Leaderboard

Hello all Newbie here who this morning picked up our brand new family-bus (we have 4 kids) Kodiaq vRS. I ticked the Pan' Roof and full 'Suite' leather options. It was bought to replace our Discovery 5 D300, which we've owned from new (2021), but as expected was turning into the typical JLR money-pit. Looking forward to getting some miles on 'Keith' (that's what the kids have named it!) and joining in here....

Sounds like a loose top mount/suspension nut. Had similar on my octavia when I changed springs and didnt manage to tighten top securing nut enough. or the top mount has failed which may explain the tyre wear. Doesnt sound like drop links or heat shield for exhaust or bottom ball joint although have had bad drop links which seem ok until removed. Reckon the tension from anti roll bar stops you seeing any play. As your replaced check the antiroll bar bushes bolts and also the bushes encased in alloy for the front swing arms etc.. havent come loose. Alasdair

The Veritate wheels on my Superb have limited access between the spokes, so cleaning the barrel and behind the spokes is a chore but possible with the right selection of brushes and woolies. BUT ... the numbnuts that designed the wheel added a 'gutter' around the barrel just behind the spokes. It collects a pool of rainwater when parked and is a magnet for brake dust and tar. Getting into the gutter to clean it is almost impossible - I can't even reach it all with my fingertips and a wheel mitt. Lots of chemicals and a pressure rinse helps, but sometimes you also need to agitate the dirt to get it off. The usual angled wheel brushes and floss/weasels won't get into the gutter, so I'm faced with making some sort of DIY tool to get into the gaps or removing the wheel completely to get at it from behind. Does anyone have any tips or tool recommendations for how to tackle this?

Possibly fewer electrocutions with 110V - but from memory, many more electrical fires due to significantly higher current in circuits.

Hi All, just joined, bought my 2013 Yeti 2.0 140 DSG 4 x 4 a couple of weeks ago, very impressed! I'm 64, do most of my own maintenance, from just outside Cambridge UK

No, it's just a plastic dust cap I think. I guess there's a screw-out bit behind it that lets the dryer cartridge be inserted during build of the condenser.

The ability to slide the rear seats forward in a Karoq with Varioflex rear seats is limited by the middle seat not sliding hence the extra boot space gained is limited to a third of the boot's width at each side & no extra in the middle. This means the extra length can only be used for an object less than 1 seat width. Also if the rear centre seat, or the 1 behind the driver, is tipped forward it is necessary for me to move the driver's seat nearer to the dash. Rear passengers like the variable recline though.

Indeed I am. Did you get it sorted?

Welcome to the Briskoda family. Nice car, I hope it serves you and your family well.

Have a look at the spring on right hand side. It may have broken at top or bottom. Sometimes its difficult to see if its a small section thats gone. In my case was the rear and the spring wasnt seating properly and chattering when I hit bumps in road including the broken end which was bouncing around in lower socket that spring sits in. As said check the top strut nut as well. Mine was just slightly loose and it made a high pitch chattering sound. Couldnt see any play due to spring tension. If the spring is broken it may be puting front wheel out of alignment, Alasdair

Hi everyone. New member here based in the Glasgow area. New to Skoda’s but have had plenty of older VWs and Audis over the years so somewhat familiar with the platforms. I’ll be looking to pick up a Skoda in the near future (check the wanted section!) and start tinkering. Cheers

It's easy to spend quite a bit of effort and cash replacing suspension bits only to eventually notice that an exhaust heatshield has corroded off one or two of its fixings somewhere near the front.

Personally I don't think the mileage is anything to be worried about, neither is the long life servicing, but I would look into the potential clutch issues on some 1.0 TSI models with the manual gearbox https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/493951-help-69-plate-10-tsi-se-manual-clutch-gone-after-2721-miles/ If it's Skoda approved used you get 12 months warranty so nothing to worry about there.

Well, I'm now at the stage of final right to reject. They are collecting the Octavia on Sunday to do an assessment. I'll be back with the results. Wish me luck 🤞

Just got my dongle delivered from Russell Rolling Road! 😁 Can't wait to get all my tuning issues resolved.

The quality of the Trackslag is 2nd to none and I highly recommend it.

I've changed my subframe bolts a few times as if you removed it otherwise it will creak aswell however Ive got a Aluminium one from Golf R.

This 'gutter' is also present on my 18" Dofida wheels. I had not realised that this feature was also on other Skoda range wheels. It drives me absolutely mad! As Coral-C states it just collects brake dust and road grime in it, then this debris floats to the bottom of the wheel when it rains to form a very visible black stain which then bakes on next time you drive the car in dry conditions. NOT VERY SKODA SMART.

The same stupid 'gutter' arrangement exists on my Belatrix wheels too. Following with interest!

Looking at the VCDS map, you have a few people local to you. It looks like @SJFISHER67 is from the Winchester area. Gaz Google My MapsVCDS owners map – Google My MapsMap of Briskoda VCDS owners locations. Compiled by Gizmo (RED - MODERATOR / ADMIN) (PINK = HONORARY) (PURPLE = SPONSOR) (GREEN = FREEDOM) (BLUE = MEMBER) To see which type of interface each owner has

Its having the equipment to change even one digit is the issue. Physically replacing the battery isn't an issue, it's the code.

If you're fitting the same type and capacity of battery all you have to do is change one digit of the serial number.

I have just seen a YOU TUBE video on battery coding. The video even recommends coding for the same type of battery.

Well done Cedwing. My wife sometimes thinks I'm an idiot. Rarely, but on this occasion, hands up. Thing is, I had sunglasses, no issue. Last week I got new shades, updated prescription and yes, turns out first lot weren't polarised, but these are. Actually a dramatic effect! Thank you Cedwing.

Fixed by dealer under warranty. Faulty fuel tank pressure sensor.

Latest Updated Speedcams - April, 2026. Here goes - Happy Easter lol. Once again here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( April, 2026 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams , Average Speedcams ( which also include European tunnel speedcams ) and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - April, 2026.zip * Once again credit goes to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for sharing his files which I borrowed and then converted in order to make this compilation.

Afternoon all... Just had an issue with my (now getting on a bit) Superb after topping up the washer, the bonnet wouldn't latch shut. It just bounced back up when trying to close resulting in panic/stress as its needed for work.. I pulled the release lever and tried again and it closed this time thankfully but seeking thoughts on how to proceed without getting stuck with an open bonnet. I didn't want to re-open until prepared to deal with it to avoid being stuck... The release lever has been stiff for as long as I can remember despite regular dosing the latch mechanism with WD40/lithium grease spray, just assumed it was a Superb trait... The catch lever under the bonnet is very free moving as I know that can seize up. I guess a couple of questions - Can you get to the cable end to lubricate directly, couldn't really see ? Thinking I will direct copious amounts of spray into the cable end. Is there a joint in the cable or mechanism under the slam panel which needs lubricating ? Any recommended spray lubricant ? (I have been using white lithium with no issues until now...) Is it better to replace the cable entirely ? (anyone have a part number or diagram of the installation ?) UPDATE 28/02/26 So I have basically answered my questions with a bit of investigation and I'd recommend any Mk2 owner doing this as a bit of preventative maintenance. Cleaned up the bonnet latch with a load of brake cleaner which got rid of a lot of old white lithium grease that had congeled along with a bit or road dirt etc. Did the same for the release mechanism lever which was already free but did no harm. I then had a poke around and found the cable joint mechanism under the slam panel just above the nearside headlamp. This is held by a couple of clips which easily pulls off to give better access to the arrangement. I know that this housing is where the cable joint can get detached but mine remained intact. The housing clearly can come apart which means spray oil can penetrate so I doused about half a can of 'Rocket' spray into each end of the cable, and also all over. A rag placed beneath caught all the drips. I worked the release lever and immediately noticed a massive difference, it has freed up hugely and is now springing back as you'd expect. So this joint housing seems to be the cause of a lot of the sticking issues so a liberal douse of spray every so often should keep it free and might stop your bonnet cable becoming detached. Many thanks Dave

Yes all three are on the same fuse. See below diagrams. Take them with a grain of salt, these diagrams are from 2017 and VAG likes to change things all the time, especially which fuse does what. Screenshot 1: Fuse 40 definition states sockets U1, U5, U9. and U18. Screenshot 2: You can see the fuse "SC40" connects at "B150" to three points on another diagram, points 436, 443 and 447. The numbers in the boxes refer to the numbers at the bottom of the page; you find the page with the numbers and that's where the lines reappear. Screenshot 3: The three red/green lines reappear, going to U1, U5 and U18. U18 is the one in the luggage compartment. Screenshot 3 also doesn't explain that: U and U1 are the same thing, but it depends on the smokers pack. If smokers pack installed, then you get a lighter socket with the heated element. Otherwise it's just a power socket. U5 and U9, same as U and U1 above. U18 - no option to light a ciggy, just a power socket. If you have the U13 230V socket in the middle row seats, then that's a different fuse and the other pages of the diagram imply that both the 12V and 230V outlet there are on fuse 46 but the front and luggage ones remain on fuse 40. Here is the fuse box. See fuse 40 (highlighted yellow) has room to move down (red marking) which is different to all the other fuses around it. To repeat, not all cars had the metal contacts fitted in the lower position. Mine did not. You can check yours with a flashlight.

Thank you! Do you know what this microswitch is... switching as I haven't noticed any issues with changing gears, or switching between D/S, N, R, P? The steering wheel gear selector flaps are working too... Very weird.

More countries and US states joining in on plug in solar revolution. California to join Texas abd several other states, and Germany of course, to provide free supply of electricity to consumers. As mentioned on can easily bypass the plug in route by getting a shoe box sized battery, Lithium Iron Phophate preferable, to taje the solar input and then use it to supply the power hungry fridge freezer. One can do this as well as join the Time Of Use tariffs which can mean access to negative and very cheap electricity, like we are getting tomorrow for 5.5 hours, and we gave half such sessions each week for the last weeks to charge the EVs, doing the washing, heat the water for baths etc. With Greg Jackson being part of government, for 3 years, and his no 1 UK company partnership with CATL, falling battery prices it is looking good for cheaper electricity to those willing to adopt these systems.