clips that were buggered. Front bolts probably don't need replacing as they're not TTY, and I'm sure they would fit the Audi TTS calipers, but got them anyway, N 910 84 901 at £10.87. The rears are TTY, got Febi Bilstein 48817 from eBay, £12.78. Not pictured are bits for the front calipers, 8W0 698 231 are some clips to keep the pads in place and for the pad contact area to the caliper, £28.87. A pad wear sensor for the Audi TTS caliper, 8S0 615 121 A from eBay at £19.49. The slide pins for the rear (£10.83) and the clips (£6.89) were from eBay, just aftermarket bits, notable that the 7mm socket is now a T40 torx on these pins. I'll have to make a note of that somewhere for future work (probably scribble it on the brake disc or something). Some other random bits like brake hose clips (£3.23) and brake retaining bolts (£3.25), stainless ones, and probably really for the new wheel bearings once those are ever in place. Just random bits from eBay, as it'd be mad to use genuine retaining bolts and risk them seizing. Also a set of brake shields front and rear: Obviously the bits on the left side. The rears need replacing as seen on previous posts, and the Audi TTS ones have these air vent bits, which I suppose is for cooling, yet, feels like it defeats the purpose of shields. Fronts are 8S0 615 311 D and 8S0 615 312 D at £57.20 for the two from lllparts, and the rears are from eBay apparently parts 5Q0 615 611 K and 5Q0 615 612 K at £40.70. All the other bits are for my Honda Insight, basically in a state of disassembly, with a huge amount of rust, in such a way that means I'm not worried about the Skoda. All the bits are being sent to be coated, to something hopefully more corrosion and scratch resistant. Lest the rear shields disintegrate away again. The grand irony being the Insight is aluminium, so it's the rest of the bits that have really rotted away. Anyways, brake discs: I've used MTec for brake discs for a lot of my cars, mainly because they do coatings which seem to help keep the unbraked surfaces hold up reasonably well. Sometimes not perfect though, but the price of the discs make it hard to argue. Set of 4 large discs for £228.48 seems hard to beat. One has to start chasing big money for lighter discs or "better", whatever that may mean. Whilst the wallet was being emptied: Set of HEL brake hoses. Picked purple for reasons to be revealed later. Given the state of the rear hoses, and the fact the Audi TTS ones need to be a tiny bit longer than the standard ones, meant this was a decent chance for fancy braided ones. These were from Progressive Parts at £108. So whilst the calipers were sat there, with these shiny bits alongside, the general grottiness of the calipers meant this was probably the best time to get them refurbed and rebuilt, and I guess be repainted before they were fitted. So dropped them off the Brake Caliper Specialists at Long Eaton, and a week later: So all in purple. Bit much perhaps, but all looking nice and fresh. If the calipers were to stick after this, I'll put the car into a ditch or something. Divert your eyes: this cost £697, where £50 was added because the pistons in the rear calipers were buggered and needed replacing. The TTS calipers are using the same pistons originally, shame they weren't spruced up, but hey ho. They'll probably get dirty quickish once actually used. In spare moments, the calipers were all fitted up, electronic parking brake and stuff like that, in addition to: EBC RedStuffs. I don't anticipate tracking this car, so no YellowStuffs. The Reds spit out less brake dust, so hopefully good news for the shiny calipers and wheels. The fronts are DP32256C and were £116.87 and the rears are DP32173C at £53.84. The rears were ordered circa a year ago, just sitting happily waiting for disaster. Continue to divert eyes: Stahlbus bleeders have been fitted throughout. The rears have the bleed screw in frankly a stupid place, difficult to get any spanners in there. So the idea is that the Stahlbus bleeders stick out a bit more due to it being two separate pieces, so an even longer one means it sticks out even prouder. Hopefully this makes future bleeding even easier. Annoyingly, the TTS caliper does 2 bleeders each, and these bleeders are not cheap! The rears are M10 x 20mm lengths at £52.31 and the fronts are M10 x 16mm lengths at £96.19! Those and the painting of the calipers were certainly not necessary, so a moment of madness. This looks like madness, almost two grand, but is essentially a full brake refresh, and the procurement of parts was pretty much over the course of a year and a bit rather than all purchased in one lump. One can easily spend more once things like big brake kits or more exotic friction materials are involved, so it could have been worse. Been a long post, I'll need a break before I post what I actually did today! I guess the maintenance bits really boil down to the brake disc, pads, and I suppose the rear brake shields. Maintenance: £2860.27 (+£439.89) Upgrades: £4515.82 (+£1515.91) Miscellaneous: £820.07

It's an impossible task for any insurance company to get involved in grouping together different aftermarket shock absorbers, into ones that modify the car and ones that don't modify the car. They could charge more if you didn't fit genuine OE shock absorbers, but that would destroy the aftermarket shock absorbers market...and I expect the insurance ombudsman would overturn such a decision. Most owners have replacement shock absorbers fitted by a garage, rather than doing the job themselves. Most of the time, the owner won't know the make and model of shock absorbers that have been fitted. Even if the owner did know, the information would be meaningless to an insurance company. They wouldn't know how each individual model of shock absorber affects the performance of the car because they don't have such a database. Most owners drive secondhand cars, and wouldn't know the make and model of aftermarket shock absorbers that may have been fitted to their car by a previous owner. If an owner phoned up their insurance company with a list of one hundred possible aftermarket shock absorbers and asked them which ones they could fit to their car that didn't increase their insurance premiums...the insurance company would be absolutely clueless because they don't keep an up to date list of all models of aftermarket shock absorbers...and even if they did have such as list, they wouldn't know if they increased or reduced the risk. Plus, it's a rapidly changing market with model numbers being constantly changed. When there's a car insurance claim, the insurance company doesn't know what shock absorbers are fitted to the car...so there's no data. I haven't seen a single post of someone who has had insurance problems when fitting aftermarket shock absorbers that are similar to the factory fitted ones if the ride height hasn't changed, ie. a straight swap for the factory fitted ones. Here's a long list of front shock absorbers for the Octavia MK3 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/shock-absorber-10221/skoda/octavia/octavia-5e3/58761-2-0-tdi?criteria[100][]=VA Are you really suggesting that an insurance company is going to go through that list and tell you which ones will increase your insurance premiums and which ones won't? I think the reply will be, fit whatever you want... I think by far the biggest problem for insurance companies is owners driving around on old, worn shock absorbers...not safety conscious drivers fitting new shock absorbers. Bear in mind that all shock absorbers do is try to keep the tyres in contact with the road. From a safety perspective, the better the shock absorbers the safer the car. Another problem could be that an owner fits what he thinks are high performance shock absorbers, perhaps because they are expensive, so tells his insurance company...and then after test driving the car finds out that the shiny, new, expensive shock absorbers that he's just fitted aren't anything of the sort and don't perform any different to the old ones...so asks for a refund...Is the insurance company going to give him that refund based on his new found knowledge? If the old shock absorbers were old and/or leaking, most new shock absorbers would be an improvement...so who's to say that these new, expensive shock absorbers really are high performance like the manufacturer claims or are they just standard shock absorbers with a flashy paint job and an expensive price tag? If anyone does want to inform their insurance company about fitting aftermarket shock absorbers, I suggest they don't describe them as high performance because unless you are a shock absorber expert and have specialised testing equipment...you won't know. Manufacturers' claims of high performance can't be relied upon, because those sorts of claims can be from wide boys in the marketing department simply trying to find an excuse to charge double the normal price. Expensive shock absorbers won't necessarily be high performance on your car, if they have the wrong damping characteristics. Cheap shock absorbers should be high peformance if they are correct for your car. Whether a shock absorber is high or low performance will often be subjective. Simply offer the insurance company the make and model of the shock absorbers that you are thinking about fitting. If I am correct that information will be completely meaningless to them due to having no database to consult about the risks posed by different makes and models of shock absorbers.

The problem with these sorts of threads is that the people giving the info seem to assume a certain level of knowledge of coding and using OBD11. I would like to buy a unit and do my own coding but there doesn’t seem to be any step by step guide to help the novice. I’m pretty good with technology but I’m still nervous of buying a OBD11 unit and not being confident in using it. Not even the OBD11 website is easy to follow! I think part of the issue is that a list of posters are not natural English speakers so the translation can sometimes complicate things!

For info - enabling the 'Scandi' DRLs via Carista did not leave the DRLs on when lights turned on on my Karoq.