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Really sorry to hear this - the only thing I can think of is starting the car and then holding the Infotainment power button down and see if that forces a reboot but it’s a clutching at straws suggestion. I know where you are coming from and appreciate your frustration. When I first got my First Edition in 2023 (second hand) it had multiple issues around the software but thankfully using information found in this forum, a couple of visits to the dealership to get modules firmware updated, it’s now rock solid. The problem is they’ve put a lot of tech in the Mk4’s and no one at Skoda seems to understand how all the various modules and firmware versions of these individual modules interact with one another and can cause problems. The dealerships aren’t proactive as they are completely reliant on diagnostic information and directives from Skoda HQ - really is a case of “computer says no”. It’s a real shame as they are actually great vehicles which have been blighted by shoddy software and subsequent lack of support and knowledge to resolve ongoing software issues. If Skoda could just get on top of this and roll out a program of all relevant updates, installed at the dealerships, that could be applied to vehicles based on their specific hardware configurations that would be so much better. Unfortunately they seem to only do anything on a piece meal basis based on if you have a specific issue - even then they often seem clueless. The crux of the matter is you have car manufacturers trying to be software developers and they don’t seem to be very good at it and manufacturer vehicles the dealership network workshops don’t really understand.

Expected Real World Oil consumption is not 0.5 litres 1,000 km / 621 miles. VW Group have said for 2 decades 'May use as much as' according to conditions, and for every engine 3,4,5,6, 8, 12 cylinder petrol or diesel. This is not the 'within tolerances, it is just them covering there back end. Running solo, not in extreme weathers and not towing. 0.5 litres in 1,000 km is too much oil used.

1400NM is about right for some of the gorilla tightened wheel bolts I've come across. 😄 I bought the longest breaker bar I could find on ebay, as I'm of rather slim build and need all the leverage I can get. I think that the one I got was 1 meter / 39 inches long with a 3/4" drive. I use it with a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter to fit my flank drive sockets. Sometimes brains - in getting the right tools - beats brawn...

Hello, welcome to the forum. Possibly a silly question - but have you removed the plastic cover trims from the wheel bolts? A ratchet wrench is definitely not the correct tool to break out wheel bolts! Unless the original bolts have been changed, one bolt per wheel is a security fitting requiring an adaptor to remove. Another possibility is that a tyre gorilla has used hammer gun set to max - a long breaker-bar is useful to break initial hold.

PS What does the dealer say about it? Have you compared it with another vehicle at the dealership with the same screen to see if you have one with a fault?

I'm not sure I'd trust them much if it's common for them to hand over vehicles without oil even being checked - what else is being skipped? Is there any visible sign of this oil being burnt?

More down to market manipulation I think. If you can convince the market they only want one type of car (SUV) then you only have one set of R&D costs. It's been that way for years with platform sharing etc but these days they take it to an extreme. You can have any type car you like but as long as it's an SUV two box design

Manufacture Date: September 2020 Infotainment Hardware: H56 Display Unit/Control Panel Hardware: H44 Display Unit/Control Panel Software: 2088 From version 1989, no factory reset. No problems.

-> next 2026-2027 cross compatible on: Skoda Columbus (Mib2H), Seat Navi Plus (Mib2H), VW Discover Pro (Mib2H), Audi MMI Navigation Plus (Mib2H) Porsche PCM4.0 (Mib2H) # ECE 14.6 GB Version: V03.959.823.HL 430 ECE 2026 DevVersion: P430_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT_Q1.25 VW portal: - Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/HIGH2_P430_EU_202545.zip Files inside: 2025.03.31 Downloadable: 2025.11.05 Published: 2025.11.-- # Rest of World 16 GB Version: V03.959.822.HM 433 ROW 2026 DevVersion: P433_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT_Q1.25 VW portal: - Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/HIGH2_P433_ROW_202545.zip Files inside: 2024.05.16 Downloadable: 2025.11.05 Published: 2025.11.-- ======= coverage ======= # EU Albania*, Andorra, Austria, Belarus*, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina*, Bulgaria*, Croatia, Cyprus*, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia*, Finland, France, Germany, Gibraltar, Great Britain, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo*, Latvia*, Liechtenstein, Lithuania*, Luxembourg, Malta, Moldova*, Monaco, Montenegro*, Netherlands, Northern Macedonia*, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania*, Russia*, San Marino, Serbia*, Slovakia, Slovenia*, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey*, Ukraine*, Vatican City * partially # ROW Argentina*, Australia, Bahrain, Botswana*, Brazil*, Brunei*, Chile*, Indonesia*, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lesotho*, Malaysia, Mexico*, Mozambique*, Namibia*, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines*, Qatar, Reunion*, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Swaziland*, Thailand*, Turkey*, United Arab Emirates * partially ======= instruction ======= 1. download 7z/zip archive from direct link 2. extract content to SD Card or USB 3. insert memory device into slot of Columbus 4. start of update usually is offered automatically, manually can be found under Navi-> Settings !!! note for MAC users -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/452002-direct-download-links-for-ece-20182019-maps/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5095042 couple of potential questions are answered in previous posts: Columbus Maps 2025/2026 Columbus Maps 2025 Columbus Maps 2024/2025 Columbus Maps 2024 Columbus Maps 2023/2024 Columbus Maps 2023 Columbus Maps 2022/2023 Columbus Maps 2022 Columbus Maps 2021/2022 Columbus Maps 2021 Columbus Maps 2020/2021 Columbus Maps 2020 monthly POI's collection files downloading from X-o-m-k-a's blog

I just did this replacement yesterday, but since I had fit the other set myself everything came easy. I always use a long piece of pipe as a breaker bar to loosen anyway, so I save the effort of the power tool (accu parkside from lidl is actually good). Before refitting, a dab of copper grease on the nut threads and on the flange surface of the rim to hub is ideal to prevent corrosion and to make the job easier next time! When refitting, I go first by hand a couple turns, then power tool or by ratchet as it comes. If you have access to a torque wrench, try to tighten "by hand" and then measure how you did, this will give you an idea for that day you will be replacing a flat tire .... This time I decided to use only the car tools, to know what to expect in case of a flat tire, as I've never use the jack before ... good to try 🙃

@Warrior193 : if I take into account that my original Banner has lasted me since 2017 and I guess is still going quite ok, I tend to say EFB is pretty solid. My main concern is that, with the upcoming winter and as I don’t usually use the car, I’d get into trouble when wanting to drive one morning… this is why I would consider replacing the battery now, when I’m not under pressure. And to maybe avoid having low voltage errors. And, what are the minimum values for battery health, SOH, voltage etc. when one should consider replacing an old battery. For example, it the shop says battery is stil around (let’s say) 65%, should I change it?

I've just had this issue on my 2023 Octavia VRS iV following a system update. Marshalls said to call out roadside rescue! AA/VW Engineer was all but useless (didn't even know the battery was in the boot!) He disconnected the battery for 10 mins ...and shut the boot - DOH!!!! Luckily the car was opened and he managed to crawl through into the boot to reconnect it - wally! When reconnected the system was fine!? After he left I noticed the user was Guest, not the primary user. Switched to the Primary user and all the problems came back! So, did a factory reset and re-created my Primary profile, now it's all working OK - only tested for an hour or so, but as it was rebooting every minute before, fingers crossed that was MY issue. Hope this helps others.

If the beam in question is the Torsion Beam, it twists to allow suspension movement - jacking in the wrong place risks damaging or bending it, adversely affecting the suspension.

I´d say 3-4mm

Another very useful item for the tool box is a pair of the threaded rods to initially position the wheel while refitting the bolts.

Important, bolt torque is 120 Nm - NOT 1400!

On my sons fabia mk1 there was a lable on the rear beam saying something like no jack points? I kept the axle stands as near the wheels as possible and was ok. Alasdair

Check the wattage of the bulbs fitted. My old van fried the connectors due to the previous owner fitting 100/80watt instead of 60/55watt. I did think the headlights were particularly good for a Fiat ducato. A bad earth can also cause things to heat up. Alasdair

I have a battery monitor on the car and occasionally during the night ( last night at 4:45 am) it seems to wake up for a few minutes . I gather it’s the Skoda servers looking for info off the car periodically. Does anyone know what?

I use the BM2 battery bluetooth monitor. Great cheap little device. It measures cranking voltage too. This is the one i use: https://www.amazon.ie/DollaTek-Battery-bluetooth-Diagnostic-Compatible/dp/B09MJ4PL72/ref=asc_df_B09MJ4PL72?mcid=b8148804e6e63623ae6216accc212292&tag=ieshopgosmp-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=743331780646&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15410731860353893227&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9040158&hvtargid=pla-1641489871169&psc=1&language=en_IE&gad_source=1

Hello, not sure if it's a good assumption that your Banner-branded battery is original - I'd agree it to be more likely if it had been a Moll EFB. There will possibly be a date code stamped on the top of the negative terminal, which can confirm age. AGM performance is superior to EFB and is possibly worth the extra cost - but it is even more important that new type is adapted (coded) into the vehicles BCM if changing type (any replacement battery should be adapted anyway)

So, I drove the car for about an hour today in which time the system turned off and on about 10 times. Got home and thought I’d do the factory reset but now the screen just won’t turn on at all and I’ve got lots of error messages on the main dashboard. No radio, no option to turn off the heating or the heated seats which seem to be stuck on. Happy days! Just spoke to Skoda, funnily enough the guy on the phone didn’t even know there had been an update and had to read about it to know what I was going on about. Earliest they can get me in is the 24th November. Honestly, I know not everyone has had a bad experience with their cars but it seems like there are a hell of a lot of us on this forum who have. It’s absolutely doing my head in how AWFUL Skodas are. I will never ever have another one, had so many issues with this goddam car, it’s by far the worst car I’ve ever had and I will be actively advising people not to touch this brand.

Might do, it depends on how thorough and correct the diagnostics were to get to this conclusion, rather than change an expensive part and see if that sorts it. The connections, communication and wiring need to have been checked and confirmed both ends not to have fault(s) instead (or perhaps as well as) the j519 . You'd need a wiring diagram for your car to confirm what's where and what does what and what's in-between them. Then would you replace it with new, used or repaired or get it repaired (or checked). You also need to check if there's a reason for it being faulty other than it being a faulty VW part. If you have someone knowledgeable and trustworthy doing the diagnostics and work then they will be able to inform and advise you. Good luck.

Possibly when the car itself is checking for updates for the Infotainment or installed apps as well as connecting to Skoda's servers and reporting in etc.....

My sisters Land Rover was 'dip-stick less', and the engine seized....... but that could be a number of reasons and probably off this topic..... but yes terrible idea! My Kodiaq has a dip-stick and a warning on the Infotainment system that comes up.... although my good lady would argue some days the car has 2 dip-sticks in it when I'm driving......

I will make sure I get a full analysis report when the Kodiaq goes in over the coming week(s) when the vehicle is booked in. If 'my situation' is unique or out of normal operating circumstances, it will be interesting if the route taken is an engine replacement....... obviously suggesting the calculations around oil weight and usage are calculated correctly.

Looking forward to getting a wee shoty in a Peugeot e-208 GTI. The Abarth e-600 Scorpionissma was a hoot. One issue was tyres really just for dry roads fitted.

Waiting for an oil light and being as low as 1 litre really is an issue. An issue with new cars / demonstrators and these then are used cars. How is the correct Oil Level being acheived, is it the engine AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE, and checked after a few minutes, parked on the flat. Or is it the Stone Cold oil dipped? Running low oil levels like 1 litre low is working that oil hard,. & maybe using more oil.

I also removed the steering wheel, but it is not necessary to act in the direction of the arrow.

At 2 miles run, that would sound like an interrupted DPF regen.

Just had an email to say that erWin will no longer allow private customers to access the system. It's a shame that they the closing this optioun off for self diagnosis. Dear erWin User, We would like to inform you that, as of 18-12-2025, the erWin Webshop will no longer be available to private customers but exclusively to business customers. Of course, you may continue to use your active flatrate subscriptions until the end of their contractually agreed term – even beyond the above-mentioned discontinuation date. Should you have any questions, please contact our support team at https://skoda.erwin-store.com/erwin/showRequestSupport.do . Thank you for your understanding. Kind regards, Your erWin Team ŠKODA AUTO a.s. Trida Vaclava Klementa 869, 29360 Mlada Boleslav, Czech Republic

Yes mine has the adaptive cruise with speed limiter, whilst its in it automation mode it does allow the engine to switch off when no throttle input is required (i.e. driving downhill). The car is still quite new to me so will try the differences in lifting foot off the accelerator with different urgency to see how it reacts.

On mine one click on the downshift paddle puts it back into gear.

2 Degrees this morning, drove 2 miles turned off engine and fan was going. I've heard it before but don't really know the regularity. I will say its definitely not every journey for me to notice. Mileage was just over 12k when collected from main dealer.

Long absent from these pages, finally I had time yesterday to fit the winter wheels/tires, as these protrude OK on the sides I decided not to put the spacers - will see next spring! Before fitting, I have coated the rims with this Carbon Ceramic product, nothing to "shine" like to make photos, but time will tell how they resist road grime! Checked the front brakes and soon will be time for them as I did the rears, pads have OE/VW markings on them, so if swapped, at least +20k km .... as I have lost the way from my mentor 😁 will continue with the ATE Ceramic as I like how they go! I forgot to do this before - at least at each season change, ideally - so I checked the space saver tire and it was less than half of the recommended tire pressure... easy to forget, bad thing. I also noticed the "normal sized" tires do not fit the wheel well because of the plastic lip, which I will trim but will have to wait when I start to insulate the boot, soon I hope. Tonight I got DSG fluid replacement, its first! Will see how it goes! Edit: next should be Haldex and diff ....

I guess so. I'm not very familiar with it. If you download the 2004 circuits from the link I gave above, and search the pdf for "bulb failure" you should find the relevant pages. I vaguely remember taking one of those 'relays' apart many years ago, and finding that it was just a set of current shunts monitoring the feed current to each of the bulbs.

This is the email I just got: Dear erWin User, We would like to inform you that, as of 18-12-2025, the erWin Webshop will no longer be available to private customers but exclusively to business customers. Of course, you may continue to use your active flatrate subscriptions until the end of their contractually agreed term – even beyond the above-mentioned discontinuation date. Should you have any questions, please contact our support team at https://volkswagen.erwin-store.com/erwin/showRequestSupport.do . Thank you for your understanding. Kind regards, Your erWin Team Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft

Updated to 1989 software on Saturday, infotainment system has shut down about 10 times since. These cars are absolutely crap, i cant wait to get rid of mine next year.

This is also my understanding of the BMS and EFB AGM battery technology as an operating strategy. Worst thing that can happen to a sealed efb or agm is over charging. Stop/start circuitry monitors for 80% if the car is below it disables. BMS aims to maintain above 80% but will not go to 100% because that would leave no headroom for engine braking regeneration.

10/2021 HW H56 ABT HW H47 ABT SW 2092 From version 1985, no problems, OTA to 1989, no factory reset. No problems.

I was under the impression that: You needed to the V5 or the VIN number written down You needed an active version account You needed to be in the car with your phone The car needed to be switched on with a good connection And you need all the keys in your hand. That’s what the app says anyway 👍

How is it even possible that there is such a huge chance of something stopping working with every single update?

I don't think this has been posted before, but if it has, I apologise for the duplication.

Just washed it. What helps is the Raceglaze water filter which means zero water marks, although I do towel most of it off. It really needs a whole day spent on it but I just don’t have the time at the moment.

The Superb had an oil & inspection service plus pollen filter this morning at the local Skoda dealer, just on 109,000 miles now and running as good as new.

It's no secret that when (p)ACC is active, the rear axle brakes more frequently for comfort reasons.

Always seems to be the backs that go first; def read it on several threads over the years and mine were first to be advised on. Ironic but it is what it is.

My eight-year-old passed its M.O.T. with no advisories. This comes on the heels of a 2,646 mile tour of Portugal, Spain and France over 30 days. I had to have the water pump replaced before I went, but the car never missed a beat. Well, aside from losing some window trim on the autoroute at 85 mph. We spent nights in León, Santiago de Compostela, Vigo, Porto, Salamanca, Logroño, Bielsa, Sète, Grenoble, Colmar and Laon. I'm knackered! We had two days of rain (Santiago and Colmar) wore t-shirts and sandals in the beginning, winter coats by the end. I lost and had to replace my plug adapter, my laptop charger and my cap. I lost my phone on the second day of our trip, but ran back to the restaurant and the waiter was holding it. I lost my phone on the 26th day of our trip, but ran back and the barman was holding it. Sheesh! Santiago was a major disappointment. We were looking forward to our return after 19 years, but the town is a certifiable victim of over-tourism. Sète and Porto were the most fun.

I usually average around 3k a month, on an exceptionally busy month I might do 4.5k (but that's unusual), average speed around 42mph and average 60mpg, lots of longer drives usually on motorways sitting in 7th gear at 70mph and 1600rpm so nothing really wears out, front brakes still on original discs & pads with a good amount of life left in them, rears were changed not so long ago. Had it from new, 7 miles on the clock the day I picked it up, still really enjoy getting in it and driving it.