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Dont think there should be any oil on sparkplugs at all. Could be a valve stem seal thats worn or bad piston rings. Try a compression test Alasdair

I think that it is 4 years for "single Iridium" spark plugs and 6 years for "double Iridium" spark plugs - these EA211 engines tend to get "single Iridium" spark plugs. I changed the spark plugs on our younger daughter's 2019 Arona 1.0TSI 115PS just because they were up visiting us and it was over 4 years old, their VAG Indie had left them in as they don't do many miles per year, but I just felt the need to go with what the car manufacturer recommends.

You just need to keep knocking it side to side or get under it and knock from the back With a rubber mallet The rims stick on the centre hub due to corrosion

Lift the strainer out and clean it, post a photo of the actual fluid. If it's not perfectly yellow/clear then ask them to replace again. Mine is 10 years old and fluid only replaced once (I know...but I test it and it's fine)it's clear....certainly doesn't look like that!

If my garage left the strainer full of that cr*p, I'd be looking for a new garage PDQ!

It just looks like junk, ie small bits of "system rubber" that is sitting on the floor of the strainer, I've tried to get these strainers out of there and found it a bit tricky - so left it in place. "Gulping" the excess fluid out using a new "turkey baster" might work to remove some of that junk and fluid.

Before you put the wheel back on, put a bit of copper grease (only a very small amount) around where the alloy wheel and the steel hub meet. This will make life much easier when you have to remove the wheel next time.

Steel hub + aluminium alloy wheel = corrosion

That's not correct looking at it the picture who ever has fitted this strut has not made sure the bracket was in the housing and by forcing the damper/strut tube into the housing has bent the bracket out the lower hole you can see should be where the pinch bolt goes through the strut bracket and the hub housing therfore they might have tightened the clamp on the housing up that much to try and pinch the tube it could be possable they have damaged the new tube stut, most decent mechanics use a tool to widen the strut housing where it's split in the casting to allow the bracket to slide into the housing then be tightened up, if by chance you took thiscar to a decent MOT garge this would fail as this is not fitted correctly honestly why a garage fits one strut beats me they should be relaced in pairs like brake pads discs etc for safety reasons but that's your choice if you only asked for one to be done

Auto hold came in on the Octavia with the mk4 - basically if you have a traditional handbrake lever you haven't got 'auto hold', but you may have 'hill hold'.

In the UK the Service Regime / Recommendation, Guidelines / Schedule / Specification is at 40,000 miles / 4 years. 3 Plugs with the Fixed Price menu was the same as 4 plugs. Some are now being asked for £200 be it 3 or 4 plugs. Greedu Barstewards. 1.0 TSI,s can have 1 plug poor by 30,000 miles.

First emotions after one weekend and first ~400 kms Have to start by few huge disappointments: 1. Line assist goes from one side of line to other side ping-pong 😞 previous 2016. kept middle of the line +++ 2023.03.01 +++ dealer answered, additionally to Line Assist must be activated also Travel Assist, not tested yet +++ 2023.04.07 +++ ping-pong effect can be little bit improved, but fix requires cam software downgrade -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/?do=findComment&comment=5746167 2. Adaptive Cruise Control missing manual mode 😞 few kms in snowing condition and there is none Cruise Control at all my previous 2016. also had this lack, but i have seen several posts where were reported new [Mode] button on bottom side of Cruise Control stick, when(~2017~) it came and when(202?) it were removed? +++ 2023.03.01 +++ solved by coding -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511031-standard-cruise-control-on-an-acc-equipped-superb/?do=findComment&comment=5737174 3. Engine has lost a cover 😞 as result it's loud as diesel, just without tractor vibration. still waiting for answer from dealer, will it be added later or never +++ 2023.03.01 +++ dealer answered, will arrive, no one knows when. +++ 2023.04.24 +++ retrofitted Engine Cover 06Q-103-925-L for 2.0 TSI 280ps DNFE +++ 2024.01.15 +++ received an invitation from dealer 4. Every ignition On/Off resets Driving mode 5. Mib3 head units don't allow upload logos of Radio Stations +++ 2024.01.18 +++ managed to find how to update built in database -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520105-radio-stations-logos-database-updates/ Minor disappointments: 1. L&K had to get Direct Tire Pressure Monitoring System, but mine came without. not a big deal, as i prefer alternative independent dTPMS sets from Ali, just for what reason i have bought and mounted second OE sensors set into winter wheels? 2. There is no coding to activate Eyelashes with DRL 😞 3. 9l on 100km fuel consumption where previous 2.0 TSI 220ps had 7.5 4. Škoda's Moon White isn't white at all 😞 Huge improvements: 1. 2023. Amundsen Canton soundings much better than 2016. Columbus Canton and i predict, it will even improve after adding sound deadening 2. Finally i have got feeling of new car, 2023. DCC suspension has zero parasitic sounds. Instead 2016. DCC had them from beginning and weren't fixed even after couple of manipulations - warranty change of rear brushes, both front shocks, 3x steering rack, and later replace all of shocks to Bilstein B6 DampTronic, which hugely improved driving performance, but noises were gone just partly yes, new DCC is softer than perfect tandem, Bilstein B6 + Eibach Pro, but acceptable in sport mode, at least for first years 3. Webasto auxiliary heater can be activated from MyŠkoda app 4. Blind-spot indicator on Mirrors body is much better place 5. Boot opening now asks for long press of button, but can't be closed from interior, Mk3 had coding for that, Mk3.FL hasn't 😞 . . . . . .

I have been doing a little upgrade shopping from Kopacek (the site formerly known as Superskoda). Not much that needs upgrading on a Superb III to be honest, but a few bits I’ve been able to improve, and one purchase that turned out to be unusable: - Lid funnel for the washer bottle (have done this upgrade on both the Fabia IIs in the family and my old Spaceback - it’s such a good idea it’s a no-brainer). - Mega LED lights for the boot - these are a complete sealed body replacement for the boot lights (left and right sides of the boot) with much more powerful LEDs. Makes a massive difference. I did the same update in my Spaceback, which also suffered from a boot light with poor light output. - Black plastic boot lip protector. Sticks onto the top of the rear bumper and takes the hit if you catch the bumper putting anything in or out of the boot - Tablet Smart Holder - so now anyone sat in the back can mount their tablet using the Smart Holder attached to the rear armrest - Superb branded chrome keyfob tips (did both keys) The one mistake Inmade was ordering enhanced reflector/puddle lights for the front doors, only to discover the ones on my car are just reflectors and there’s no wiring there. Oh well, never mind. To do: - Uprated LED puddle lights for the underside of the front mirrors (now more important given the door reflectors can’t be upgraded) - Genuine Skoda roof bars More pics to follow.

Do any of those require servicing? What is the failure rate of Li-on cells? What is the failure rate of power electronics, BMS and wire connections vs purely mechanical ICE? Are there also large amount of sensors, ECU and wiring connections on a modern ICE? From my experience with modern ICE, I don't think EV are complicated at all. There's far less moving parts that wear out, less sensors that could get sooted up, that's a given. There may be more individual parts when you count the cells, but what is actual failure rate for cells? As a complete pack, is the failure rate higher or lower than modern ICE? Then, if a cell fails, you can replace the cell as shown in the short video and also previously shown very easily done for Leaf battery. End of the day, more STUFF does not automatically equal to higher chance of "ruin your day". This stuff is basic secondary school statistics.

Doesn't look right. I think the yellow strainer is removeable, have you tried lifting it out to see what is in it? Otherwise, can you syringe out some of the discoloured fluid into a clear container?

What did the old plugs look like when you 'recently' changed them? (as you wrote last month)

I have a 2019 MY Karoq, and can confirm that the correct rear wiper blade for that year is the A331H blade. The original wiper blades were dreadful so I changed them all-round for Bosch in January 2020. The Bosches have been excellent and are still going strong nearly 6 years later.

Thanks for your replies. It's certainly not the battery as it is less than 3 months old, plus I regularly charge all my car batteries. Unfortunately there is no setting in the CarPlay unit to adjust the sensitivity of any drop in Voltage when starting. It is just a cheap Chinese unit but works fine mostly of the time. I had not considered it being sensitive to a voltage drop but I will measure the voltage drop at that fuse. Thanks again.

Android Auto updated a week ago, apparently. I think the issue lies there.

Happy to confirm that Skoda Roadside assistance is worth the money and yes, he did just hit it with a hammer :-) Managed to get booked in for a replacement tyre on Monday lunchtime as I have to drive from Cumbria to Stratford upon Avon on Monday night. Was hoping to do it on the full-size spare but this is still limited to 50mph annoyingly 😠 Rear tyres are 5 years old and starting to crack on the sidewalls anyway.

I just saw this rather heart-warming video of a Tesla battery being repaired, and this is what we need to have more of being done in the world. One thing though worthy of note is that for of those that claim a BEV is far less complicated than an ICE engine really need to cease making that claim, as here you can clearly see the thousands of cells that make up a battery pack. A pack is made from loads of battery modules, each module has hundreds of cells and all the complicated cooling / heating to keep the cells at the optimum temperature. Add to that all the complicated BMS required for each module and all the connections in each module etc, any of these is a potential problem and can seriously ruin your day just the same as a mechanical problem with a combustion engine/transmission.

Check the wiring/connector hasnt been pulled by accident. Had similar problems on a volvo and the wiring had been caught by something under seat from the rear. Alasdair

Reusing old TTY bolts seems to be something that some proper VAG Indies and even main dealers do, not really good enough! Okay on some jobs the cost of using a set of new bolts does cost quite a bit, I know this, but it is the way that VW Group recommend - and probably others where TTY bolts get used.

I had the same issue recently. This is what I ended up with (having tried two others!!) https://amzn.eu/d/5MuV3Iv

Hello, It means no network available.

I have access to GEM, but it seems to be a reduced version. There’s some kind of SWDL here as well, it even has a checkbox for manual download, but nothing changes.

My friend’s maps got messed up after OTA update. The dealer advised him to install those REM 21.2 maps first, and then the latest maps were delivered via OTA. I think the OTA update content matches the offline one, just with a different number of regions, since OTA mainly loads the region where the car is driven most often. In any case, I’ll wait for the 25.12 maps, which should be released by the end of the year, and I’ll try with those. My software is the latest one for my unit, released in 2024.

Good morning all. Here’s my very dull story about why I decided to buy a skoda superb. In 2011 I was living in Germany and got into the back of a Skoda superb taxi after a night out with a couple of the lads from work and I couldn’t believe the leg room I had. Im quite tall and getting into cars usually means being uncomfortable for my journey but this thing was cavernous. This lead to me interrogating the taxi driver the whole journey back home about his car, which he seemed to really like and from that day I always had something in the back of my brain about wanting to own a superb. Fast forward to 2023 and I started a new job which required me driving 25-30k miles a year and I knew just which car I should get. I purchased a 2018 Skoda Superb sportline 190 tdi dsg in June 2023. The cabin from the drivers seat is fantastic, the arm rest and door arm rest are very well located and leg room is great and the seats have been really comfortable. It’s been relatively trouble free motoring and overall happy with the purchase. I’m just getting a few niggles I need to sort out and this seems like a great place to ask for help. Sorry for boring you with my ownership story and look forward to chatting with you all in the future.

No, ''Philotimo'' comes from 2 words ''Philo'' and ''Timo'' which actually means ''friend of your own honour" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philotimo When a Greek says to another ''You don't have Philotimo?" or ''You don't have Philotimo on you?" it's like saying ''You don't have sense of your own Honour?" but in more heavy manner, for example it's a phrase that a grandpa says to his grandson if he speaks to him with an insult. A friend says it to another when discover that after so many years of friendship suddenly he became a snitch to the supervisor to gain something temporary, a wife to her husband when we want to divorce throwing her and the babies out of the house etc. Since it's a lot ''heavier'' word that the ''shame on you'' you use it in extremely circumstances as a last defence, when a Greek hears this he thinks not twice but triple times what he did and often regrets. As long as i live i haven't heard a Greek in my age or older to say to other Greek: ''No i don't have Philotimo" and the other answers ''Yes i don't have", it's like admit that your Morality reached the bottom, you don't respect even yourself and you are ''a Nothing".

Availabe in 1080p HD. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0257747/?ref_=nm_flmg_job_1_cdt_t_34 Photos: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0257747/mediaindex/ Skoda Felicia IMDbΈνας άντρας με φιλότιμο (1960)Nikos Kourkoulos and Hristos Tsaganeas in Ένας άντρας με φιλότιμο (1960)

Thanks, this is really helpful. I had a look but couldn't see that list of oil capacities. Would you mind sharing?

You obviously never had air in the ABS unit then. I did once by running the master reservoir dry and only noticed when air splattered out the bleed nipple. I found with air in the ABS you can do a normal bleed and get a hard pedal, but immediately on engine start the pedal sinks right down. An ABS bleed was the only cure for that. You must of just had air in the far end. A pressure bleeder would of helped there too. I always use a pressure bleeder now, like in that photo earlier, they do make the task simple.

Hi All, I thought an update on my exhaust would be useful. I've had good experiences with Kwik Fit in the past, but not this time. I explained what I thought was wrong, but they could not see the fault, they could not source the replacement back box from any of their suppliers and advised me to go to the Skoda dealer! I went to my usual independent garage for the MOT and while it was up on the ramp the broken exhaust was obvious to the eye and it failed, although the car was perfectly quiet to drive. The garage fitted a Klarius back box for £155 all in. The part number is SK121K and is available from ebay and other suppliers for around £75. Because the original exhaust is one-piece the pipe needed to be cut to fit the back box and I didn't fancy doing that lying on the driveway so I was happy to let them do it.

The ABS unit needs an ABS Bleed to get air out of it, if you pushed aur into the system. A pressure bleeder alone won't do it, neither will loosening the connectors on the ABS unit to bleed there too. I know that because I've tried. It was only a OBD initiated ABS Bleed procedure that did work on both my Roomster & Yeti. I don't know if with other models of ABS units it may not be required, I'm simply reporting what I found. It is not a difficult thing to do with VCDS. My Roomster needed all 4 wheels bleed nipples accessable, the Yeti only the front wheels.

I'm going to take the plunge and give it a go! I've ordered the charger, I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers Phil

Many thanks for your advice👍 I only recently noticed just how much better the Audio from Spotify sounds through Bluetooth rather than Android Auto - a much fuller sound 👍 My new Road Angel Dashcam (4k Ultima) has the option to disable the Wi-Fi, but nonetheless continues to attenuate DAB reception in the Karoq. Switching off the Dashcam sees DAB reception immediately improve. Frustrating as a similar Road Angel Dashcam (older the model with no facility to switch off Wi-Fi) has zero impact on DAB reception in a newly acquired VW e-up! 😬

These made a tremendous racket 😁

They havent yet said its not covered - they have only gone as far as saying they aren't sure. I will update when I get a decision. On the positive side - I've now got a nice shiny 25 plate Kodiaq courtesy car on the drive with only 500 miles on.. I'm off to Wales on my jollies tomorrow so I'm going to enjoy road testing it.

my first change was on 60000 kms, in miles it would be 37000 miles.

On another VAG site I see a reference to 6 years or 80,000 miles for spark plugs! While I think 80k might be a little long, 20k would be too soon.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Reasonably sure that the plugs are good for at least 30,000 miles (I think I've actually seen refs to 40K)

So folks, I’ve done it! I’ve retrofitted the progressive MQB steering rack into the SuperB and it’s awesome! Original rack: 5Q0 909 144 R Progressive rack: 3Q0 909 144 L My 2017 206 came with dynamic steering 2.8 turns to lock and I’ve never loved it. Feels vague on centre and then is not particularly quick to lock. Never felt sporty, even after my coder helped me make the weight heavier using Audi coding/setting. The new rack was from a 2017 RS3 with the progressive ratio and 2.1 turns to lock. In reality it’s more like 2.0 once installed in the SuperB. Install: The mechanic installed it for me today because $@&# that for a joke and also I have no annual leave left. After the physical install by dropping the sub frame, the most painful part was having to drop the glovebox to access the fuse box because the wires lead through the firewall. Rod ends and boots were all re used from my previous rack. Coding: Mechanic ran out of day so I did the VCDS coding tonight in module 44. Old rack coding was 9307. New rack was 91170000. 9307 didn’t work but 93070000 did so I ran with it. After that I did the G85 steering angle calibration. Took a few goes as I wasn’t holding it still long enough. That cleared the 7 million error lights on the dash except for ACC. A restart cleared ACC error. The result: On center it feels much the same as I expected it to but once you get to turns of about 20-30 degrees it’s way sharper/quicker. Feels much sportier now carving corners. The weighting has reverted to the previous stock light weight, even in sport so I will have to go back to my coding wizard for a fresh update to firm it up a little. Overall very happy and I would recommend it. Cost for the rack was AUD $330 used from a wrecker. Mechanic labour will be maybe 3-4hr.

Hi all, My old man has been looking at buying a "B8.5" Superb MY20-MY22. I know these cars fairly well as the company I work for has plenty of these, so I've driven more than I can count. However, I found that in all the L&K, SE L models that I've driven I did not like the suspension. I think it rebounds too much and sort of continues to bounce after going over bumps. My dad is coming from a C7.5 Audi A6 saloon, and I drive an Audi S5. I know you can't expect the Superb to match Audi's 5-link but slightly firmer suspension would be nice. My question is; does the sportline fix this? ie. does the sportline have stiffer suspension than the other trims? And if I was to score a nicely specced L&K for him, could I swap Passat or Arteon shocks, springs, and anti roll bars onto it considering the Superb has a longer wheelbase and more weight over the rear axle (especially iV)? Has anyone done this before? He's not looking for the car to be lowered as it'll be a daily driver, and won't consider a Passat or Arteon over the Superb, they just don't have enough interior space. Thanks.

Did you fix the problem? I am curious to know. Do you have images of the piston blocks after repair?

Dropped a mate off to collect a car and spotted this on permanent display in the showroom⚡

An ex-Lagonda engineer who worked for me when we were at Lotus restored a white Mk1 which he would occasionally drive to work.

Many years ago my mate had one... Along with a hearse to transport his drum kit in. These days I still like the GTE and the guy across the road from us has a Mk1 on his driveway he started restoring many years ago but I think he's given up these days

Well after not having a scooter for about 7 years I treated myself last week to a 2020 Suzuki Burgman 400. Needed to upgrade all my riding kit as it shrank hanging in the wardrobe and new helmet. Found a scoot that I liked 100 miles away in Milton Keynes, deal done and I collected last Friday, so instead of a boring ride down the M1/M25 I plotted a lovely cross country route home and enjoyed the ride. Been out and about a few times over the last few days.

Here’s the lid funnel in place.

Grabbed some pics of the boot this evening with the new updated interior lights in place. A massive improvement.