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VAQ diff was @ 3 years / 30,000 miles and Awsome GTI and others recommended 2 years / 20,000 miles, then Skoda changed to 2 years / 20,000 miles with Mk4,s. As it is many a Dealers Service Desk person with no mechanical knowledge says 'Optional'. This is VAQ,s i am speaking of.

Under the impression? Usually? Or told definitely by multiple dealers and Skoda UK? Can't see anything that says they're lifetime on the internet.

The front diff i believe is the same as the golf gti. Skoda informed me that it requires a service every 2 years (though i had to ask!) However they were not prepared to remove pump and clean strainer, which was pointless in my estimation.

Again, absolutely not, under any circumstances - not even close. The only “lifetime” thing from VW is the DQ200 box, and even that has two oils you want to be changing circa 100k. Again, in the previous generation of cars, the VAQ wants doing at a maximum of 30,000 miles or 3 years. In MQB Evo models, this has been reduced to 20,000 miles or 2 years. It’s a similar interval for Haldex AWD systems. You will want the fluid changed, and the pump screen/gauze cleaned. I do mine every year, and have just done the gearbox at 40k - 80k is no good. Ditto with the gearbox, there is a filter to change too, even if the dealer often doesn’t do it.

To find the OEM part numbers of parts like the shock absorbers, the website "skoda parts com" can be used. This Czech website lets you add one Skoda to your online garage free of charge, and then parts that you search for on this website can be matched against the car's VIN number. Once you have the car's OEM part numbers, it's easier to search for aftermarket parts elsewhere. It's best to search for aftermarket parts using the car's OEM part numbers, rather than simply relying on a description of the car's model, etc.

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Just wanted to share a before and after pics of new bulbs fitted to my Superb. D3S Osram Xenarc Blue Intense to replace old factory bulbs. New bulbs are definitely brighter and have nice modern look with more more crisp light output. Thought it might help someone if they're deciding what bulbs to fit. Second photo are the Osram bulbs

Thanks to those who responded and apologies for not getting back to you earlier - I have been struck down with a mystery ailment for the past week, unable to do anything. Gave it a go today - unfortunately, neither of the spouts from the plastic petrol cans I have available would reach - one was too fat, the other not long enough! I then thought that I would use Alasdair's garden hose idea, but the only hose I have is too small a diameter to operate the flap. So I have now ordered a long funnel from Ebay. Hopefully, once delivered, it will do the job.

What an odd-thing to say in this thread; what makes you come out with that off-topic?

@Evolution13 I just revisited that article and it does seem that their figures don't quite add up, the fires have increased, but not by the figures they printed.

Read it now in other places. 279 compared to 120 in 2022. Elsewhere i read they attend a Lithium Battery fire every 5 hours. But then not 1 BEV Passenger car or any BEV fire every day. So 1 million registered BEV,s in the UK in 2023 & 2 million in 2026. To me that is double in 2 years.

There was a recall action related to Kessy that involved a software update, has your Karoq had that fix? if not your nearest dealer should do be able to do it. I personally have not had any issues with Kessy, but the fix was applied to my KAroq in MArch this year when it was serviced. I have seen posts by other owners regarding the keys being locked in the car and other odd behaviour with the locking.

https://www.manua.ls/skoda/audience/manual?p=5

Thanks very much to you both for the info. I thought I would strip it down as waiting for DPD to deliver new hub assembly inc. nut. I have got it down to the bare hub as far as I can see. Removed caliper and hung on spring out of the way,removed brake sensor,obviously no hub nut, stone shield off. Should the hub assembly pull out now. Again,thanks very much again for your advice. Graham

If there are no signs, there are default limits. Street lights, 30mph (Wales, 20mph). No street lights, National Speed limit, 60mph, 70mph on dual carriagways. Anything else should have repeater signs, but they are sometimes a fair distance apart. All changes of limit should have signs, usually on both sides of the road but not always. It is your responsibility to understand the speed limits, the satnav or the speed recognition system being wrong will be no defence.

Short answer, an easy - Yes. GT85 in my experience is a better product than WD-40 Multi-Use, GT85 is a longer lasting lubricant and protector, better penetrating and releasing fluid ans smells a lot better (lavender IIRC). - https://gt85.co.uk/ More info if you want it. Formerly a British invented and made product now owned by one of the large invasive Americian corporations . . . known as WD-40 Company Ltd., as one of their brands. - https://wd40company.com/our-company/our-brands/ GT85 uses PTFE, WD-40 Multi-Use doesn't. Of course PTFE is best known with teflon from DuPont, another invasive Americian formerly family owned business (not even popular in the state they helped buid for good reasons). Use whicever you please an Americian company gains from it, GT85 is better and can be used for lots of stuff and last longer than WD-40 Multi-Use. Can be used instead of silicone on the door window rubber chanels to clean and lubricate to make it easier on the window winder mechanism and electric motor.

Hi again, back on the right laptop now, so here goes.. it was on here all along! Go to this overall thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299424-octavia-iii-vcds-adaptations-tried-and-tested/#comment-3567267 Then in the first post, which has the menu of adaptations, click on Enabling both rear fog lights and follow what's said there. i read something recently which referred to UK service personnel needing to change the foglight side for the continental roads, so I wonder if perhaps some previous owner of yours either disabled them completely or did it wrongly.

Could be sticking turbo veins or carbon build up in turbo/faulty actuator. This came up from Rosstech Possible CausesWiring and/or Connections from/to Vane Position Sensor (G581) faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) faulty Vane Position Sensor (G581) faulty Binding Issues due to Adjustment/Turbocharger Excessive Carbon build-up Vacuum Leak from/to Turbocharger (Wastegate) Actuator and Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) Possible SolutionsCheck/Replace Fuses Check Wiring and/or Connections from/to Vane Position Sensor (G581) Check Vane Position Sensor (G581) Perform Ohm Test Check Mechanical Turbocharger Operation Rule out binging and excessive Carbon build-up Check Vacuum Supply from/to Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) and Turbocharger (Wastegate) Actuator Check the actuator is moving and is smooth in operation Alasdair

Sadly it still doesn't work even after performing the MIB2.5 upgrade. I gave up trying to get it working. I think it also requires a different air filter type, something carbon activated, which the sensors detect and knows to activate AirCare.

Update: I decided to have another go and this time managed to get the motor out. One of the biggest issues is getting adequate lighting in there so you can see what you're doing. For anyone else attempting this, I have two pieces of advice different to YRSCupraNut's suggestions: Just disconnect all three wiring connectors from the glovebox. It's pretty straightforward and then there's no danger of the light switch assembly falling apart. To get the motor out, cut off the cable tie that VRSCupraNut says you don't need to remove. This allows the motor cradle to drop down and access is then WAY easier. Like lewiswal47, I discovered that the motor casing was not fully closed, allowing the black cog wheel to move out of alignment. After various different attempts to get it all back together and stable, I decided the chances were that it wouldn't stay that way for long, and have ordered a new motor from eBay for £15.

As whitedot has put and if you have enough hands as the light begins to move spray with shaken can of GT85 to lubricate and easy out the clips, also helps with reassembly. -https://gt85.co.uk/

In my silly youth days I fitted tapered rollers on my rally car build, they used a spacer between the inner and outer races - so they weren't adjustable in the usual sense, adjustment required machining of the spacer.

Also, I'd expect that there will be 2 rows of balls in these Gen2 bearing packs.

I don't think that they are the old style taper bearings, if they were, I'd think that you could adjust them as in the past - but there again they might still be a taper type design, if not - I've got a couple of 2011 Audi A4/S4 wheel bearing assemblies waiting to get dumped, I suppose there is one way to answer that question - though I'm sure that these Gen2 bearing packs use balls and not rollers, but not in tapered "arrays", just assembled out of press fitted parts accurately manufactured and that will be why they MUST always be held clamped while supporting a load.

Cut down a scaffold plank, put 2 bolts into the end, fit into drilled holes in the ramp or fit over any of the angle iron on the ramp. Just resting a piece of wood on the ramp, risks it sliding down when reversing off the ramp.

yeah I don't know... there seems to be a "2 Cs" or "combination" rear light and some that don't seem to have an LED in them? I don't know if there was a difference before 2016 either. Skoda doesn't make this easy, I tell you that haha Even looking at the schematics it's hard to tell if you're looking at the right ones or not. On the positive side, I've found the part number for the cover I'm missing on the rear door!

https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753

Alright well I chatted to an independent garage near where I live and, although the guy said he had never been asked this before, he did say that he would be able to fit and recode a new cluster but that questions on compatibility/etc would be outside his current range of knowledge on this specific kind of upgrade. He did however mention several european services that he has access to that know the absolute ins and outs of VAG cars which is why I believe this is the route to go if anyone is wanting to go ahead with this upgrade! Have a look around for any VAG specialist independent garages near you and they could be similar or even more knowledgeable. Personally, I have recently found out about OBD2 displays that can show me the exact parameters I have been looking for and are generally more affordable, so my plans to go further with upgrading my cluster gauges will be put aside until I feel the need later on to upgrade from an OBD2 display (such as wanting to eventually have proper analogue gauges rather than digital ones). I believe I'll still be looking into at least swapping my minidot to maxidot as that is more feasible for now plus what Jack mentioned sounds great: Thanks all :)

Skoda labor here is £156 p/h! See what happens, hopefully they will agree. Find out tomorrow...

I have done mine a few times using a screwdriver or the key, it is fiddly and I found shining a strong light inside meant I could see the bit I needed to push and so made it easier then 'feeling' for it

Absolutely not!!! The VAQ diff needs to be done every 2 years, or 20,000 miles. The older Mk3 cars were 30k or 3 years, however I do mine every year around 10k miles. The fluid needs changing, and the pump screen needs cleaning. When was it actually done @Catzeye? FWIW, the VAQ LSD is a Haldex-derived system - it uses an electronically controlled, hydraulically actuated clutch pack. You don’t want that going wrong! The DSG cars need the service at 40k, however that’s not an issue here. The manual vRS will have an MQ350 in it - absolutely fine, clutch wise. It’s the same box as in the manual Golf Rs and the like - no issues at all, so long as they’ve been driven properly. 40k is the major service, so I’d make sure that’s done before sale - it’ll be air filter, plugs and the usual.

Finish new Generation steering wheel Made the converter own

Managed to get Skoda to look at this today, been like nearly 2 months. They agreed that its a wheel bearing on the way out, hopefully extended warranty will cover it. Cars at 32500K miles, would expect a longer life than that. Skoda quote is £385, i asked another place up the road cost of a replacement and they reckon around £200. So i know where I'm going if they refuse... Though there is a good will option having spoken to the warranty people.

A mod might merge the 2 post / threads asking the same thing.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Far cheaper and simpler to just keep the keys in a shielding pouch when they're not in use, I'd guess that the steering lock would be the major problem.

The high level brake light comes out with some trim removal tools, just need a wide and thin one to work in and lever it out. It doesn't seem like it'll come out at first but be patient and it will. Be gentle so you don't snap the clips. It's worth ensuring the area is pretty clean first, so you don't scratch the surrounding paint by pressing on any grit. The hose comes in from the left and goes across the light to the nozzle on the right hand side.

It might depend on the fob and/or the system he's using to prgram the fob but if he's been sucessful with other VW/VWŠkoda 2016 cars then more likily the fobs or he's not updated to the latest updates on his machine's system. But then I've seen on here even experts having issues and needing to send the cusomer to the Dealership. IIRC the Dealership (non-KESSY) remote folding-key fob for my wife's 2015 Fabia was £144 and £41 programming about a couple of years back. Personally as it was for my wife and her car I didn't trust or fart about with variable quailty keysmiths but I'm sure many are very good

I certainly hope so 🤞 Incidentally I was surprised to see how small my XJ looks next to it's EV successor⚡

Hello, welcome to the forum. ^^^ the above, plus Is the infotainment system original - or aftermarket?

My honest advice would be to leave the car as it is, and wait until you have something more capable. Have you done a track day?

Merc 190SL with a missing bootlock at the supermarket today.

The VRS in Glencoe on Wednesday. Got away with not having the winter wheels/tyres on 😵‍💫

Thanks agaiN CianKT. The Stabilus struts you recommended arrived today, fitted no problems, took about 10 minutes. Hatch now opens really easily. 👏👏

Thanks all, I’ve ordered a pair of Stalibus struts.🙂

Stabilus is OEM seller for 80% der OEM

Doesn't work so well in portrait but in wide-screen it'd be too far away to see it 🤣 A little unnerving being so close as they're spinning I thought.

Progress has been slow, owing mainly to my energy levels being so low after my medical problems. My doctor's told me these will eventually return, but I'm not very good at being a patient, and so want to be up and running now, but this can't be at the moment. I've removed the manifold, carburettor and associated linkages, and regularly turn the engine over, to prevent seizure, but beyond that, I haven't managed much. I WILL get on to it when then weather warms up. I should love to see your combi in the flesh!

@EnterName Best you study a bit more or just read the Owners Manual on GPF's because they are not the same as a DPF.

Hi, 1 - Yes, removed both outer fittings so I could use the LH working fitting on the RH side. Obviously won't fit in the hole, but same connector. When did this this inner (boot) light also came back on. 2 - Outer, I didn't spot water ingress until I had it out of car and moved it around. 3 - eBay second hand £80, a bit annoying, but worked perfectly and is now sorted. Let me know if I can help further. Cheers.

I fitted an induction kit RAM air with the upgraded turbo elbow. Adds about 5bhp, but sounds sick!