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I had a sense last night's Sunset might be a decent one 🌞

Just enjoy it. I did check my tyre pressures when I collected it, they were spot on. I bought a superb from the dealer before and the car prep was exemplary. They're a lovely car I love driving it.

Potential to do list: Alu subframe and LCAs Uprated 380mm front brakes and 4pots Either Stage 2 - likely Trackslag downpipe with 200cell cat and additional silencer in pace of GPF. Or This APR Stage 3 standard GPF option Would love to see if Raclingline do an alternative to this but can't see anything yet.

A mod might merge the 2 post / threads asking the same thing.

2nd job was to fit the dog guard and divider. I was marvelling at how big the boot was and then I put the dog in the car.

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Well the car went back. It wasn't the slave cylinder it was the master cylinder .

You did have the wiper arms in the maintenance position so as to avoid hitting the bonnet. Incase you didn’t, if you turn on ignition then turn it off, flick the wiper stalk down the wiper arms raise and park upright on the screen to allow wiper blades to be changed easily.

good idea on being safe and going with a reliable map. the last thing u want is a cooked engine!! i always love a good burble. snap-crackle-pop!! yup, i still have the Superb - will b 9 yrs next month. 😁 i'll b keeping it for more years to come. i'm now running a Stage 3 setup. Garrett Powermax Stg 1 turbo, upgraded injectors and spark plugs. Galano ECU & TCU tunes. when dyno'ed, at the wheels it's making 400 hp and 550 Nm. figures will b higher at the flywheel. mine being FWD, there is only so much power i can put down through the front wheels, but Galano's Boost-by-Gear trickery does a good most of the time.

Excellent work.. I've used similar for the last couple of cars, ground clearance seems to be such a passé idea. Length of decking timber for each ramp, and a suitable reinforcing piece halfway along the length. Could well be the same model of ramps! 👍

Just wanted to share a before and after pics of new bulbs fitted to my Superb. D3S Osram Xenarc Blue Intense to replace old factory bulbs. New bulbs are definitely brighter and have nice modern look with more more crisp light output. Thought it might help someone if they're deciding what bulbs to fit. Second photo are the Osram bulbs

Make sure u get the right LCA cause Golf, A3, S3 etc LCAs r too short for the Superb.

The following rows r switched power, i.e. with ignition. I used #47 for mine ....

Also please check the cable run and don't put it over the side curtain airbag Eg, not like this.

Hi I have a 73 plate VRS estate auto 20k miles. I had the front diff carried out by a vag registered indy at 18k because skoda only change the oil in the diff , they do not clean the filter on the pump. Both were spotless, but done for peace of mind tho i dont really thrash the car. Brake fluid is every 2 years(con in my eyes) , i had it done but when the next one comes round, it will be out of warranty and will goto an indy i know who will measure moisture content.

I had a loose windscreen trim on a Yeti it droned, I drove up to Norfolk and it got hit by a stone then it whistled I took it off and had it replaced under warranty.

Don't connect the Ohme to the API of the car - it's notoriously unreliable even when you do manage to get it connected. Ohme themselves do not recommend it either. Connect the Ohme to your energy provider account and then control the charging from there or the Ohme.

Managed to get Skoda to look at this today, been like nearly 2 months. They agreed that its a wheel bearing on the way out, hopefully extended warranty will cover it. Cars at 32500K miles, would expect a longer life than that. Skoda quote is £385, i asked another place up the road cost of a replacement and they reckon around £200. So i know where I'm going if they refuse... Though there is a good will option having spoken to the warranty people.

About 65 miles pure electric. I just did a 166 mile journey in hybrid mode. Started with full charge, set battery control to preserve 40% and returned 65mpg. 140 mile round trip on Saturday, used 80% of charge and did 85mpg.

I can’t really comment on the clutch in a manual VRS as mine is a 1.5tsi 150; so about 25% less powerful. For what it’s worth, mine is fine at ~74k miles.

LCA for Golf, A3,S3 etc etc r the wrong size for the Superb. As u saw, it's short. Unlike other suspension components - LCAs r not compatible with the mk3 Superb. In the diagrams below, u can see L2 is considerably shorter for the Golf, compared to Superb. The rest of the measurements r similar or the same.

The look on the farmer or other Red diesel cheat that one is seizing their vehicle is priceless.... Done this myself for Bootleggers ie booze and backy smugglers. In reality usually restore they vehicle for a relatively smallish fee but there would be the Level 4 penalty for using Red etc. I do miss some aspects of the job. There is a new Netflix series about customs Officers back in the 90s and the brave work done https://www.netflix.com/gb/title/81708404

I'd probably just go for a thin flat-blade screwdriver used as a scraper on the centre contact. Wouldn't bother with any potions.

No its defo the bcm. From reading other posts symptoms I've been having up to now would explain everything. The dash clocks are sort of dimming/ flickering now. Plus it's only the front indicator that's stuck on. The car had hid kit in it when. I got it so that's what also help convince me it cooked. So id say the damage was already done. But are bcm's a straight forward swap or are they needing coded? I read somewhere it's to do with the immobiliser

Starting to look at my new (to me) 2017 L&K Superb. First job was to investigate the dash cam wiring left by the previous owner - as suspected they had done a **** poor job and put the cable across the curtain airbag. I can't believe anyone thinks that this is a good idea.

The high level brake light comes out with some trim removal tools, just need a wide and thin one to work in and lever it out. It doesn't seem like it'll come out at first but be patient and it will. Be gentle so you don't snap the clips. It's worth ensuring the area is pretty clean first, so you don't scratch the surrounding paint by pressing on any grit. The hose comes in from the left and goes across the light to the nozzle on the right hand side.

From what I understand so far re VCDS, it's working the computer switching, so sounds like your bulb and wiring are ok. Onto the switch, then.. amazing how a little bit of muck can interfere with such things. It seems unlikely to me that the rear fog would have been disabled, unless someone was messing with VCDS and saved the wrong setting - I was looking for information and there certainly is a setting for both/left/right/none. I'll need my laptop history to check, but it was either on here or Ross tech forum. If you already have it (just ordered mine by way of a very late birthday present) you'll be able to check.

haven't contemplated going stronger internals - i think its still within the "max" limits. fingers crossed. front splitter is Rieger. same as the side skirts.

Early pre-FL cars suffered with significant infotainment system issues as well as some other modules (eg SOS unit). S/ware updates and some component replacements have sorted them. If the car is a Škoda approved used vehicle then all software updates should be applied - insist that they are and ask for proof they have been done.

Timpson charge 50 quid for a programmed duplicate key cut I bought a blank on Aliexpress for 22 quid delivered (pre-cut by sending a photo) and swapped over the PCB myself....not easy, needed to use superglue to get it together! Uncut were available for 8 quid with un-programmed PCB - I took it to Timpsons and they wouldn't use it, they only use their own fobs.

I thought farmers used red diesel, which is not road legal; road vehicles have to use white diesel, which is significantly more expensive. Farmers are, however, struggling with higher costs of red diesel, as the current Iran/US/Israel war has dramatically increased their overheads, just as it has for all oil burners.

Very strong torque figure. Is that a pre-GPF?

Just found myself wondering if this is an electrical noise thing, rather than a marginal power/voltage thing. The dirty connection might be causing a kind of arcing situation which may be upsetting some of the circuitry in other things. Pull the fuse (#42) for the lighter socket (to prevent shorting while you work on it), and give it a clean up to improve the reliability of the contact.

Good new pics. I can't see anything suspicious at all there, unfortunately, unless during replacement of those cleaner three fuses something wasn't tightened down well. I'll have a quick look at wiring diagrams to see if the ignition switched feed to the PAS module is shared with anything else, but I think not on either of the 1.2 HTP variants in 2007. No harm in trying that spare strip fuse though, since it's right there looking neglected. 🙂

Woke up early (mainly because I'm getting old) and given the weather wasn't too bad, got cracking on: So removed the R600 pretty much, in order to get the rubber grommets installed: Didn't know the orientation but some thinking and a double check on a Youtube video confirmed it. The video also mentioned that hole in the middle might be related to the OEM's drain tube bit, so decided to also transfer that over. Then it was the battery tray. None of it turned out to be as much of a faff as I thought it would be. So negative then positive terminals off, then wiggled the cover off, and then the 13mm bolt for the strap keeping the battery down. Then pull the battery to the front and hoist it off: Then got a metal trim clip tool to pry the harness off of the tray, two bits along the front: Then it's a 10mm nut at the rear: Then three 10mm bolts, two in the tray, and one off to the front right, which needs a tiny bit more dexterity or longer extensions due to the wiring in the way: Once all out, the old tray can be wiggled and eventually come free: The nut on the rear has a weird rubber bit that sticks out, I guess some random additional vibration dampening, nothing more wiggling wouldn't sort out. Took the opportunity to give the area a wipe and spray of XCP, whilst the area was easy to get to. Then it's the reverse to wiggle the new tray in: Had to use some force and wiggling to get the bolt holes to align up, but got there eventually. The three bolts and nuts were tightened to 9Nm as per the workshop manual. Hoisted the battery in, pushed it back so it slides under a lip on the rear of the battery tray, before putting the bracket and bolt in, to 15Nm: Slide the battery cover over and on, then greased the battery terminals, and tightened to 6Nm: That's that, the whirring and buzzing of the car coming back to life should be audible. So now its the R600 intake again: Like last time, some wiggling to get it into place, but this time, pushing it into the plastic bits on the replacement battery tray. Should go in without much bother and won't be going anywhere. The filter is then on, clamp tightened up, and the new screws that came with the replacement grommets are used to tighten the top cover down: Gave it a spritz of rubber and vinyl care and wiped down. I'll probably do an oil change in the next couple of weeks, but that's not really post worthy. Fingers crossed, the front subframe is the next big job and that'll be nearer the end of summer. Maintenance: £3372.49 Upgrades: £5358.48 Miscellaneous: £827.47

Thank you JR RS, It is completely different car now. Plenty of smiles yesterday 😁😁😁 My tuner said he could go higher on power but i just wanted safe reliable map usable for everyday driving. He has added some nice burble on overrun but compared to JB4 tune this map is nowhere near as loud as before which i quite like. Soft limiter has also been removed. Do you still own your Superb?

To be fair, I also find Waze far more convenient to use on a daily basis. However, the real advantage of the factory navigation system becomes apparent with hybrid and electric vehicles. An interesting observation from my Octavia RS iV : On longer journeys, there is a noticeable difference in fuel consumption when using the built-in navigation instead of Waze. With a route entered into the factory navigation, the car clearly makes use of predictive hybrid management — it already knows: - where descents are coming; - urban areas; - motorway sections; - speed limits; - traffic conditions. As a result, it manages the battery far more intelligently: - where to use electric power; - where to preserve charge; - when to regenerate energy. With Waze, this behaviour is much more limited, and in my experience the fuel consumption is noticeably higher. Honestly, I initially assumed it was mostly marketing jargon, but it turns out the factory navigation genuinely makes a difference in a PHEV. I often have to leave the office in the morning, drive 200–300 km to another city, and return the very same day. At first, I simply entered the destination city as the final stop, and I would almost always arrive with the battery sitting at around 0–3%. Presumably, the system assumes charging will be available at the destination, but in reality I rarely have time to charge during the day. After a bit of experimenting, I discovered a rather interesting trick: instead of setting the city as the final destination, I enter it as an intermediate stop and then set a final destination roughly twice as far away. The system then starts preserving battery charge for the “remaining” route. The result is that I arrive at the intermediate destination with around 20–35% battery remaining. For the return journey, I simply set my office as the destination again. Using this method, I consistently see a real-world fuel saving of around 0.6–0.8 L/100 km compared to driving with Waze alone. And to avoid losing the convenience of Waze, I still keep it running in the background without an active route — that way I continue receiving alerts for traffic, cameras and road incidents.

Some sunshine and a bit of downtime meant I could continue with the chrome delete project. I decided to start wrapping the chrome around the windows. Not too bad of a job and I’m really pleased with the result. Slow and steady is the secret. And gentle applications of heat in key spots. Drivers side all done. But I’m now out of scalpel blades so have ordered some up and will hopefully finish the other side tomorrow. I followed this guide which is good for the basics.

Hi OccyVRS, If you could put up some instructions/photos that would be great! 🙌

So, after work, took the opportunity to do something that's been on the back burner for ages: I think it's the first engine performance mod! A RacingLine R600 air intake! Alongside other bits such as: Turbo inlet pipe, and additional bits like a replacement pipe to go underneath the new air box bit. These bits were bought absolutely ages ago, circa March 2024, and have been lying around since. The R600 main bits were £502.93. The turbo inlet pipe was £74.99 and the coolant pipe was £42.94. So the first step is to start removing the original air filter box and inlet. Two screws, and the front should wiggle away: Then used a flat head screwdriver to loosen and pop out the vacuum line from the air box: Then my Knipex pliers to get the clamp off of the air intake pipe: Once the pipe is loosed from the air intake box, the air filter box itself can be removed, as its some rubber grommets over plastic bits: Popped out with effort, and unfortunately: Looks like I got too hamfisted and ripped out one of the plastic bits with the rubber! Guess a new battery tray required... So those bits out so far: Next is to replace the coolant hose with the replacement designed to go under the R600 box. Lots of Youtube videos show coolant going everywhere, and to be honest, I did the same. Got towels and whatnot underneath and just removed and replaced as quick as possible: Got messy so no pics for the other side. Wiped excess and some parts cleaner before the next bit. So dry fitted the bottom part of the R600 box: Just some wiggling really, but noticed the instructions mention attaching rubber grommets to the box before installing them: Sadly, the packaging didn't have any! Plus with the broken plastic bit in the battery tray, kinda stuck for now. I expect rattling until this is sorted I guess. So carrying on, time to remove the air intake from the filter to the turbo inlet pipe: Standard hose clamp, so a 7mm to loosen, and then wiggling to free that pipe: So next is the turbo inlet pipe. There's a hose that needs to be removed, via squeezing and popping it off. Then also a T30 torx bit keeping the pipe in place. Once removed (carefully lest that torx bolt drops into the abyss!), initial attempts to pull the pipe off wasn't fruitful. Turns out it needs some rotating before it pops out: The new one is the reverse. I put a light smear of engine oil on the o-rings that the new RacingLine pipe had, then pushed in and rotated into place: Then carefully put that torx bolt back into place. I tightened it to 12Nm as its an M6 bolt, not sure what the actual figure needed is. On the home straight now. The R600 kit came with a new pipe, so slotted that in alongside the filter itself: Just some wiggling but it eventually all aligns up. Orientation of the pipes and stuff was probably made simple by just looking for the RacingLine logo and making sure that points upwards! Not forgetting the vacuum line: That's pretty much it, on with the top cover: Tighten up all the hoses and bits and that's that: Noticed also that the R600 box didn't have any screws, so decided for now to just take a few from the OEM air filter box and attached them to the R600 box. Will need to source rubber grommets for the R600 box and screws if available. The spoils: So will need to find somewhere for these OEM bits to go, but that's that! Haven't really driven it in anger yet, I'd imagine there probably won't be any major difference really. Am hoping this becomes useful once a remap is involved! Bit annoying that some of the bits were missing, but some Googling has shown replacements are available, so I'll order those, and probably a battery tray as well, so technically some of this will need disassembling once those have arrived. Maintenance: £3285.99 Upgrades: £5338.13 (+£620.86) Miscellaneous: £827.47

I took delivery of my L&K 193 ps Tdi Estate in February. It replaced a 2023 Kodiaq L&K so it is difficult not to draw comparisons. To answer your four questions… Software has been fine. My iPhone hooks up every time and CarPlay runs perfectly. I tend to use Waze for navigation, but the Skoda version is fine. On one occasion a few weeks ago the infotainment system shut down. Attempted the usual hard reset to no avail. Stopped the car, restarted, and all was well. No issues before or since. The system itself is over complicated, contains dozens of features that will never be used from one year to the next, but that is purely my opinion and more an observation of the world we live in rather than a criticism of the car. Massage seats ? Standard on the L&K , I would never have considered forking out for them as an extra, but three months in , wouldn’t be without them. The Canton audio doesn’t seem as good in the Superb as the Kodiaq, particularly the bottom end, but is still impressive. Bugs ? The remote parking function on the app works perfectly………. Once ! Then I have to re-pair my phone with the car. Did a bit of communicating with Skoda , which was a waste of time. If I was using the function to park in a narrow garage I would pursue the issue, but for me, it’s just a novelty to entertain the grandkids with , so not a problem. ADAS features ? The best thing about them is how easy and quick it is to turn off the ones the EU still allow us to disable. I’ve had a couple of emergency braking events, but both at parking speeds and both involving shrubbery, annoying, but you quickly learn to drive/manoeuvre around it. My first experience of Adaptive Cruise Control , in short, I like it, particularly surprised how usable it is on A roads, not just boring motorway runs. The Superb Estate has won endless towcar awards over the years and having just done a 700 trip around Scotland last month with my caravan, I’m not surprised, it certainly stands up against both the Kodiaq and the E Class estate which preceded it on my drive. Apart from ….. fuel consumption, the Superb regularly bettered 30mpg with a 1600 kilo caravan on it’s back. Excellent, and way beyond the 25 and 21 mpg that its predecessors managed. Solo, I am seeing regular 50+ mpg out of town. My Kodiaq had a real appetite for oil, which was dismissed by Skoda as ‘within tolerance’ the Superb has not used a drop in its first 3000 miles. It doesn’t like potholes or ropey road surfaces on the 19’s I optioned, but the ride is more than acceptable. The foot swipe tailgate - another first for me, has proven really useful, although it has caught me a few times when I’ve been reaching into the boot by trying to close on my head, my fault for having size 11 plates perhaps ? The benefits outweigh the risk for me. The smart dials are clever yet simple and intuitive . I miss the adjustable armrest of the Kodiaq, and after more than 50 years of gearsticks , the column mounted gearshift took some getting used to when doing hurried three point turns. I also miss the auto stop/button from the Kodiaq. Actually, I just miss buttons, and knobs and dials. Sports car ? Nope, but on the occasions ( not many Officer ) when I’ve got a bit giddy and peddled it on a touch, it steers sharply and handles very well for what is a large, family estate. Mrs Busa Boy preferred the elevated seating position of the Kodiaq, but otherwise is more than happy with the comfort of our latest Skoda. Big picture ? So far - so very good. Much trawling of this forum prior to collection, meant I had reservations - up to press, unfounded.

I would begin with the aftermarket immobiliser. Often they are hateful little things and sometimes incorrectly installed. But I see your Zeder is just a mechanical device so cannot be part of your issue except for the buzzer. Try disconnecting that. Then my first step would be the correction of your faulty steering wheel. Your parasitic draw suggestion is the right one. But it seems to be intermittent. As far as aftermarket GPS trackers are concerned, you should be looking for any extra wires or piggyback connectors. Easy to say, hard to do. Favourite locations for these would be the fuse and relay blocks. Good luck.

It’s gone back today - think I’ll be getting the money back on this and walking away

I removed mine. It's not a tricky job, really, as it is only one piece of trim with two clips. The difficult part is due to the clips being industrial grade and requiring some force to remove. I can put some photos and instructions on the removal, if OP wants. Just @ me if so.

Hi everyone, I shall still visit occasionally as I like the site and the chat but the vRS has been traded. I had it from 8 months old until 46 months, not a single fault. I went through tyres, did my own servicing and thoroughly enjoyed driving it. Chipped to 300 it was a beast but you just couldn't get the power down until 3rd or more. I have a set of saloon roof bars I need to sell - used 3 times to transport ladders, and a set of 18" alloys with winter tyres. I'm going to look if I can put them on here, but I'm not a paid up member so I suspect Ebay might be the answer. Thanks to everyone who posts for making the site what it is. Skoda make great cars. I only got one person make a Skoda joke - and would you believe he drives a Dacia Regards Rob

Simple, the fuel tank is a smaller on a PHEV