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Yeah alright guv....pull the other one 😀 If you don't want to change the brake fluid, don't. Not a good idea but totally up to you

Main Dealers or professional mechanic have pressurized system to replace brake fluid, so that there can't be air pushed in the system. If needed, here is a "how to" about brake fluid replacement. 😉 You think you had no problem in several years of ownership. It may looked so, but for sure, very progressively other all these years, your brake systems on any of your cars had lose their efficiency which lengthens stopping distance. Each time I replace my brake fluid after 2 years, the difference is noticeable. Brake pedal is firmer more quickly. Just have your brake fluid replaced and you'll see. 😉

It somehow started, Thank you all!

I had a water leak at 108k miles, took to an indie and had a phone call to say the belt was falling apart and pump leaking, i'd had the car from new, i hadn't hammered it and the mileage was well within service schedule. Its around £5/600 for pump, belt and tensioner.

P0237 can be caused by a failed or failing MAP sensor/turbo pressure sensor but it may also be a wiring fault/short/bad earth. check that its plugged in and making good contact/no dirt or corosion plus check for broken wires. Its normally on the intake manifold. May look like this There is very probably a part number on it for ordering a new one. Sorry no idea how to check if its good or bad. It can cause poor starting when cold and can also put EML on if car starts Alasdair

Think you will have to get it scanned for codes. It could be a bad coolant temp sensor Maf or many other things. Can your mechanic come out and perhaps scan it? Alasdair

Most Skodas are factory fitted with EFB batteries not AGM batteries, cost saving!

This is why, once warranty is over, I do all the maintenance that I can do myself… 😉

Next time you check the Brake Fluid for H20 ain the reservoir, also then check the brake fluid you let out at the calipers if bleeding and see if there is the same content. PS Water in brake fluid, maybe never noticed, but driving spirited, sporting, lots of heat in the brake system then that water boils. Sooner than usual even not if ever on a track the XDS / XDS+ will disable its self. Also brake fade. And there is corrosion in brake pipes and calipers.

None if you follow the procedure. Pretty sure you just keep the res full and draw the fluid off the lower parts.

They probably didn't it but never told you (or you didn't hear correctly) A bit. But you don't run with air in it. Probably fine for 10 yrs...the poor soul who inherited your car may have cursed you as the corrosion started to dominate their brake system It's not closed. Still absorbs moisture at the master cylinder... As you said, we never changed it in the past but that was to the detriment of our cars a bit. Not a heap, but Id change it at least every 5 yrs. Doubt it will actually ever boil due to moisture but the corrosion would be a thing for me

that were Mib2 maps, which had titles from half year future (but content half year old)

Hi I just bought a 2017 Jungle Green 1.4 TSI 4X4 Yeti. I know US cars pretty well, but not Skoda (nor VW or Audi...). Glad to learn from you guys and to share my knowledge!

Don’t worry. I worked it out. Managed to feed it through from one hole to the other without taking any other trim apart. all up and running. Wireless CarPlay is surprisingly good for £4 from AliExpress! And the compact design of the module and the wire means the standard power in the front and the other usb in the back can still be used. And the door closes over the top of the module too!

Not realy me, in 45 years literally, not one dealer shop (under warranty) and not one smaller shop, nobody EVER even mentioned brake fluid change ! I was always carefull to do all scheduled services,mostly even ahead of time. Some of those shop owners were my friends and realy, very good mechanics ......so imagine now my surprise.

This topic borders the surreal 🙃 But then again, brake (and clutch, by extension) fluid is something rarely taken care outside of the realm of the "fanatics" ... pity. Because the consequences can be dramatic. A point not extensively explained after the earlier topic referencing an accident, is that by being hygroscopic, the fluid will absorb moisture in the air (not the air), which will not only diminish the boiling temp of the fluid, but will act like an accelerated corrosive element especially in the most critical, closer to the calipers, and the one that heats the most in hard braking. At minimum, you an see the fluid color ... if lot limpid and honey-like, is well enough past replacement. And its cost is negigible .... Another extremely neglected item: coolant! But let's leave that for another topic.... Amazing ZJZ you escaped for so long this aspect of motoring ... 🤪

I had one speaker not working and the other very crackly when I bought the car so today was the day for the speaker upgrade. Thought I would write it as a bit of a how to/ how I did it post for anyone interested. I wasn’t aiming for a significant upgrade, more a replacement so I actually had a bit of bass in the music. I knew the audio was already split so didn’t want to get coaxial speakers as the tweeter would be pretty redundant. I chose these speakers: https://incartec.co.uk/product/pioneer-ts-g1710f-6-5-g-series-dual-cone-car-speakers-280w This fitting kit: https://incartec.co.uk/product/Skoda-165mm-6-5-Inch-front-rear-door-speaker-upgrade-fitting-kit-SFKU-SKO01-165?srsltid=AfmBOoq5Y4bVhgm-VHjXMRIz6i9xjxSMSXPjPpqMCMTggDuQCZcx55rH And got these foam rings to feed the sound through the door card and also apply a bit of pressure to the door card so it doesn’t rattle: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHv7xCk Removal of the door card was a bit nerve racking as it needs a strong pull to undo the clips. This video is a brilliant guide of removal and refitting: Once the door card is removed you have to drill out the pop rivets holding the speaker in. Top tip I learned from an engineer at work is you get a small (4mm) drill bit and use it as a punch and hammer the centre out the pop rivet. It makes it much easier to drill out. I used a 5.5mm drill bit then had to hammer the remaining parts out of the door metal. Be sure to retrieve the bits of rivet that fall into the door. I could then use M5 bolts with nylock nuts to install the adaptor rings. The speakers then screw into these nicely. Take note to correctly position the cut out in the adaptor rings for the wiring. I then added a bit of self adhesive Velcro to the back of the plug and stuck it to the door so that it doesn’t rattle. I then stuck the foam rings onto the front of the speakers and it was time to refit the door card. Be sure to check all the clips are in the right position as per the video above before refitting the door card. It wasn’t too bad but just a bit fiddly to make sure all the wires went back through the right holes. Then repeat for the passenger side, which was slightly easier as there were less wires to worry about. Both doors took about about 2.5 hours including tidying up etc. The original speakers had catastrophically failed so much so that the magnet had come right off one and was stuck to the inside of the door! All in all a decent upgrade. I’m sure it’s probably not a massive improvement over OEM but it’s definitely an improvement on non-working speakers!

Get it to your mechanic and get him to scan with decent scanner quick. Glad you got it started and I hope it stays that way. Alasdair

Apologies @Stonekeeper , I got my month wrong! It was first registered in March 2025.

In the UK, the '25' number plates were released on March 1, 2025, for new cars registered between March and August 2025?

A couple of low ones via the BM2 over the last couple of months. I constantly get ‘U’ data bus codes etc

Hi, for those maybe watching this, I simply started the engine (I had to move the car forward a bit anyway), then stopped it and left the key inside the car. I was able to jack it up sufficiently to remove the wheel to photograph it on inside to buy duplicate. No alarm.

Not sure about that model but in some cars switching off internal monitoring before exiting the vehicle disables the tilt alarm as well.

Not sure on that engine but normally inline with air intake from airfilter to throttle body. Had an old volvo with failed MAF and had excatly same symptoms. On mine it started roughly but stalled if I went over 1000rpm. I would get it scanned before replacing anything but you could check wiring to MAF and coolant temp sensor etc.

Hello, thank you! 226.000 kilometers, the spark plugs we're replaced like one month ago but the cold start was slow even after replacing them. But when the car is warm, it starts immediately.

Thanks for quick response. Never changed cambelt and water pump. Google suggests this is a thing to consider. I have a reliable, local garage. Would this be an easy thing for them to add to a service?

All really helpful @Evolution13 . Where can I get the service schedule for the car online to see what is due at what interval? I looked at the user manual on Skoda's website and no mention in there.

I don't understand why this is fishy. It seems it was tested 10 months ago and has 2 months left. If you wish to buy the car you could always ask for it to be supplied with a new MOT.

Thanks for coming back to me. It is a Skoda dealership I am buying the car through - when I asked, they said it didn't need doing until 24 months. This is why I was a little uncertain and was going to opt for a basic oil and filter change for my own peace of mind. I suspect, they push the variable to reduce the cost of ownership calculations for buyers so all looks better on paper?

Hi all, I drive a Škoda Octavia Combi RS iV PHEV and I’m new to this forum. Not new to Škoda, just new here. I’ll be reading along for real-world experiences, tips, and known issues related to this car. Happy to share my own findings where relevant.

For the last 4 years I have been driving a SE L Hatchback 2.0TSI 190 on 19 inch wheels. The engine is very good, quiet, responsive and trouble free and IMO is very well suited to the car. Unfortunately economy is not its strong point - as others have stated if you are motorway driving at legal speeds you will see 45+ mpg however the moment you hit town driving you are down to low 30s mpg in summer and you will see 24mpg on short winter runs in town. I am retired so most of my driving is rural /town with say 25% motorway now and my total mpg is 32,6 Having said the above I would not go back to diesel because of the quality of the drive with 2.0 petrol Hope the above helps

Thank you both for the replies. The listing states that it has full dealer service history, but I don't know yet if it's had the latest service interval items i.e. filters and spark plugs - I will check on those. @Evolution13 - is brake fluid replacement recommended at those intervals? The tyres look to be good condition Continental AllSeasonContacts. I will be test driving too, so I'll watch and listen out for anything suspect. Thanks again

Oh, misunderstanding. Of course I'll change it, just dont have confidence in authorised dealer shops. Because of warranty it's required to be done only by them.

You certainly have a great car experience, I won’t discuss it, but the quote above IS the point indeed. From day to day over 2 years, you don’t notice anything, because it’s soooo progressive. But once changed, your first words are just: wow! Not a bad thing, I had the brake fluid replaced. Just have a look to my ´how to´ and compare old / new brake fluid color. But it’s up to you. Not my car, not my passengers. 🤷‍♂️

@dsgman Good that some Police Force's vehicles are serviced and the 'Brake' fluid checked or changed. There are forces ion the UK and certainly regions of Scotland with Police Scotland vehicles where servicing is terrible, and vehicles not even MOT,d. But the MOT thing can be true anyplace in the UK with Police vehicles.

Spotting air in the braking system is very easy - the pedal will be 'spongy'

You could just leave it until just before you sell the car. Just in case lightning strikes twice.👍

Had a similar issue with the passenger seat heater turning off & back on at random intervals; driver seat was fine. Dealership replaced the passenger seat heater micro-switch under warranty.

The Columbia music playing issue

Thank you. A good lead!

You can put an extension (e.g. a plastic cap) in the right side that's missing. Me, i have wrapped those ends with cloth-tape so there are no vibrations and noise in road bumps and no trembling.

Sandpaper (low grid in the beginning) will do the work, do not use tungsten bit because you will destroy everything in the surface (needs a lot of experience and a very steady hand). Use gently a Glass scraper https://www.glavista.com/img/personalizacion/guardian/products and remove any glue residues with isopropyl alcohol.

Overthinking is something I do very well - especially with my car. I’ve only been driving for four years, and been stung badly with two cars - one from a main dealer. I think one of the better stories was with the second one - a SEAT “master tech” told me that a noise I was hearing over bumps was age related. It definitely wasn’t the fist-sized rock an Indie found lodged in the subframe. As a result, I’ve grown to check and double check something, twice over. For now, anyway.

Sounds like something to be done most times when washing just to be on the safe side. Good tip 👍🏼

Read a post regarding TCM wiring. The plug to gearbox was dirty with oil/water ingress causing no comms. Check its clean and making good contact etc. Alasdair

I watched the video several times to be sure and buying the obd reader will have uses further on when the orange warnings pop up next Software installation ran well, make sure your engine is running to ensure stable power (battery power drops can cause it to crash) as to use, I run Waze for navigation and an app called Musicolet to play downloaded or ripped music through the speakers, this app is compatible with Android auto and I don't want to pay Spotify to listen to music I own

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@imart143 'I think' it tells you so in the Owners Manuals. As far as AC works it needs warmer air to operate for cooling. As to drying air, yes, and AC is not just about cooling. I have it on in freezing weather in my BEV at below freezing and heating full on at 28*oC to defrost / demist in a matter of minutes. Heat pump... For the Skoda ICE or PHEV,s now on sale maybe someone could look in their owners manaual and see what is said by Skoda / Manual writer.

If you mean the non-standard (for the Superb MK4) 6Jx17 ET48 alloy rims from the Octavia MK3, then perhaps also consider non-standard (for the Superb MK4) 6.5Jx17 ET41 alloy rims from the Superb MK3. These have the same ET41 offset that the Superb MK4 7.5Jx17 ET41 rims have, but they have a 1" smaller rim width at 6.5". With the 215/55R17 tyre size, a 7.5" rim width doesn't offer much protection for the rim from kerbing damage because the tyre's sidewalls don't bulge out much. As you can see in the ETRTO chart below, 215/55R17 can be fitted to a rim width between 6" and 7.5". Out of the four allowable rim width fo the 215/55R17 tyre size, my preference would be 6.5" followed by 7". One owner mentioned that their alloy rims from the "skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue" cost about 20% more at UK VAG dealers compared to the online Czech price. However, one owner purchased from "skoda parts com" where the website claims that they are set up to pay the UK VAT. Prices at "skoda parts com" seem to be similar to "skoda eshop cz", although unlike "skoda parts com", "skoda eshop cz" don't appear to be setup to ship to the UK. It's best to purchase winter tyres in the summer, or at least by September...because demand and prices increase dramatically from October onwards. ETRTO approved rim widths for passenger car tyres 215/55R17 6.0-7.0-7.5 225/50R17 6.0-7.0-8.0 6.5Jx17 ET41 5/112 57.1 alloy rim TRITON (from Superb MK3...non-standard for Superb MK4) https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/superb-3/spare-parts/accessories/wheels-steel-aluminium/aluminium-wheel/17-895.html As you can see below, the winter wheel sizes for the Superb MK3 are similar to the Superb MK4 winter wheel sizes, ie. 0.5" narrower and with 2mm less offset. For the 215/55R17 tyre size, my preference would be a 6.5" rim width rather than the slightly wider 7" rim width. The 0.5" narrower 6.5" rim width provides better protection for the rim from kerbing damage because the tyre's sidewalls bulge out a little more. Technical specifications (from Superb MK3 owner's manual)Permitted rim / tire combinations for the installation of the snow chains. Rim size Wheel size 6.5Jx16 ET41 215/60 R16 6.5Jx17 ET41 215/55 R17 Only use snow chains with links and locks no larger than 13 mm.

@semiroundel - there r two types of tail lights, Low version and High version. Depending on the model, u'll get either low or high taillights. It's not broken, nor a warranty thing. Low version is simpler, and the inner tail light (on the boot) is not wired up, hence doesn't light up. High version is usually full LED and both outer and inner lights r fully functional.