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Well that stuff is magic! Mark completely gone. Took a few coats to clear it completely but I reckon I used about 20mls of the 300ml Bottle to achieve it! Thanks @Lee01 for the tip!

Took in fading light with flash this evening - relieved the flash didn't discombobulate the Robin!

Came across this orange globe in the sky this evening 🤔

Amazing thanks. I really need to stop coming on this forum. It keeps making me spend money…

So it’s goodbye to my Skoda Octavia iV estate. It going to be replaced in the next few days by a Renault Scenic which on the lease scheme I have available is way cheaper - I can get the top of the range one for the price of the cheapest Elroq. I’ve had the car 4 years since new. First there was the software issues but I have a good local dealer that completely reprogrammed the car for me and everything pretty much worked fine after that. It’s been comfy for long journeys, it’s pretty fast and apart from the droopy nose looks decent too (I upgraded the alloys and got the nice green blue colour). Interior has held up well but I do look after it. It has been plagued by rattles and squeaks, some of which I never got to the bottom of (neither did the dealer) which was very annoying and also the fuel economy was dire unless I charged it up and even then it wasn’t great. Thing 30-35mpg round town if you haven’t charged it. I’m glad I ordered it and it’s been good overall but I’m not bothered about getting another one - annoyed I can’t really get an estate car cheaply on my scheme so have had to go SUV but it’s cheap enough so it’s ok. Anyway if anyone wants a full set of custom mats for free and can pick up from Huddersfield then they are all yours. Never been used, got them with the car and always used the Skoda ones. They are nice! I am also selling some Yakima roof bars for the car too, they are the best ones you can get (better than Thule). I would join the site to sell stuff but it’s not worth it for one item being as I am moving away from Skoda! Anyway thanks for the chat and banter and shoulders to cry on regarding the software, hope you are going to enjoy Skoda ownership for a lot longer!!

Alasdair1/JohnMack Great replies Laters Tom

We know it can feel a little frustrating at first. The reason we require at least 20 content items before personal messaging is simply to keep the community healthy and genuine. We’ve found that open messaging from brand-new accounts can lead to spam, unsolicited promotions, or people joining only to message others without actually participating. By asking everyone to contribute a bit first, it helps new members get familiar with the space, join conversations, and become part of the community before jumping into private messages.

Breezy Pete False alarm.............this is a good one. I've just rechecked the meaning of the warning lights..........It's the COOLANT level light thats on NOT the oil level sensor........what a stupid boy!!! I've just checked and the coolant level was slightly low......hence after topping it up, the COOLANT level warning light doesn't comes on anymore!! Loooool, who would believe it!!! I think I'll put this down to 'having a senior moment'. It can't be my fault because the wife tells me that men never make mistakes........hahaha So, once again thanks Breezy Pete and Alasdair for your help All the best everyone Tom

It the whole route from Tilbury to Norwich... There are lots of beauty spots and National Landscapes etc. Many better than in the west of the country...

If there's still oil showing on the bottom part of the dipstick, you have not lost all of the sump contents - probably more like a litre, some of which loss might be explained by the engine not being topped up completely during the service. Add about 1/2 litre of the correct grade oil and recheck the level, continue to add small quantities if level is still below maximum, then monitor for correct level frequently to check if oil is being used. Bad idea to rely on idiot lights - there is no substitute for correct engine fluid level checks.

I see mods have done some cleaning since I saw this before on the new content feed… can I offer a tip? Next time there’s a huge data dump coming that needs to be edited a lot - Do it up as a word doc so you can take your time and put it all together and change as needed. Then copy paste or just upload it as an attachment

If theres no leaks or signs of missing oil it may be as said not been filled properly. I would top it up an monitor it regularly for a while and see if it drops. Mention it to garage who did service as well as if it doesnt drop once topped up they owe you some oil. As theres still oil on stick the amount will be less than 4.3l Check how much it takes to top it up. If it was burning oil would cause a lot of smoke. Only other place it may be if its leaking is intercooler although reckon you would still have smoke etc. Alasdair

The handbook for your car says you need 4.3 litres if the oil filter and oil are both changed. A hot oil smell can be caused by oil spilt and not cleaned away. Loss of oil soon after an oil change is often caused by the mechanic using the old drain plug and gasket. VW state that a new drain plug and copper gasket should always be used.

Cig lighter in MkI Fabia is permanent live. The RAC fella needs to go back to college and learn how to use a multimeter. He could very easily have confirmed it was permanently live in two minutes but instead he's wangled the cost of a new battery out of you.

OK, so a week or so of effort, and not a bad result for a first timer! And yes, it is clear that the car has had a rear end shunt in it's past, but I'm not going to get it on a jig to pull the frame straight, so it'll have to do as is. Next job will be the rust on the trailing edge of the rear wheel arches, bumper off for those ones, and I think they'll be a bigger job......

You're a god send thank you

I experience the same issue with my car (Octavia MY 21 infotainment v. 1941). Have been going on for about 2 weeks. My car prompts the update everyday despite reporting successful installation the day(s) before. Got a generic reply from Skoda telling me to perform a factory reset. Will try that but allow me to doubt. Have anyone got rid of the never ending notification, and if so, how?

Some lovely scenery running down from the far north of Scotland or even just Beauly to Denny. From Kintore to Tealing & across the Scottish Borders. That is not bothering those that want their electricity transmitted overland to them hundreds of miles south. & want it cheaper than those that will be seeing these power lines.

Cheers mate,,, I know what you mean by properly cranking, letting the system boot it's self up before the start procedure,,I've tried that a more than I could count as its a taxi been on the road a lot ,,I've tried cleaning the sensors, the error comes on and off like a Christmas tree.iam starting to think it's a wire that's not properly seated right in a connection,, goes into Skoda on the 5th march,, hopefully it will be fixed then

What a great post As an old school kinda guy, and of the thinking that a car is a mechanical device to get from A to B whilst enjoying the fact you've looked after and serviced said car and not just bought(rented?) a computer on wheels to keep up with the neighbours ...... You gotta love an old diesel !! 👍 Glad it was just a senior glitch 😉

Yes, sir

Hello I just got a Kodiac and look forward to using this site

Looks like it’s Audi only.

Yes I know that. Just interesting that it’s a potential menu option so was trying it out.

Your blank battery status display is normal - that function was disabled by Skoda some time before MY16 (Sept/Oct 2015) If the battery type was actually changed from AGM to EFB, that change should have been registered (adapted) into the vehicles BCM.

You're going round and round in a circle. I have never mentioned anything about what type of pylons; in fact, I don't care what type they use or care about what route they take. All I was ever pointing out to you was that the subsea cable system was coming ashore in Norfolk; the rest of the route was always overground on some sort of pylon.

Hi everyone I own a Skoda Superb 2019

Polybush units fitted (it's highlighted I need to treat the surface rust on the sub frames), d/s old one was well worn (You can't see in situ the wear for the plastic shields/spacers)

What does the MOT history show?

not a job you can do yourself. You need to use either a car locksmith to make and code a new key (fob) or go to the dealer.

I'm going to suggest something different. Service the car annually as a minimum even if you don't do many miles. In fact more so if you don't do many miles. Make sure the right oil and the right oil filter are used. (They don't have to be "Skoda" but they do need to be OEM meeting OEM specs.) Active cylinder technology and stop-start place a lot of strain on an engine and if you are not careful it will gum up a lot faster. I'd also do the air filter more regularly than specified for the above reasons. Pollen filter, follow manufacturers recommendation unless you live somewhere really dusty. There is a YouTube channel called The Car Edition, it features real mechanics working on real cars. It's an eye opener and regularly gives the lie to manufacturer service recommendations.

When the bonnet was opened for more than 30 seconds even if no oil was added the Warning Message or Yellow Oil Can light should have then gone off for the next 100 km / 62 miles or so.

Yes, or Take Off the Batterie

I got it from someone in the same position as you - cluttering the loft and was going to landfill - I paid the postage and she was kind enough to wrap it all and take it to the post office. Maybe someone on here needs one though?

Nobody is disputing what you are saying in essence; yes, anyone could do this or that, but they first of all have to have the money, what you call a little money might be an impossible amount to others. There are so many reasons why a person cannot or doesn't want to do it. Maybe if your batteries were to fail and take your house with them, then maybe you might think to yourself that just maybe, you took it a bridge too far? For many people this is a real concern for them. Who knows? My wife wouldn't like me to go down that route, it was bad enough getting the solar array accepted, and even more so when it sat on the roof for a year, dead as a dodo, after the company looking after it did not want to come and fix it. Like I said earlier, you really could with your unbridled passion for all things electric and your unshakeable belief that there are no problems with it, get yourself a job on the Fully Charged Show. You need to accept that others don't see it as clear-cut as you; there are conflicting scientific reports on the subject from many respected universities. Why is that only those backed by the government get the oxygen? After all, the government are only career politicians in the main; very few of them have any scientific background or engineering degrees or experience, and they seem only too willing to back the ideas put forward by think tanks. Who also happen to bankroll many of them, for example, the Lettuce who only held office for 44 days. 😁 Liz Truss: UK Prime Minister’s campaign funded in part by wealthy who stood to benefit from controversial tax cuts | CNN These people don't provide backing without the prospect of getting that back with a massive profit margin built in Politics is a dirty business don't you know?

My 70-plate estate is a couple of hundred miles short of 70,000; 65k of which in the last 4 years. Mechanically never missed a beat; on today’s 200 mile journey from Bicester to N Wales, pretty much all motorway and dual carriageways at legal limits, it returned 60.8 mpg (2 up and a full boot). Its on variable service interval, with Long Life oil, which in practice has been about 19k intervals, all done at main dealer.

They have set the car to fixed servicing, it should be showing 18600 miles (30,000km) and 2 years for oil service and inspection I had the same thing with my Golf Mk8, and ended up having to print the official VW service intervals to give to my VAG specialist so that they would set it to variable service A main dealer will try to steer you to fixed servicing as it makes them more money!

@lol-lol yes, we all get that and how it affects you and also how you use it and plan to take it with you should you move etc. The thing is even if everybody was to do that, bearing mind that plenty could not afford to do that or even wish to have solar arrays or storage batteries for cost or many other reasons, not forgetting that for many home charging is impossible. That is still not going to be able to meet the energy needs for all of the EV vehicles in time for the governments plans with the HGV's etc and the power stations and transmission lines from Scotland will take far longer to get in place and operation to meet the plans.

Hi Martwek, Id question the diagnosis of a failed diff before they have drained the oil to see what is going on. They may be right but sometimes the "you need a new one" is quick solution to solve a mystery rather than digging further. Id want to see the oil, what it looks like, if there is any swarf in there, so as a first step Id do an oil change to see if that helps. At the same time Id want the haldex oil changed and the internal filter removed and cleaned as that step is often overlooked but a good VW independant will be able to sort it. As a fellow scout owner the 4x4 system can be a bit noisy as it ages, id even call it a bit of a whine but it doesn't necessarily mean its failed. Hope this helps Cheers

I had quality time in the garage. I cleaned haldex filter which is not in service program. After 175000km It looks like this. With fresh filter I might have helping rear axle. With this glogged filter 4mo was only frontwheel driven. [img]

It sounds a lot like conditions are not being "set" for the starter motor to run/engage, and mainly I'd think, that will come down to the DSG selector assembly. Having an AGM battery from factory is unusual for a small petrol engine, the battery management part of a controller should have been configured to reflect that AGM battery being fitted, it would be useful if you had a suitable scan tool to check what the car thinks is fitted to it now in terms of battery technology and capacity. This will be a separate thing to the failure of the start motor to run - or be asked/enabled to run. Edit:- again having a suitable scan tool like VCDS would let you check if "starter enabled" was being "set" when you tried to start the car and it refused to activate the starter motor. I would have hoped a proper workshop would have checked this, I can understand why they would whip out the AGM and fit a "correct" battery - but again I'd hope that they would have checked which type and size of battery the car had already been set up for prior to them changing the battery.

The Invoice means nothing. Just what they charged you. Just if you dip the oil between that service and now? So you do not know 4 litres was put in.

Has it used 4 litres? Did you dip the oil at operating temperature after the Service. It was not you that put in the oil was it at the service?. You got a warning, you have still oil in the sump, it is not empty.

Thanks for your advice sussamb - I am not at all competent at using this forum and don’t know how I managed to post to the Karoq forum. I do indeed have a Kamiq.

Don't agree. Technology will provide without massive Grid enhancement. Australia, from being a fossil fuel luddite has become a renewable energy leading light. Yes they have s bit of advantage with more sunshine but their transition to renewables, home generation and storage, encourage by some grants to businesses and homes were seen as much cheaper than massive Grid upgrading. Adoption of local solar and batteries to hundreds of thousands has taken pressure off the Grid. A lesson to other governments. The technology improvements and lowering costs has made local electricity generation available to all. The National Grid rather than being stressed beyond breaking is actually being marginalised by the vast growth in local generation.

If all else fails, you can get genuine ones here.

A bit lengthy post, but I'd like to share my findings so far. Reason one, this post often pops up in search, reason two, I'm currently trying to find replacement engine. Since CTHE are very difficult to come by and I found only one damaged I started cross-referencing other variants of CTH. I was using legit account of partslink24 with Seat Ibiza VIN that had CTHE and free account SuperETKA with few random VW model that had CTHA,B,C,D engine plus A1 with CTHG and of course my own Fabia with CAVE. By no means this list is exhaustive or definitive ! Following list has CTH numbers. If you see any error, please correct me. If you see CAV typed after CTH assume it's for all subvariants as stated for CTH i.e CTH E,D = CAV E,D / CTH A,B = CAV A,B unless specified otherwise. If I haven't typed F or G variants in few parts, but if E has them, then you can assume those two also. In green are parts that differ between CAV and CTH In blue are parts specific to high horsepower variants Throttle 03C 133 062 AA new partnumber from 2012 (most likely created with CTH variants) Coil on plug 036 905 715 H superseeds F and G Injector 03C 906 036 N superseeds M since 2012. Seat forums suggest that 03C 906 036 F was initially in CAV and can be swapped together with wiring connctors to fit CTH swap. Engine block 03C 103 011 AR - Same for CTH A,B,C,E,F,G and CAV Timing cover 03C 109 210 CM - specific for each engine, here CTHE it superseeded 03C 109 210 AR from CAVE. Important. Timing cover most likely this can be swapped between engines since as far as I can tell on the inside only oil separator is different and it's external shape that's chassis matched. Oil separator can be swapped. Timing covers from older units pre-CAV cannot be used. Separator made by Hengst from p/n AR is 03C 103 464 E and can be seen of photos for few different covers, but other p/n with changed final letter also exist. Way to difficult to pinpoint what's up. Complete piston set with rings 03C 107 065 CK - same for CTH A,B,C,D,E. In CAV it has notice of importance that it MUST be used instead of previous unit and funnily enough, diagrams say explicitly those older ones are permanently unavailable. Connecting rods 03C 198 401 D - same for CTH A,B,C,D,E and CAV Crankshaft 03C 105 101 BM is a superseeding unit BF (BF is in some CAV) - same for A,B,C,D,E and CAV Cylinder head with camshafts 03C 103 063 CR Specific to CTH E,F Cylinder head WITHOUT camshafts 03C 103 264 E same for CTH A,B,C,D,E,F and CAV Inlet camshaft 03C 109 101 DC same for CTH A,B,C,D,E and CAV Exhaust camshaft specific between CTH and CAV but A,B,C,D,E variants of those two share them so for example CTHA has same p/n as CTHE Cylinder head cover (one that hold camshafts) 03C 103 475 BC has been superseeded by p/n CD in 2013 for CTH A,B,C,D,E Valve lifter/rocker 036 109 411 K has superseeded 036 109 411 E in all CTH and CAV engines but it's not inherent to CTH Valve springs are a bit of mix. Most catalogs show one number for IN and one for EX aside from SEAT that uses one on both sides. EX-036 109 623 AC IN-036 109 623 R Most likely same for all CAV CTH Exhaust valves 03C 109 612 have been superseeded and changed for CTH. There are three p/n that differ in last letter G, R and AE Intakes valves show as two numbers 036 109 601 AD and 036 109 601 AL I'm not absolutely sure, but AL pops up more often with CTH. AD is in my CAVE Skoda. Timing chain tensioner 03C 109 507 BA has superseeded AH from CAV. BA fits CTH A,B,C,D,E,F,G Timing chain and guides 03C 109 158 A, 03C 109 509 P, 03C 109 469 K same for CAV CTH (A,B,C,D,E,F,G) Timing sprocket and adjuster 03C 109 571 F, 03C 109 088 E same for CAV CTH (A,B,C,D,E,F,G) Engine oil cooler 03C 117 021 J same for CTH A,B,C,D,E and CAV Turbo with manifold is variant specific for CTHE and others (some engines like CTHG have multiple numbers including rebuilt units) and it would take way to long to figure out which is which. Compressor 03C 145 601 E same for CTH A,B,C,D,E and CAV Water pump 03C 121 004 J same for all CAV CTH Sealing flange with sealing ring and trigger wheel 036 103 171 B same for all CTH and CAV Rear flange for gearbox 03C 103 551 H same for CTH B,C,D,E most likely others too. Intake tube for oil pump 03C 115 251 AE specific to higher power engines E,F,G but same for CAV and CTH Oil pump chain tensioner 03C 109 507 AF specific to higher power engines E,F,G but same for CAV and CTH Oil pump chain 03C 115 225 specific to higher power engines E,F,G but same for CAV and CTH Oil sump specific to C,B,E but interchangable CAV-CTH (A and D variants have different sump number) Oil pump 03C 115 105 AG same for CTH C,B,D,E - probably CAV too Oil pump sprocket 03C 115 121 J has superseeded M but both show in all CAV CTH Crankshaft oil pump sprocket 03C 105 209 AG specific to higher power engines E,F,G but same for CAV and CTH High pressure fuel pump 03C 127 026 M from cav has been superseeded for CTH with 03C 127 026 P and later there was newer superseed 03C 127 026 R some forums say it solved flooding and unequal delivery to cylinders. High press. fuel hose 03C 130 241 AS this is 4th final revision. My CAVE Skoda had AN or AP High press. fuel pump rocker 06L 109 311 has been changed for CTH (A,B,C,D,E,F,G) and superseeds in CAV In-tank fuel pump 6R0 919 051 N has been changed few times, this is final number. High output units also use higher pressure fuel filter. This is more chassis revision than CTH itself. Crankpulley 03D 105 255 D same for CTH C,B,D,E and CAV Cover in front/near oil pump 03C 103 669 H changed for CTH and superseeds p/n 03C 103 669 E for CAV PCV piping 03C 103 474 AD shows in diagrams with note "since 2012" but doesn't explicitly say it superseeds. This number I typed is from CTHE in Seat Ibiza. Second PCV pipe 03C 103 558 AA superseeded p/n K it's specific for CTH E,F,G notes say it has to be used with intake pipe 6R0 129 684 E Oil jets 03C 103 157 A same for CTH A,B,C,D,E,F,G and CAV and also many other engine including those starting with letter B. Additional info about timing. There is a separate kit from VAG that serves as upgrade, yet individual parts do not show as superseeding. Two notable are chain with less but thicker plated links and final revision of timing chain tensioner. It's number is 03C 198 229 B Letter B is important as this defines timing chain/oil pump sprocket ! This kit HAS TO BE used as COMPLETE swap. Sprockets have different amount of teeth, and even though final ratio is the same as stock CAV CTH, it CANNOT be mismatched. 03C109158H Timing chain (changed from A) 03C109507BD Chain tensioner (changed from BA) 03C109088G Camshaft adjuster (changed from E) 03C109571K Camshaft sprocket (changed from F) 03C105209BC Lower timing/pump sprocket 19/23 (changed from AG) 03C109509AA Chain guide (changed from P) 03C109469R Chain guide (changed from K)

Thoughts are that Amazon will pay very little attention to whether they’re right or not while dodging as much Corporation Tax as possible. But the pads look correct for the front judging by Autodoc 👍🏼

Hi, I've started replacing the engine in my Skoda from a 1.4 55kW engine to a 1.8t (AUQ) from a Golf 4 GTi. I'm having a bit of a problem with the driveshafts. The flange in the old engine was 94mm, while in the new one it's 108mm. Which car should I get driveshafts from that will fit the 108mm flange? I was thinking of just getting them from a Golf, but the website says that the driveshafts in the Golf are about 5cm longer each, for a total of 10cm, so I'm worried they'll be too long.

Fog lights should only be used in certain conditions not for normal driving.