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They loo like Lapwings of soe sort or other - but I'd expect them to have darker plumage...

Lovely sunset this evening.

Northern lapwings I think. Not yer soft southern lapwings

AutocarThis Volkswagen proves EV batteries last longer than you...The German Automobile Club has shown that EV batteries can stand up to hard use " The German Automobile Club (ADAC) recently published the results of a four-year test using a Volkswagen ID 3 Pro S Tour. It took delivery of the 77kWh EV in May 2021 and various drivers contributed to 100,000 miles driven. The battery was repeatedly checked at the independent Bavarian Test and Technology Centre during the test. The SoH was 96% after 13,500 miles, 94% after 52,000 miles and 91% after 90,000 miles a figure within the expected range. " and in an unrelated group test: " In a large study of its own, involving 402 EVs of the same brand and battery type, the company found that "moderate driving behaviour" reduces energy consumption by 10% over a battery's life cycle. "

Lots of new reviews for cheaper EVs. Grand Panda and updated e C3, both Stellantis but decent efforts to appeal to families wanting runabouts.

I have just put a bottle of Wynn's Gold Diesel treatment in the tank. To my total amazement the car is running normally again from cold. What a great product.

Welcome along - hope you enjoy using the forum 😊

Skoda did the forced reset and then told me I need to book the car in, so I kicked off a bit as told service guy on phone I’d done that and he said bring it down and we’ll have a look, so they relented and said done a configuration on it ‘prob fobbing me off’ and see how that goes. I had no problems on the 45 min drive home. Below is what I’m currently running 👍🏻

Update. So tried driving around without the parcel shelf and no noise. When I went to refit it into place, I noticed that it wasn’t seated to begin with (!) but now seated correctly, it does not make any noise. It’s too dark (and raining) at the moment to take a picture but will do to show the difference. The irony though is that even with the plastic “clip” missing, it doesn’t make a noise - probably missing from the outset. The idea of printing a 3D part however is intriguing….and I have to admit, I did consider using LX tape or Gaffa tape to do the job too ;) Thanks for all the suggestions.

Now there’s a thought!

From what others have said in this thread it is a factory default reset you need to do via the settings rather than the forced reset with the power button.

Hi there Well, not entirely. Skoda UK have come back and distanced themselves from the dealerships as they are all franchises, apparently. They did, however, offer a ‘goodwill gesture’ of paying for the repair and also offering me a hamper….! I have pointed out that the repair is a legal responsibility, not a goodwill gesture but at least I can claim (for now) a moral victory of sorts. They have also stated that if I’m still not satisfied I can contact the Motor Ombudsman, to which I have replied I’m considering this option. However, not a word of apology from the dealership (who I now despise with a passion) and I have advised Skoda UK that I will never set foot in there again - and after this experience I would also share this advice with anyone who cares to listen ! Oh, I also declined the goodwill gesture of a hamper….

Is it possible at all to remove the one from the other side and get a copy 3D printed I wonder?

To follow up on this. Test drove one today. Liked it so have ordered one. Yay. Edition 85, with Lodge interior, winter pack and transport pack. Currently at the docks awaiting shipping. Would that be Emden? Expected 3-4 weeks. Checked the boot of the one in the showroom Yep sealant and a pump. We had been told nonsense about self sealing tyres. Only downside they wouldn't take our car as pex and deposit, so have to sell it ourselves. Anyone else had that? Yeah its a French thing, but only 3 years old and really low miles.

Indeed I think there is a place in the software to but the account details but I don't think there is or was such a feature in the Scenic or so. Like the new name George, my R5 i am picking up in a few minutes is called an Evolution model. Insurance has gone down from the Zoe to the R5, just a few quid but all helps. How long would car makers require to make the adaption ? There is relatively few volume car makers in the uk, Nissan, Toyota, a few in the luxury sector. Think it would be a manana response.

There is a service TPI with the exact symptoms your having, same fault codes and your HW/SW match too... If grease was a long term solution, the TPI would tell the dealer to grease something rather then replace or update a module.

Motability informed me that their MINI Electric leased to me was part of the trial they were doing with the RAC where over the air they could report issues with the car and alert me. There were issues, but the silence from them was deafening. I was told nothing. They will have known the cars mileage and much else. Well if the system was working...

This feature is called "Plug and Charge". https://electroverse.com/community/ev-blogs-and-guides/what-is-plug-and-charge It is part of ISO 15118 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_15118#Plug_&_Charge (note, mileage is not part of data being exchanged) But as with all things, support is on a car-by-car basis. Many vehicle technically could be isn't being updated to support this. My parent's MY2024 Megane for example doesn't get any feature updates what so ever.

Like Ionity. 6 good ones at Magor and a Subway 100m a way. Plinths for 6 more there. Waiting for 4 to go live near Gloucester, wish it was 6 or 12. Gridserve reliable. Rugby is awesome site. Frankley services also good, Gridserve and Tesla V4s.

Yup, as Lee01 said they still show on Amazon UK for the sum of £10.33. PD

Update? Are you content now?

Hopefully VAT on public chargers going from 20% to 5% or Zero rate fly will be a significant help. Cheaper sourced electricity for the public charge operators, some already give cheaper off peak charging costs ie when electricity is effectively about 7p per kwh instead of costing them 28p per jwh. Lots deals for much lower rates. Think my R5 has talk to charger capability so less faff with RFID cards. Tesla had forever of course Slower than the progress it should be but that just seems to be the poor rules concerning public charging. Portugal was well good and cheaper.

3 pack on the Bezos UK https://www.amazon.co.uk/PNY-3-Pack-Elite-X-Type-C-Flash/dp/B0DSLQQLGC?th=1

Good point on hybrids, how do you tax that without an existing counter to count electric-only miles? I think the fair and KISS way is to roughly pro-rata reduce fuel duty and apply 3p/mile on all cars. Would be interesting to see how they want the reporting to be done.

Hybrids, particularly PHEVs, about to be super whacked as their road tax becomes real. EV road tax will get water down. Wonder if I get some really big high profile tyres I can get the odometer to move slower ?

Still a long way to go, yet before there will be more affordable offerings in all the segments of the market, and also the massive differences for those that cannot charge at home. Also I see that Rachel from accounts is now looking at applying the 3p per mile charge to hybrids as well as BEV's. If that happens, it risks stalling the transition completely as both hybid's and PHEV's are already paying fuel duty and we know that many PHEV's never are plugged in, so you could argue that they are already paying more pro rata than the equivalent ICE model because their MPG figures are worse as they also have to lug all that extra weight around them.

Try a few of the smaller engines, the 1.4TSI will give you around the same power as a 2.0TDI and the low-down torque is still pretty impressive - and you should get a true 45+ MPG with those sort of runs.

Look for RCD 330 / RCD 360 units with green backlight. Or MIB STD2 PQ series.

My Aug 24 build SEL still has the flip top bin

...User Manual? Let's not forget that leaving the key inside the car while washing the car, is a (widely used) way to avoid the car locking and unlocking + folding/unfolding mirrors.

Got a brand new gateway from Ebay. Appeared to be third-shift product as it had the proper label but the Audi/VW logo was missing on the label. Device itself works fine. Did have a minor shock where pretty much every module in the car showed in the gateway as 'module incorrectly coded'. Car started and ran fine. The root cause turned out to be the new gateway came OOB coded as left-hand drive and all my other modules are coded right-hand drive. Correcting it in the gateway made all the errors go away and it just worked. Have stored the Octavia one in case something similar happens again.

Wrote 2 'How to guides' for front and rear brake pads replacement. Just go here if needed ;) : https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/352-skoda-kodiaq-guides/

I have the flip top storage in my June 23 build Sportline, and it was also present in the 24 plate demonstrator that I drove in April 24. So I'd hazard a guess that it changed late 24/early 25.

Just to finish this thread. I did replace the brake booster with a second hand unit (same part number), and the noise is gone.

AI answer

You could try flagging @pab567 for advice on whether that would be plug and play.

Buy a New virtual Cockpit

Tried swapping for known good relay still nothing.

Unfortunately I am not familiar with units used in Citigo

Google Gemini: An SVM check at Skoda refers to the Software Version Management (SVM) coding, which is necessary to integrate new control units into a vehicle or to make changes to the software, often in connection with recalls or retrofits. The process requires access to the official manufacturer's diagnostic tool (ODIS), the matching of activation codes (SVM codes), and the execution of automatic adaptations to the control units to ensure the software functions correctly. How the SVM check works: Preparation: First, the retrofit kit or the new control unit is installed in the vehicle. Connection to the diagnostic tool: The manufacturer's diagnostic tool (ODIS) is connected to the vehicle. Starting the software adaptation: The "Perform retrofit/upgrade with license protection" function or a similar option is started via the "Special functions" menu. Entering the activation codes: The check prompts for the necessary activation codes (e.g., code 1, code 2, code 3), which are often supplied with the new control unit. Automatic Execution: After entering the codes, the activation is performed automatically and all necessary control units are adapted. Completion and Verification: Finally, the fault memory is cleared and the correct function of the retrofit is verified. SVM Code The SVM code (also called license coding) is a unique code that ensures only authentic and new control units are used. It is usually found in the packaging of the new control unit. Without this code, the software adaptation cannot be performed.

System in action, I meant to post this ages ago but I forgot.VID20251110134101.mp4

Yeah! Tried one on wife's car with adjustable grips. It was a PITA. Did mine a few weeks later and bought a cheap 22mm and made life a lot easier.

I understand and that is actually my point. If a fix is relatively cheap it's best to just do it because at least it eliminates the simple stuff and leaves the expensive time consuming thing to the dealers. You had trouble in July and Skoda did what Dealers do, they can only be sure what needs to be done to confirm if they do it themselves. Charge it up and see what happens i.e "Do you come back?" If you had come on here in July it would have been "Change the Battery" You then came on here on 31st October and immediately were pointed towards the "battery" Main dealers have waiting lists for scheduled work so they are doing it "As soon as they can" I have Fords mainly and they were the same I had a dsg fail and it was a fortnight to get in, "change oil and filter" a month later it failed again another week to get in "new gearbox unit" With Skoda i was contacted recently to book an "Inspection" when i rang "two weeks away" so I thought to also book it in for the MOT in January now in case they say "too busy" when it's due. On the what if it isn't the battery, if in July you had just bought a Battery and the problem could have been sorted but had it continued you would now be having whatever the problem was sorted next Tuesday under the warranty. If on Tuesday they change the Battery will you "feel" any different than you do now. Because you will still have the wonder of what if it isn't. My peace of mind is worth more than the price of a battery four or five months ago. When they do change the battery next Tuesday and it fixes it. Start looking around for your next nearest Dealer to go to in future because the one you are using is incompetent.

Before you buy anything, check the wiring between the door and A pillar in the bellows for broken wires.

Update as promised! Garage reported that front near side shock is leaking, which would explain the symptoms I reported. Of course it was raining yesterday so the creaky bushes were quiet when I drove to them, but they know it’s an issue with the MQB cars. We had a good chat about what I want from the car, and decided to stick with standard suspension, rather than upgrade it. They’re going to price up a few options (genuine/OEM shocks) and give me a worst case scenario price including bushes, drop links, etc. They gave the car a full once over, and other than the suspension, gave it a clean bill of health, which was a relief! Will report back again once it’s done!

A few from the local Reservoir and nearby Country Park....... Time for a Snooze 😴 Little and Large 😁 Not come across these before 🤔 Full Steam Ahead! And a few others.....................

I don't think this has been posted before, but if it has, I apologise for the duplication.

You get through them !!

It was coded in wrong when replaced. It was coded as though the CC was on the indicator stalk when it is actually a separate switch in the column. He recoded it in as a separate switch and all has been ok since. Unfortunately he didnt save the code or backup it up before replacement, so he just coded it as he thought. Tried to put the old one back on to read the code but it failed when doing so. Not sure yours will be the same issues but worth checking it's coded as the right type of switch.

Did you download the proper data set file to your radars;