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Popped into my local Skoda dealer service dept, to see if their laser alignment equipment had been repaired. Saw there were some nice Skoda pins on the desk, asked if could have one and was offered the drinks bottle as well. Haven’t tried it in the cup holder yet though.

First of all, let me start by saying this was neither quick nor easy. My factory Canton subwoofer finally gave up, and my first thought was: “How hard can it be to replace a speaker?” Turns out… very hard. The OEM subwoofer is a 165 mm dual voice coil speaker with 2 x 8Ω impedance, which immediately limits your options. There simply aren’t many replacements available. After quite a bit of searching, I found what seemed to be the best match: Audio System CO 06 D8 EVO Loudspeaker DatabaseAudio System CO 06 D8 EVO - 6.5″ Subwoofer 2x8ΩFull technical parameters and comparison: Audio System CO06D8EVO 6.5″ Subwoofer 2x8Ω · Xmax 7mm · Resonance 59Hz · Power handling 240W · Sensitivity 80dBUnfortunately, Audio System told me they didn’t have any in stock. After emailing them, I found out the only remaining stock was in Poland. Luckily, I have a friend there who ordered it for me and then shipped it to Romania. If you don’t have Polish friends… well… you might be SOL. Eventually the speaker made its journey from Germany to Poland, Poland to Poland, then Poland to Romania. Then came the next challenge… Removing the enclosure Getting the subwoofer enclosure out of the boot on the sedan is an absolute pain. I practically had to dismantle half the rear of the car, including removing the rear seats. I don’t know if it’s easier on the Estate, but on the sedan it definitely wasn’t a fun job. The mounting problem Once the new speaker arrived, I discovered what many of you probably already know. The mounting holes don’t line up. While searching for solutions, I found this Reddit post from someone who had already done the swap: https://www.reddit.com/r/skoda/comments/1r0vhlb/superb_mk3_canton_subwoofer_update/ His solution works, but it’s a bit of a “make it fit” approach. Personally, I’m the kind of person who likes things to look professional (read it as I’m very particular about these things) whenever possible. So naturally I thought… “I’ll just design and 3D print an adapter.” I’d never opened Fusion 360 before. How hard could it be? …yeah. Thankfully ChatGPT walked me through the whole process step by step, and after a lot of trial and error I ended up with an adapter that fits both the enclosure and the new speaker. I’ll happily share the STL/Fusion files if anyone wants them. If you’re better at CAD than I am, feel free to improve the design. https://www.printables.com/model/1776566-skoda-superb-mk3-subwoofer-flange Gaskets and damping I also bought some EVA foam sheets to use as gaskets between the adapter and the enclosure. Since I had plenty left over, I lined parts of the inside of the enclosure as well. I can’t say exactly how much difference it makes, but it certainly can’t hurt. One final tweak The only thing I couldn’t confidently model before printing was the exact position of the new speaker mounting holes. So I simply drilled those by hand once I had the printed adapter fitted in place. Final thoughts Was it worth it? I’d say yes. It took far longer than I expected, but I’m pretty happy with how it turned out, and it looks much cleaner than simply forcing the speaker to fit. I’ll be installing it today or tomorrow, and I’ll update this thread once I’ve had a chance to listen to it. I’ll also attach some photos of the process and the finished adapter in case it helps someone else down the road. Later edit,... seriously? 25.76 kB for file attachments?!?

Not a car change as such, just a Superb doing what it's great at, 4 people, a boot full of luggage and two bikes going on holiday in complete comfort and still managed mid 40's mpg.

Hi Breezy_Pete, Thanks for you thoughts - appreciated. One of my first thoughts were; that this might be the case. Whilst up on the ramps I checked the heatshields, nothing found. It's a much more of a metal to metal bouncing sound.

I went ahead and checked the wiring to the ecu plugs and I never even noticed the very difficult to read cavity numbers engraved on the side of the plugs. After checking the wiring and pin numbers against the plug side pinout sheet I had been using it turns out I had wired them differently to what they should be with the majority of the connections being made on the black half of the plug instead of the white side. After correcting that cruise control is now working lovely along with the correct bits being flipped when checking the counter using block 066 in vcds. Thanks so much guys

Thanks for that Steve, it's still not working properly but I can live with it. Nigel

Sounds like a loose top mount/suspension nut. Had similar on my octavia when I changed springs and didnt manage to tighten top securing nut enough. or the top mount has failed which may explain the tyre wear. Doesnt sound like drop links or heat shield for exhaust or bottom ball joint although have had bad drop links which seem ok until removed. Reckon the tension from anti roll bar stops you seeing any play. As your replaced check the antiroll bar bushes bolts and also the bushes encased in alloy for the front swing arms etc.. havent come loose. Alasdair

I agree ask for the three year full service to be included. Mileage again I agree at around 9k a year its probably had decent long trips which is much better in my opinion than a low mileage car thats been tootling along in a city and never getting a decent run plus a car that's not stopping and starting all the time its kinder to clutch/gearbox and starter etc. I would change to annual servicing as personally I think the long life oil change is too long. You could see if they would add in some extra warranty as its skoda approved for peace of mind. Alasdair

Well, I'm now at the stage of final right to reject. They are collecting the Octavia on Sunday to do an assessment. I'll be back with the results. Wish me luck 🤞

I completely understand how frustrating it is when the infotainment behaves likes this. These issues are well known and understood, so the Skoda dealers do know how to fix this. It's frustrating that it keeps coming up on the forum that dealers want £100+/hour to "investigate" something they already know about. It might be worth raising this with the Skoda Executive Office. I recently had good success with them in getting a load of software updates issues paid for. My argument was that the issues were well known, and had been for several years. And they agreed to help. It did take a while to get to that point, but may be worth persisting.

uploading of single logo for particular stations is gone option in Mib3 and newer head units ☹️ try update whole database -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520105-radio-stations-logos-database-updates/

This is my first post, so HELLO (and please excuse me for posting my greeting in the wrong place)! My name is Neil and I live in Nottingham. I just bought 367 yesterday - SD07LWS from Copart Bristol. As you might be able to guess due to where I got it from, it has been written-off as a Cat N. This must have been a terrible shame for someone because otherwise the bodywork is exceptional, it hasn't been modified and it's still got only 79K on the clock. Unfortunately now it has a dented rear nearside quarter about the size of a plate which luckily didn't crack the rear light. I'll be trying to get that sorted soon. I have lots of questions, but can post those elsewhere... All the best, Neil.

Very tricky to see the terminal numbers on the engine ecu plugs, wouldn’t be surprised if one wasn’t correct

Loaded up once again. This time with about 150kg of flat pack units to fit out the new utility room. Including some panels at 2.6m long! I did put the roof bars on just in case but managed to squeeze them inside by reclining the passenger seat right back and feeding them through onto the dash.

lamp has little paddle. Maybe broken and lost. bulb is always connected to +12v Other end is controled by mosfet PWM to the ground.

3% 7 mile, you must have nerves of steel 🤣

With mine there is a "bing" and a message stating that i need to start looking for a charger, that quickly goes away leaving an icon with an orange battery symbol, this happens at 20%

Change both, xenon bulbs loose brightness with time. You will have a difference in intensity. Further more, the seconde one may fail shortly after the first. It's a 10 minutes job so go for both

Hi Dave. There is an amber battery warning light that comes on once the charge level is down to 20% but it isn’t for the 12 volt battery. It’s just to keep your attention drawn to the low state of charge. I’ve attached a photo with that lamp illuminated. The 12v warning light is a red battery symbol just like the battery/alternator warning on a traditional petrol or diesel car. If you’re sure it was the 12v lamp I’d get it checked as that would indicate a fault.

I got my done my a local body shop, cost a couple of years ago was £85 (2hrs labour) plus the grill i got from Ebay, the bumper had to come off and he used a heat gun to get the grill out.

before the post i did the following -tested the fuses, none blown all have continuity, all have clean pins -did the flaps adaptation, just like in the video sent by @ords -ac installation was filled like 3-4 months ago After the post (2 days ago): -tested the car with VCDS (in the middle of the day, when ventilation wasn t working): 393476 - Air Blower B10BE 13 [009] - Open Circuit [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 4 Reset counter: 146 Mileage: 262266 km Date: 2026.07.02 Time: 17:35:27 Voltage terminal 30: 13.5 V Outside temperature: 36.0 °C Inside temperature: 38.6 °C Blower voltage: specified value: 10.1 V Blower voltage: actual value: 25.4 V 393473 - Air Blower B10BE 96 [009] - Component Internal Failure [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 147 Mileage: 262266 km Date: 2026.07.02 Time: 17:35:27 Voltage terminal 30: 13.5 V Outside temperature: 36.0 °C Inside temperature: 38.6 °C Blower voltage: specified value: 10.1 V Blower voltage: actual value: 25.4 V After this i took out the blower out of the car, and put it on a car battery at 12V, it spinned, and fast. I measured with a multimeter from car to blower: 12V on the plug i measured then the resistor/command module (5Q0 907 521 E) that is mounted on the blower. I measured the resistance of the 4 pin plug that is on the command resistor, and from the compinations of measuring from 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 2-3, 2-4, 3-4, i ve got resistances of 30-50x megaohms, one in the order of 10x kiloohms and OL. now i think that this command resistor has some internal damage and i will try to replace it, hope it will work. Again if anyone has any ideea of that, or if what i did seems ok or not, please leave an answear. Again thanks in advance, have a nice day!

You almost certainly have a broken wire in the steering column unit. Disassemble and inspect the wiring.

SEAT in general are winding down to a 2030 cease in production entirely in favour of Cupra so the Ateca ending production isn’t a big shock.

A successor may be coming not very soon, or perhaps not at all: https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/karoq/368846/exclusive-new-generation-skoda-karoq-cards-hybrid-power And another report: AutocarA new Skoda Karoq may be on the way... | AutocarSUV was launched in 2017 and has racked up more than 100,000 UK sales since

Annoying. Feel free to use my case as an example

On the western side of Spencer's Gulf, south of Port Augusta, South Australia.