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Also, the mechanical coolant pump is driven by its own small belt at the other end of a camshaft, that belt as it is not subject to any other loads should probably last the life of the coolant pump who’s life limiting factor is probably the plastic housing it lives in.

Zenga, in case it will help anyone else in the future, did you find out what the problem was with the central locking?

More reliable? It isn't just the interior trim that's compromised. Engine, electronics, gearbox, suspension are all built to a price. Good luck if you choose one !!

I use S often. Other than for hills, spirited driving. Briliant in town, on snow and ice. Drop back to S, no accelerator, or touching the brake. You drop a gear and slow down. Even stop. I have only 1 foot and have driven only 2 pedal cars for 50 years. All sorts. I like DQ200 with a manual parking brake or an e-brake.

so when i go uphill, on diesels DPF will clean, when i go downhill, on gasoline cars GPF will clean (lean mixture.)

I have the same 7 speed DGS and you just drive it like an automatic. Brake to stop, gas to go. Don't over think it. Even without hill/hold assist the car will wait a little bit after taking foot off the brake and being stationary before it starts rolling forward on it's own.

In hardware or Hobby stores may have, for another use but maybe they fit.

Just for your information, as this cam belt is not recommended to need “frequent” replacement, VW Group do not list a “cambelt kit”, only individual parts. Our local VAG Indie also replaced the belt tensioner while replacing the belt - probably as doing that makes good sense, along with changing the aux belt.

Well, its a time for everything. This forum has given a lot, and thats why I will stay here iot help or learn from all of you. Yes, I sold our Superb MK 2 and bought a new Tesla Model Y AWD LR juniper instead. Still have our Audi Q7 Etron diesel hybrid, so not given up on diesel at all yet. Since I also work as a part time private mechanic, I will still focus on VW, Skoda, Audi repairs. Well, thanks for now and my next post will probably be as a respond to someone or tips from my work on other peoples cars 🙂

After 7 years and 41,000 miles I have sold my Karoq . Generally it has suited my needs quite well, being quite economical averaging around 40-45mpg. it has carried all sorts of bulky loads e.g. a very heavy log splitter and piles of logs but the one serious problem has precipitated the sale. Its intermiitent habit of stalling when entering a roundabout or dual caarriageway this has caused much irritation and has put me on several occasions in a dangerous position, what makes it worse is the VW refuse to acknowlege the problem that is rife on the internet across models using the 1.5 engine. The replacement a kia Xceed, that is not as large, the engine much simpler in its design and sold with a 7 year guarantee, Early days but I have found it rather rather more nippy than the Karoq with several nice improvements.

Diagnostics is a big money maker for Main Dealers, even if the car is under warranty I believe you may have to pay for this?, Victim: "My windscreen wipers are noisy", "Yes Sir, our diagnostics does confirm this, that will be £150 Sir, £60 for the new wipers and only £90 for the diagnostics." Sharp Brakes??, For those of us old enough to remember it, what about the brake limiting/proportional valve, or whatever it was called, before the days of ABS?

Hi folks. Just joined up as I have a 66 plate Octavia that I use as a taxi. Bought it 2 years ago with 72k on the clock and now sitting at 209k. Been a great car so far but do have a few issues I need help with which I will post in the appropriate forums. Hope you are all doing well. Marc.

Much appreciated thanks.

Skoda fabia 2022 1.0 tsi auto. Although I posted this. I wrote to skoda indicating how sharp the brakes still are after purchase. I indicated that while under warranty they looked at brakes and filed the pads corners, no difference. Skoda wrote they understand that skoda dealer looked and brakes, they advised that I have technician and dinostic check. I mentioned the forum and others felt the brakes sharp. They give no reason why they sharp. So I felt the letter more or less left it to myself to book a check with skoda dealer at my cost.

I think I'll go for the 3m VHB, the strips only have adhesive application areas about 5-10mm thick at the upper and lower surfaces, in between is hollow.

If you let the state of charge and health get too low for the computers, after stop/start non-function when it should, the computers can make you suffer with all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages and unseen error messages and issues - even though your headlights seem bright enough and you have no issues starting the engine (battery has to be very low for that), there are lots of threads and posts on Briskoda about this as it catches out even very experience and long time drivers. One way to test the battery's current state of charge (not health) is to use a multimeter with the probes on the battery terminal posts, as long as possible after the car was last driven or charged, preferably after a good number of hours. Then you could allow say a 0.2 or 0.3 amp drop for the stuff going on with the car's awake computers and other bits. The car's happy with (about 80% of full battery charge) 12.4v or less to allow for regenerative stuff it might or might not give the battery enough or enough of with the car's use. Below VW's figures there are others with slight variances but we're not dealing with exact figures on real world car use. VW Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V

A couple more AliExpress upgrades today. The LED lights in the tailgate are very bright. All the light in that photo is from them. Next up will be front door speakers once they get delivered. And then wireless car play.

Within the START-STOP section of the Owner's Manual for my 2024 Fabia is this Basically (rather like the logic of the cranky software I used to write when I was programming at GCHQ) most of the time the Fabia's START-STOP system works as the driver expects it to (and the Owner's Manual suggests it should) except for the times it doesn't!

3M self-adhesive tape, other use windshield glue, i would use Logo Silic black. https://logo.gr/en/%CE%BA%CF%8C%CE%BB%CE%BB%CE%B5%CF%82/161-logo-silic-professional-5202456213507.html

From older topic (a no aircondition Felicia) i found this photo:

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I'd respectfully suggest that many of the electronic systems in a Dacia, that are largely proven technology from Renault et al (as Skoda used to be with VAG) are far less prone to glitches and far more reliable than those in the VAG stable at present...

Dacia / Renault know what VORSPRUNG DURCH TECHNIK ment and VW / SKODA just forgot. If VW Group did more on reliability and practicality they might do better. Also deal with snagging issues and design and engineering faults. Sort out rubbish software as well.

Controlling RPM is not important when regenning a GPF - ensure vehicle is in ICE mode, disable coasting, get engine fully up to normal temperature, get up to speed and back-off throttle several times (probably ideal going downhill)

DPF not regenerating and getting blocked? Check fault codes with a simple reader to find out what's wrong and get a good indy VAG workshop to have a proper look.

ah now that's a good idea Car arriving in a few hours so can measure up the wheel well and decide what I am getting ref the spare wheel.

Ps I ordered a new button as well £12.00 from amazon

This has happened to me so many times, sometimes it's missed only by where I am and nowhere to stop and I have to watch it click by helpless.

Small point. As long as any drop from MAX then stays as is and is not at MIN then good. There are no FILL TO THIS LINE. markings. Many vehicles set the level. Many get serviced and filled to MAX, you get home and the coolant level is back where it was before the top up.

It is high temperature to clean a GPF, much higher than a DPF. Thd first gpf,s were in thd mk3 Fabia 1.0 tsi and Octavia and some repirted issues soon aftef getting them. Then come covid time short runs. High rpm lasting tookng. Getting a PHEV running on petrol and the temp up regularly is going to be important.

The default settings are awful and the presets are useless. I am not an audiophile, but I have high quality headphones and speakers and am coming from a Volvo V60 with the Harman/Kardon system so I have an idea of what sounds good. In that car, I followed a guide from someone who is an audiophile and kind of adapted the settings to this Canton system. The settings available here are nearly identical to the ones in the Volvo and with a similar set up it sounds way better than default. I set the sub to max. Without setting it to max or close to it, the subwoofer has no effect just like the Harman/Kardon. I've set surround to max after listening at different levels and trying it off. I've also adjusted balance to be slightly forward, while leaving the focus on all seats. This is very subjective, I am by no means saying these are the absolute best settings, but feel free to try it out and tweak to your liking.

If the expansion vessel is correctly sealed, there should be no (or negligible) evaporation from what is a closed system. Yes, the H2O content of the coolant will boil-off sooner than additives, but should not be lost from the system. I'd suggest checking that the cooling system is actually pressurising (and holding pressure) when it heats up.

Vehicle Settings (car icon on top left) > Vehicle> Vehicle > Exterior > Swipe the car to the rear view > Brakes Here you will find the autohold setting. So intuitive Škoda...

When took my Fabia in for a service last year, I was told that this is normal. There is some sort of algorithm built into the system relating to the number of times that the start stop system activates and the number of times the vehicles is used. Not sure if this is true or not, but this garage I use for servicing are Volkswagen/Audi specialists so I'm inclined to believe that there is some truth in it. (Fabia engine is identical to Volkswagen Polo). I'm like you, I usually disable it every time so it doesn't really bother me.

Same here but with a 1.8TSI, just leave your left foot on the foot rest and use only your right foot on brake and accelerator. I live in an area where I have to do lots of hill starts and find the few seconds while the car holds the brakes on for me is plenty enough to not need to either select N (with stop/start the engine turns off so there's no concerns about clutch slip) or use the handbrake. I only use the handbrake (along with P on the selector) when parked on a slope. Very occasionally, mainly for smiles, I tap the selector back to D/S which switches the DSG to Sport mode that holds lower gears and increases the rpm point for upshifts. Then just tap the selector back to return the DSG to Drive mode.

It is in the Owners Manuals for Skoda / VW etc. It will be a growing issue. Plenty threads on GPF,s here. And ask Skoda Dealers about price of GPF replacements. Shrugs shoulders. PHEV,s might really become an issue.

First thing first: DPF - diesel particulate filter GPF - gasoline particulate filter most recent gasoline engines also have a particulate filter, in order to comply with Euro 6(d) standard. You probably need to drive for a longer distance using your internal combustion engine and NOT using the lowest revs possible.

Thanks for this, @nta16 - very helpful. Unfortunately, I don't have a complete record available for this car. No paperwork for service history was passed to me (beyond the internal invoice for the cam belt job) with the car. I deliberately had the car serviced at a local Skoda main dealer after a year so I could ask them for a print out of all servicing history they have on record. The records Skoda have on their central database has a big gap for this car, between a standard service in Jan 2018 (at 17k miles) and the service I arranged for Jan 2023 (at 47k miles), a year after I bought the car. So I suspect the servicing wasn't done at a Skoda main dealer / somewhere with access to the Skoda database. I have receipts of the work done by my local independent mobile mechanic, but of course there's no service logbook with modern vehicles nowadays that a mechanic can stamp with their business info into the history logbook. A bit miffed about that as I handed over a ton of paperwork for everything I'd done with my old Fabia when I traded it in (and I take some pride in seeing from its online MOT history that it remains on the road 4 years later) I had the air con re-gassed in June 2024. It was still working at that point, but performance had declined. I'm not aware of any recalls affecting my car.

Clips can be good for keeping one bit off another and prevent chaffing, secure the route, reduce vibration, other stuff, letting things wave in the wind isn't always best but often perhaps one missing fixing doesn't matter, all depends. Concours of course is a different matter, can get very anal very quickly. Somewhere there will be a clip sold that will do the job, you might have to buy a packet of a dozen, or 100 or 500 but if from China they'll be so cheap it won't matter about quantity and you have replacement spares (which you might need). If you go to garage or car supplier websites you'll find fixings for the various manufacturers of cars and generally just takes so longer to match up all the options offered against what you need. Only a few years ago you could still get a paper printed colour catalogue posted to you, possibly still can, I don't know. I bet there still might be someone or somewhere in the Czech Republic that has stock of the original but it's a matter of you finding them. If any army used that part then stocks of them can appear decades later with specialists, not sure they'd bother with a plastic clip though. A mate got an out of contract (30+ years) NOS engine, been in his 1960s car for a few years now., the engine had a long production life, British of course, tuned it nicely goes very well.

Hi, I had a Superb Mk3 Estate and currently drive a Kodiaq Mk1. I agree with @leolito's analyze about the Superb. Can't say anything about Tiguan, which I don't know. MPG: The 1.5 TSI/DSG is a "camel"dealing with mpg, if driven in eco-driving style. A Superb Mk3 (hatchback) owner on a french regularly hit 1500km with a full tank with a 1.4TSI engine. He was a professional lorry driver and applied eco-drving to his Superb Mk3 too. Regarding the Kodiaq, it's of course a bit thirstier than a Superb Estate, but not as much as I would have expected. E.g.when I had 7.15 l/100km over 136000 km of ownership with my ex Superb Mk3 Estate (TDI190 DSG6 4x4), I now reach 7.35l/100km with my Kodiaq Mk1 (TDI200 4x4 DSG7). DSG7 may help a bit compared to DSG6. Boot volume: A point to know (especially with young kids and a dog): Superb Estate Mk3 boot is 630l (under luggage cover), whereas the Kodiaq Mk1 boot is 750 (in 5 seater version). However, the false bottom of the Kodiaq's boot makes it a little bit less spacious. For holidays, it may be interesting to remove both floor panels of the false floor to save some space. Baby/Kids seats: Switching from a Tiguan to a Superb Estate Mk3 may not be a good thing for your daughter's back, if her kids are not old enough to buckle up their safety belt on their own. It may take only few months for them to learn how to do it. But each day of these few months may seem wayyyyy too long to your daughter. This could be a good point for the Kodiaq. Legroom: Though the Kodiaq Mk1 is roughly 16-17cm shorter than the Superb Mk3 estate, the legroom for rear passenger is quite similar on both Superb Mk3 Estate and Kodiaq Mk1. I have 3 kids (2 of whom are teenagers, the tallest is currently 5'7") no one complains they have less space for their legs though both front seats are quite pushed backwards (I'm 6'1" and my wife's 5'10")

Some mods were done inside as well such as flat bottom steering wheel, sportline/l&k cluster, ambient lights dash&door, perforated leather dsg knob. Now planning to do MIB 2.5 upgrade

It is damn easy. Take a wheel off the car and try in the spare tyre well. Less of a song and a dance and this might and that might not crap needed.

Hello from Czech republic My 2016 TDI 150, dsg Lowered on eibach pro kit, waiting for spring to fit 20" wheels and splitters all around the car

I'm running over 600bhp on standard injectors, no issues. I have uprated the Hpfp and Lpfp along getting larger 980cc mpi's to help

Can someone update link please. Thank you

Hi I suspect this is part of the return circuit that takes unused (leakoff) fuel back into the system. The pressure in this circuit is only moderate, which is why rubber hoses are adequate. It's possible that the connection was not fully secure, and with cold weather and increased fuel viscosity the pressure rose just enough to push it off completely. I'd recommend a new hose unless it's obvious that the fitting can be re-mated properly.

What did you do in the end and are you happy with your choice? I still have the old unit as I like the emissive technology rather than LED and plasma has really smooth motion vs modern stuff even if its limited to 1080p.

Yup, I have that cable running into the inside of the armrest storage. I can then put my phone on charge for those long trips. My Superb didn't have the additional USB port inside the armrest storage - so this was my workaround. The 90-deg cable allows me to keep that rear compartment storage closed. The front USB port is occupied by my AAWireless device, which allows me to use Android Auto wirelessly.

Found it: It was in the CAR STATUS menu!!!

With the generator, can You set up more than one set of tyres? I mean: can I make a unique file that contains, for example the Summer tyres (18 inches wheels) AND the Winter ones (17 inches), and select the ideal pressure when travelling with passengers only or with passenger and trunk full of luggage (as the label near the fuel lid)? The generated file can be uploaded via VCDS or can be also via OBD11 or ODIS? Once I generate it, is it better to download for each of these platform (having therefore 3 files in total)?