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I always thought if you pressed the SOS button, Bruce Willis would come and fast rope down from a Blackhawk to rescue you. Turns out it just connects you to a call centre. No bad thing, but I'm not sure it's anything groundbreaking. Then again, if you've rolled it and are injured, it could be one of those things (like What3Words) that will save your life.

If you push the anti alarm button on the B post, does the alarm still go off? Thanks. AG Falco

Save your money and change garages you'll not come to any harm !

The alarm horn unit has its own battery, so I'd think that the only way to silence it would be to locate it and unplug and maybe remove it. I've never checked to see what happens when the car battery is disconnected, in terms of how the alarm would react if the car was then mechanically locked.

Generally, unless it's causing you problems, just leave it. For now, anyway. Depending on the use, you might wish to get the fluid changed (both gearbox and MCU) as you approach 100k miles or so. I wouldn't do it before 80k, but if it takes you a decade to get there then doing it sooner may, as you say, be a good idea. I can't remember the general advice on a DQ200 (as in, what people/places recommend you do) but @Ootohere will.

I changed this just before we went away last week, code has not reappeared in just over 1000 miles so hopefully that is another one ticked off. Thanks for the help.

I don't believe it's a known issue with them, however I'm also not an expert on Goodyear car tyres. See what National Tyres say, and let us know. You've given them normal use, and maintained them more than the average person would. I haven't done my tyre pressures in a few months - I must do that soon. My money now would be on Michelin or Continental. Crossclimate 3 might be worth a look - not sure on your usage but it doesn't sound like SportContact or Pilot Sport are really needed. It's worth saying that tyres aren't impervious to nasty stuff on the roads - I doubt you have, but I suppose you could have driven through spilled acid on the A1 😂 Just be careful in case they try to suggest that.

Let’s be honest - whether it’s 0W-30 or 5W-30, it won’t kill it. The same with my car - it’s meant for 0W-20, parts are optimised for 0W-20, yet so many people run it on 5W-30 or even 5W-40 (okay, they’re mainly heavily tuned GTIs in the US, but same thing). I plan to keep my car for a while, hence why I’m keen to make sure it has the right oil. If you plan to ditch your car before it hits 60,000 miles, ultimately, put something VW in and call it a day. Oil choice between a 0W-20 and 0W-30 is only going to matter north of 100k miles, or if the car is heavily tuned, in my opinion.

Giving an update on this in case it helps someone in the future. I originally went to the garage expecting to have the crankshaft position sensor replaced. The mechanic I spoke to wasn’t entirely convinced that simply swapping the sensor would solve the issue. Interestingly, he also owns a Superb himself (a slightly newer model, but same generation) and had experienced similar problems. He suspected that the root cause might be damaged wiring, which he said is a common VAG issue on this platform. I left the car with them, and after two full days of diagnostics and inspection, they confirmed that the problem was indeed wiring-related. They found and replaced four damaged wires: One going to the crankshaft sensor Three others near the ECU, which were also causing communication issues They fully diagnosed the ECU, replaced the damaged wires, and ultimately decided to replace the crankshaft sensor as well, since it may have been affected by the faulty wiring or at risk of future failure. TL;DR If you're having intermittent jerks, limp mode, long cranks, or random engine shutoffs, especially if glow plug lights or other systems flash up, don’t overlook the possibility of damaged wiring, especially near the crankshaft sensor or ECU harness. On this generation of Superb, it's more common than you'd expect. Hope this helps someone! Feel free to reach out if you’re facing a similar issue.

Hi, as in the title this message started popping up on the dashboard at start up, before I call Skoda has anyone had the same issue and how was it resolved ( car is out of warranty) or is it a legal issue that Skoda must rectify at no cost. Regards Martin.

I mean when the zombies do come and the ICBMs start flying, they will have the last laugh. Until then though, I'll take my chances. After all, I've seen enough post-apocalyptic movies to know I'd rather be taken out by a missile in my car, than hang around for the world that comes after. Anyway, back to the SOS button 😂

Wagner Tuning Intercooler. Wagner Tuning Boost pipes/hose (turbo to intercooler, intercooler to throttle body). RS3 Brake Ducts. SHW Clubsport discs. HEL braided lines You're welcome 🤭

Technically you could also count a Pre-Rinse as the first stage too, before the Pre-Wash - a good technical method is to knock-off anything with the jetwash that stops the colour of the paint showing - mud splatters, birdbombs etc. Knock those off with water so the prewash product has less obvious dirt to remove. As far as prevention - yes you want to minimise the amount of dirt that gets moved across the paint to prevent marring as much as possible, but also removing the amount of dirt/grime that the shampoo has to cope with as well. Synthetic Sealants are part of Paint Protection - I did a topic on that in the Styling and Car Care Forum: here Just to clarify (pun unintended): Water Beading/Hydrophobicity isn't an 'aim' as such, its a by-product. It has become the go-to look for a clean wet car but having water bead means it sits there on the bodywork and if it isn't DI water then you're going to be left with water spots. Ideally you want water to gather and sheet off, leaving as little on there as possible. You also want to aim for a product that protects the paint as best it can - you then decide whether you want something quick and easy which you'll repeat; or a bit more involved (such as a ceramic coating or PPF) but lasts longer. On Microfibre cloths - they're very very small fibres made of 2 types of plastic - Polyester and Polyamide. One is good at picking up water, the other is useful for picking up oil. That's why they're better than terry towel or chamois etc. etc. But...because they're plastic, you have to wash them at max of 40 degrees so the plastic fibres don't melt together, and with no other materials as the shed fibres will be collected and clog up the MF cloth. You're welcome

We didn't go for it. The responses we got from the dealership and Skoda's central customer service were evasive at best and perhaps even actively dishonest. No-one else I spoke to agreed that 86% sounded like a good result -- as your stats seem to indicate. The dealer's insistence it was "one of the best results we've seen" along with Skoda's refusal to say anything about what it would consider a reasonable battery life just made us look elsewhere. We bought an Ioniq 5 -- Hyundai were by contrast totally transparent with us and we've been happy with our choice so far. It's a shame because on paper the Enyaq was absolutely the car we wanted.

Daft question - is the horn(s) accessible at all? I just wonder if you can stuff a rag in/over it until the battery runs out. It won't silence it, but should help. FYI - you'll be able to disable interior monitoring and/or the towing away alarm, but I doubt this can be disabled. I would just remove the battery, put up with it for a bit (can't be more than 30 minutes, surely) and let the thing die completely. I would lock all of the doors with the key, then open the drivers door manually with the key and open the bonnet. If everything dies with the car unlocked, you are only usually able to lock/unlock the drivers door with the key. If it's completely dead, you won't be able to lock the boot/other doors. Even if you were to get an OBD scanner to see the fault, and it was the sensor, you wouldn't be able to fix it would you? The only option sounds like securing the car, dead, and taking it to the dealer in two weeks. Now I'm curious...........

I don't see that disconnecting the vehicle battery can make matters any worse then; so worth trying? I'd remove the thing for you tomorrow if you were a lot closer.

I’ve already pulled the fuse, but the alarm horn remained completely unfazed. I’m afraid its internal battery will only run out of energy after my neighbours have run out of patience. :-)

Absolutely... AFAIK if the airbags go of it automatically calls home and a human will come on the line. If they don't get a response they call the emergency services. If they do get a response then, depending on the information they can see about the car, and how you sound/what you say they will call emergency services or not.

@TheUltraRunner what wheels are those? They look very nice. I would argue that PPF makes sense only on a pristine, garaged car. As soon as the car is outside 24/7, my opinion is that the benefit of the PPF starts to wear off, as the wheels, plastics and the like are exposed to the elements anyway. If I were to buy a new/almost new car, I would likely PPF the front end, just to avoid stone chips, and call it a day. It would be different if it were a 911, as above, but in the real world for a daily driver, I think the car is exposed to too many risks to justify PPF or the like. If it's a garaged, weekend car then sure, that's different. Ceramic coating is a different story, but as @travs can confirm, it is not a magic solution (in the same way that PPF is). It's also worth noting that cars tend to come from the factory a little worse for wear (even Porsche!), simply due to the transportation and manufacturing processes. A good top down detail, decontamination and paint correction would be my first port of call, before applying any PPF/Ceramic/etc

I got my Octavia RS in February. I had never used ceramic coatings before or PPF. My research led me to realise that only PPF is actual protection but it is so expensive I can see what it really only makes sense in a Porsche etc.. Ceramic coatings mostly make the paint look better for longer with less wash maintenance needed to keep it shiny but doesn’t really provide any real protection. If you are giving to choose this you don’t want it done by the dealer but by a reputable supplier after delivery. I decided to make it a point to just wash the car well and frequently myself and buy into a system of good product including a synthetic sealant. So far so good and the paint looks better than when I picked the car up.

The faulty door sensor could well be the cause of the alarm being triggered. as mentioned before, the alarm has its own, integrated, battery, disconnecting the vehicle battery will not disable the alarm.

You shouldn't need one for a while but if you haven't got one consider getting an appropriate battery charger maintainer and read and follow the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger maintainer. Best to when required fully charge the battery as a preventative matter rather than when the battery is in a too low state of charge for the computers. The stop/start not operating when it should is generally the first sign of the battery in a low state of charge if the normal driving of the car doesn't recharge the battery to prevent the drop soon again then put the battery charger maintainer on for as long and/or many times as required to get the battery to full. That way this new battery should last many years beyond what those that sell car batteries would like. Good luck, thanks for reporting back.

Hey man, thanks. It's not what I was looking for and it doesn't really help me, but it's definitely better than nothing :)

I fit the battery this morning, no hassle. All the lights came up after turning it on, but after the left to right trick they all cleared except a check engine light. Went for a brief drive, turned off and on again - all lights cleared! Yesterday I also joined a local Škoda owners page FB group, and a member kindly offered use of their VCDS so I drove out this afternoon and it took under 5 mins to check my system, clear codes, and then code in the new battery just changing the serial by 1 digit and the Ah from 59 to 60. He didn't even accept the beer, so now I have a fixed car and a 6 pack! (of beer ha!) thanks again for your help and advice - I'm sure it saved me both time and money.

Updating the Infotainment system is unlikely to solve all issues; many modules link to the car's central control, and likely some need firmware updates - unfortunately Skoda and their dealership network seem a bit clueless in all aspects of this so you have to be proactive and "informed" in getting them to do anything - trawling through this forum there is a lot of information which will likely prove useful. If you do want to update the infotainment system, then it's a manual procedure detailed on this forum. If you are experiencing SOS errors, I would recommend asking the dealer to update the Telematics module firmware, as this was a common issue with early editions of the Octavia. I have the same car as you and, along with a few other software issues, I used to get SOS errors with it going offline, Sat Nav going a bit haywire, and infotainment system sometimes freezing, and getting the Telematic Modules firmware updated was, more or less, the solution to all that. My car now runs problem-free.

Unless the dampers are actively leaking, this is normal function and you should avoid the garage in question.

The desulphation phase on a Ctek MXS 5, which may get to a maximum of 15.7V, in my experience never lasts more than a minute or two. The documentation says 8 hour max but my guess is, this is the point the charger asks itself why is it bothering when the battery is clearly toast. You may also see 15.8V if you have selected the reconditioning option, but you're really in the last chance saloon at this point. The pulse technology used in the desulphation phase is very tightly controlled in respect of pulse width, frequency, rise time, and amplitude of current and voltage. It's nothing like hooking up a 15.7V supply on a thick cable and connecting it to Sizewell B.

I actually bought a similar unit from an AliExpress seller for a friend’s Golf Mk7.5, and it was super straightforward. It’s basically plug-and-play: you take the motherboard from your original cluster, place it into the new frame they send you, and then connect the plugs. They provide a three-point plug – one end goes to the old motherboard (now in the new frame), one to the new screen, and one to the car. No custom wiring needed at all. What really fascinated me was the quality of the screen – the sharpness, colors, and overall clarity are excellent. Even better, the dashboard itself supports Android Auto and Apple CarPlay wirelessly, which I think is insanely cool for a retrofit. I’ve placed the order for my Octavia Mk2 Once it arrives, I’ll share my installation experience here along with some photos. Sure will do

As you can see in the chart below, ETRTO lists an 8" minimum rim width for a 235/35 tyre. The Octavia Mk3 eXtreme alloy rim is 7.5Jx19. If you want an alternative to the standard 225/35R19, perhaps consider 225/40R19. This would raise the gearing by 3.5%...although some might find this acceptable in order to better protect the 19" rim from potholes. ETRTO approved rim widths for passenger car tyres 235/70 6.0-7.0-8.0 235/65 6.5-7.0-8.5 235/60 6.5-7.0-8.5 235/55 6.5-7.5-8.5 235/50 6.5-7.5-8.5 235/45 7.5-8.0-9.0 235/40 8.0-8.5-9.5 235/35 8.0-8.5-9.5

What an education this has been reading all your comments. And there was me thinking everyone is in the UK, i've lead a sheltered life! I did read through the Kamiq manual, but thanks for those attachments re the battery. Like a fool I thought I'll just pop out and check the battery acid level, that will instantly tell me what to do if the level is low. Lifted the bonnet, but of course this connection box on top of the battery restricts me from doing this. As it's so hot here, I will have a look when things have cooled down, then I will pop this connection box off. Re the charger, I haven't ordered one yet, still chewing things over, but thinking the CTek 5 amp would do me, unless.............

Yes, that's a DQ200.

Same problem, fuse 3 still doing it's magic. Is there a software update on the horizon?

Same. Fuse 3 still doing it's magic!

You will only have active shocks if you have top spec, or added DCC (dynamic chassis control) as an option. If you have mode button, try individual setting (on some versions can call this up in infotainment, car, settings too). If you can adjust suspension to sport, comfort etc then they are active. If not then you have standard shock absorbers

Had you known more about the simple process of charging the battery you might have bought or borrowed a charger and it might not have been as knacked as you thought. It should have least taught you the importance of the 12v battery then and as you're learnt even more so now. At least you could bump start the car then (but a Fox might well have been a new enough car to have a cat so really shouldn't have bumped it but I would have or better still park on a good slope or hill facing down). I can't stand a car that won't start, if you can't start the car you can't even limp it home, more difficult to do even that with more modern cars with their computer interferences. I've always wanted to get myself home and sort the car latter as it's only an annoying PITA lump of metal (or metal and plastic with modern German marques) unless it can be driven. That's why I've always given importance to having a good battery on the car, to start, to power safety items, to be able to diagnosis (the little I can) and sort any starting or electrical problems, and the electronic and computer issues nowadays, I've enough brain-farts of my own without the ones from computers. When I bought old cars if I was unsure about the battery after brakes and other safety items and checks it would be the first thing I'd change. One car I bought very locally had an iffy battery which had been mentioned but the engine need a good battery to start so when I found how iffy it was as agreed I changed the battery at seller's cost but to be fair I made the mistake of buying a less expensive battery to save the seller money as he'd been fair with me (private seller of course not UK motor trade) and that battery didn't do well so I changed it. What I should have done is asked for £45 as that was the price of the battery like-for-like replacement and said I'd fit the (£70) battery I did later (this was mid-1990s IIRC). Sorry I thought I'd put about the 75-80^ thing but it must have been in another thread, warrior put it better than me anyway. I find the stop/start annoying but do think about having the engine turned off to save emissions - particularly when I'm a pedestrian - and more so if a VAG diesel is about! no wonder they're all black! If you want to know more details about batteries you could have a look at the following, but don't get too carried away about it for your car, I'm often accused here of such but I don't really care that much other than having some reliability with the car and it's such easy clean-hands stuff on the otherwise ancient dirty technology of an internal combustion engined car. - https://batteryuniversity.com/

The reason for limiting the charge to approx. 75% is to allow capacity for regenerative charging under overrun/braking conditions (micro-hybrid) Actually, provided they are not subjected to overcharging, lead acid battery life is better if they are charged to 100%, due to reduction of hard sulphation of the plates.

Almost certainly not, but at that mileage there's very, very little chance any degradation has occurred.

Had ours for nearly a year now and very pleased with it. Turn the stop/start off and Lane Assist but that's no biggie. Had to look things up now and again in the online manual including the infotainment system but that's generally the case with all cars nowadays and no big deal. Only minor niggle is when I wash the car is the wheels. They are the ones designed for the Aero trims (but fortunately came without them) and have a channel where the trim fits. This is difficult to clean out of brake dust and holds water - but I'm nitpicking here.

Skoda Service Manual to the rescue. I completely forgot I had a copy that I used when refitting the dashboard last year. DKTB engine code - VW 508 00. Result.

Bye lol

Fixed servicing is when you car has to have a service at 10k miles. Variable is when the car determines when it needs servicing or after 12 months, whichever is sooner. Yours is normal (variable), therefore it's 504 00/5W-30. Either way, go back to your own post! This is for my Octavia 😂

Have ordered a replacement latch mechanism. Will post results once it arrives and I've fitted it.

Today on the news i heard it said that the list is currently 17 EV,s that qualify and more models will be added in the near future. What a half arsed scheme. The scheme must have just been hashed up for a quick announcement when they needed to get a story out.

I think I had a sudden rush of stupidity!

A bit more time spent removing evidence of smokers...not sure it's helped any, but can't be making things any worse... Removed the long piece of trim along the dash above the infotainment screen, removed Columbus screen, removed front side, and dashboard air vents, rear air vent, cleaned front window door rubbers more thoroughly and got into the gape between the door card and internal window seal... The only parts I've not been able to remove were the big centre air vent, and the air vent/speaker cover on top of the dash; any suggestions on how to remove those greatfully received! I had a go, and things felt a bit 'snappy'! The amount of ash, dirty dust and the odd piece of unburnt tobacco that was hidden away was surprising, and really shows it gets in everywhere... That rag was clean before I started. To be fair, the really grubby mark was from the outer window door rubber, but the rest is from the interior window rubbers and air vents! The top of the screen, which you can't get to without it being removed was grim; this photo was taken after I cleaned it. I've been down a rabbit hole this weekend, investigating best cleaning practices, and there have been a few suggestions that cleaning the interior when it's hot is best as the smells are apparent and the material pores are open. With a little luck, the second Airvidox kit is arriving tomorrow, so I'll let the car get hot during the day, and clean the panels and seats tomorrow evening before dropping the bomb. The nuclear option after all this is an ozone generator... Let's see what happens over the next few days. Cheers, Nick

Better off having engine running when that sort of load is on the battery for a little while. Also the voltage to the inflator will be higher then, so will work faster.

If you don't get answers from here I'd try the Superb forum for 2024 model. I've no idea, I assumed it would be working off some sort of TwatNav system by now rather than the hit 'n' miss camera system, not that the also hit 'n' miss TwatNav system should be relied on rather than the driver keeping their biologically systems fully engaged including their electronic system of their brain. On England's 3rd-world roads many road signs have disappeared partially or fully by the overgrowth, a human can see and recognise them but not the camera systems.

Thought this screenshot might be helpful in explaining that it's not just the wheel rim size that needs to be taken into account when selecting the correct sized space saver spare wheel. Because the profile (height of the tyre if you will) is expressed as a percentage of the tyre width and the space saver is a LOT narrower than the normal road tyre, consequently the profile will need to be different to equate. Tyresize.com allows you to see this and compare how much of a difference there is to the road wheel circumference. The 2nd tyre size is that of the tyre/wheel combination which Skoda show on the inside of the fuel flap on my 2021 Octavia 1.0 TSI Technology with 16 inch road wheels. As you'll see it's 3.1% smaller in circumference than the normal 16 inch tyre/wheel but that's pretty close considering you're also limited to 50 mph. It's also important to ensure that the space saver is of sufficient size and offset to clear the brake calipers. Hope this helps, as I too found it all very confusing to begin with!

Welcome. What about the Lemon law in Australia. There are quite a few failures in an out of warranty. Maybe time VW Group own up to Fundamental Design, Manufacturing or Material Faults.

I have just sorted my boot rattle, it was the trim under the rear windscreen. I guess over time the clips holding the trim have become loose and it just sort of flapped about when going over bumps. Interestingly enough, the edge of the window on each side had the worst rattle. I found some foam and pushed that into the corners, between the glass and the trim. I then followed the trim and created a foam layer between the trim and the window. It has completely sorted the annoying rattle, coudn't believe it!