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Just to state the obvious. She was driving a GTD now she's driving a petrol car.

Many thanks! I had hoped to only have one on the rear left - the garage did just that, extended a wire from the driver side (right in this case) to the left rear fog light, and then one from left to right - the idea was to swap them over, giving me only one rear fog light on the left... What happened was both now light - the garage is not sure why and the error message comes up. I think I will have to double check what the garage did - maybe they only jumped the right side to the left. Thanks! Just read your follow up - yes, I am thinking they maybe only jumped a wire from the right to left and this could be the problem! Cheers! 👍

You could try a smart bypass relay for towing and wire the fog lights to it. I first fitted a towbar to a Seat but when trailer was connected the blown bulb symbol illuminated. I then fitted a smart bypass relay system and all was good. Only thing I had to do was run a live from +ve battery terminal with an in line fuse. On my octavia it was already in place on right hand side in boot.

That rain sensor on the windscreen is only for the auto wipers, so that will have no effect on the brakes. I suspect that one or more of the wheel speed sensors is being affected by the rain.

I filled it, unless Esso had diesel in their petrol tank, which smelt like petrol, no mis-fuelling occurred 😉 It was, I love the smell of petrol!

Electronic handbrake was possibly both a money saving and money creating, manual handbrakes can last many years and even decades with just usual brake adjustment (unless they're designed badly like on my wife's previous car whereas electronic are not as long lasting and more expense and generally haste to sort. A neighbour's new in 2023 Nissan Cashcow had the electronic handbrake fail to come off so he had to be recovered and it was horrible to operate particularly in a manual gearbox car. Don't get me goin' on modern cars unnecessary 'features' and "assists" . . . 😄

I was very happy with my mk3 2.0TDI manual for 8 years. Not a single fault. Sold it with 150 000 km on the clock. It didn't had too many extras: AFS xenons, rear camera, heated windshield, no assistance systems at all and cloth seats. So nothing special, but still - a comfortable car for the price. The only downside was sound insulation. Not terrible, but for such a nice interior quality, insulation was the only thing I thought could be better. But it was time to get something new. Was thinking to try something new. Never liked SUVs, so the choise is narrow. Passat for my tasted was too ugly. I knew it's probably a better car and could get the same specs as Superb for the same price, but it wass too ugly. Then thought about Audi A5. Took the test drive and was disappointed a lot. I expected a feeling better than Superb. But: parts below were the same hard plastic. Door gaskets were faulty for a new tested car. Standard trims, with door panels from cloth looked like they are taken from golf mk2. Leather seats could fix this, but even then, trim in center console is hard terribly looking plastic... everything felt cheap. For 5000! I could get S line alcantara seats, which were better and with no terrible plastic trims in center console. But this raised already high price to almost 60 000 Eur with discount already. And with no such extras like heated rear seats, no heated windscreen, no matrix lights. Then decided to give a try for a superb. When I went to dealer and checked Sportline interior, I felt it's a different class to audi A5. Quality was everywhere: firm alcantara seats, hard plastic in audi replaced by alcantara trimmings everywhere in Superb. Got a price for a high spec superb 14000 eur less to A5. With many more extras too. And realized that I just maybe can't afford a good Audi. So just ordered Superb. So now why am I writing this long story? Well, while I was waiting for the car to be delivered, I started reading reviews. I know I had to do it before ordering :) But reviews are usually paid by manufacturers, so I started looking for user comments. And these were terrible everywhere. Everybody compared it to mk3 and almost everyone said mk3 is miles better car. So I waited for a new car with fear. Finally, It arrived last week. Already 2000km on the clock. And after this, I can say that all negative comments comes from people who had never driven it. Maybe never even seen it live. I wasn's expecting many changes, as platform is the same. But mk4 is from another world compared to mk3. Interior quality is even better, sportline seats are very comfortable. Sound insulation is better regarding wind and road noise. Probably engine is a bit noisier. Unless it will get better when it runs in. Also about the engine. I was expecting it to be the same as previous, as its also 110kw tdi. But it much livier. And handling in corners is similar to A5. Which was the only positive thing from my test drive. It's a lot better than mk3, and not bouncing and rolling anymore. Though, don't know if it's related to sportline trim. But in general - everything is better in mk4. Except maybe Canton system - was expecting more. But also didn't have time to play with settings. A lot complains about too sensitive asssitance systems. I think these works well. They are designed to assist and even if they are on the sensitive side, this is why they are designed for - to protect in advance. So after all, I'm really surprised about the car. Big comfortable car, with super quality interior. In real life it looks better than in videos. And digital cluster everyone is complaining about, looks a lot better in reality too. So my advice - just go for it. And you will never look back to mk3. Which is a very good car, but mk4 is just better.

Cool! Thanks! I've managed to find a video where someone shows how they fitted one for a towbar, and think I understand how to use it as a relay between the left/right crossover wiring. As for power - I reckon I'd have to run it from the battery because there's no lighter socket in my Octavia. Very many thanks, if I can work out how to fit the bypass relay, it should 'mask' what's going on and sort things out... 🤞

I think the daylight sensor is just over-sensitive to low light. When I bought mine in June it would switch early evening, in bright sunshine. There is a setting for sensitivity & reducing that helped, but even on it's lowest setting it's been on pretty much all week in the dull weather. Note that changing the setting doesn't appear to be dynamic, in that it doesn't take immediate effect. You have to change the setting & then it takes effect next time you start the car. As for the app, could your subscription have expired?

I had a glitch with my satnav today where the main screen map froze but directions still appeared on screen and in the dash. By fluke it was fixed by using the menu to show map in dash, which was updating correctly and switching back to the main screen which then worked correctly again. I have had the main screen map display switch to dark mode quite big recently due to the dull overcast weather I think.

😏

I'll check that out - my father in law has a diagnostic kit. I'll see if it can switch this off for the TUV, then look for a more permanent solution. Many thanks!

@Crai I don't know for the Octavia you have but I believe Carista can disable the bulb check for my Rapid. It may be possible to use that or similar or VCDS to code out the fog light bulb check on your Octavia?

System update 1989 downloaded OTA (1.5 gb, esim, < 30 min) and installed (< 30 min) + Factory reset. No problems (yet). Solution to no system updates OTA (despite the manual associated with your VIN saying it is a supported function as well as it being one of the available Skoda Connect services for your VIN according to skoda-auto.com, and despite you having fulfilled all the requirements necessary to activate the service as described in the manual): make Skoda update the firmware of your car's OCU to (at least) version 0144.

My wife had one of the last of the mk1 Tiguans in 2015, so it had the then new 150PS Diesel with Ad Blue, with DSG and 4Motion. She switched to the 1.5 150PS DSG Karoq a couple of years ago. Her use is exactly the same - semi-rural trips of a few miles to the shops, picking grandchildren up from school etc. I spreadsheet the MPG and the long-term average is exactly the same - 38MPG. Of course the Tiguan was 4Motion, and for most of its life it used V-Power, then switched to Costco stuff. Use standard Costco petrol in the Karoq.

My 2014 LHD (in Germany) Rapid has a single foglight on the rear only on the driver's side What about extending the wiring from the your driver's side to the passenger side or must it have two foglights?

Two keys, neither of them would make it start

Have you got or able to borrow a multimeter?, if so, while watching the M.meter set to 20VDC or nearest and with the probes on the battery + and - terminals, get someone to start the car, the terminal volts will/should rise to almost 15V even if only for less than 20 seconds or so, at least this will show you that the alternator is not at fault, of course it still could be the BMS. You could pop in to Halfords or the like and buy a DVM (digital volt meter) for a few quid and plug it in to your auxiliary power point and observe the charging pattern (carefully, while driving), the voltage should always rise to almost 15V (14.6/14.9) on the overrun and may hover around 13.2/13.5V while driving, mine seems to do this (original almost 7 year old 59AH EFB battery) even with a 68% SOC and can take days to recover to its normal max of 85% SOC, stop/start has never failed though even at this low SOC. If you can'r source a DVM, you can make one up with a 12V plug, a bit of wire and a connector block and stick the M.meter probes into it if you only want to trouble shoot the (if) problem.

Someone on ebay selling complete loom for £6.50 eBay UKGENUINE SKODA OCTAVIA MK2 STEERING WHEEL AIRBAG WIRE LOOM...GENUINE SKODA OCTAVIA MK2 STEERING WHEEL AIRBAG WIRE LOOM 1K0971584 2009-2013I reckon its a skoda/vw only part so maybe dealers as well.

Your lighting error will be because the fog light circuit is now sensing a higher current than expected (because of the extra lamp wired-in) Was the change entered into the can bus?

When I was searching for info on the Rapid alarm siren module I found a document that listed two, so I assume they used both on this generation of Rapid. My advice would be to remove your siren module and open it up before buying a battery, unlike me who now has the wrong batt. sitting on my desk. It's located under the scuttle cover, I've circled the bracket it's in, in the first pic. Pop the caps off the wiper hubs and remove the nuts. IIRC they're 13mm. Remove the wiper arms and then the rubber strip that runs along the bottom of the plastic cover. Remove the plastic scuttle cover. This is where the easy stuff ended. The 2nd pic shows the silver bracket and it's rivited onto the car body. I couldn't see any other way of getting the siren out without cutting the tops off the rivets. You can't drill them as there's no access. 3rd pic shows the side view, the siren is the black plastic part (circled) sticking out from the silver bracket. The wire and plug above are connected to the siren. A standard hacksaw blade was too deep to fit so I put a junior hacksaw blade into the handle (4th pic) until I'd cut enough to get the full sized blade in. This is incorrect use of the tool so you do this at your own risk. Once cut I used a thin, long, flat bladed screwdriver to prise the brackets apart. It did bend the metal on the body but I can't really see a way of avoiding that. This gets the silver bracket into a state where you can put your hand in from the side and maneuver it such that you can slide a spanner in to undo the bolt holding the siren to the bracket. 5th pic. Once that bolt is off you can fangle the siren into a position where you can get a screwdriver in to release the electrical plug and then get the siren out the side. You can also remove the silver bracket this way if you need to, once the siren is out. It's a faff but you can get it out. I found the best position was with the silver bracket rotated so the siren can be pulled out, 6th pic. I said I couldn't see a way without cutting the rivits, that's not entirely true. There's a black painted piece of metal infront of all of this. Initially I thought it was spot welded to the frame but I don't think it actually is, there are square nuts on the back which could possibly be removed. However, I wasn't up for removing this as there is all sorts bolted to it. Anyone following this guide does so entirely at their own risk. I'm just trying to help others. This took me about an hour to get the siren out but should take less time not having to figure out how to do it. Once the batt. is replaced I'm going to seal the siren module with silicon bath sealant. It's probably not the correct thing to use but it's what I've got. Will replace the rivits with nuts and bolts. Even if I wanted to rivit it there's no access to get my pop rivit gun in. I hope this helps others with theirs.

I agree if you point it at the hose the reading will be less than the reading of the actual coolant inside. But how do you verify that the reading you are relying on for the temp inside is correct? Using the reading from the hose see what temp is reached for the radiator fan to kick in. If the thermostat is new and the hose gets to above 75 before the fan kicks in, if the heater blows at 82 and remains at 82 when the fan kicks in. The temperature gauge or temperature sensor are the ones that are wrong because you know the coolant is definitely higher than 70-75 which is the temperature you say the car hovers around? The heater cannot blow hotter than the coolant temp can it, it must be cooler

Hello @GraemeFish and welcome to Briskoda 👋

I’m just trading in my B8 Passat Estate for the Superb IV. The car had on 77653 miles when my battery dropped to 40%, I’m not a gambler so replaced it before the warm weather ended. I expect it’s a batch of batteries that’s causing the issue. Unless of course, your car was on of many stock on the continent awaiting export approval last spring (I thing there’s a thread on here somewhere mentioning it). A replacement should short it all out for a fair few years. John

Absolutely. That was the first thing the dealer asked and having seen numerous people mis fuel cars, I appreciate it’s easily done!

Why is an infra re meter pointed at the engine block not accurate? If you get a consistant 82 from the vents it's the dashboard gauge that is wrong so that points to the temp sensor

I have done 11k miles with my 2024 superb had no issues apart from ACC sensor fails in heavy rain when car just starts. Looked it up and it might be the front camera getting condensation. It is still under warranty so I wonder if I need to claim.

Fair enough, it was a good point Aldfort raised though, new cars with different fuel from old ones presents a risk. Easier to misfuel petrol into a diesel than t'other way round though, due to different nozzle diameter.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You probably wouldn't see any significant difference in running costs between either fuel with your projected use, I'm rather biased towards the 1.4TSI because that's what I've had since 2015. Anything from around 2019 - 2021 will probably have had the cambelt replaced already, following incorrect advice from Skoda UK - that service item is significantly more expensive with the 1.5TSI. I've always thought it a little odd that the 1.5TSI engine should have exactly the same power output as the 1.4.

Oh yeah, wonder if it was petrol though.

Yes, we moved house and her commute is now 3 miles instead of about 15 miles before, which wont do the diesel any good, as she doesn’t do many long journeys

Had this happen to me. Thankfully I was doing work on the drive. There’s a strainer on the pickup pipe, but you don’t want that getting clogged up with larger pieces as you’ll starve the engine of oil. Best interest is to order a new dipstick, and get it changed. Drop the sump and clean it all out. While you’re there, you may as well change the pickup pipe…

Maybe it depends on the market but they are standard on mine

Then either the glove box unit or harness.

Today, I have seen locally, new electric buses, police cars, both are 100% electric and also PHEV paramedic vehicles, the latter was plugged in to charge at a public charger half a mile away from me.

Are you sure sbout the ladt point? I believe that obd11 showed 12V battery beiing charged while AC HV battery chsrging.

Spendid, thanks

Hello, welcome to the forum. Sorry that your wife has run into a problem. Engine starting, then stopping almost immediately can indicate immobiliser operation - but AFAIK would not prevent the starter from cranking the engine. That symptom might indicate a bad connection on the starter circuit. Hope they sort it quickly for her.

Have you noted at what temperature the radiator fan starts and what method are you using to validate the temp. Does the heater blow Hot not just warm. If the heater blows hot and doesn't cool down as it blows it is most likely the sensor. You could also invest in one of these for your toolbox

@LinoTheFox TSB = Technical service bulletin TPI = Technical product information Both basically types of memos that go to dealers warning of recognised issues and methods to resolve. There will be a difference between the two but essentially that's what they do. In other words, Langers2k and Cairus are both confirming that VAG know all about your specific issue with your specific environment. And whilst there's no harm in trying to grease, it probably isn't the solution. 👍

So long time and a lot of progress here or there. Went up on the lift to do new ball joints, tie rods and a wheel bearing. Wheel bearing was a siege in 100 different ways. As were the ball joints (Kept getting sent wrong ones) Basically decided "I am not taking this apart again", so knowing the flywheel was grinding worse and worse i began stripping the parts car down. Don't love having it in bits as its yet another shell to go on a pallet. Before that i rolled it down to the wash, and gave it a good cleaning. Even though it is beyond rotten I felt a bit bad tearing into it, anyhow. Stripped suspension off of it and dropped engine as a unit, split all on the pallet and got the flywheel. It was grubby and oily but in better (not great) shape Both cars the clutches were "ok" both have oil leaking from the distributor down into the box, and what was causing the clutch in mine to occasionally slip. Decided to strip the parts cars suspension to clean up for mine, bushes being 30 years old and 90k mile on them, were well past it. Knew i needed anti roll bar bushes for mine, like everything else cant get new rubber ones. However, there is a man in a shed in the US called DRW bushings who does bushes for all the older subarus. So i ended up buying the full kit for mine. Not cheap but shipping and customs from the us isnt either, so i only wanted to do it once. Bushes came quickly for being made to order, and the other side of the pond. Fella was extremely pleasant and helpful to deal with. Bushes all fit perfectly, all numbered so almost impossible to mix up, plus theyre not as hard as powerflex or such. They feel a lot like a slightly firmer oe bush. Got mine in black to keep a nice standard look. Noticed sump was leaking this while so dropped it, cleaned strainer also. Again while im in there. Primed and painted sump, resealed all fine. New clutch kit, probably mentioned before i won a new old stock subaru disc and pressure plate a while back, nice to put it to use. Cleaned the flywheel up myself as couldnt get anyone easily to machine it. Got gearbox in on my own not easy but lifted it up and put it on myself. Made a clutch alignment tool with an extension and lots of tape. In the bushes kit there were small shifter bushes which have transformed the shifter, it was really nice before but now it is extremely nice to use, very tight and direct. Back on its wheels this evening, no exhaust past the cat and needs checking and torqueing all the bolts on the ground but i did get driving it a little. Clutch feels very good but does need adjusting. Suspension and steering feels superb, very fresh. Still have to do rear suspension. Gonna do the same and strip the parts cars to refresh. This way i have serviceable arms etc from mine as spares. So shouldnt have much to worry about from the front for a while. Rear isnt too bad but id like to have all the suspension stripped and painted anyhow. Ill clean up and schutz underneath it too. I do want to gut the cat from the parts car to use on mine, being pre 95 it doesnt need one to pass emissions once its running well. Have that nice backbox too but itd require basically having a catback pipe done up to make any use out of it. Exhaust restricts way down after the resonator for no real reason. Backbox i got is the same size as the pipe between the cat and resonator. Facelift ones like mine are catted, preface is not and that brings power down from about 55 to 50. It is nippy for what it is but a "cheap" 10% bump in power would be nice.

Came across this in Malton today - never seen one before.

Welcome to the forum buddy 👋

Lovely sunset this evening.

Had another look tonight and the bearings feel fine no play at all. The axle bushes look worn but have very little play. No noise from the brakes but the passenger side rear spring is cracked at the top so its not sat in the rubber mount at the top so I believe this is my issue. Changing the spring tomorrow evening and I will report back with good or bad news

A few from Clumber Park this morning - great to see so many Swans (Avian flu decimated the population a few years back)

Recently visited the Helios installation at Fountains Abbey. National TrustHelios at Fountains Abbey | YorkshireHelios at Fountains Abbey, North Yorkshire A spectacular sight once the sun had set ☀️ Some judicious use of Magic Eraser in the first image!

Can you code with it? No. Once this can be done by unlocking SFD2 then yes it’s progress, until then it’s a step backwards for anyone with a newish car.

You may want to do some research…. Volkswagen Group (VAG) vehicles New Volkswagen Group (VAG) models from 2024 have updated security features (UNECE R155 and R156) to protect the car’s software. This new layer of protection, sometimes called “SFD2,” safeguards the car’s control units from unauthorized access, particularly for updates performed over the air (OTA). Under these new security measures, OBDeleven can only fully communicate with the car's main diagnostic part – the gateway control unit. This means we can’t fully scan or interact with other control units as we do with other car models. https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/9187989-does-obdeleven-work-with-vag-and-bmw-vehicles-manufactured-from-2024

It's certainly not 'the future' as it can't do anything with SFD2