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Nothing more for you but we don't want other viewers to think a new battery will cost £395, these car part places have some strange pricings - database, algorithm, AI, human error, policy, who knows why. £146.08 or even Google Euro prices seem better than £395. I've had neighbours pay about £100+ more to have a battery fitted than they need to, same or even better battery for £100+ less.

Don't tell him your name Pike! 😆

If your use of the vehicle is intermittent and/or used for regular short trips, you will very likely encounter frequent issues with automatic idle stop due to insufficient charging from the alternator.

Hi, yes was an independent scan, I will have to go check when I start it to see if the light does come on We have cleared them and will see if they they pop back up

Did that confirmation come from an independent scan? Do all the warning indicators light up correctly on pre-start check? Were they possibly historic? I'd suggest simply clearing the current DTCs and see if they return.

@Tonyduncan could help himself by answering some of the pertinent questions already asked.

I agree it's not impossible for a faulty component to have been installed at the factory but I find it best to eliminate other simpler possibilities before taking it to the main dealer for a diagnosis and repair under warranty. They will initially almost certainly just dismiss with charging the battery back up properly then giving it the customer back. Especially stop/start because there are so many reasons it deactivates. If the op had said the crossed out a was not visible it may be different. But that does suggest it's working. One question i have missed is "When the op charged the battery where did he connect the negative lead of the charger if the battery remained connected in the car?" and "What charger was it and for how long?" sorry that's two questions.

When the a with the line through it appears it means the stop/start system is operating but has chosen not to stop the engine because the battery is not within the parameters required for the system to function. There maybe too many other demands on the battery Aircon, cooling fan , headlights, heated seats etc. Or the battery is below 80% or a combination of all above. I would doubt the battery or alternator have a fault with the age of the car. Potentially it is use and the demands of the eu that is stopping it working. To explain or prove that theory needs a bit of the cars history What is the mileage now and what was it three months ago at 9-10 month old. Are your trips often or not and short or long journeys https://www.varta-automotive.com/knowledge/articles/article-details/start-stop-does-not-work

There isn't one answer to that as the car has a Battery Management System that dynamically changes the battery voltage. Before starting if the voltage is below 12V then that's cause for concern, when the engine is first started expect something around 14V but this will drop to something over 12.5V after a few minutes except when you come off the throttle when it will rise again to around 14V as the "micro regenerative braking" comes into effect.

I 100% agree, get the multimeter out and start doing some battery voltage measurements.

They must have estimated the location based on journey times through the Birmingham Road works!

Globally, renewables become the world's biggest source of energy: BBC NewsRenewables overtake coal as world's biggest source of ele...Developing countries lead the historic clean energy charge but the US and EU rely more on fossil fuels than before, a think tank study shows. The sentiment that large emitter like China isn't doing anything is now incorrect: " China remains way ahead in clean energy growth, adding more solar and wind capacity than the rest of the world combined. "

Quote from original post - Someone who won't be named (presumably Significant Other ?)

I looked that up and got nothing 😬 (aside from some part number for something). Can’t believe my divorce joke didn’t win any awards 😢

Mine is a 2012 pre-facelift estate (“combi”). Everything in this post is applicable to a 2008-13 pre-facelift car, and I’m not sure about differences with hatchbacks. When replacing with retrofit LEDs, even ones that claim to be “canbus compatible”, some bulbs work and others don’t. It’s trial and error to find ones that work. The DRLs definitely do generate bulb failure warnings with some LEDs, but not with others. Likewise with rear indicators and reversing lights. I have fitted “Antemoon” LEDs (link below) for DRLs and they work fine with no bulb faults. The only peculiarity is that they flash three times, left then right, when you turn the ignition on. I suspect this is simply the test pulses that the car sends to see if the bulbs are working, and the pulses are normally too short for a halogen bulb to actually light up, but LEDs do because their response time is quicker. Antemoon P21W for DRLs: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DP4PYW2K?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1 I have tried replacing the front fogs (H8 if I remember correctly), but they don’t work because when turning left or right the car ramps the brightness up and down, and the LEDs aren’t dimmable so don’t respond properly. I’ve also replaced rear indicators. This took a bit of trial and error because some caused a bulb fault, and others were simply too bright and would dazzle following drivers at night. I settled on the following, which work and are a sensible brightness: Argo PY21W for rear indicators: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374844629873?var=643919891661 Note that PY21W filament bulbs do not fit for the rear indicators because the bulb glass physically won’t go through the hole in the light fitting. For conventional bulbs on a pre-facelift you need RY10W, but PY21W LEDs generally do fit. And I’ve done the reversing lights. These are now very white and fairly bright (but not enough to blind anybody). No faults with these particular bulbs. Antemoon W16W for reverse lights: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0F5B4LK16?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title I’m not bothering to try the brake lights or the rear fogs, because the Superb mk2 is very unusual in using single-filament bulbs for both of these and they both do double-duty as tail lights as well. Most cars I’ve owned use dual-filament bulbs for this purpose, but the Superb must be switching the voltage to drive the bulbs at different brightness - which doesn’t generally work with LEDs. Also, matching the brightness with the single tail-lights bulbs will be difficult without it looking like your brake lights are permanently on. I am currently testing a pair of H3 which my car uses as the auxiliary full-beam halogen lights (in addition to the bi-xenons). This pair were the only ones I could find that didn’t have a ridiculously big base, which I suspect wouldn’t fit in the housing. HOWEVER, I have had intermittent bulb faults from one of the bulbs, so I can’t be sure about them yet. Further testing required. Katur H3 bulbs for halogen full-beam (on car with bi-xenons). Note I’m not 100% sure about these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CB5YK3MW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 It’s worth bearing in mind that LED retrofit headlights and full-beams are an MOT failure if the tester can see that you’ve fitted an LED into a reflector lens, so if I do keep these I’ll have to swap them back for the test. The last thing on my list are the front indicators. On my pre-facelift these are a very unusual bulb - PH24WY, and they look a bit of a pig to get access to. I’ve only found one LED retrofit bulb, and haven’t tried it yet. But these do specifically mention 2008-13 pre-facelift Superb, so I’m hopeful. PH24WY for front indicators (not yet tried): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304561517995 And the above are slightly cheaper direct from the Car Mod Shop web site.

Just be aware that you will likely be fobbed-off the first time you visit Dealer for this, at the very least. Good to go with some ammo backing any claim.

Normaly Index B

I just found on Ovoko 2 radars version B compatible with my Kamiq. Maybe just the correct Dataset to be installed for Kamiq and I think it will be ok. I'll inform you soon

Thank you I will do prob Thursday my obdeleven is coming tomorrow so will scan car aswell.

At 12.4v the stop/start will be switched off. How long after disconnecting the charger did you get the reading 13.2v, it's best to leave it a little while, 10-20min, to allow "surface charge" to disappear. It could stop at 12.8v. If it drops below 12.6v it wasn't fully charged. There are special chargers for stop/start batteries It would be useful to know the battery's resting voltage after an hour so of getting home. Check that nothing, not even a cable for a camera or phone etc, is plugged into anything that may be permanently supplied. To eliminate aftermarket parasites Then check the reading after overnight. The charging system in your 2024 is not the same as your 2015

Yes I thinking of dynamic indicators. I have the “convenience (comfort) turn signals” option in the menu — that’s the one where the indicators blink three times when I just tap the stalk. But I also used to have an option to turn off the dynamic turn signals, and then the whole yellow strip blinked at once (it didn’t do the “snake” effect). However, earlier this year I was at an authorized Škoda service center because the rear position light occasionally went out, and they probably removed that option from the menu and set it to dynamic blinking only. If anyone knows which OBD (VCDS) channels to adjust so that this option can be controlled from the menu again, I’d really appreciate it.

Above £400.00. Note this is for the front right unit : - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6v2941016b-front-right-headlamp-h7-led-skoda-51097.html Thanks. AG Falco

My 2023 4x4 Sportline was supplied from the factory with the 125/70 R18 space saver. See photo below - the 135/80 might be too big to fit in the polystyrene storage that goes around the spare wheel.

So the car is finally 100% fixed? If it was me I'd brush the experience aside and just carry on with life. It may be tempting to seek compo and throw somebody under the bus, but trust me, it's an expensive stressful process and companies often have better lawyers, which you could end up paying for. This is also the reason why I will never seek compo for the current finance ****show.

Hopefully, a good 3 hour drive may fix the problem.

Not been online for 3 - 4 hours so possibly driving. I'd wait until the eveing for a reply

Codes were confirmed but odd there is no engine warning light, maybe the bulb has gone

You would be better going to a breaker. Cant see a new one from a dealer being cheap. Looked into replacing front plastic lenses on my sons MK1 but couldnt find a supplier plus they are glued on. Think there are aftermarket ones available but they may look slightly different? Watch autodoc etc as they will be LHD units. Alasdair

Possibly not a good assumption to make that a one year old alternator or battery in unlikely to be faulty - My Octavia had both replaced at less than a year because they had failed.

That's a projector type unit.

My bad, too early in the morning!!! If start/stop only works for a few hours then that suggests the battery charge state isn't being maintained. How old is the battery?

I bought my 2012 Superb 2.0 TDI in 2016 with 93k km's on the odometer,. First thing I did was giving it an oil change, as Skoda prescribes an oil change every 60k km. I have followed this discipline until today (now 263k km's) and the DSG runs still as if it left the factory. I also have to say I my car not aggressively at all. One can perform an oil change DIY but I prefer to have it done every 3 years with a DSG specialist. Costs are about €200

As I could read earlier in this topic, the fuel consumption by default factory setting is on the optimistic side. Some years ago I used OBDeleven to achieve a realistic consumption level. At one point in time I made the decision to change my fuel injectors for new ones, and yes I had to code them also with OBDeleven. Once done, it did not have an effect on the measured consumption at all.

Thank you

But they shouldn't. If I set a specific function to 'on' or 'off' in the car, I don't want the car then deciding every few weeks to autonomously alter that setting for some reason - I want it to stay as I put it. If it doesn't, that suggests a software issue.

What speed is the car doing at 2000 & 3000 rpm in 5th gear? The TSI engines are better on fuel economy than the MPI. They have much higher torque and at lower revs than the MPI ones. Thanks. AG Falco

Thanks. AG Falco

Yes, quite normal. Get the beam direction checked after a new unit is fitted. Fabia III's can have different lens types. Do you have the Projector or the Reflector type unit? Thanks. AG Falco

Headlight assembly ????? Not particularly familiar with the fabia but yes, headlight housings are usually pretty well sealed. So yes, sounds reasonable assessment to me....

Sent me pm i will help you

On the western side of Spencer's Gulf, south of Port Augusta, South Australia.

Hi all, I've just replaced the digitizer on our 2016 Yeti and found this video extremely helpful. I thought I should share with everyone because if you are like me, I was not brave enough to just dive in without exact instructions. Also, as per the earlier reply, ensure you have T6 & T8 torx bits (this is a jolly good excuse to buy a whole set of torx bits)

It's not unlike tw way a Ziploc bag closes but be careful, the male lip which locks into the female strip at the base of the screen can be fragile and break rendering it at worst impossible to refit or at best partially flapping in the wind. Mine were significantly badly broken when I got the car but not too bad on the eye but I sourced a pair from a breaker in perfect condition, or they were until a short time later when I had to have a new screen fitted when I seriously thought of taking them off myself to prevent damage and wished I had when I picked the car up after and found them broken again. I complained, and showed the garage the receipt I'd got when I bought them, leaving them little option but to buy me a new pair from Skoda which I then fitted myself A little lubrication in the windscreen slot when refitting will help considerably.

No warrenty 2x 5E0035411G Canton rear door speakers 2x 5E0035411D Canton front door speakers 2x 5E0035411H Canton mirror tweeters 1x 5E0035411E Canton front center speaker 1x 5E0035412 Canton subwoofer 1x 8V0035223 Canton sound system amplifier

Personally, I can think of nothing worse that getting a Karoq and making it look / sound like that. 😬 Still, it's not my car so they can do what they want.

Generally these are 'all show and no go', or an old classic 'Peco, does not performance make'...

Just connect USB flash and live it there, it needs time to update and it is done silently in the background. After some time, check the navigation data base version number in System Info, when you se new version that you have on your USB, it is done.

True this............. www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZDXYO_iOx8

Thanks to everybody for their comments. For once I can make some comments that I haven't seen elsewhere. Firstly do not attempt to remove the trim. You are likely to do some irreversible damage. It is actually quite simple to adjust the striker plate. The only tool needed is a Torx allen style key size T50. A T50 screwdriver might work. In my case it would have been difficult to apply sufficient torque to release the tension. Access to the screws is obtained by unclipping two plastic cover plates. The attached photos show the clips and where they fit. Peter