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KYB were also factory suppliers to Subaru. I replaced the shocks on my 15 year old (at the time) Impreza Turbo and the car is still having fun on bumpy, twisty North Yorkshire roads at 25 years old. I think they were the Excel-G model

@JR RS I fear Gandalf doesn't still suit anymore. IMHO, Hulk would be more appropriate, now. 😁 ~400BHP. Wooo... I assume you don't need hair comb in the morning anymore. Just sit in the car, press right pedal: Hair dress fixed! 🤣

No, it's a 'manicat' which the front pipe bolts to the bottom of. It'll be failed flexi, for sure. Someone at Pirtek might be able to help with the PAS pipe.

Had a quick look on KYB cat as I was looking anyway for my old Seat and checked parts in motion website for price/availabilty Not exactly sure what model of yeti you have but seems to be two front springs depending on model KYB 334834 front shock £99.21 per pair KYB 910004 bump stop £15 each KYB SM1714 top mount £16 each KYB RA3364 spring £35 each or KYB RH2957 £30 each (not sure on what model yeti you have I would check with reg etc on the above as I may be wrong. If the shocks are just misting the chances are that they will still be misting next MOT. My octavia had advise of misting for 3 years until one finally went. As for the drains if there on your property a couple of cans of expanding hilti foam may help the situation. Alasdair

Colourful end to the day.........

Drivers side footwells on my vrs have been gathering water. The sunroof drain was the culprit before but this seems fine. There was some gunk Under scuttle but I poured some water in it and it’s draining as it should 🤷🏻‍♂️ Mate wet vacced it for me and carpet seemed fairly dry near sills, all on front and rear footwell. Any help gratefully accepted!!! Can anyone think of another likely source?

Been lurking on here a while but never posted. Just picked up my new car - a 2019 sportline 280. Very happy. Also lease an Elroq and previously owned a Mk1 Octy rS wagon with a stage 1 tune.

Hi, I'm Kerem 22 years old and electrical technician. I'm big car enthusiast, and my ride is a 2016 Skoda SuperB 2.0TDI 4x4 i like tinkering with my car, and I've done some mods and maintenance myself: Stage1 remap, downpipe, DPF/EGR/Adblue removal I'm here to learn and share tips about technical improvements

Hi Karem, welcome. If you have not already seen them along with lots of other model and more general sections there are forums for 'Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 - 2023)', 'Skoda Superb Guides' and 'Superb Projects' in the 'Škoda Superb' section. And 'General Maintenance', 'Audio, Electronics and Security', 'Diagnostics & VCDS' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums in the 'General Forums' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/95-general-forums/ 'Škoda Superb' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ I know nothing other than 50 years of car ownership experiences (many bad, especially with some in the English motor trade) and try here to promote how important the 12v battery is especially to the old stop/start models and even more so with the very (over) complex VW cars more modern cars will all their "assists" and "aids" and comfort and other toys (to make drivers passenger behind the steering wheel). Many find it difficult to understand the battery being in a bit of a low state of charge can really upset the commanding gods of the computers systems, modules and computer programs. Hopefully you have been taught and learnt well and know to always start at the very basics beginnings, no matter how far you progress and qualify in your work and to use your human diagnostics of your human senses [ ETA: sight, touch, hearing, smell, etc. ] brain power, training and experience before going on to the other toys and to check and cross reference to confirm what any computer or person tells you. I think you will be able to teach a lot and learn a lot from the experienced owners here and other (good) motor trade professionals here. Good luck, enjoy.

Skoda absolutely allow dealers to retrofit tow bars and “code” the car to tell it there is now a tow bar. The important part is skoda supplied, which mean the kit has all the parts.

I am thinking to sell it to a more knowledgeable enthusiast who may be able to give it a new lease of life... I do not want to scrap it as the engine is still good at the moment and the interior is in great condition for its age. There is a little bit of rust by the wheel arches which is the usual spot for it to start. And, a couple of days ago, an inconsiderate person has scraped me at the back. But, pretty minor stuff. I will take the Fabia logo as a memento though!

Let me know how much you'd want for it, if you do decide to offload it.

Just enabled it on mine using VCDS (Rollenblinken), no idea why it wasn't enabled by default. I can barely notice it though, it seems only the outer lights sweep whilst the lights on the boot lid still flash. Does anyone know what Richtungsblinken actually does?

That is very useful to know. Thank you. And a lesson for me ……. Google AI is only as good as the question you think you are asking. In multiple searches about the threshold calculation on Google and indeed on DVLA sites, I can’t recall anything being mentioned re delivery charges but plenty about MRP being the basis. It’s all a bit hazy. So that’s a problem solved…..don’t need to think about DCC then. (Actually, although most press road test cars are given out with DCC, very few used 4.5s seem to have it).

One thing or issue I came across with any CTEK smart charger is, the instruction manual claims that once you have set the "mode" the first time, and if you are then, some time later using it for the same, then it will have remembered the previous setting. I found out, much to my disappointment, that it can not always be trusted to operate like that. What happened to me was, I had left my own car connected up for a couple of days or more, as I had used it previously many times, I just connected it up and switched it on - waited to see that it was indeed charging as expected, ie the LEDs were lighting up sequentially, and left it to get on with things. A couple or so days later, all looked good, ie it was at the end of the prog'd range of LEDs - but for some reason, I measured the voltage and it was presently at the CTEK "safe low level" - luckily I had not planned to need to charge up another battery just then as my car's battery had essentially been discharged instead of charged, so I cycled through the charging mode options, and that sorted that out. Now I always cycle round all the charge options before walking away, and so far no more charging problems.

5 wires is correct. It's a so-called wideband sensor that allows for finer control of fuelling than standard 4-wire versions If there's lots of oil about and you find it on the pins of the mating loom connector, make sure it's all cleaned off before fitting new sensor, or it may not work at all, or not for long.

ECE 2026.02: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/OI_P169_EU_202610_offline_update.zip

From memory they produce a million a week and are fitted to 1 in 5 cars OE world wide. Alasdair

They have a purpose and that is to enable people to drive and claim they own a New car that they cannot afford to buy. They also enable people who want a new car every few months to do so without losing a fortune in Depreciation so it is cheaper than buying them themselves. So both arguments are valid

Decisions on whether to go for an EV aren't wholly a financial one. For oneself I will be holding on to my Superb until something of sufficient size that can do a 350 mile trip with no more than a 10 minute stop comes along. New Mercedes VLE looks interesting but probably still be slightly short of this and a lot of cash too. I would also like something with a spare wheel too. Having 1 EV and 1 ICE is working very nicely for us by deriving the benefits of both.

For inner track rod joint wear, maybe just rock the steering wheel with just the ignition key in to open up the lock. I've only ever had that issue on a 2002 VW Polo and a 2009 SEAT Ibiza, both of them had electro-hydraulic power steering. The 2002 VW Polo had an advisory for that in an MOT so I followed that up quickly, confirmed that it was the inner ball joint(s) and replaced both arms and TREs. The 2009 SEAT Ibiza, I was working on the front suspension, broken spring, and I again rocked the steering wheel, felt/heard a slight "knock" then got my wife to do the steering wheel rocking while I held the track rods tightly so that I could work out if any knocking was coming from them.

I had the front shocks replaced after the MOT tester reported slight misting on one of them. The old shocks worked fine, the new shocks worked fine. I'm pretty sure I could have just wiped the misting off with a rag before the next MOT, so you might want to consider that approach at least in the short term.

In my fabia (same engine but wagon) I've chased the same issue, the coulprit was the (UK passenger side) upper handlink bolt loose, they're cheap so consider to replace them. I've realize that after replacing everything in the suspension scheme, even a wheel bearing with 2k km, in the end when I was replacing the lower control arm balljoint, moving the strut (like steering) when I've reached the steering full lock the handlink moved making the same knock I was listening while driving. I've also replaced the inner tie rod if you need help feel free to ask.

Virtual Cockpit mib 2 "Low" Navi Backup is Seat Leon 5F Facelift

Feel for you my friend, try not to let it get you down. This is not what you want at this time. I can only hope your solicitor can sort the problem out for you and hopefully recover your cots. Best regards to you. Ray

Remember to use a suitable lubricant on the spring compressor rod threads, not doing that will cause dangerous wear on the rods and "nuts" - I'll admit to "being there done that" on my first "set of 3", they have now been replaced, ready for the next time.

Update After regas everything come back to normal,even more effective 70g of gas remaining on my 2021 model

Also to note, which a few years back I made myself look really stupid is normal spring compressors wont work on SUV springs as they are taller. So the set which worked ok on my Vectra C were way to short for Mokka road springs. So if I had to do my own job on the Yeti I would have to buy a longer set. Given the struggle on the drive anyway with the bar ones and an impact gun I'd prefer to nip them to a garage with a proper compressor and just swap the top mounts or fit them there for minimal cost and massive speed increase and safety of the job.

I had the Primacy 4 on my 70 plate 1.5tsi when I got it. Lasted well and found them to be plenty good enough for my style of driving and the areas I travel (little, if any, snow). However, I switched to Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance which I ran on my previous car (1.4 mk2 superb, 16” wheels). I find them quieter, sidewalls a little softer, and returned slightly better fuel economy. The 205/55-17s on the Octavia every bit as good as I’d hoped. Currently on my second set of the Goodyears, first set did about 38k miles.

A Full DVLA Safety Critical RECALL in the UK, so the Registered Keepers should be notified by VW Group since the DVLA gives their contact details. Those not on a V5 because Fleet Vehicle, Motability ex should still be given the recall but it can slip through, so not just a Dealers Phone Call but a RECALL in Writing.

Hi, I have recently purchased a Skoda Superb Technology Estate for towing. I had an aftermarket towbar fitted as Skoda wouldn't fit one. I am getting the same passenger protection issues, with the same randomness as previous respondents. Has anyone found a solution to the re-coding issue?

Full set of 4 very rare front Mclaren 570S super-lightweight wheels - will fit many VAG models (VW, Skoda, Seat, Audi). Happy to help check if they'll fit your vehicle. These are the forged wheels that were a £10,000 Mclaren extra when new. Incredibly light (about 7.5kg each) and strong. All 4 wheels are 19 inch/8J/ET32.5 Bolt pattern 5x112 Centre bore 57.1mm All come with 235/35/19 Pirelli P-Zero (PZ5) Tyres fitted in 2025 and used for approx 5,000 miles. Ranked first in tyrereviews.com "Best Performance Tyres for 2025" test. Tyres alone cost around £700. Absolutely no known cracks or other structural defects. Happy to provide more photos/closeups on request. Bought these in 2025 (took months to find all 4) and ran them on my Yeti over the Summer (they fit perfectly) - back on winter wheels and tyres now. I've seen a set on a Superb before and they looked brilliant. Could do with a refurb if you want perfection, but they're very presentable as is. Happy to meet part way or deliver depending on location. Happy to answer any questions and provide additional photos on request. £1,950 based in Wiltshire.

Gorgeous but something to be aware of - the tyre size is different to standard Superb: Factory 19x8 is 235/40/19. At 235/35/19, the diameter reduces by 24mm and circumference by 75mm (which is 3.7%). According to Willtheyfit this means 30mph reads 31.1mph on the speedo and 60 reads as 62.2mph on the speedo. There's also a ride height and arch gap loss of 12mm and the wheels will move out from the strut by 11.5mm.

I have turned my dynamic indicators off on a 2023 SIII. It is Rollenblinken not Richtungsblinken you have to inactivate.

fusebox info, not so easy to find so here it is for 2013-14 models type 1 fusebox, (behind the glovebox on RHD cars). Downloadable file PDF attached 1 Not assigned 2 Not assigned 3 Not assigned 4 Not assigned 5 Data bus control unit 6 Alarm sensor 7 Control unit for the air conditioning system, heating, receiver for remote control for the auxiliary heating, selector lever for the automatic gearbox, relay for the rear window heater, replay for the windscreen heater 8 Light switch, rain sensor, diagnostic socket 9 Haldex clutch 10 Touchscreen 11 Heated rear seats 12 Radio 13 Belt tensioner - driver's side 14 Air blower for air conditioning,heating 15 Electric steering lock 16 Signal amplifier for telephone, telephone preinstallation 17 Instrument cluster 18 Not assigned 19 KESSY control unit 20 Steering wheel module 21 Not assigned 22 Luggage compartment door opening 23 Light - right 24 Panorama roof 25 Control unit for central locking front door right, power windows - left 26 Heated front seats 27 Music amplifier 28 Towing device 29 Not assigned 30 Not assigned 31 Headlight - left 32 Parking aid (Park Assist) 33 Airbag 34 TCS button, ESC, tyre control display, pressure sensor for air-conditioning, reverse light switch, dimming rear view mirror, START-STOP button, telephone preinstallation, control for heating of rear seats, sensor for air-conditioning, 230 V power socket, sound actuator 35 Headlight, headlamp beam adjustment, diagnostic connector, camera, radar 36 Headlight right 37 Headlight left 38 Towing device 39 Control unit for central locking front door - right, power windows -front and rear right 40 12-Volt power socket 41 CNG relay 42 Control unit for central locking rear door - left, right, headlight cleaning system, windscreen wipers 43 Visor for gas discharge bulbs, interior lighting 44 Towing device 45 Control unit for control of seat adjustment 46 230-Volt power socket 47 Rear window wiper 48 Not assigned 49 Coil on starter relay, clutch pedal switch 50 Not assigned 51 Belt tensioner - front passenger side 52 Not assigned 53 Relay for rear window heater Octavia 2014-14 FUsebox diagram (type 1).pdf

Mot passed the other week and just been on a nice 400mile round trip all on one tank of fuel, quite decent for a big car.

Finally got the reverse camera wired in the XTRONS one didn’t work for some reason, so brought one that has the number plate light in so a lot neater works perfectly straight away

Started with an audio/headunit upgrade as I wanted CarPlay for Waze and Spotify as I use them pretty much every trip. Went with the latest Xtrons android 13 unit, a little non oem for me but it’s a nice looking unit. Fitted it this afternoon and pre done the wiring for reverse camera add on which will be a great addition. To finish later on. Only fitted the gps aerial with it as I won’t be using the built in 4g capability. Wired in a usb to next to cigarette lighter for charging my phone. Seems to work great out the box the sound quality is much improved, all steering wheel controls/park sensors/ac etc show up as original.

The car had always had a wierd dead spot when initially turning the wheel, that didn’t inspire a lot of confidence. I had a good lever around the other week and found the rear wishbone bush on the drivers side was knackered and could be moved up and down and it’ll stay there, so ordered a pair of wishbones and changed them both. safe to say the drivers one was knackered as it nearly fell out when removed 😲. Hopefully all good for the foreseeable now except maybe a wheel alignment as I had to drop subframe to do them. I shall see how it drives . some pics

Looks great on the original alloys

Throttle body had a good 24hrs to dry so fitted it All back together with the ecs intake pipe and racingline panel filter, I did contemplate getting an induction kit but as it already has such a good oem airbox it seemed a waste, shares the same airbox as tts and rs3.

Notice a while ago the rear xenon level sensor had pulled out the balljoint, had a quick 5 mins this afternoon to play with. The bottom ball joint was very stiff so lubed that up and freed it off and with abit of heat on the ally bar and it pushed back in nicely, I’ll keep an eye on it but it shouldn’t pull out unless I let the suspension get full droop again so should be good.

Cheers Steve i love it to bits it’s a great car, love driving it.

It is a rare beast but a crazy factory engine that Skoda were allowed to fit. It’s also found in Passat cc, r36 and very similar version in the 3.6 vw Touareg although a lot more common in the USA market

Got some top spec tyres for the old girl and on the oem alloys and it looks “superb” just as it should have been. Wouldn’t even know it was a beast unless you notice the big stoppers and quad exhaust 😂 Still got plans, Transfer box oil to change Rear xenon sensor to replace or repair as ball joint has come off. Also waiting for a Black Ecs intake pipe from throttle body to oem airbox and racingline drop in filter. Also have a new gasket and bolts for throttle body as I’m going to paint that black and give it a good clean and reset.

Also got a black washer cap this morning

New haldex pump fitted along with new filter, next day delivery from Haldex repairs very good service. Primed up with vcds and managed to get the full spec 850ml in from empty. Also changed the rear diff oil while I was there and fitted some more racingline plugs for both the Haldex and rear diff with magnetic drains. Glad I can do all this stuff myself god know what it would have cost at a Garage 😀 some pics of newness

Got some stickers on for my Instagram handle, very apt with my probably 20+ Skodas I’ve had over the years

Took a couple of very dirty pics when out and about today.

"hence, this is going to b a long long post - u've been warned!!" Lost for words! Thank you for posting, I would never consider doing any of those things to any car I've ever owned, but I can see it is your passion and total respect! It is interesting to see the dedication some folk have to their cars, and you have a fine looking beasty. Acutaly, I do really like the large Superb lettering on the front lower grill. Should be factory fit.