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LEDs typically draw lower current than filament lamps, plus I'm pretty sure the trunk lighting circuit isn't monitored on the canbus lamp failure system. LEDs will typically be at least 3 to 5 times brighter for the same wattage filament lamp. I have occasionally seen posts where some very cheap LEDs have caused issues with flickering or not switching off correctly, but if sourced from a reputable supplier, this shouldn't be a problem.

Rivnut. I would’ve used one when my mk1 Octavia shed a hatch strut, except when it failed it stretched/ bent the metal around the mounting point. I just measured a stick to use as a prop until I traded in the car 🤣

Ideally as soon as you can, use something like Car Scanner ELM OBD2 to register the new battery, and change the type back to EFB if needed. Be surprised if it's actually been registered as AGM in the first place, they probably just slapped it in - which may well be why it's died.

She Who Must Be Obeyed.

PS. So maybe this week more drilling and extraction of Oil & Gas in the north sea will be approved. So more Oil & Gas to be exported. No refinery in Scotland anymore so this oil and gas will make no difference. If there is gas going to come ashore they best get building storage facilities.

Very important that the Battery Farms get build so that the renewable generated electricity can be stored for when needed rather than turbines being closed down. 2 new offshore windfarms in the Moray Firth hjave just been granted licences. The North & South Caledonia windfarms. Estimated to be able to power 2 million households. So all the households there are in Scotland. Amazing how many windfarms there are in Scotland all able to power every household in Scotland. Substations need built but are not getting planning. Pylons are required bit planning is being blocked. New Hydro Schemes were being blocked and now developers are saying not economically viable because of The UK Government and how they support the energy required. They would rather it is bought in from overseas, and not locally overseas, but from the EU or European Countries other than Scotland.

Tried to take some pictures for you...

The LED strip came with short wire attached so I fitted the male side of a 12v battery connector to them and then fitted the female side to a length of bellwire that then feeds across to the side panel. This means that when the load cover is removed I don't have bare 12v terminals loose in the boot that could cause a short circuit. The bellwire was then fed behind the side panel to the existing light. The connector had a clip on it to stop it coming undone but I cut that off so it just pulls apart if needed, or if I forget to undo it when I take the load cover out. I just put a bit of velcro on it to hold it in place and stop it rattling. The bellwire is just connected to the original light just by baring some of the wire and wrapping it round the connecting tabs of the light fitting such that they make a good contact but are separated from each other and don't short each other out. It's been in for about 18 months or so with no issues.

If most of your journeys are short, the smaller battery is ideal. Buy the car that works for 99% of your journeys and don't pay extra for a bigger battery that you 'need' once a year. Certainly not. Charging is quite straightforward but I would recommend having a practice run when charging and time is not critical just to confirm to yourself it is a simple process. It is not entirely necessary. The in-car satnav will find chargers for you and charging can be taken care of with a credit card. You could also get an RFID card such as Skoda Powerpass or Electroverse to initiate charging without a smartphone. However, a smartphone will make things easier and allow you to access the Skoda app to connect to the car. One thing to consider given your low mileage. It may not be the cheapest option to go on to a 'Cheap EV tariff' for charging at home. The peak rate and standing charges tend to be higher than a straight forward domestic tariff so unless a large portion of your home use can be shifted to the cheap times, your overall energy bill may go up.

Made the same mistake myself years ago and it was on the master which was impossible to get to. Found a youtube vid on how to do it. Reckon as said its a generic kit. Must be some designed out there that uses an o ring. In your defence and mine it does look like there should be an o ring fitted as there is a groove. Glad it worked Alasdair

Rivnut or Threadsert should sort it for you.

Yes, it’s the drive mode selected. On my manual ‘box 2020 1.5tsi SEL FE, I get these modes… Normal Eco Sport Individual Selectable from this screen… As yours is a hybrid I assume you’ll have a few different drives modes as well as DSG modes; symbols may vary too depending on s/ware revision levels. I usually select Individual, which I have configured to put the climate control in eco mode but leave the rest at default settings.

@lol-lol Yes, I think one of the issues with Tesla Vision is sunlight; fog is going to be another.

We have just come back from nearly 4 weeks on the continent. Some may remember the SOS system issue that required 8 visits to dealers to fix. I'm happy to report that we went the entire holiday with no more issues. On our first day (Monday) travelling down the French Autoroute with the temperature at ~35 degrees, I noticed a small crack in the windscreen, just behind the parking ticket clip. It was ~ 2 inches (5cm) long. Over the next few days it grew longer until Friday, when it reached ~22 inches (55cm) This was a real dilemma for me as I didn't want to drive with a screen like that, but I didn't know how to get it repaired in Europe, particularly as I had no idea whether my car insurance would pay out, like it does in the UK. Luckily we got back with no further issue. I have a green Umwelt sticker for Germany, which I will lose when the screen is replaced, but I stayed somewhere in Germany near a TUV centre, and it only took 5 minutes and 5 € to get a replacement. I have also has to order a new French Crit'air sticker, which was just over 5 € including postage. So, on arrival home, it was time to sort out a replacement screen. On Thursday evening I went on the website of the replacement company. The first part was easy, putting in the car details and my personal details, but it was really difficult to complete the form as it kept asking me to agree to new wiper and a screen coating, both of which I had to turn down at least twice. The earliest appointment I could get was 16.00 on Tuesday, rather awkward but doable. No fit at home option. So was that it? No. On Friday morning I got a call from the company and then again got badgered by their agent, who very pushily tried to upsell me new wipers and screen coating, totalling ~ £90 to £100, and miraculously they could now take the car at 9.00 on the same day. So I couldn't book it for 9.00 online because I suspect the phone call is a further opportunity to upsell. I bet I get it again when I take the car in. Just one last thing for continental travellers. Apparently, next spring, Belgium will be introducing a road tax rather like ours, except it will also apply to foreign visitors. It seems there will be a daily rate, payable on the internet, but I have no futher deatils of costs and penalties.

Do the rear springs have any colour paint marks or part numbers. Check that they are the same. They should be replaced in pairs but its not unknown for a broken spring to be replaced that doesnt quite match the other. Alasdair

Thank you for your reply, it’s worth a try if not I’ll get it booked in at the garage.

Maybe better with another original. Have heard that aftermarket radios can interfere with OBD port communication if scanning. Someone on here may know aftermarket units that dont cause problems. Alasdair

Strange! Mine does.

Hi Jiggz, welcome to the forum. Bit of a coincidence, but there has been a recent post with a similar problem - using a blind M8 Rivnut has been suggested.

Thanks all. Just to update. I was right the leak was a bit right of centre, which is where the secondary/electric pump is on the VRS. Replaced and all fine now.

I don't own a car. Not yet. Don't have a driving license yet. I am 17 years of age. And new here. My father is tasking me with finding some firmware for his car navigation system and I found this forum because gemini AI told me I can find the firmware here.

Check the battery voltage as well. If its low/failed cell it can cause slow crank and problems with electronic systems etc. Should be 12.6-12.8v with engine off. Check when cranking as well to see what the voltage drops to. Alasdair

As above, if you have an ELM327 obd connector you can probably check and change it with Car Scanner app on your phone. If not ask the garage that does the MOT to do it for you as they will probably have the right kit to be able to.

Thanks but it's a Halfords AGM027 so guessing someone upgraded it at some point. Now I don't know what to fit

Are you sure the original battery is AGM... They are usually quite expensive and not normally used a original equipment. I'd therefore guess the existing one, if the car has stop-start, will be EFB already.

Cant find the link I watched re replacing seal but the top hat seal has to be pushed hard onto plastic till it clicks in place. You do not use the o ring. Alasdair

I've had the mount replaced for free by Nextbase and I am going to talk to the installer shortly.

I replaced both springs on my MK2 and tightened bolts. I made the mistake of tightening swing arm bolts on one wheel on the ground and the other still jacked up. When the car was lowered the one tightened jacked up was around 20mm higher. Think the bolts have to be tightened with wheels on the ground to make car sit level. Might be worth loosening and retightening. Alasdair

Zero relation between the headlight level sensor and ride height. DCC only adjusts the shocks - nothing to do with the springs or ride height. Most likely a knackered spring, although potentially a collapsed top mount and suspension issues (LCA and strut come to mind).

+1 Kopacek.

Swapped the original light fitting. Try searching for SEAT match.

As far as I am aware, DCC only has an effect on the shocks and not the suspension height.

Our Kodiaq was similarly afflicted. So I bought a length of self adhesive 12v led strip and stuck it to the underside of the fixed bit of the pull out load cover, fitted a small push battery connector to it (the sort you get for toy cars) then rigged up a wire through a small hole where the load cover fits into the side panel to connect to the existing boot light. It work perfectly with no fault codes and is much much brighter. It's easy to do, removable and the led strips can be stuck pretty much anywhere... I just chose where I did as it seemed the most sensible but they could easily go on the side panels.

https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-mega-power-led-cargo-trunk-light-ki-r-2

I haven't had this issue. The key should go to sleep once it stops sensing movement, in an attempt to defeat relay theft. Do you put the key anywhere where it can sense movement, near a washing machine or something that vibrates? Have you tried putting your key in a faraday box to block it connecting to the signal?

no real updates as had family things taking up life and lost motivation i guess, but have fitted the black silicone coolant hoses 😁 and have a new genuine landing panel to drop at the body shop for colour matched paint , new radiator , condenser and receiver dryer as well as new rad mounts so a/c can work again and she can keep cool 😎

Cheers bro 🙏🏻 yes definitely knows his stuff and very very informative he will tell you what he did and what and how he wants you to do next thing. Real credit to car scene. Also got my pops and burbles detuned slightly so they are bit more civilised 😁 VID-20260715-WA0007.mp4

First mistake was going to Halfords. Take it somewhere else and get the new battery checked, and then coded in correctly. My parents had similar symptoms in their A3 - random no locking, horn, etc. It turned out that Halfords had somehow managed to incorrectly code the battery in.

On most modern software there are assistive systems that can be disabled on a per journey basis. Most of these cannot be shut off permanently. If emergency braking activated when you feel it should not have than get the car checked by a competent garage.

I agree top up to max and monitor on way to garage. Its a lot easier to find a leak when the cars on a lift. I would just use water to top up and once leak has been found get the garage to do a coolant change as it may have been topped up with water for a while if the leak is old and antifreeze will have become diluted. Remember to take extra water with you and watch the temp. If it gets really hot let it cool down before topping up. Not a good idea to add cold water to a very hot engine. Alasdair

Right, it sounds like you may have at least two, possibly three separate faults. I'd suggest that you need to find a good independent who will at least consider suggestions. 1 - probable faulty park/neutral switch: This will prevent starter motor from cranking the engine if the switch is falsely sensing the transmission isn't in park or neutral. 2 - Possible faulty crank or camshaft position sensor: This fault will allow the engine to crank normally - but typically results in failure of engine to start - or only after an extended cranking period. This fault is often reported be worse when the engine is up to temperature (start is often normal when engine is cold) 3 - Have all cable connections to starter motor checked, especially the chassis ground cable.

Wow....I changed first battery last month, after I got a message, and this after 10-11 months of continuous use...I thought, that remote is greedy...I have an octavia 2002, with original batteries in remotes, still in use....but as I see in your case, things can go worse....I have no idea, but it seems your key is constantly in use..

BMW Z-1. Totally standard and full BMW service history. Delivered to the bloke's parents in 1990. He said they also have another Z-1 but in yellow!

Dealer did not find a fault but recoded and now working better.

Well I download and unzipped in 7zip and didnt get any reports of SLI.NDS error, ditto the built in unzipping program of Windows 11. Suspect its the original download that got corrupted so every time you unzip it, it trips at the same spot.

I've decided to invest in a proper wall charger. The three pin was ok with the Octavia iv I px'd for the Superb (had a timer and a slow charging battery small enough to charge on off peak). Anyway, what a car! A bigger step up from the Octavia than I expected.

I was caught out by this too. My rescuer on this forum also added photos of the right screen:https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/536899-heated-rear-seats-control/

Don't know if you still have the issue (I had), today I changed the privacy settings in the car back to not allow anything, and changed it back to allow every option. after that everything worked again...

If it makes you feel any better, my car comes equipped with the remote park assist and I've only used it once. It constantly fails and backs out of the maneuvers. Fine for a party trick but it's not that useful.

The ultimate hoon machine.