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Well, I solved it. Turns out that the leads are ok, they're rated for up to 3000cc. But on the Alhambra engine bay, I'd made a mistake about where to connect the black cable to earth it. The actual earthing strip is just a thin bit of bare metal with a painted nut or something either side of it. Looks like the first time I'd connectedd to the painted bit not the unpainted bit, which is very thin and can only be clipped to one way!

Hello everyone, My first time posting but I just wanted to give some information regarding the Front Assist error I've had on my 2018 Superb Estate SEL Exec. I finally got round to dealing with it after about a year. The diagnosis, at my local dealership, cost £180 inc. VAT. This included the computer diagnostic test, removal of the bumper, and repositioning the radar and some wiring. What the muppets didn't bother telling me, at any point, was that they (despite being a main dealership) do not actually have the equipment to fix the problem - i.e. calibration. I therefore had to take it to another specialist, thankfully quite local to me, who then calibrated for £360 inc. VAT. Thus you should expect to pay approximately £550 or thereabouts to fix a front assist radar calibration issue. Be aware also that even an innocuous bump can cause the issue to recur. This particular issue aside, I have enjoyed owning this car and do rather like it. I bid you all good day.

True, I don't think most car makers understand how to embed software into a device, in this case a car. Apple is a classic example their software just works in what ever Apple device you have. On all the forums you see comments about the built in functionality that its just not as good as the standalone devices or Phone Apps. I can't help wonder what will be the situation in 10 years time when the embedded software is no longer compatible with a piece of external infrastructure and so no longer works, and the car maker has no interest in producing a software update. The phasing out of the 2g and 3g phone networks, the sunsetting of Windows 10, Windows NT and 2000, for example. I would also add Y2k, which was over 25 years ago, is another example and there are whole generations who probably have no idea what that was!

Simples really. You do not use the left foot on the brake unless maybe like me and you have no right foot. 1 foot, 2 pedals. So foot from brake to accelerator, takes no time. While foot on brake the drive is disengaged. The car holds a couple of seconds, brake to accelerator, and then you still have a Parking / Hand brake. If you have Hillhold assist then read up on that, or watch a youtube video. Does your car have 'Coasting' mode which can be enabled? There are 2 oils to change if you really want that done. Best leave well alone if all is good with the DQ200 DSG.

In that case I'd definitely recommend GL Autos in Cwmbran. Proper family garage, good workmanship and decent prices.

Yeah, the AAWireless 2 has been in our Leon for a couple of weeks now and has been faultless. Whilst the Ottocast is tiny and appealing with no wires, you have to wonder what it's missing being about a tenth the size of the AAWireless unit.

Take a look at this:

I guess the features of the car are selected by the importer so it depends which country you are buying the car from. In my country the feature called Travel Assist is included in the "Assisted Driving Basic" packet which is standard in Style/Sportline/L&K but not in Essence/Selection trim levels. I had a brief look at the UK brochures but I could not find anything like that in the UK brochure. So maybe that feature does not exist in UK or it just missing from UK brochures. I don't know. Maybe you should go ask your dealer. The Travel Assist Feature which some could call combination of adaptive cruise control and lane centering works quite well and one could use it to drive hundreds of miles of highway without doing anything to steer the car or use gas pedal. The feature keeps the car in the center of the lane and all the driver needs to do is to touch very lightly the steering wheel so that the feature does not start ringing a bell to make sure the driver is paying some level of attention. There is a separate lane assist feature which means the driver is actively steering the car all the time and only if the car seems to go out of the lane this lane assist feature makes a nudge to keep the car inside the lane.

Stewart M, Thanks for this yes the switch is set to Auto however as soon as the car starts the front lights up like Xmas tree all lights on. Now this might suit some folk but as a tight Scotsman and professional engineer i see absolutley no reason for this! Think lamp replace yes i know they are LED but if these are on all the time the car is in use it wont take long for them to fail, yes i know the life expectancy of LEDs however in the real world they fail much sooner so now you can no longer stick in a new lamp (bulb for the non technical) its a new unit at somewhere in the region of between £1k&£2k replacement lamp £10/15 Evolution13 Where in the tester manual do it say they must be on without the headlmps?

I definitely need to have a proper play with it, I'm sure I'm missing something obvious regarding the dash. Yep, Blind Spot is turned on in the main Driver Assistance menu (or whatever it's called), that's exactly where I'm doing every time. I've only had the car 7 days. It doesn't have a towbar fitted now (unless it's retractable and tucked under the bumper). I'm going to poke my head under tomorrow. Thanks for your suggestions by the way.

Thanks for this. I went for the Superb SE in the end. Drove it again today. Not as well cushioned on some pot holes as i'd expect or compared to 90's french cars, but good overall and the best I've experienced out of 2 Audi A4's, MK2 Superb, Hyundai Kona, and the Octavia SE. With the Superb I actually like the floaty ride as it doesn't follow the contours of the road as much, which I can find a bit tiring after a while. A good well damped sporty ride can be a real pleasure but I always like good waft!

Once the panic has set in it makes its own problems, Sit down have a cup of tea then remove the other seats to give yourself room. Another pair of hands might be useful. Is the seat even on the runners and not twisted. Does the latch release completely. Can one person hold the chair square to the rails while someone gives firm blows with their hands on the chair frame just above the runners. I hope this is helpfull.

Ah, same as this then. I read it earlier but didn't think it was the same issue as yours Rear traffic alert and blind spot monitoring switching off | Skoda Kodiaq SUV Forum https://share.google/jy2vxNJPKp7mTfh11

No, not at that mileage. Complete waste of time and money (and oil).

I used Miller EE performance MTF 75w90, have been ruinning it for 7k miles, no problems. the gear box drain plug is a special, not quite sure what it is called but it's a 12 star (could be more, I didn't count them..) with a hollow centre, nothing else will fit.

Yes, Superb has 'Travel Assist' which does the steering bit. 'Lane Assist' is the nudge one you refer to.

@thamestrader I agree. Perhaps commercial interest trumps useability? I understand that some new cars are now sold without Android Auto (and maybe without Carplay too) so car owners are pushed towards built in functionality.

The fact that Carplay and Android Auto are not integrated with the Virtual Cockpit or fully integrated with the steering wheel controls is a short-coming, I can see that if Car Manufacturers provided an API for Carplay and Android Auto then they would avoid the need to provide and maintain all the functions that mobile phones include.

Not sure if I should have started a new topic but had a rather narrow escape last Friday when setting off on a long journey, hopefully this saves someone else from a similar fate! Superb had sat in the drive for probably a couple of weeks hardly being used and the weather has obviously been quite cold... Car was loaded, all ready to go. Pushed the start button and... not a lot happened! Was our day out about to be ruined? No! Enter my latest hero... https://www.amazon.co.uk/27000MAh-Compressor-UTRAI-Flashlight-Powerbank/dp/B0F4C96KZG?ref_=ast_sto_dp I bought this a year or so back to replace my previous portable compressor (which was 12v cable powered and died) for topping up the tyres occasionally. I didn't really have much need (or so I thought) for the jump starter or the other features such as power bank, flashlight etc but the fact that it was battery powered and had these extra features was a pleasant upgrade at the time and fitted with my mantra of being prepared for anything you can reasonably foresee. And I was exceedingly glad I had it (and that it was charged!) Straight out of the boot, bonnet up and connected up in seconds. Pushed the starter button and bingo - started like a new battery! On our way with only a minute or so of delay - VERY relieved! Not exactly putting a plug in for any particular product as I guess there are quite a few out there that do a similar job (there are smaller and cheaper ones available I believe). This just happens to be the product I have.

Ah perfect. That answers that one then! Thank you.

Sorry Dave, no, what I mean is when you use the VIEW button on the steering wheel and scroll through the virtual dash layouts. I can now get that to stay as last selected, but only when Personalisation is de-selected. The one that's infuriating me every time it's Blind Spot Assist turning itself off every time reverse is engaged. It's driving me nuts. No amount of setting/saving the memory function on the seat, adjusting the reverse mirror and pressing set/save, turning it back on whilst IN reverse and saving, is keeping the damn thing on at all times. I don't have a fault with it in the Vehicle Info screen, it just deactivates.

On the estate, those are the radio antennas.

I've found a parts catalogue entry for roof rails for a 2011 Fabia, interestingly it only came up when I widened the search from Europe to Worldwide, so maybe this is for China-built Fabias? There's only one set of part numbers listed (left & right) from which I deduce the hatch & estate rails are the same. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/ALL/FAJI/662/8/853/853030

Looks like my sons. From memory the drive shaft comes out complete once the hub and the 6 bolts are removed. On his there was no seal as the flange/seal remains in Gbox so no oil leakage. You are supposed to renew the 6 bolts and hub nut. I reused the 6 bolts but put some thread lock on them. Hub nut is use once and throw away. The bolts are vw triple square spline. Not sure if you will get away without removing track rod end but if its just the ball joint bolt I reckon it will go back in the same position. Alasdair

Perhaps You have figured it out already. You have to change the large screen background (screen settings) - this will affect screen in foron of driver

Of course - this was the one (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/406295175176). Perfect fit, although I would suggest cutting some of the length off the plastic bolts before installing, just to make it quicker, as you don't need the whole length.

As to where the coolant went to....the other niggle with the coolant header tank is the cap. These have a built-in pressure relief. All TDI's when they regen seem to pressurise the cooling system and they all loose a little coolant when the regen process occuring. The therory goes that the spring plastic slider inside the cap (that should be relieving the pressure) - works hard and the pressure relief stops happening (because the spring cannot open and relieve the pressure). Therefore the cooling system over pressures and the system will then dump coolant out of the overflow down the side of the engine bay. The Gen 3.5 cars had a revised coolant bottle and cap. If you order: Genuine VAG MQB Coolant Expansion Tank Cap – 2Q0121321A - it may resolve the issue with the coolant loss.

Hopefully a small leak at thermostat housing. Check for tell tale crystal deposits. Alasdair

It does sound like thermostat but question would be where the coolant went to. Check its not leaking anywhere especially around thermostat etc. My old Octavia did the same. Fine in summer but took ages to warm up in winter. Thermostat was past it. Alasdair

Battery may be completely dead. Had same problem a few years ago. Left battery too long and it went flat. Jumped from a similar sized diesel and all that happened was the leads started to melt. Good contact at both ends but reckon the old battery was taking any power/shorted out. Disconnected old battery and put on charge. Showed charging for a few mins then blew fuse in charger. New battery time. Alasdair

The Crossclimate 3 Sport, is only available in 18" and up. I did look into the Pirelli as it seems to get good reviews, but i cant find anywhere that has it for sale. In what way are you finding the Crossclimate 3 not up to your expectations?

Skoda Maidstone charge 365.16 this does not include filter

Yes so the car giving the charge is not surprised!

Agreed, if you are in the recovery business, then you should have at least 2 of those skates if not 4, on board, especially as they also remove the need to locate the actual jacking point on a car, plus some cars should be placed into jack mode before jacking to avoid suspension damage.

I have a 2020 Kodiaq SE L 2.0 TDI 190ps 4x4 with 7 seats in blue. It has now covered 54,000 miles, of which I have done about 30,000 Last year it needed new front discs and new pins/bushes on both front suspension arms. Otherwise I have had no problems and enjoy driving the car.

Welcome to the forum 🙂 Never seen this model before, but I hope there is somebody on the forum that is able to help you out!

Took parents home after Boxing day and thought I'd show off and activate the rear heated seats (first time using them) on my VRS MK4.5 (UK). Set both seats to the 2nd heat level without issue. Drove back home, decided to check if seats needed turning off but the controls wouldn't respond. Tried in settings to turn on/off no good.Left car and checked next day , all working again. Definitely one to keep an eye on if you have the winter pack and have people in the back.

The Jag ipace I saw out of power in a car park was where the owner had thought he had made it and would have if he’d not taken a wrong turn in the car park as less than 20 meters from the chargers. Guy had no idea where bonnet release etc and to add insult to injury the poor sod had left the lights on so the 12v was so flat it wouldn’t take a charge from a granny charger to get enough to drive to the charger.

In my (almost) previous life dealing with reconditioning cars and what not, I learned to be gentle with these things, way before I got to the Superb. Exactly noting how the spring makes the cover retract with excessive force, you realize is not something destined to last ... I keep always a word out to be gentle with almost all mechanisms in a car ... pulling a handle, opening glove compartment, and such ... most people take me as a "fanatic" or whatever, but when things fail, they cost much more than a nanosecond of attention ... sometimes I wish it was not so needed, but ...

Those "quite old" electrified vehicles, as you put it, are still comparably young when compared against some of the old ICE cars still in daily use, plus of course all the heritage and classic cars which may only come out for 6 months a year to attend the many classic car rallies and summertime fun drives. These cars carry signifcantly higher fire risks than cars from the 2000s, as the fuel lines etc. are all aged, and parts have aged and deteriorated far more than those on more modern cars, and also considering that the older cars are far more likely to be using homemade parts for some components, as manufacturers only have an obligation to make parts available for 10 years. Consider this.

I am almost certain that a faulty SD card will not cause the issue you report - but an antenna fault definitely will. If you can confirm that your system is Amundsen MIB2, I will check mine and report back on how to view the satellite information.

Sorry I missed this post. I often put the best tuning you can do is further driver training and it can be transferred to other cars at no expense. Motorbikes are a good example of being remote from the environment with earplugs, full face helmet, full "leathers" , gloves and boots it's no wonder they have to go so fast and make so much noise (similar to modern cars where the driver is so insulated and remote). Coming from a motorbike your son might even enjoy the extreme of a slower, less power, noisier car, where pushing it a bit is more fun than in a modern car and still withing legal speeds, the fun of maintaining a speed and probably keeping up well with modern traffic but having a bit of fun rather than half-asleep with boredom in the modern car. Don't fall into the trap of old car so any old cheap oils and petrol will do as with the modern oils and petrols the car will be better than when it was new and better quality modern oils (full synthetics of good quality) will also offer further and longer protection and provide more protect if other things go wrong and heat increases. Remember if you can't increase power you can reduce weight and a 50hp old car is better power-to-weight than a modern lardy 50(+) hp car. Remind your son where the power band is on the car for revs but other than not exceeding legal speed limits not to worry about what number the speedo needle points to, it's all about how it feels not numbers. No matter how powerful, quick, fast your car or motorbike goes sometimes you could always want more and anyway other cars and bikes will be more powerful, quicker and faster.

Good for helping but advice and quality of videoing can vary a lot and car might not always match your son's. Plenty of info on this forum and the other classic forums, even Project and Guides forums. I've watched YouTube videos with good diagnostics blokes still making the mistake of not checking the basics first before moving on to the sexy stuff and toys. The better ones will admit their mistake of overlooking the basics or other mistakes they make rather than editing it out or not putting that video up. Not (properly) testing the 12v battery used to catch out "classic" car owners and still catches out owners and professionals today. Literally today will be the busiest day for breakdown call outs and most will be where the owner/driver has neglected the battery with many modern car owners needlessly replacing the expensive 12v battery - what's called a distress sale purchase so you can get away with a higher charge still. I'll PM you then. Don't expect much as they were very basic stuff and I'm not sure how many of the 20 plus I still have.

In my opinion whether your son is new to driving or has learnt in, and drives, a modern car a 1998 car is fine for him and will teach him more about driving and road sense than (almost) all more modern cars. In many ways the older car will be safer as the driver knows about the lack of modern safety and also doesn't have to worry about or (over) rely on all the over-interfering modern car features, "assists" and "aids" which make the driver more of a passenger so less safe to be in charge of the car, and possibly distracted playing around with its toys instead. Also with an older car, particularly one that needs repairs, the driver learns proper driver maintenance and servicing which modern cars still need despite many modern drivers thinking it's not the driver's responsibility. Personally I think it would be good if all youngsters initially learnt to drive and maintain old cars before moving on to a modern car so that they have better basic knowledge and understanding and experience of driving a car and being a driver. Won't be long before, like most Americans, drivers can't use a manual gearbox (not a good thing given the issues with modern automatic type box and their electronic masters. And the joy of mechanical handbrake control (and not for doughnuttin' or J-turns!). Too much safety can make some driver's too complacent and reckless and that's when accidents happen and it's not always them that suffer the most, or at all. He'll learn about braking distances, difference road and weather conditions make - and to look out for idiot drivers and to avoid them. IF in the Czech Republic is like the UK with old cars then an old VWŠkoda would be greeted well on the road, at least by older drivers and pedestrians, waves and greetings being let out of side streets, conversations at petrol stations and garages, every one with a story about when they or someone they know/knew had one. Very different to being in a more modern car.

Because many, now a days, want to ride in a car rather than drive a car. ACC is NOT autonomous driving. It just keeps the speed and slows down to keep a safe distance from the car in front if that car is doing less than you set on cruise control. As to why you would want to code it out and not just rurn it off, confuses me. In places such as Vic, Australia where ther are speed cameras every 5km hidden behind road signs and the back of overpasses etc, you spend more time looking at the speedometer than at the road in front of you. You tend to drive watching the speedo with the occasional glance at the road to check the road, rather than the otherway around as we are taught when learning to drive. On a highway, ACC can help you focus more on the road and means you arent constantly braking and turning cruise back on again. If you dont live in a police state, then ACC may be less useful. As previously mentioned, you dont HAVE to use it. You can have it off by default. For the record, i have driven many 1000km per day trips in Australia and Europe on all manner of sealed and unsealed roads. I also prefer to drive a car.

Measuring the open circuit voltage of a battery alone can be misleading you need to measure its current capability under load. A quick test is to momentarily measure the current on the amps range (very momentarily) you should then be able to find the decent batteries.

Finally got around to this over Christmas. I changed oil and filter as it needs service anyway, fuel filter, and ran a can of diesel purge through the injection system bypassing the full system. So far it's been running great.

I have replaced my DSG thermostat this weekend and it has resolved my issues. I also got a grille cover as suggested by @Karpov and it's a perfect fit. I know we don't have arctic temperatures here, but every little helps.

The volt drop from the modules active during the first 30 minutes after locking alone are sufficient to put the battery below 12.5v especially if you have done a short journey and the battery has not heated internally through charging. You want the battery to go into sleep mode yet still be able to open the doors with the electronic keys, that is precisely what it would do if it were functioning correctly, shut down all of the controllers aside from the alarm and central locking after no more than 20-30 minutes, it will not do so if any of them are still communicating so that is the root of your problem. As myself and others have pointed out multiple times replacing the battery would be as big a waste of money as would filling a car with fuel which has a hole in the bottom of the tank.

Very true, but given the number of owners having problems with the 12V batteries dying on VAG PHEVs we have to assume that the early versions of the hardware & software do NOT have well written software! Why are you so reticent to tackle the root cause (modules not turning off) and so insistent on only tackling the symptom (a knackered 12V battery)? When fault finding the only sensible method is to identify, and then solve, the root cause. Repeatedly tacking symptoms is just expensive, frustrating and ultimately pointless.