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It was about a trader keeping cars on the road, insurance, and being a problem neighbour. From my standpoint as someone who trades vehicles, I'm explaining why they may not show as insured, and suggesting a different line he could go down to if he wants to raise his neighbour with the authorities.

Hurrah, she is finally at the Dealer. They've sent me a video of our VRS just as it's come off the transporter , Hyper green will definitely stand out 🤣 collecting on Friday at lunch time so only two sleeps, all quite exciting

Nissan Micra ev Renault 4 ev and renault 5 ev share platform Renault megane Nissan Ariya Hyundai ionic 5 and Kia ev6 Peugeot e208 Alfa romeo junior ev Vauxhall Mokka e DS3 They all do it to save money and time

That Ford Capri, which is lovely to drive, is actually not a real Ford, it is based on the VW MEB platform and is basically a rebadged VW ID5 and much of the car is made up from parts of the ID4 and ID5, in much the same way as the old Ford Galaxy and the VW Sharan and the Seat Alhambra of the day.

The dreadful Capri EV is lovely to drive, IMO and the last of the ICE were built nearly 40 years ago so many EV drivers were not even born then. I tried a dreadful MG4 XPower a few days ago. Like sh!t off shovel and all-wheel drive but really needs better tyres fitted. Both available at getting on for 'Much cheapness' used and will be getting cheaper by each month and quarter as plenty about for sale.

WTF is that mat.

If you press both at the same time does it take a screenshot? :))

I am doing this currently and have been able to remove the socket cleanly, so if anyone is thinking of doing it, there are 2 tabs from the black plastic which holds the metal socket itself in place. Slide a thin flat head screwdriver and release these tabs, then it slides out. Then you can remove the black plastic surround, reason you can't remove it is due to it being held in by the metal socket and then it all comes out. Photos for helping with the words..

Skoda dealer Local parts shop Online Compare the prices and choose your risk level

That's right, the original suspension is definitely too soft! There are several discussions about this, almost every week especially with DCC, where the only more or less acceptable mode was sport on my previous 2016. Mk3 220ps i replaced at fifth year on current 2023. Mk3.FL 280ps at first anniversary my choice was Eibach Pro springs (kit from Kodiaq to avoid lowering) and Bilstein B6 Damptronic browse thread in my signature

Mine, from VW - 10A723131 10A723647

Today i fitted new wheels on the Skoda. 19 inch Borbet Y. Perfect fit. Just want to share it with you all

Hello I hope I am posting this right. I Viktorija, 26 from Germany. I don’t know a lot about cars, in my free time I spend my time with things like going out with friends :) I have found this forum because I have bought my car a few months ago (Fabia Cool Plus 2020) and sadly had a few problems with it motor-wise. Thankfully my insurance covered it. Now the only thing left to fix is my Carplay and I have seen some Users helping each other on this Forum, so I hope I can get help here too, to get the software update I need.

PM sent

@EvilBono you must have SMS soldering skills, QNX knowledge and either UART or EMMC-SPI. This will allow you to load MIB STD2 Toolbox into your unit that you can later use to activate new features like SmartLink and othe FEC/SWaP activated features.

Personally I like the softer suspension set up, the Superb is a great car to be covering the miles so comfort is important to me. Mine was three years old last month, just coming up to 109,000 miles, no sagging suspension, it feels as good as new. A few cars ago I had a Passat CC with DCC, I preferred 'comfort' mode so that's what I used.

Welcome! I am new here too!

Thanks, I'll check this. Will clean up the cap and take it for a drive this evening.

Might be that the obd port isnt connecting to one of the pins on the reader. Had problem years ago and the obd socket wasnt making proper contact with the pins in the reader cable. In my case there was dirt/corosion in the cars OBD port. I used a pin to clean and made sure the spring connectors were tight and it came back to life. Check that your actually getting 12v to socket in car and also the earth is good. Sorry not sure what pins are which think pin 16 is 12v supply and 4and5 are earths.

An "electronic" resistor???

I had this on our 2016 Citigo and it was fixed with a new O2 sensor.

There isn't a resistor, the lower speeds are achieved by the HVAC controller sending a PWM signal to the motor rather than a continuous 12V.

2 of the vehicles are showing expired tax and been reported, but mot's are OK He's a young idiot pot head so doubt the insurance is right Done online chat with GMP so its now in their hands Also reported the pick up truck he uses as one of the tyres is dangerous , tread on the inside has completely gone showing the threads on the inside

Yes, I think the pop yellow appears to be the best colour for the Renault 5, which also has some very good throwbacks to the original 5, which is good, not like the dreadful Capri.

i have seen positive reports about Mk3, but none about Mk3.FL ☹️ another question is quality of OEM springs and shocks - on my previous Mk3 rear OEM springs "dropped" for 3+ cms just in 3 y front OEM shocks were replaced first time at 44 kKm under warranty and after another 60 kKm i replaced to Bilsteins with current car i become smarter - replaced to Eibach + Bilstein for me self, not next owner

The actual 0-62 time is sometimes not accurate and they are faster than advertised / published, then the is the 'Lack of traction' Lack of acceleration!. Potential max Power / Torque and the acceleration speed of Stellantis or others EV,s, Family cars, Taxis, Vans etc really does not matter on real roads in towns / cities as there can be wet / slick roads and the ECO Bias tyres that are fitted. Ones to give max range. Also SPORTY ones on Sporty Models that might have Limited Slip Diffs as the Hot Hatch ones are now available with. Same with Hybrids or just ICE vehicles.

If he's a trader with the appropriate policy, they can be insured but not shown on MID, depends a bit on the policy. Ours only shows if we've specifically "fleeted" a vehicle onto the policy, but, subject to a few conditions, we're insured on anything in our custody. Road tax is more likely to be the issue because you can't use trade plates to store vehicles on the road.

Okay, I’ve discovered that if you tap the pencil, it allows you to drag the “Interior Monitoring” bar down the screen… and it promptly returns to the top! I’m guessing that if they are multiple bars on the shutdown screen in future that this will allow you to change the order in which they appear on the screen. Mystery solved.

No options/apps for Android auto or ios car play within the Swing system. Thanks. AG Falco

Kenwood do at least one that retains most Yeti functions. Here is one. https://youtu.be/YpjJQltqfHo

I noticed this as well, and my theory is that they designed the system with a brake "bias" to load first and more the rear to minimize dive on braking, especially when ACC/PCC controls the car and applies brakes at its will. Why I wouldn't say, but I suspect to minimize the terror in the passengers unaware of simple physics and vehicle dynamics and going at each time for the "Oh Jesus" handle which probably does not hold weight "like they used to" 😁 If you drive, even with ACC/PCC on, more "proactively", for example say you are coming up on the motorway to a bottleneck - typical HGVs passing each other with a 0.6km/h speed difference 😄 - lowering the target speed earlier I feel car uses only throttle closed/engine braking, and does not touch, or touches very lightly the brakes, and in that case I still suspect are only the rears.

Thanks for all your help. I've no idea what has changed, but using the same leads and the same Apple phone as earlier on in the week and everything is working now! I can connect the phone using the USB lead and it charges. When plugged in to the USB, Google maps prompts are broadcast over the car radio speakers, and Spotify works in a similar way. When disconnecting the lead, sound is lost confirming that the USB is performing the sound connection (as you would expect). Switching to the Bluetooth connection from the media interface on teh radio then reconnects the phone via Bluetooth

220ps -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485647-bilstein-b6-dcc-shock-absorbers-available-at-last/page/3/#comment-5620484 280ps -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160 I would recommend avoiding Konis, have seen several reports of a knocking sound

Dave, German engineering has been greatly overrated from the end of last century onwards, lots of Mk3 Fabia, at least, have noises from the underside, some owners have changed some parts with success whilst others change lots of parts over time at great expense and still have noise(s). My wife's 2015 Fabia has a very noticeable clunk/clonk from about 6 years old, that was after the two front dampers had to be changed (and one of the new ones was "misting" within 11 months (2-year warranty), still on the car now and still a MoT advisory. I (luckily) don't drive the car very often but last winter when it was very cold I couldn't believe how loud the noise was, and I'm used to 20-50 year old cars' suspensions, all better than the 9 year old VW product! As put you do need to check your suspension is in reasonable condition (for a VWŠkoda Fabia of the age) and of course safe. Drop links and other bushes are favourite to replace, dampers or springs assemblies are also possibilities, other causes of course (exhaust, other). My wife's car has been through 4 MoTs since the noise started, one with VWŠkoda Dealership, another with an independent and two with a decent old-fashioned garage (they don't work weekends, imagine trying to explain that to an under-50!) and I ask them to check the suspension for parts that need changing sooner rather than later, they don't use the same dampers that the VWŠkoda Dealership use as they so short-lived.

My all in plan was due to run out next April and I was paying for it by monthly direct debit. I decided to get an 11 month old Karoq and rang Skoda to ask if I could terminate my all in plan and cancel my direct debit. They said 'yes that's fine....and we will refund this years payments as you will not be having a service and mot on the all in plan. £270 put in my account....which was nice! I will definitely go for the all in plan when my Karoqs 3 yr warranty runs out.

I’ve had and, like many others, continue to have this issue occasionally. I really couldn’t contemplate dismantling (and possibly damaging) the hatch trim to get at the pipework so on the advice of my service specialist, I now use a piece of thin welding rod and that always unblocks it. It’s a useless design IMO and one used on many VAG products.

If the hard shoulder is being used as a 'live running lane' (or whatever the correct term is) then a stopped vehicle on the hard shoulder is no different to a stopped vehicle in any other lane. So yes, in my opinion, worthy of a 999 call.

Some advice on staying comfortable in the car in winter. Some advice is basic common sense but still worth a read. Škoda StoryboardIn winter, heat up your car, but don’t overdo it - Škoda...Driving in winter not only requires increased attention but can also be a challenge for the health of both the driver and passengers. The right cabin temperature, sufficient hydration and regular m...

Hi there, We will be in the same boat on our 2x 2019 Skoda's (Karoq + Fabia). I took out the original "all-in" at the end of the initial 3 year warranty and also a new all-in after that first one expired. I had my first service and second service already as I managed to wangle the first service due in August 2024 on the new policy (but not the MOT). I have left 1x MOT and the warrty/breakdown until 5th August 2026. The 2nd 2 year all-in or the Karoq cost was £900 for the 2 years (so £450pa). If the £217 you got quoted includes a warranty that is to the same level and standard as the All-in warranty then I think it is still "good value" for money. Considering you can get breakdown for £30 from Autoaid (or whatever they are called now) and an mot for £40 at an indy. I bet you the warranty is stingy compered to the All-in. As others have said - a simple thing like a failed window winder motor will easily soak £217 up. And.... they fail quite frequently. My Fabia has had 2 in its life since 2019. Both were at year 5.. Cheers, Paul

I did. I traced the source of the water to the plastic shroud next to the light - water was running down the scuttle and underneath the shroud. Strangely enough the other side was fine. As a temporary measure I just put duct tape over it, meaning to point it out at the next service and get it fixed under warranty, but I didn’t really want the car in the garage for a day while they pulled it apart so I just left it and it’s fine.

New wheel fitted, really like it and the paddles just work

Please ignore my previous posts on this problems. I had mixed up in my mind the repair done on a different model. You can remove the display panel by removing two screws and then release it from clips at the top of the bezel. To reach the screws you need to remove the facia trim from the left and right sides of the steering column plus the central trim over the steering column. To remove the light switch from the trim you turn the switch knob a few degrees clockwise from off and then pull out. After removing the display panel you would have access to the clear plastic panel. What I don't know is whether the plastic panel comes away with display panel, like some other models, or if it is fastened permanently to the dash panel, which I suspect. If you choose to cut it out and replace it, you would have to ensure that all the plastic around the edge are also removed to avoid having a height difference which could stop you screwing the display panel in correctly.

I start having issues with boot closing right during my move to another city. Every 2/3 times it won't close, when I click close, it makes a sound and thats it, errors in 6D - В11D913: Motor 1 für Heckklappe Unterbrechung, В120A02 Usually it means wiring issue, but when I disassembled two drives, there wasn't any issues with it. But I noticed that mounts are very dirty, so cleaned everything and mounted everything back. After 2 weeks - all good.

There never has been a vRS Superb. The Sportline trim Superbs get the aluminium pedals as standard. I got some aluminium pedals covers, from Kopacek, to go over my plastic pedals. I also got the footrest aluminium cover too, to match. Been many many many years now - all good.

Haven't done much except traveling, but I have noticed after almost 6k km that these pads do NOT dirty the rims so much as the previous mounted ones, that were some TRW. Amazing amazing difference! Just by the effort in cleaning up the darn rims - will see after the ceramic coating how it will go - is sufficient to justify the price difference ... Once again kudos to @travs for his great advice. In time, I'll do the fronts ...

Stop using the parts cannon and check the wiring to the "faulty sensor" properly.

Add me to the list, my mirror switch is sometimes reluctant to behave as it should. I get an "implausible" signal on VCDS, I will remove it and clean sometime soon, and see what happens. At the same time I plan other work on the door ... soon will expand on this!

Initial thoughts are this is a positive👍

If you PM me the Registration Number I will check if anything is on ERWIN for you. Thanks. AG Falco

1K0 899 185 (40mm) is correct for the spare wheel well.