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Michelin CrossClimate 3,s proving to be good on Snow & Icy Snow, cold and wet roads. The car is OK as well, getting 2.4-3.1 miles a kWh at below freezing temps and heating on.

I haven't heard of CarPlay so will need to research it.

hello everyone, my name's costin, owner of a mk3 octavia tdi

Yes it does, on both the original battery and the new one.

That's about the norm for a VAG 2.0TDi I've had several although the current EA288 is a lot quicker getting warm air into the cabin than the earlier EA189 which weren't great in freezing temps. Now I run a 2.0TSi and the difference is very obvious

My 71 plate Octavia estate SEL iV is going back at the end of January and I have to say I’ll miss its easy driving and large boot. And power too! I really wanted another Skoda but anything with an ICE is gonna be too expensive due to BIK tax and when I test drove the Elroq I was very underwhelmed. It want as smooth a drive on the suspension, the boot not that big and the interior is the same as my Octavia and it’s a much newer car model, I would expect them to update it as it lags behind other cars it competes with. So if anyone sees AJ71 LVP for sale, it has the optional black alloy wheels and LED pack and I’ve looked after it as well as I could, all serviced properly at Skoda!! Also if anyone wants a fancy Yakima roof bar system for their Octavia I will be selling mine soon, as well as a brand new set of mats I never used I think. Thanks to all on here for the last 4 years! On to another brand now.

Things have moved on a lot in the world and most cars now are way more economical because they cut cylinders when coasting, the gearbox and ECU all work together to make the best of everything. If you manage to disable the function then all you would do is put unnecessary extra strain on the gearbox, increasing the chance of it failing. Modern brakes don’t overheat like older cars did, my car has done multiple very long alpine passes with no fade. Replacing brake pads and discs slightly more often is a damn sight cheaper than relaxing a DSG gearbox. If you want an old school gearbox then buy an old school car!!

PS Just seen above it’s to protect the battery from the engine heat, that makes more sense. Must read all the thread before scratching noggin.🥵

OK, been scratching my head over this. Surely when a good battery is needed, like in the morning, the battery will be at ambient temp, just like the rest of the car. Good old Newton’s 2nd law of thermodynamics in action. Not sure a pretty insignificant piece of insulation is going to bring anything to the party that is cranking a cold engine when it’s a might parky out there. 🤔 My line of thinking may be wrong, that has happened. It was a Tuesday ISTR and raining. 🤣

you can disconnect the siren, or better uncoding the alarm via vcds (also the low loudness is due probably to an old siren battery), however the first thing I would suggest to try is to switch off the volumetric system using the switch on thr b pillar, and see if it keep doing it.

What is the battery voltage when the steering feels tighter?

Folks old mk1 fabia 1.9tdi had problems with alarm going off due to failing siren battery. Local garage disabled alarm as the car was old an doubt anyone would bother stealing it. Not sure how they did it. Try hoovering the internal sensor. I think its near the interior light. If they get too dusty they can trigger the alarm randomly. You could try and remove fuse/fuses to see if it makes a difference although not sure if the alarm also supplies cluster?

i am on 1yo Bridgestone Turanza All Season 6, 215/55-17, i have that wheel size but i am planning 16, like Yeti had, 215/60-16..

Hey no worries - I think this forum is generally quiet these days so getting answers takes a bit of time! Good luck with the install, I'm sure you'll be pleased with the outcome

Maybe engine coolant temp sensor or you have a vacuum leak thats sealing itself when warm. Have you had it read for any codes? Alasdair

There are a few routes you could take, and the main decision points are budget and retention of the stock head unit. As a starting point, the basics you can do either way are to replace the door speakers and add sound deadening (foil-backed butyl and closed-cell foam in the doors). To get the best out of your new speakers, you'll want an amp. If you're keeping the stock HU, you'll also need a line level converter or an amp that'll take line-level input. The converter is probably the easiest, and you can get something simple like this VIbe thing for £20 or something a lot more advanced like this LC1i for nearly £100. Both take input from the stock speaker wires, so there's a bit of tinkering to do with the wiring loom to tap into them. Once installed, you have RCA connections for an amp. If you're replacing the HU, you don't need the line level converter as the new HU will have RCA jacks on the back - just don't get a cheap aliexpress thing, go for JVC, Alpine, Sony etc. The pitfalls of doing this are that you lose the car config menus in the standard HU - I was ok with that as I only have a basic spec 'SE' and everything I could do on the HU can be done with a physical button in the car, so I lost nothing really. At this point, amp choice is largely down to budget and need. There is no denying that an amp with a DSP will allow you to get a better sound out of your gear, but you have to know how to use it. It's not a plug and play kind of thing unless you spend big bucks on something like a Helix with auto-tuning functions; you need to measure the sound with a calibrated mic and then learn how to use REW, which isn't too hard but it does take time to get to grips with. I have a Vibe Powerbox 65.4-8DSP, which is the real budget end of these things, but does work well. I had the non-DSP version before this, it's about half the price and a decent little unit. Sub/Amp again comes down to budget, and also the music you listen to in some respects. If you don't listen to music with a lot of sub-bass, you probably don't need a sub. Generally, you'll be able to daisy-chain the amps together, with your 4 channel having an RCA output to send signal to a mono amp for the sub. Pick your sub based on budget, find it's RMS power and Ohm value then find a mono amp that delivers slightly more RMS than you need at the same Ohms as your sub. That means you'll have clean signal headroom, and shouldn't need to stress the amp to drive your sub. For both amps, you'll need a wiring kit and some distribution blocks to split power between them. It's all DIY-able if you take your time and do your research. YouTube is your friend! For shops in the NE, you have AutoSounds and Sounds Alarming, but the cost of a good install might surprise you, it takes a long time to do it right and their hourly rates aren't cheap. You say you've spent money with local shops already - what have you bought?

Having read the responses, at least I now know its not just me. But I must say that I have been realy pleased with my previous Skoda purchases. This time however, I am left wondering if I have made a big and expensive mistake. Please do keep us posted. Wouldn't it be great if they did a recall to fix this, clearly common, problem.

Do you have any individual energy monitoring devices? Or the charge point app? Or car charging history? I've noticed IOG been tweaking their backend slot allocation algorithms. I'm getting a LOT more frequent slot re-allocations. But not had problems though charging on IOG, only problem was my home battery automations not reacting fast enough to their frequent slot updates. I think possible reasons for partial charge: Charge point auto de-rating due to house load, check via energy monitor mentioned above, see if car was not drawing full 7 kW and if total house load is near 80% of your main fuse rating. Intelligent Octopus Go mess up, check by looking at IOG schedule, was enough slots allocated? Was there internet problem at any point throughout the night? Perhaps IOG slots was updated and your charge point didn't get the memo? I've never had problem charging in the cold, I've not seen the EV itself slowing down AC charging due to UK cold weather either. This cold is nothing compared to what they get in Norway or Canada, yet they charge and drive EV's no problem. Hence I'm thinking it's something outside the EV itself.

I always go for a decent mid range tyre. As said been using GT radial FE2 and all season on my cars with no probems plus good grip in wet. I have a fair few old cars sitting around for spares/(maybe repair). If I let the tyres go flat then they seem to crack very quickly when sitting. Never had this problem years ago. Have an old landrover with Avons on it and its sat for nearly 20 years and tyres are still fine so I assume modern tyres are more likely to perish in sunlight/weather. Probably more plastic/nylon than rubber these days Alasdair

Nah, if this starts to bother me too much, then I might bring this up when taking the car to its first oil service to the dealer. It is not that big of deal, I just got used to it that there is no need to adjust steering wheel at all when driving straight :D I guess the front end with this new car is lighter than what it was with the previous one and this makes it feel more "flimsy". Although I had installed this Powerflex polyurethane pendulum bushing to my old car, which minimizes the engine/transmission back and forth movement, this also might had affected the handling in a positive way.

I see. That's rather odd. Sounds like a likely case of a slow charging rate. What fuse is your house on? Octopus normally fit a device to prevent your charger exceeding the fuse rating. Is there any chance your ASHP + anything else that you were using might have taken you close to that?

One thing that sometimes needs doing in the cold, which i had to do 3 nights ago was go make sure the charger head is properly in tight. Plugged in when warmer or dry or wettish, then when the temp drops it is just not quite fully in enough. There will be those charging last night at minus 10 in Scotland and much colder than that around the world. Heading off to Tomintoul later if the road from the south is open. Will not need to charge there which is hit or miss at the best of times, but might need to charge someplace if i take an alternate route home. Head to Aviemore or towards Aberdeen. Tesla Superchargers.

It's so sensitive that even a single dandelion caused mine to stop suddenly again when trying to park up the side of the house. Weird as I was going so slow that the dandelion would've survived unscathed! I should get a court date soon so that I can get this dangerous potential death-trap rejected once and for all. Skoda have offered me a measly £32k for a fully-loaded, 4 month old 2.0 TSI Sportline with just 1,250 miles if they bought it back (RRP £53k, I paid £45k). An officer from the UK DVSA will also be attending court with me as they believe that I should push for a 100% refund plus some compensation, but I'd be happy with a £5k loss just to get rid of this junk. When this nightmare is over, I will publish the result along with evidence (that I can't share now) here and on every Skoda forum. All Skoda had to do was add the option to turn this crap off permanently, but no, thanks to pathetic EU rules. To avoid a minor collision, a driver simply needs a brake pedal, steering wheel and eyeballs. Anything else, and they shouldn't be allowed on the road. I've never hated a car or brand so much!

So that’s eliminated Waze/Spotify settings so must be an AA or car thing. Suggestions from @CS363 will hopefully help (I’m out of ideas now and can’t test anything ‘cos I use an iPhone). Good luck…

This bit I find critical going forward, from auto translator: " ‘Transport EVs must be safer, existing ships not suitable’After their findings with the fire on the Fremantle Highway, the Panamanian investigators recommend measures that should make transport of EVs on all ships – including ferries and passenger ships – safer. Because it has become clear to the researchers that ships that only have a fire extinguishing system for transporting cars with an internal combustion engine, now also transport electric vehicles ‘without any upgrade of their loading floors and firefighting’. ‘Panama’ calls the risk of fire in electric car ‘minimum, but the consequences ‘catastrophic’. For example, tailgates on existing ships have not been built for transporting electric cars. This can damage the batteries that are in the soil of EVs, which can cause a fire. " I wonder how Norway ferry are dealing with this change of risk, they even many electric ferries.

I use both Waze and Spotify every day in my '21 vRS with no such issues (Samsung S22). I guess the first question is are all the apps, and operating system on phone up to date? The other possible fix is to unpair the phone and then re-pair, sometimes it's just something simple. One other thing is, I assume this is connected via Bluetooth? Maybe try turning off BT and connecting via a USB cable and see if you have the same problem, the more things you can rule out the better IME. FWIW my phone is on Android version 16, Waze and Spotify are latest versions and BT version 5.2

It seems the official report into the cause of the fire onboard the Fremantle Highway has been kept secret until Dagblad van het Noorden invoked an international treaty that requires it to be made public. Just as expected, it was indeed a battery electric BMW car that started the fire and because there is no way of currently putting such a fire out, even though the ship was flooded with masses of CO2, which with an ICE car, would have extinguished the fire, fire as we know demands oxygen to burn, and with CO2 being heavier than air would have prevented oxygen reaching the fire. Li-ion batteries generate masses of oxygen, so any defeated the CO2 fire suppression system. Now I wonder just why was the report kept secret?? Add to this, just how many other reports of similar events have been kept secret?? 'Secret' investigation with major consequences: fire in electric BMW cause of Fremantle Highway disaster - Dagblad van het Noorden

Passat B8 Coding Ambiente light Retrofit: Ambient lighting (multicolor) - Activation Control unit 09 > Access authorization: 31347 > Individualization > … > Channel “Interior lighting 2nd generation - smooth color change” > Adjust value to “active” (if desired) > Channel “Interior lighting 2nd generation center console lighting multicolor” > Adjust value to “active” (if installed) > Channel “Interior lighting 2nd generation instrument panel lighting multicolor” > Adjust value to “active” (if AID is installed) > Channel “Interior lighting 2nd generation speaker lighting multicolor” > Adjust value to “active” (if installed) > Channel “Interior lighting lamp configuration - ambient_application bar in instrument panel” > Adjust value to “installed” > Channel “Interior lighting lamp configuration - center console lighting” > Adjust value to “installed” (if installed) > Channel “Interior lighting lamp configuration - free_color_selection_via_HMI” > Adjust value to “not active” > “Interior lighting "Configuration-Ambient_ColorList_HMI" Channel > Value to be adjusted: "active" > Channel "Interior Light Configuration-Ambient Menu with all zones" > Adjust value to "active" > Channel "Interior Light Configuration-Ambient Menu with global off" > Adjust value to "active". After completing the coding, the infotainment system must be restarted via reset (press and hold the power button for 10 seconds). Ambient Lighting (Multicolor) - Adjusting Colors The colors are specified in RGB encoding. If a color is set to {R:0, G:0, B:0}, the color will not be displayed. The first three channel blocks are for the infotainment system and the AID (Active Info Display), the second three blocks for the LED ambient strips, which are controlled via the LIN bus. After completing the coding, the infotainment system must be restarted via reset (press and hold the power button for 10 seconds). Note: The colors are generally displayed 1:1 in the infotainment system and AID. Slight adjustments to the LIN colors may be necessary, as the colors can vary due to the different brightness of the LEDs. Control Unit 09 > Access Authorization: 31347 > Adjustment > … > Channels “Ambient Light Color List – Red Value Color?” > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels “Ambient Light Color List – Green Value Color?” > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels “Ambient Light Color List – Blue Value Color?” > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels “Interior Light 2nd Generation – Red Value Color?” > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels “Interior Light 2nd Generation – Green Value Color?” > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels “Interior Light 2nd Generation – Blue Value Color?” > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 or (for newer control units) > Channels "Ambient Light Color List - Red Value" > Set values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambient Light Color List - Green Value" > Set values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambient Light Color List - Blue Value" Color ?" > Set values in the range of 0-255 Channels "Ambient Light Color List LIN-Red Value_Color_?_lin" > Set values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambient Light Color List LIN-Green Value_Color_?_lin" > Set values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambient Light Color List LIN-Blue Value_Color_?_lin" > Set values in the range of 0-255 Ambient lighting (multicolor) - colors expanded to 30 options For "Facelift BCMs" (from index BA onwards), there are 20 additional options. Color sets belonging to the Ambience_lightning_color_list_2 & Ambience_lightning_color_list_lin_2 groups. The procedure is analogous to setting the colors in the previous chapter. STG 09 > Access permission: 31347 > Customization > … > Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_2 - red value color ?" > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_2 - green value color ?" > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_2 - blue value color ?" > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_lin_2 - red value_color_?_lin > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels " Ambience_lightning_color_list_lin_2-Greenvalue_color_?_lin > Values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambient_lighting_color_list_lin_2-Blue_value_color_?_lin > Set value in the range of 0-255 Ambient Lighting (Multicolor) - Colors Expanded to 30 Options For "Facelift BCMs" (from index BA onwards), there are 20 additional color sets available, which belong to the Ambience_lightning_color_list_2 and Ambience_lightning_color_list_lin_2 groups. The procedure is analogous to setting the colors in the previous chapter. Control Unit 09 > Access Authorization: 31347 > Adaptation > … > Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_2 - red value color?" > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_2 - green value color?" > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_2 - blue value color?" > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_lin_2-Redvalue_Color_?_lin" > Adjust values in the range of 0-255 Channels "Ambience_lightning_color_list_lin_2-Greenvalue_color_?_lin" > Values in the range of 0-255 > Channels "Ambience_lighting_color_list_lin_2-blue_value_color_?_lin" > Set value in the range of 0-255 Ambient lighting (multicolor) - Change color assignment to driving profile Activate Control Unit 19 > Coding > Byte 11 > Bit 7 ("FPA_Function_AMB") Control Unit 09 > Access authorization: 31347 > Adaptation > … > Channel "Interior lighting 2nd generation Ambient color selection_FPA_selectable_coupling" > Set value to "active" Channel "Interior lighting 2nd generation Ambient color selection_FPA_selectable_pairing_status_HMI_Default" > Set value to "paired" > Channel "Ambient light color assignment to driving profile-Driving profile_?" > Adjust value as desired The assignment may vary depending on the gateway. This may need to be tested. The color values are retrieved from the channel lists "Ambient light color list" and "Ambient light color list LIN". The function must then be activated in the CAR menu under Ambient Lighting.

No problem (as we say here). I missed you had a 2002 Octavia, looks good too, and I am not VWŠkoda fan. 2002 will be from the time when VW cars were better designed and built to later years, look after it as later cars also have more things on them to even further remove a driver from driving and, as often, found to go wrong. Good luck. Škoda Octavia section of Briskoda. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

Hi, I am 70 and I just bought a 2007 fabia 2 for my daughter so she can drive to her aviation technical school in the winter. The car is in surprisingly good condition. A bit of rust at the bottom of the hatch back door. A tiny rusty paint chip on the bonnet. Its not obviously been resprayed but there is some kind of paint separation where the roof meets the side of the car on both sides. All new brake parts disks cables and hoses and stuff 2 years ago. I changed to winter tyres yesterday and noticed there is crumbling and flaking rust on what seems to be the power steering return line which for some reason sticks into the wheel area in one place. Hopefully I dont have to do much to the car! I have been repairing my own cars for years but I dont really know what I am doing without manuals or a source of knowledge from people who know what they are doing! :-) See you all on the forum! Andrew

We’ve had this very issue on our Kodiaq with 50k miles on the clock. After an hour of driving, it put the gearbox in emergency box, and started skipping even gears. Turning ignition off and on would temporarily reset the problem. After multiple authorised Skoda Marshall delaerships let us down (their first appointment was in 2 months 🙄), 3D Transmissions in Tilehurst have done a fastastic job at replacing mechatronics unit of our Skoda DSG gearbox. £2900 later we are all sorted.

Changing the coding and uploading a new dataset are quite different. If the camera will only accept Audi coding then I strongly suspect you need a new Skoda dataset.

Think the water pump is driven via timing belt on that one. If your waterpump isnt working but car still runs I would suspect its failed. If its not leaking then the fins may have gone and its not pumping. Had an aux belt snap on me before and wrapped itself around the alternator wrecking a few bits and pieces while it was at it. Nightmare to get it off as it got wedged behind pulleys. Alasdair

Same as me ;-)

So, slowly over the past year ive slowly done upgrades to car audio. So far sound deadened and insulated all 4 doors, spare wheel well, rear wheel arches snd trunk floor. Also sound deadened without insulating under the carpet. New headunit. New door speakers (still oem trebble) amp and a brand new android headunit. Most recent addition is a 250wrms 1000w max SQL subwoofer. Still work i need to with it and the amp. But cranking the volume up is now truly terrifying. And apparently it repairs the car. The lights in the drivers door buttons have not worked since march. Now suddenly i saw them flicker with the bass. Then they stopped flickering and was glowing normally. Ive tried looking at faults in the wiring harness in the oast but never found anything. . So i repaired my car with bass. I reccomend this method, its fun xD

I only have the map file before the above changes. adpmap-09-5Q0-937-084-DD.CSV